Road Bike

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Of all the sports discussed here, nothing is more impressive than the potential for the road cyclist. If there is but one sport to which the Dolomites are best suited, road riding is it. The Dolomites are, to put it simply, sublime.

Where to even begin to describe the magic that they provide for anyone who enjoys getting on a bike and riding in the mountains? From any number of villages within the range, one steps outside their door and has endless possibilities; passes, valley’s, narrow cobbled village roads, alpine terrain, and of course the Italian  cycling culture in which to feel a part of.

In the spring and summer months (May-September) the Dolomites are the home of literally thousands of cyclists each day. They come to ride the passes, enjoy the roadside restaurants and of course to take part in any number of Granfondos, including the most famous of all, the Maratona dles Dolomites with its 9000 starter field.

The Experience

Cycling is as much a part of Italy as pizza and pasta. The sport is the third most popular in the country behind only Soccer and Formula 1. For me, I am continually impressed by the people I see taking part. On the road will be a tan, chiseled cyclist in perfect team kit onboard a magnificent carbon fiber bike. But wait, that is no pro, he is 65 years old and setting the pace up the pass. One of many. Italian cyclists set a high standard for longetivity and youthful energy – truthfully, the very reason we moved here. To be a part of this culture for many years to come.

To spend time on these Dolomite roads is the same as powder skiing each day for a skier. It does not get any better.

While the primary roads of the Dolomites offer the famous passes which have been scene to epic battles from the Giro d’Italia, the secondary roads can provide the cyclist willing to explore, and ride some steep roads with little to no traffic, a solitary experience. It is all here.

Beginning in late June, just before the Maratona, the cyclists begin to arrive. So large are the numbers of cyclists and the tourism potential that the region actually re-paves many of the passes prior to the cycling season, all to make a good impression and to make the roads a bit safer.

The cycling hub is likely the Corvara area of the Val Badia. Several small villages tend to provide the most to offer the visiting cyclist; Arabba, La Villa, San Cassiano, Livinallongo, Pedraces, Colfosco and of course Corvara itself. Check into a hotel or apartment in any of these villages and you will have a lifetime of riding. I did, and never left.

The area is not good for a rest day, it seems the roads either go up, or down. Rest days are for the Val Pusteria or out to Trento and the flat valley. The Dolomites are for climbing.

From Corvara is the Sellaronda, a 60km (1800 meters of climbing) loop that goes up and down 4 passes; the Campolongo, the Pordoi, the Sella and the Gardena. It is the most classic of all “short tours” in the region. It is so good that on the first weekend of July all the roads are closed in celebration of cycling, the loop is free of cars.

Also from the Val Badia are the big passes, those that often play crucial roles in the Giro d’Italia each May; the Giau, the Falzarego, the Duran, the Staulanza and the mighty Fedaia which climbs a sustained 16% grade for several kilometers on its east side.

The passes have their corners numbered serving as both a countdown and reminder of just how many more you must endure. The number of hairpins on several passes reach into the 30′s. Luckily there is much to take your mind off the severity of the climbs for you will find yourself amongst a heavenly landscape. Lush fields of wildflowers line the roads, cows graze while ringing their bells, majestic Dolomite towers rise all around you from the colorful green hills below and other cyclists provide company with Ciao’s, Gruss Gott’s, and even the occasional Bon Jour. Keep your eyes open and you will see numerous pros training as well, especially in the weeks prior to the Giro.

With an endless supply of food throughout the day, it is also possible to avoid any supplements if one so chooses. For here one can stop and enjoy a baked good, panino, coffee, piece of pizza, etc… Water is found most everywhere as their are natural fountains lining the roadsides as well as in every town. Get savvy to their placement and you will never lack for water.

The Passo delle Erbe

For me, one pass stands out as my clear favorite, it is the Passo delle Erbe. It is not one of the core group in the heart of the range, for it is off on its own, just northwest of the primary area around Corvara. Yet it is done from the same starting point and makes for the perfect 110km day.

Beginning in Corvara, the Gardena Pass must be climbed, a long but not steep (9% max) climb directly beneath the Sella Group. Once on top a 45 minute (you read that correctly) descent awaits to the west and the town of Chiusa. Once at the bottom you will turn almost immediately right into another valley that rises into the Villnösstal. Here begins the climb up a narrow canyon alongside a small river to the village of San Pietro, a hard left takes you through the village, always following signs for the Passo delle Erbe. Once above the short, steep section leaving San Pietro, the reason this is a favorite begins to become apparent. To the south, is the Geislergruppe, a jagged, towering ridge line that you cannot keep your eyes off of. Luckily you will have quite some time to stare.

The road on the Erbe is impossibly narrow, more like a bike path than a road for cars, which you will rarely see. You climb through a dense, lush forest, then a bit of rolling terrain before the sky finally opens as you approach treeline. The Pass is appropriately named for its vast, herb and flower covered hillsides. While the pass is long, it is not steep, and your arrival may feel premature because it provides a feeling of wanting to ride upward through the terrain forever. Immediately right as you arrive is the Peitlerkofel, a towering buttress of Dolomite, ahead is the Santa Croce group above Badia, and off to the left, in the distance, the Plan de Corones.

The east side of the pass is much steeper than the west, and the descent is fast and technical to the Val Badia far below.

The Maratona dles Dolomites

To stand straddling your bike at 6:30 in the morning, getting ready for the ride of a lifetime, is a wonderful feeling. To do it in the Italian Dolomites, with nearly 10,000 other cyclists is the Maratona dles Dolomites. It creates its own energy that will stay with you forever.

Each June, the Alta Badia plays host to the Maratona. From the little village of La Villa it begins; 135 kilometers and roughly 4600 meters of climbing before the finish line in Corvara.

When the gun sounds, the energy is released, 10,000 cyclists rush towards the Campolongo Pass, the day’s first sun and the beginning of a lot of personal adventures.

On each end of the Maratona field are very different attitudes. There are those in the front playing team tactics, very serious, attacks, breaks, and daring descents. Yet there is a decidedly different group in the back; lunch stops, prosecco breaks, perhaps a nap. In between is everything else and a lot of fun.

The race is televised live on Italian TV, helicopters hover above, fans line the roads and scream encouragement. On the passes are parties, locals in traditional dress with platters of prosciutto and cheeses to tempt the hungry riders. The roads have full closure. The entire region, everyone and everything is there to celebrate the sport of cycling. And not just the day of the Maratona but for the entire week leading up to it, one big cycling party. If you are a cyclist, this is the planet’s finest event.

The 2009 Maratona dles Dolomites Photo Gallery by PatitucciPhoto

Maratona dles Dolomites Video: http://it.youtube.com/MaratonaDolomites

Be warned, if the Maratona is something you want to do, get involved early for sign up as nearly 20,000 would be competitors sign up for the 8,000 slots handed out. Holimites offers a “Special” Travel Package that assures an entry along with all the other stuff you will need anyway – like a hotel…

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When building your itinerary and booking services, such as hotels, guides or huts – please utilize our DolomiteSport Network which offers a handpicked selection of what we know to be some of the finest services, accomodations and resources in the Italian Dolomites.

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