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Captain Dan Goes Mountain Biking

Aug 27th, 2010
by dolomitesport.
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In 25 years of playing in the mountains, daily no less, I have never witnessed nature’s power as I did this afternoon.

Rising over 1200 meters directly behind our house in the Italian Dolomites are the northern slopes of the Plan de Corones, or Kronplatz. The giant hillside is completely covered in thick, lush forest with a massive network of dirt roads and singletrack mountain biking trails. Literally 2 minutes from our door, it is our playground.

This afternoon, much later than I would like with “extreme thunderstorms” forecast, I headed out for a training session. Shorts, short sleeve jersey, vest for the downhill – it’s summer, right?

As I neared the 3/4 mark to the top I began getting glimpses west, black is an understatement for what was approaching. I continued up having no doubt it would rain but with little concern as it is not so unusual to get a good soaking in the European Alps. A group of downhillers came bombing towards me. Through each of their face guards I could see little beady eyes looking at me with sick pleasure. Turns out they had seen something from up high that I missed being down in the trees. The fact that they were on the dirt road, and not the downhill course should have been a good clue for me to turn tail and get the hell down.

Minutes after they passed the first drops began to pelt me. But this wasn’t rain, it was like waterballoons coming down. And then, like the sun had been extinguished, the day went black as night. Here, those that know me will surely question my exaggeration level – the “Dan Factor” as Janine likes to call it. I swear it to be a zero. Had I have had a headlamp I would have surely considered the On switch. Creepy is a good term to describe how it felt as I now crept upward.

The disturbing silence was shattered by what sounded like a military aircraft coming in low, as it came closer the sound grew, I thought for sure something was about to crash into the hillside, and then I was driven sideways, nearly off the road, my left foot unclipping just in time to save me from plummeting down the steep forested slope. Wind so violent it was more like a wave of water than air, a nearby tree exploded and crashed to the ground, I barely stayed upright. Determined, I carried on, intrigued by what was happening; the blackness, the wind, and now the thundering explosions of what was right on top of me. Basically, I thought, “Cool”.  I heard an SMS come in and quickly pulled the phone from my jersey pocket, it was Janine, “Are you okay? Get home fast”.

Suddenly my little game changed when one word entered my head. “Hail.”

Immediately I stopped, pulled out the vest, and by the time it was zipped closed all hell broke loose, hail, like a sand blaster. Summer no more. Back on board the bike I was ripping down best I could given that I couldn’t see and my bare skin felt like it was being torn off . But soon the hail stopped and my tempo settled into something tolerable, I actually began enjoying my 700 meter descent in what was quickly becoming a torrent of brown, rushing water. I imagined myself Captain Dan from Forrest Gump, on my bike, hanging on, loving that feeling of being really so small in something so big and powerful.

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Mountain Biking Dolomites Sellaronda

Aug 21st, 2010
by dolomitesport.
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What is the Dolomite’s Sella?

An incredible amount of activity literally surrounds what is arguably the Dolomite’s true heart, the Sella Group. Rising like an island in a calm sea, the Sella is an enormous, 9 kilometer wide freestanding massif. With its tiered layers, towers, couloirs and mostly flat top, it has been nicknamed the “Wedding Cake”. Dropping away beneath it are four deep valleys; Val Gardena, Val Badia, Val di Fassa, and Valle di Livinalongo. The highpoint, Piz Boe is 3152 meters yet directly beneath it is the village of Arabba at 1605. Simple math reveals some serious relief. No matter how many times I stare at the Sella new features appear; towers, jagged ridges and straightline couloirs.

Sellaronda Mountain Bike Tour, descending Pordoi to Canazei

In the winter it is famous for its steep couloirs (Skiing in the Kingdom of Couloirs) while in the summer, it is a buzz with activity around it, for a network of roads and trails circumnavigate the massif, each plummeting into the three valley’s before rising again to passes before the next drop. Do one of its many loops and you’ll have an endless display of sublime beauty. And it is these loops around the Sella that attracts diverse athletes from around the world.

The Sellaronda is a venue. I have raced around it a number of times in the Maratona dles Dolomites, which circles it as the road race’s first segment. Also, the Sellaronda Ski Marathon does even more vertical on skis as it dramatically drops all the way into each surrounding valley. Coming in 2011 is a brutally difficult trail running race similar in torturous design as the famous ski race. Finally, there is the Sellaronda Hero Race , one of Europe’s most difficult races, which gives cross country mountain bikers an opportunity to suffer around the bulk of the massif. But for the visiting mountain biker, there is now opportunity to do the Sellaronda in its entirety using lifts for the climbs so as to spend a very full day of downhilling. Easy? Read on.

Alta Badia Sellaronda Start

In my opinion, the perfect start (if you do the more classic clockwise tour) for the Sellaronda is the Alta Badia and the village of La Villa. This is not so much for how it starts but for how it finishes (the last stretch into Corvara is bliss at day’s end, read on). That said, being on top of the Piz La Ila after first tram is a great place to spend your morning with the sunrise illuminating the towering Sassongher in stunning light. From Piz La Ila, rolling hills lead to Piz Sorega before some perfect single track twists through lush forests down to the Campolongo Pass, and here begins the long drop to Arabba.

Sellaronda Mountain Bike Tour, entering the forest above Corvara

Arabba to Passo Pordoi

From Arabba the Porta Vescovo tram is ridden 800 meters up. Exit tram and spend some time staring at the Dolomite’s biggest mountain, the Marmolada sits unobstructed directly south of the tram station. One of the Dolomites few remaining glaciers still coats the north side of the mountain. Keep moving, you have a long way to go…

A loose, dirt road leads you down to the beginning of one of the longest sections of singletrack on the whole tour. Once on the singletrack, you’ll roll west until it intersects the Passo Pordoi road, here squishy mountain bikes with low saddles join their road bike brethren for about 1km until the top of the Pordoi.

Andreas, inside the tram, impressing the tourists, irritating the tram operator

Passo Pordoi to Canazei

Time for a valley switch and the descent to Canazei, this is possibly the best piece of singletrack on the tour. Stop midway for a lunch break at Hotel Lupo Bianco, a four star hotel with a unique menu loaded with specialty pastas and polenta. But don’t linger too long, again, you have a long way to go… Once in Canazei, head through the village to the bike path for the neighboring village of Campitello and the Col Rodella tram.

DolomiteBiking Guides Klaus and Andreas Irsara

Sella Pass to Selva Gardena

Exit the Col Rodella tram and drop towards the Sella Pass. Once roadside a singletrack trail leads through the forests where you can jump off trail and surf the perfectly smooth grassy slopes of the ski runs – descend 1000 meters to Selva Gardena (Wolkenstein).

Sellaronda Mountain Bike Tour, beginning the final descent. Passo Gardena to Alta Badia

Val Gardena to Corvara, Alta Badia

In Selva, the Dantercepies gondola is taken to the Passo Gardena before the final 600 meter drop back to the Val Badia. Again, the descent starts on flowing singletrack which ends at a small trail side waterfall on the north side of the valley. Here begins one of the most pleasant gently rolling trails in all of the Dolomites, a perfect leg stretching, brake cooling end to an unforgettable day. Bike paths lead all the way back to the starting point in La Villa.

Sellaronda Facts

Clockwise

Time : 5 hours – All day

Length : 58km

Total Vertical : 3400 meters

Total Climbing : 500 meters

Counterclockwise

Time : 6 hours – All day

Length : 53km

Total Vertical : 3000 meters

Total Climbing : 1150 meters

Languages : Three… Ladin, German, and yes, Italian, will be spoken throughout the tour.

Difficulty : Intermediate to Advanced – with good brakes and basic mountain biking skills, you’ll get around. Comfort on steep, loose terrain is a must.

Of course it is possible to do the mountain bike loop under your own power, without lifts. How long does this take? Klaus Fontana, winner of the 2010 race which is even longer with 4200 meters of climbing, did it in less than 5 hours. Do not consider this a benchmark.

Signs exist, but not for all trails

Now that you are sold, here is the important stuff. As of this writing, it is required to take a guide on this tour. Don’t think about trying it without or you won’t be getting on any lifts with your bike. This is to insure you stay on the mountain bike trails and not venture onto hiking paths. I can guarantee that without a guide you will not find the best singletrack anyway, so.. a guide it is. Plus, you’ll have a million questions about everything you are looking at. It is paradise, maximize what you do.

Note : Check your brakes, a guide friend said that modern disc brakes, brand new, are good for about four Sellarondas – this pretty much says it all. Corvara, Canazei and Selva all have great bike shops in case you need service.

Inside the Campitello tram station, about to begin another long "climb"

Dolomite Mountain Bike Guiding Services

Our closest friends are the guys at DolomiteBiking.com – this is a local group of certified mountain bike guides all from the region and based in the Alta Badia. They are responsible for us having the great experience seen in these photos.

The final descent to Corvara in Alta Badia, like I said... Bliss

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A Dolomites Hiking Masterpiece

Jul 20th, 2010
by dolomitesport.
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The entire ridge traverse, from the right to left and back to the where the photo was made before the last descent to the Val San Nicolo (below) >click to enlarge

Val di Fassa’s Val San Nicolo Ridge Traverse

After twelve years together, living, working and playing in the mountains – Janine and I may well have just discovered our perfect day. One of the very best of about 4000 days together in the mountains. Janine found it, right there on the Val di Fassa map; a feature, some trails, a little creative route planning and then an announcement that we’ll be doing a “big ridge traverse” this week. Ok.

First up, I need to make a disclaimer if this is to be used as a route planner. This trail is NOT for everyone, it is far from easy, includes exposed climbing sections, requires comfort in high places, and a bit of route finding. Nevertheless, it is all there and certainly not an epic unless you choose to make it so. We saw just two other people on the trail, I asked them in Italian if they too thought it was amazing, the answer, “Ja, aber nicht so einfach”. Okay, they’re weren’t Italians and they’re weren’t enjoying it quite as much as us, but you might. If the following sounds good to you, and you are in the Dolomites, do not miss this experience.

Highlights: Via Ferrate, exposure, no crowds, abundant World War 1 history, tunneling, caving, scrambling, countless summits, two huts, and quite possibly the best views of any location in the Dolomites (if only the afternoon had been clear!!).

Janine in the early morning headed to the Zeni Bivouac and the start of the Via Ferrata F. Gadotti

Via Ferrata F. Gadotti and the Alta Via B. Federspiel

What Janine discovered on the map was the Alta Via B. Federspiel starting from the Val San Nicolo above the Val di Fassa just outside Pozza di Fassa. The feature is a massive circular ridge system with a trail tracing its crest, alternating between Via Ferrata and “advanced” hiking route. But she added to the trail, starting on the Cima Dodici (Sas da le Duodesh) on the Via Ferrata F. Gadotti above the Zeni Bivouac. From the summit, trails and more ferrate link to the Forcella la Costela and the start of the Alta Via B. Federspiel. From here, one thing is immediately obvious. It is going to be a long day. And this was just the first part, for this ridge system terminates at the Rifugio Passo delle Selle. But the ridge continues, becoming the Sentiero Atti Bepi Zac which mostly follows a WWI trench and tunnel system all the way to the Costabela.

This section is certainly the most raw for WWI history, for much still remains from the war 95 years ago. It is not prettied or tidied up, it is a mess of barbed wire, artillery placements, tunnels, living quarters and stone barriers. We found bomb shrapnel, pieces of old leather boots, and oddly, very oddly – many bone fragments of unknown origin. We have never seen bone fragments elsewhere, why here? While traversing this section the pace will certainly slow to have a morbid look at human history. The Austrian and Italians had it out on this high and lonely ridge. The Austrian tunnels have gun turrets facing south, the Italian versions with windows pointing north. Trenches are still in place right on the crest and dotted with caves built as sleeping quarters – it is this very system of trenches and exposed ledges that the trails follows.

Dan; How big is the Zeni Bivouac? This small...

From the Costabela the trail plummets from the crest down deep into the cirque at the end of the Val San Nicolo. Here we found another trail, not on the map, that connected us to the parallel ridge starting at the Pas de San Nicolo where a well placed hut awaits. This is the beginning of an all new ridge and the second, and return, section of the traverse. From the Rifugio Pas de San Nicolo the remainder of trail is much more well traveled and less rugged. While the entire first section is straight up & straight down in rocky terrain, this section is singletrack through grasses and wildflowers traversing up and down until it ends at the ski station Col de Valvagin. From here, we took the service road 800 meters down to the valley below where we had left the car at the Malga al Crocifisso.

We did the entire trail in one day, beginning at 6am, we returned to the car at 8pm. Stops were made for photos/views and a sizeable lunch of pasta (of course). The trail is slow going, especially due to the Via Ferrate and rocky terrain in the first part. We thought to run much of it but the running really only comes towards the end.

As described, the tour could be done in many ways, even using the huts for overnighting. Or, the first big peak climb and Via Ferrata could be skipped. All names are from the Tabacco Map 06 Val di Fassa. It is very difficult to say how long this trail is with how intricate the route is, we estimate 26-28 kilometers and about 3800 total meters of climbing. An interesting note is that the tour begins on Dolomite rock, turns to a long section of Gneiss (complete with a completely different feel), and then turns back to Dolomite.

What allows this trail to have such magnificent views is its position. The ridgeline is part of what separates the southern Dolomites from the northern. Therefore, when on top of the crest nearly everything may be seen. I have never seen one area where so much is visible; from the Sas dla Crusc, Tofana, Sassolungo, Catinaccio, Odla to the Pale di San Martino, Civetta and even the Agner. It is the perfect location from which to see the Dolomites.

Janine at the start of the Via Ferrata F. Gadotti

From the summit of the Cima Dodici looking into the Val di Fassa, the Cattinacio and Pozza

The second peak of the day, the Sas Aut

Via Ferrata F. Gadotti with the approach trail far below

Janine descending in caves from the summit of the Sas Aut

Long, steep descent through a chasm from the Sas Aut

Finally, the ridge traverse begins here, at the Forcella de la Costela. Far in the distance, at the top left is the Rifugio Passo delle Selle and the end of this section, just the beginning

Endless up and down on the ridgeline in this terrain getting to the first hut

Before the Rifugio delle Selle is the beginning of the War area with ledges that served as the frontlines

The majority of the day is spent right on the crest

War ledges

Dan having a pasta at Rifugio Passo delle Selle

Immediately after leaving the hut is a long climb and the real War trail through tunnels and trenches for about 3 kilometers

Barbed wire and religion

The trail leads through tunnels that were the network for moving around without being exposed to gunfire

Windows can be seen in the cliff faces that were gun placements

Finally some terrain for running, the original goal for the day, comes after the Rifugio Passo San Nicolo

Janine on the last section of ridge before the big descent back to the Val San Nicolo. The first ridge's earlier sections can be seen in the background

The final section on perfect running terrain. The ski station, the end of the ridge, can be seen in the distance

Dan, end of the day, end of the ridge - the final meters to the last summit

As we descended, our first climb came into view, the beginning of our giant circle. The bright orange Zeni Bivouac can be seen in the green below the walls

In the valley, the final obstacle to the car

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Mountain Biking in the Dolomites Val Gardena

Jul 18th, 2010
by dolomitesport.
7 comments

Mountain biking beneath the Geisler Group

Dolomites Mountain Biking

Italy’s Val Gardena, or Gröden in German, is one of Italy’s most famous ski destinations. But it is certainly not just for skiing, and it is only Italy by location – for this is a special valley where the look & feel is much closer to its more Germanic northern neighbors. Here, the Dolomiti are the Dolomiten – you will see and hear more German and the local Ladin than Italian, yet the food and overall flavor is distinctly that of Italy – it is the best of all worlds. Amongst it all, the Val Gardena is rapidly becoming a premier destination for mountain biking.

Seems the valley’s Tourism Offices, recognizing the value that mountain bike tourism brings, have started making the region very friendly to knobby tire athletes. An abundance of trails, mountain huts, ski lifts for those not wanting to ride so much uphill, and some of the most stunning scenery in the entire Dolomites makes the area truly worthy of a visit. And so we have started to explore and can now confirm, superb.

Where to Go in Val Gardena?

Between the villages of Selva and Ortisei (Wolkenstein and St. Ulrich) are countless hotels, and this is a great place to basecamp. Lifts run from this end of the valley up to Seceda, Alpe di Siusi and Col Reiser – all key access points for trails. For a quiet, car free location, look into staying up on the Alpe di Siusi (Seiseralm) itself.

When to Go to Val Gardena?

June – early October, although June might still be wet and snowy depending on the spring, and August could be so full of tourists you will be better off leaving your bike in the valley and walking with everyone else. August, in my opinion, is not the month to see the Dolomites if a peaceful mountain experience is desired.

Biking and Hiking in the Val Gardena

Time to be honest… the mountain biking in the Dolomites is great, but with the massive trail system, a plethora of options, and loads of dirt roads thrown into the mix, the first time visitor is going to be overwhelmed and likely thinking, “Hey, I saw all these great photos of beautiful trails, but where, and which, are they?” We have had the good fortune of being shown by locals the best trails to ride, and so for the visitor, I would suggest doing the same – getting a mountain bike guide. It will save time and insure the best experience, not to mention prevent excessive bike carrying and pushing.

Alpe di Siusi and sunset on the Sassolungo

This is not the website for detailed route descriptions and GPS coordinates. Our goal is to inspire a visit to the area and provide some services information for the next step. But, as mentioned above, key riding areas for the Val Gardena are:

Alpe di Siusi (Seiseralm) including the traverse around to the Sella Pass via the Citta di Sassi (dirt roads). The entire high plateau provides moderate and brilliant mountain biking tours with incredible views to the Sassolungo (Langkofel). Monte Pana is a good starting point.

Col Raiser – the entire upper plateau around the Rifugio Firenze (Regensburger Hut). Either ride up or take the gondola from near Selva (Wolkenstein).

Seceda – From Ortisei (St. Ulrich), take the Seceda gondola only to the mid-station, exit and ride dirt roads and trails to the Rifugio Rasciesa (Raschotz Hut) then the breathtaking path to Rifugio Brogles (Brogles Hut).

Mountain biking above Col Reiser in the Val Gardena

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WARNING: This is a very popular hiking destination as well and the trails need to be shared. There is a proposal to restrict mountain bikes to dirt roads only within the Dolomites – we don’t want to lose our trail access. Ride with respect.

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Hiking & Peak Bagging in the Dolomites Val Gardena

Mountain biking can be limiting in what it allows you access to in the very rugged, complicated Dolomites. One of our favorite things to do to take advantage of all the un-rideable terrain is to pedal in to a hut, lock the bikes, swap cycling for running shoes, and head up the big peaks. A few key ones to put on the list are the Montijela (via Selva and Rifugio Firenze), the Sasso Piatto (via Alpe di Siusi) for its position & endless views and of course the gem, the Sas Rigais’ Via Ferrata – a big, committing undertaking (Guide recommended- see below).

Recommended Val Gardena / Gröden Services

Mountain Biking Guides : DolomiteBiking.com – our closest friends, the very one’s who showed us around. Locals know best.

Tour Operator Service : Holimites.com - specializing in active, mountain sport visits to the Dolomites

Mountain Guides : Alberto De Giuli |  Marcello Cominetti |  Francesco Tremolada take your pick, all superb

Tourism Office : Val Gardena Tourism

Bike Shop for Info & Rentals : Dolomiti Adventures

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Val Gardena Cycling Events

The Sellaronda Hero is probably the highlight for mountain biking. An absolutely brutal course of 82km with 4200 meters of climbing – touted as Europe’s hardest mountain bike race.

The Sellaronda Bike Day: while not just for mountain bikers, but all cyclists, this is a special day each summer where the Dolomites roads are closed to cars throughout the famous Sellaronda loop. Bikes only = paradise. 16,000 cyclists make their way to the region for this day.

The Brogles Hut

Mountain biking above Col Reiser in the Val Gardena

Have you been to Val Gardena? We would love to hear your experience – please use the Comments section on this post to share your thoughts – thanks.

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Rifugio Lagazuoi and the WWI Gallery

Jul 17th, 2010
by dolomitesport.
3 comments

Walking through WWI trenches, Monte Lagazuoi

The bottom entrance to the Lagazuoi Gallery

A Historical Walk to Dinner through the Lagazuoi Tunnels

Part of the culture of life in the Italian Dolomites is to share a dinner with friends in one of the many mountain huts (rifugi) – for us, this is habit. Sometimes we hike, other times it’s a ski approach, maybe a trail run, or even a mountain bike ride. But last night was something unique, we arrived to the Rifugio Lagazuoi via a pitch black tunnel from WWI that ascends nearly 400 meters to the top of Monte Lagazuoi.

Our friend Carolyn is doing the Alta Via 1 and called to invite us for dinner at the hut. It was the perfect summer evening to head up and see her as well as the hut’s owner and friend Guido Pompanin. Dinner was set for 6:45 – we arrived at the trailhead at 6 and immediately took note of the trail sign indicating a two hour walk to the hut. “Merda, RUN!”

Inside the Gallery

A couple hundred meters above the parking area the trail splits; options include a long hike around the peak to it’s backside and up to the summit hut, or a tunnel going straight up within the mountain itself. The tunnel is a kind of museum as it is a perfectly preserved piece of war history. Built over a period of many months by the Italian army during WWI, the tunnel was meant to access the top and ultimately blow up the strategically located Austrian artillery placement. The monumental effort of boring through a mountain simply to then blow it up paid off and the Austrians lost there stronghold. Today, where men once lived in misery and fear, iPhone wielding tourists now strut about bound for the hut and a pasta, I was no exception.

Janine, aka Little Red Riding Hood, exiting the Gallery on top

We opted for the tunnel as it is faster and more direct and we had done it many times before – but never in a rush to make dinner. Up we went, each step inside the inky darkness gaining us a half meter. The lights from our headlamps passed over the many interior features; the soldiers living quarters, a water cistern, and many portholes in the tower’s side for dumping the stone and debris from the tunnel. Finally, we arrived at the top, exited the tunnel and like the Italian army in WWI, found not a soul about. But while the Austrian army made a rapid departure after catching wind of the impending arrival of the Italians and a potential large explosion, today’s summit inhabitants were gathered inside the Rifugio enjoying an aperitif.

After the Gallery there is an easy walk to the summit

Our own dash for the hut ended with the front door opening and Carolyn stepping out to greet us – promptly at 6:45. From the dank tunnel we suddenly found ourselves in a room full of cheer. Guido handed us towels for washing up, drinks arrived, and many friends gathered about. A fun feast was next, storytelling and a beautiful sunset making silhouettes of distant Dolomite towers. The evening became late, people wandered off to bed, we said good night, put our headlamps on and headed back to the tunnels.

The final steps to the top and the Lagazuoi Hut

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Travel in Italy’s Dolomites

A visit to the Heart of the Dolomites should certainly include a day or two exploring the Lagazuoi and Cinque Torri area. This is some of the most rugged and scenic terrain in all of the Dolomites and is accessed from any of the surrounding valley’s; Cortina d’Ampezzo (Passo Falzarego from the east), Alta Badia (Passo Valparola) or Arraba (Passo Falzarego from the west).

Rifugio Lagazuoi is accessed by trail on foot, via the tunnel described above, or by cable car (open seasonally). The common summer itinerary is cable car up, hike around the summit, lunch & nap on the Rifugio Lagazuoi’s famous deck with unrivaled views of the Dolomites, then a descent of the WWI tunnel. Headlamp required, helmet recommended.

Visit Rifugio Lagazuoi for complete information, pricing, and booking.

Also, the hut keeper, Guido, is a great photographer and thanks to the situation of the hut, gets incredible weather photos. Follow the Hut’s Rifugio Lagazuoi Facebook Page or on Twitter @rifugiolagazuoi

Guido Pompanin & Dan Patitucci inside the Rifugio Lagazuoi

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Climbing in Paklenica National Park Croatia

Jul 6th, 2010
by dolomitesport.
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Paklenica National Park's Anica Kuk, 350 meters of perfect rock

Visiting Croatia?

Stable weather, friendly locals, good food, inexpensive, easy access, Mediterranean swimming, flawless limestone – lots of bolts, abundant routes, huts… this is Croatia’s Paklenica National Park. A little piece of heaven. Yet while most European climbing destinations are somewhat packed, Paklenica is like a step into the past, mellow and relaxed. Imagine taking part in the Italian film Il Postino but with climbing as the subject matter.

Swimming in Paklenica's many pools

Accessed from the sleepy seaside town of Starigrad, Paklenica is an oasis in a somewhat dry and inhospitable landscape. Here temperatures soar into the 30′s (90′s) creating more desire to soak in the Adriatic than to go climbing. In fact climbing seems an almost unlikely activity upon arriving. But, enter the park, just a few kilometers from Starigrad, and the entire scene undergoes a rapid change thanks to a deep canyon, lush forest and flowing small river. Paradise found. On our first morning we weren’t so sure about Paklenica, by evening, we were in love.

Starigrad is not the postcard seaside village of Croatia, there is no colorful bay, no fishing boats in a small harbor and no cute, quant little village. It is touristy but in an old school, traditional, authentic village kind of way. It is not expensive, camping is about €6/person, hotels top out at about €45/person, restaurant prices are reminiscent of Europe 10 years back. But here too you can stroll town with a gelato, get seafood fresh from the fishing boats, sit in a bar with other climbers and, best of all, easily pedal your bike to the crag where a small store provides gelato and drinks just 3 minutes from the start of the climbing walls.

Topping out on Anica Kuk

Paklenica National Park itself is all about big, limestone walls, deep canyons, hikes to 1800 meter peaks from sea level, and a lush forest with a hut system. The star attraction being Anica Kuk, a 350 meter wall of impeccable limestone with over 100 multi pitch routes of all grades. As one enters the park, the canyon narrows and immediately both sides form perfect climbing walls with countless routes from 5a to 8a. For the beginner-intermediate climber, it is paradise as there is an abundance of routes from 5a-6b, all well bolted with bomber anchors. It is very user friendly.

Starigrad Lodging

As you enter town it will become immediately obvious that lodging will not be a problem. There are many campgrounds, hotels and private rooms in homes (look for the word Sobe in Croatian). The campgrounds are very user friendly with, quite possibly, the cleanest bathrooms I have seen. We stayed at the seaside campground on the south end of town, Paklenica Camping, our car was a 4 second walk from swimming in the Adriatic, there is a bar and Bancomat in camp and the staff is super friendly and informative.

We also checked into the Hotel Vicko Villa for a few nights; 4 star, free Wi-Fi, great breakfast, super friendly, fantastic seaside position. €45/person.

Getting Around Starigrad and Paklenica

A bike is the absolute ideal form of transportation. We parked our car and never touched it for a week. From the center of Starigrad to the climbing is only 15 minutes on the bike, slightly uphill, but not steep. In the evening, it is a refreshing, fantastic end to the day as you coast into town and the gelato stand. At the road’s end in the Park there is a bike storage area.

Paklenica National Park Logistics & Climbing Info

> There is one primary entrance to the Park on the south end of Starigrad. Each day you must pay to enter, it is 40 Kuna per person (€5.50). Be sure to ask about multiple day passes.

> There is a small store within the park, 5 minutes from the parking and right at the beginning of the climbing area. A well with drinking water is found on the trailside about 10 minutes uphill from the main climbing area.

Big gear, or little person?

> Near the Park entrance from the main road is a climbing shop with all the necessities.

> Key Climbing Website for organizing a trip, visiting and climbing in Paklenica is Climb Croatia. There is a good Climbing Guidebook readily available throughout Starigrad, recommended.

> Climbing: The climbing is sport, with big, new bolts. Anchors are single massive rings or chains. For the easiest classic route on Anica Kuk, the 5c Mosoraski,some crack gear may be appreciated depending on your level and comfort running it out. A 60 meter rope is pretty much mandatory. Climbing style is classic limestone; pockets, tufa, greasy if a popular route, but always well equipped and on perfect rock. Some routes have small tags with name & grade at the bottom, but most do not. A guidebook is helpful.

> Language: Many locals speak English, but perfect German and Italian are also spoken.

What else to do in Starigrad?

Exploring Starigrad's coastline

> Cycling: Cruise the coastline north and check out some of the the sleepy little villages. Croatian coastal roads are an ideal combination of perfect asphalt, stunning scenery and no cars. A trail system is being developed that parallels the coastline on the edge of the park, we didn’t do it, but info is available at the tourist office.

> Hiking: Get an early start and hike up to the highest peaks. Sea level to 1760 meters, you’ll cross numerous zones en route to some great views. The Paklenica Hut, about 2 hours from the parking lot, offers lodging. 20 minutes below is also a small hut providing food and drink during the day. And 10 minutes further above is the small, incredibly friendly Ivancev Dom, also offering lodging.

> Take an evening trip to Zadar (45 minutes in car) and stroll the ancient town. Do not miss the seaside walk along the city walls where you will find a series of man made blow holes in the stone that create music based on the waves frequency as they hit the wall.

> Stop at a roadside fruit & veggie stand and stock up on tomatoes (consistently the best) and especially the figs – the sweetest, most flavorful we have ever had.

The Paklenica Hut

Ivancev Dom, Paklenica National Park

When to visit Paklenica?

I had mixed reports on this one (some said all year, others the spring and fall) but basically decided: April – early July then again September & October. We went in mid June and the temps were certainly high in town, but okay for climbing in the shade. The mid-day descent off Anica Kuk was something I wouldn’t be in a hurry to repeat. Thankfully, the many pools in the canyon’s river provide perfect swimming. And of course having a bath-like Mediterranean is quite wonderful.

Summary

Croatia is a special place, while very European, it is a bit of a step into something more gentle, less hectic. Everything is there as in Europe, but so too something from the past that gives it a unique feeling. It is a place one can spend a great deal of time and not feel like life is rushing by.

And the climbing… it is not so common that I have said, “That was one of the best routes I have ever done.” but in Paklenica… over and over again throughout the day.

As we only scratched the surface of things to do, in addition to the well written Lonely Planet Croatia guidebook, these websites are helpful:

Paklenica National Park |  Croatia Travel |  Find Croatia

Finally, Dubrovnik is a few hours south and undoubtedly one of Europe’s greatest destinations, it is well worth 2-3 days all on it’s own. Do not miss it.

Paklenica local

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