Trekking

Climbing All California 14er | Part 3

by dolomitesport.

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Dan Patitucci on the Shepherd Pass Trail

Mt. Tyndall

Clif Bar #4 and it's only 8 a.m.

With our new found enthusiasm for trail running, Mt. Tyndall was the perfect testing ground for a truly big day. While the peak does have a steep northeast face with some real climbing, all the routes were closed for Bighorn Sheep grazing. This left the long, slabby northwest face as the alternative. But first the run in, 12 miles up and over Shepherd Pass – then Mt. Tyndall for 9000 vertical feet of gain.

Our day started at 3 a.m. as we decided we did not want to look at the distances that would separate us from our goal. We chose to run Tyndall carrying little more than numerous Clif Bars, camera and water. Our decision proved wise as the day was long and our knees began a protest while descending the trail.
Tyndall is a triangular peak hidden behind its more famous neighbor, the bulky Mt. Williamson. Our preferred line was the North Rib, a 3rd class scramble on slabs piled with rubble.
Tyndall is a mountain overshadowed by its neighbor, seldom visited by anyone other than 14er baggers and yet has an amazing view in all directions but east. Its remoteness and isolated position give it a sense of being a bit more wild than other Sierra areas we visited. While we initially looked forward to it the least, it is one of the first we remember when we look back on our season.

Mt. Tyndall

Mt. Williamson

Mt. Williamson is at time closed for Bighorn Sheep grazing – skipped.

Split Mountain

The southernmost 14,000 foot peak of the Palisade Crest differs in many ways from its northerly neighbors. Rather than the typical granite of the Sierra, Split is composed of metamorphic rock of far less quality than the surrounding igneous variety.
Named for its appearance, the summit pinnacle is split in two, cleaved by a couloir that rises from bottom to top of the mountain itself.
In this couloir sits one of the Sierra’s longest ice climbs, and our objective.
Earlier in the summer Janine and I had also run into to climb Split via it’s walk up roue from the East Side. But it was the couloir that had caught my attention and I knew I had to try it.
On Thanksgiving Day my best friend Mark Leffler and I found ourselves climbing up the first pitches of the clear water ice draining from the base. A snow ramp led from the ice to a steep bulge in the couloir. A chimney on the left side exited on slabs covered in spindrift. With nightmare quality rock refusing to accept pro of any sort, Mark decided to venture onto the slab in the hopes of finding something better. Something better turned out to be worse than the rotten chimney. After desperately searching for something that did not crumble under the weight of an ice axe, Leffler opted for the down climb and a rapid exit out of the spindrift avalanching couloir.
Luckily, several hundred feet north of the couloir is another gulley though lower angled and filled with snow. This one allowed us access to the north ridge and a quick scramble to the summit.

White Mountain

We found driving the dirt roads to the parking lot more difficult than the “climb” to the summit of White Mountain. With a variety of research work done on the mountain, White has roads crisscrossing its upper slopes. The summit path is actually a jeep trail that ends at the small summit hut.
The terrain is nothing like the Sierra, rather it is a blank and richly earth toned landscape seemingly void of life. Yet there is an entirely different ecosystem in the Whites. Bighorn Sheep and wild horses still roam the high plains, cactus can be found as ground cover and of course there are the famous Bristlecone Pines. Believed to possibly be the world’s oldest living things, the Bristlecones are passed on the drive to the parking area for the summit hike.
White may best be done as the last peak so as to look across to the Sierra and recall all the places visited and all the moments experienced. We sat out the cold afternoon of a late fall day on the summit of White Mountain and recalled all that had happened during our time in the mountains.

Janine Patitucci running out from White Mountain, behind

It turns out it was not about the climbs, or the individual peaks or even the places. Rather, it was about the experience of the project as a whole, and the friends we shared it with.
Our lives changed as a result of getting to the tops of all these peaks, committing to such a project set us on our path which has become a career doing such things. It is not overly difficult or complicated to get to any one summit, but it is something to experience them and let them teach you things previously unknown about yourself. That is the beauty of being a climber who plays in the mountains.

Logistics and Issues

Backcountry permits are required for all of California’s 14ers excluding White Mountain. For all but the Palisade and Whitney regions, permits are easily obtained at the local USFS Ranger Stations in Bishop, Lone Pine and Big Pine.
Whitney and the Palisades are a different story.
Unless you know the exact dates you wish to climb Whitney months in advance, you’ll have to apply for permits the day before your desired entry date. This means being at the Lone Pine Ranger Station at 11am sharp the day before your approach. There, you’ll stand in line as part of a lottery for the unclaimed permits and walk in registrations. You may or may not receive a permit, in which case you will have to try again the next day.
This is the only option unless you receive a permit when permits are issued the previous spring. Hardly convenient for road tripping climbers.
However, with permit in hand, you’ll be legal to stay at your destination for up to 14 days. The Rangers, it seems, prefer to protect the trailhead more than the backcountry camping areas.
Luckily, we won the lottery our first day, and scratching our heads at the non-sense of the system, we headed for the portal with our permission slips to enter public lands.

Mountain Guides

Sierra Mountain Center : Longtime California and Sierra climber and UIAGM Guide SP Parker manages one of the Sierra’s most experienced guiding services. Running into SP in the Sierra became such a common occurrence that summer that we were forced to become great, and now “old”, friends.

Mountain guides are an excellent option for those new to the area or for those less experienced climbing in serious mountain terrain.

Rating: 5.0/5 (2 votes cast)

Climbing All California 14er | Part 2

Oct 22nd, 2009

by dolomitesport.

3 comments

Jay Bettencourt on Mt. Russell's Startrekkin' 5.10a

Trail running into Mt. Langley

Climbing California 14ers

With seven 14ers down and seven to go, we had options; rock climbing in the Whitney group or try one of the long car to car endeavors. We decided to do the Sierra’s southernmost 14er, Mt. Langley, deal with the huge distance to and from, and then go to Whitney.
And for this we opted to put our fitness to the test and try this new “mountain running” idea. Going lighter yet, with just a hydration pack and running clothes, we left the car in the dark, huffed and puffed to the summit, and were back enjoying beers kept frosty in a creek by early afternoon.
The athlete in me took note of this style of moving in the mountains. Lots of ground covered, little pack weight, committed to finishing, goal oriented – I like it.

Mt. Langley

The furthest south 14er in the state, Mt. Langley seems more closely related to the desert than the alpine peaks further north. Approached from the south, the peak is little more than a very long walk. With the addition of the 3rd class East South-East Ridge, the day does have some variety and a loop that can be done from the ridge’s starting point.
Mt. Langley was our favorite run of the season. Beginning at over 9,000 feet, the overall elevation gain is fairly minor and all comes at the base of the actual peak, 10 miles from the car. The Cottonwood Lakes Trail is a surprisingly lush approach to the distant dry peaks.
The descent is fast and fun screeing down towards Old Army Pass and Cottonwood Lakes where we napped on a boulder along the lakeshore before the knee friendly trail back to the car.

The Whitney Region

For me, the lower 48‘s tallest peak had always held a sort of ugly connotation. I imagined a peak lacking all of what I love about climbing in the mountains; freedom, a pristine environment and a difficult to obtain summit. In order to enjoy the Whitney region during the summer months it is best to turn off any idea of what the High Sierra should be like. The Mt. Whitney experience is like no other.
The first step is in acquiring the necessary permits (see Logistics, part 3). Next comes the approach which shares the same trail as the hiking route for the first section. Thankfully, climbers veer off from the masses with their mandatory neon permits hanging like permission slips on field tripping grammar school kids. Rather than following the highway-like trail along the South Fork of Lone Pine Creek, climbers follow the more primitive North Fork drainage to the cirque beneath the Whitney massif. There, at Iceberg Lake, climbers establish base camp from which to climb any of a number of the area’s offerings.

The Mt. Whitney Group

Janine Patitucci on Whitney's East Buttress

Our own experience at Iceberg was initially one of shock. Unlike the usual quiet camps in the mountains, this was bustling with climbers and guided groups.
However, as climbers will be climbers, we soon found some old friends and were quick to make new ones. Unlike the hordes on the other side of the crest who were shuffling along on their way to an “I Climbed Mt. Whitney” shirt, the climbers in camp were the usual mix of dirt bags and misfits with whom we felt right at home.

Mt. Whitney

Two climbing routes on Whitney see the vast majority of all the traffic; The East Face and the East Buttress. 5.4 and 5.8 respectively, it is hard to say which is better. The East face is more unique while the East Buttress offers better climbing. We did both several times during our stay at Iceberg and enjoyed them more each time.

Our first trip up Whitney was via the East Buttress and started late in the day. Numerous pitches of quality climbing leads to some blocky scrambling before the summit. The closer we got to the top, the more our silence was giving way to muffled voices.
Once on the summit, we were greeted with applause from the masses as it seemed to them we had come from the abyss. We counted over 50 people, 23 on cell phones, the rest on two way radios to friends still on trail or camp.
For our following summit visits, we found it best to put all climbing gear away below the summit so as to pull onto the top and blend in.

Though somewhat anticlimactic to a great day of climbing, the summit of Mt. Whitney is special. We outlasted the crowd and discovered that in almost every case, they must leave by late afternoon so as to make it to the car at a reasonable hour. Suddenly we were alone. What was like a city park scene an hour before had magically transformed back to an alpine Sierra summit. In our solitude, we enjoyed the day’s final light and relished the fact that we are climbers and able to move about in the mountains free of schedule.
With headlamps at the ready, we descended the well worn Mountaineers Route back to camp and the greetings of friends.

Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden on the Tower Traverse, 5.4 East Face of Mt. Whitney

Dan Patitucci on the Fresh Air Traverse, 5.4. East Face of Mt. Whitney

Descending Whitney's Mountaineer's Route

Iceberg Lake Camp beneath Mt. Whitney, day

Iceberg Lake Camp beneath Mt. Whitney, night

Each morning's view from Iceberg Lake

Mt. Russell. Many, many lines

Mt. Russell

From Basecamp, one can only see the top third of Mt. Russell’s south face rising up from behind a ridge. There is nothing quite like it anywhere in the area, perfectly parallel splitters all terminate on a ledge about 400 feet below the summit. The same splitters that nearly reach the ground hundreds of feet below.
Mt. Russell is the choice climbers peak of all the 14ers. Numerous quality routes litter the south and west walls, all of superb quality. The two standout features on Russell are the Fishhook Arete and the Mithral Dihedral, both 5.9, both 5 star.
For us, Mt. Russell was our first real climbing of the 14er project, it would also be the first day where we rappelled for our lives to escape a thunderstorm.

Four pitches into the Mithral Dihedral it began. Skipping the whole poor weather break in period, our puffy white clouds went straight to tempest. Within minutes it was snowing hard enough to obscure our visio and rendered it impossible to look up for all the snow tumbling down the face. With Janine and I’s belay rigged for shooting photos, and our friends still climbing up to us, we were forced to spend some time dealing with getting out of the nightmare we found oursleves in. To compound our problems, lightning and thunder became as one and the air literally began to sizzle and smell a bit odd. I do however recall thinking, “If we survive this, we’ll have some good pics”.

Finally, Mark Leffler pulled into our anchor after a heroic battle throwing handjams into a soaking wet corner. Survival instincts went into effect, the first of several rappel anchors was built, and we began our retreat. After some exciting rappels we were back on the ground, soaked and with new respect for puffy white clouds.

Mark Leffler gunning it for the anchors in snowfall and lightening

Mark Leffler in the Mithral Dihedral

A genuine look of concern on Dan Patitucci's face

Dave Miller on Mt. Russell's Startrekkin' 5.10a

Jeff Angermann on the Mithral Dihedral 5.9

The following day we returned to retrieve our gear and complete the Mithral Dihedral. In sunny, warm conditions we once again started up the golden corner, slotting perfect hand jams for 400 feet before pulling out of the vertical corner on rails and huge incut edges.
From the end of the corner, about 400 feet of pleasant 4th class climbing separates you from the summit and time to make mental notes of all the other Russell routes you plan to return for.

Mt. Muir

From Iceberg Lake, Mt Muir is obscured from sight behind the massive towers of the Whitney Crest. Sitting as a bump on the crest a mile south of Whitney’s summit, Muir meets the Sierra’s definition of an independent peak and is therefore considered a 14er. Oddly, the areas most spectacular peak, the Keeler Needle, is not considered an independent peak. While its summit elevation is 14,000 feet, its position is not far enough away from the summit of neighboring Mt. Whitney to give it 14er status – whatever. Muir however, does. Sad that the iconic character of the Sierra Nevada has such an unremarkable peak named after him.
From Iceberg lake we crossed the Pinnacle Ridge separating the Whitney cirque from the Muir cirque. There, we gained the East Ridge of Mt. Muir and followed its contrived and confusing line of 4th class to the top. From the summit we could peer 100 feet beneath us to the traffic pattern on the Whitney Trail. Muir receives little attention even though the summit is literally a few minutes from the trail. Viewed from the trail on the west side it is barely noticed, and as a result the summit goers pass by without regard.

With the Palisades and Whitney Group now complete – so too was our technical rock climbing. Mt. Tyndall’s climbing routes were closed for Bighorn Sheep grazing as was all of Mt. Williamson. Split Mountain holds an ice climb that would be a route for the late fall, and of course we were saving White Mountain for last so as to look out upon the Sierra with all new memories.

Part 3 will wrap things up with the balance of peaks as well as some Logistical Info and Mountain Guide tips

Rating: 5.0/5 (1 vote cast)

Climbing California 14,000 Foot Peaks

Oct 20th, 2009

by dolomitesport.

1 comment

I found this story archived in our computer and have decided to publish it (in three parts) to DolomiteSport along with the photos. I hope it serves as inspiration to reader’s for 2010 summer plans.

Sierra Nevada lenticular sunset

It was great fun to read this text and see how both our outlook and lives have changed. After the summer in which we finished the project, we decided to finally settle in California’s Bishop, where we lived for six years, exploring the Sierra and continuing to build our photography careers.

Climbing California 14,000 Foot Peaks

Middle Palisade naptime view

In 2001 we found ourselves homeless. We had a VW Westfalia that, on occasion started, a lot of time, and tons of motivation to build our photography business. We were also climbers with a love for California’s Sierra Nevada.
Our summer home was wherever our van broke down, and so for the summer of 2001, we, or shall I say it, “decided” to spend some time in the Eastern Sierra. I had long wanted to climb all of California’s 14,000 foot peaks and realized the time was right.
To see if we could get some work out of the idea we queried Rock & Ice Magazine. The response, “Do it and we’ll publish it”.
And so it started.

The creators that be were feeling extraordinarily generous the day the ingredients were gathered for California’s Sierra Nevada; reliable, stable weather, stunning scenery and flawless golden granite, all of which are easily accessible from the high desert of the range’s eastern side. For climbers and backpackers the range is unequalled for summer weather.

Mt. Shasta's Casaval Ridge

For whatever reason, we humans enjoy tackling goals that involve numbers, specifically quantities of like quantities. In California, a common project, whether it be in one season or a lifetime, is to climb all the 14,000 foot peaks.
The Sierra Nevada range has 13 individual peaks over 14,000 feet (14ers) while two others exist on their own; White Mountain in the nearby Inyo Range and the northernmost and lone volcano, Mt. Shasta. Several of the peaks would not receive the traffic that they do if they did not have the magic elevation, yet as a group, and a goal, the overall combination is a wonderful collection of experiences.

Climbing Casaval Ridge

At first glance, I was not overly enthusiastic with all the route info. As a climber I wanted 5th class. While many do have technical routes, many others have little more than trails to the top. It looked like we would be doing some hiking, and at this I shuddered. Now, years later, I look back and understand it was the beginning of our careers as trail runners – what has turned out to be one of our favorite sports.

Our project began in the spring on the snowy slopes of Mt. Shasta. One of the Cascade’s volcanos, Shasta sits well isolated from California’s other 14,000 foot peaks, or any other major summit, near the Oregon border. Completely dominating the surrounding landscape, it is considered sacred by many, not the least of which are skiers and climbers who come in herds to take advantage of its bounty of offerings, and especially the rich, spring corn harvest.

To be on the mountain alone is truly a treat, and we were lucky enough to have it to ourselves. A late storm blasted the mountain with strong, freezing winds but a good forecast had us thinking ahead. On skis, we headed up while it was still raging hoping the forecast would turn out correct, and it was. The summit morning was crystal clear and freezing allowing our route, the popular Casaval Ridge, to be in perfect shape.

Mt. Shasta's summit plateau

Climbing Shasta involves breathing hard while trudging along. Technical difficulty is minimal, just a basic understanding of traveling on snow and ice, along with well prepared lungs and good weather, and you should get to the top.
The route passes volcanic towers before gaining a long ramp to the summit plateau. Our crampons barely scratched the surface of the windswept blue ice as we crossed the plateau to the summit pinnacle. There, inhaling the noxious sulfur fumes that serve as reminders to what you are on top of, the reality of the mountain’s sizes becomes apparent. Shasta sits alone and on a clear day one has a 360 degree view without obstruction.
Once descending, we hurried to where we had left our skis and were soon flying down the mountain. Shasta’s slopes stretch for miles and from 12,000 feet we were on a gravity induced path to our car who’s door we arrived at with ski’s still attached.

The Palisade Crest from basecamp

The Palisade

Next up, but not until early August, were the Palisades. Arguably the Sierra’s best true Alpine playground, we found the climbing much to our liking. Steep couloirs, quality ridge climbing and sound rock had us loving our days. We were in no hurry to leave the otherworld nature of the area, and the basecamp full of characters.

Our arrival to the Palisade Basin left us awestruck to the fact that something so alpine exists in the Sierra Nevada, much less in California. Sitting next to the Palisade Glacier (little more than a large snowfield yet the largest glacier in the Sierra) is basecamp for most of the climbing. From camp is an unobscured view of the crest and all its lines.
The Palisade’s six 14,000 foot summits are not so much a series of peaks as they are a series of bumps on the mile long crest. Traversing the crest involves putting all your skills as a rock climber and route finder to the test.

North Palisade & Starlight Peak

Our first day had the ridgeline’s high point, North Palisade, as the focus. In addition, we planned a traverse further north so as to include Starlight Peak. The classic route on North Pal is to climb the class 3 ice U Notch to the crest where easy 5th class rock leads to the summit. The U Notch, like its steeper neighbor the V, varies in steepness from season to season. The crux is typically found at the bottom where the bergschrund opens as a massive chasm blocking access to the couloir itself. Crossing the bergschrund involves climbing down, across and then out. More like a lesson in ice spelunking than climbing, it is nevertheless fascinating to explore the glacier from inside. Once in the couloir, several hundred feet of low angle ice await.

The Palisade glacier really is a glacier, crevasses and all

On top of the couloir is more rock leading to the summit. The difficulty is in route finding as the crest is littered with towers and blocks at every angle making passage tricky. The climbing is slow but the views keep you inspired, it is like being on a summit the whole time.
Once on top of North Palisade, we continued along the crest towards the next 14er, Starlight Peak. A large notch separates the two and serves as the day’s crux.
The summit of Starlight itself is a spire stuck in the crest and for most, summiting involves lassoing the tip and climbing the rope Tarzan style to the top.

Matt Samet nearing the North Palisade summit. Not required, nor recommended.

Mt. Sill

We correctly regarded Mt. Sill as a rest day after the previous day’s effort. Our goal was to spend 4 days in the Palisade basecamp from which we could summit five 14ers. The approach from the car to the Palisade Basecamp is a relatively easy one so we opted for heavier packs loaded with good food. Our goal was simply to climb all the 14ers, not to climb them quickly as is possible by doing a traverse of the whole crest in one push, something I would do car to car years later, discovering what the word exhaustion means.
For this trip, food and friends to share it with was of the utmost importance.

Climbers headed to the crest at sunrise

We awoke late the second morning and had a leisurely breakfast and good Peet’s coffee before heading up to the base of the ridge.
Mt. Sill’s Swiss Arete was a perfect match for the amount of effort we wanted to put forth. The line is primarily 3rd and 4th class with a short, technical bit of 5.6 climbing. The Swiss Arete serves as a divider between the North Palisade Crest and the Southern sector, and it is one of the few spots where both areas can be viewed.
I found the climbing so enjoyable that as I pulled over the lip of a block and reached up for the next, I was surprised to discover that I was on the summit. With its centralized position, Mt. Sill may have the best view in the Sierra. Complete with smooth, tilted blocks, it is a summit to lounge on and take in the immensity and wildness of the Sierra Nevada.

David Neale in the V Notch. Summer ice climbing in California.

Polemonium

Barely noticeable as an independent peak, Polemonium has possibly the best route of the Palisade’s 14ers. The V Notch is the classic Sierra couloir. Narrower and steeper than its easier neighbor, the U, the V climbs like a route while the U is more of an approach.
In 2001, the first 80 feet were unusually steep and combined the August weather, allowed for dreamy, styrofoam conditions.

JIm Karn on Thunderbolt Peak

Ice screws are recommended protection as the gulley’s side walls, while tempting with rock pro, are loose and not worth the effort. As the morning warmed, we dodged some rockfall by staying to the sides before arriving in full sun near the top. With only one hundred feet remaining, I found my lead come up short before reaching safer ground. Stuck in the middle of the icy expanse, I placed three screws and began belaying my friends. By the time they arrived I had every screw available in as an anchor, my original three screws poking out of the slushy mess an inch more than when I first arrived.
Once on top we discovered we were not through with Polemonium. A steep notch separates the summit from the ridge with wildly improbable 4th class climbing out of it to the top. A rope is strongly recommended.

Thunderbolt

Our day on Thunderbolt nearly had it living up to its name. Warm, clear summer days and t-shirt climbing gave way to the first thunderheads of our stay. A dash up the Underhill Couloir put us at the base of the short ridge to the summit and a view to the threatening clouds arriving from the west. 4th class led to the summit block where a boulder resides as the fifth 14er of our Palisade visit. A tricky and unprotected 5.9 boulder problem guards the top. Frantically, we tagged the summit and dashed down ahead of the incoming tempest.
Back in basecamp we celebrated the completion of round two, five 14ers in four days. Six of the 14 down, eight to go.

At the beach, Sierra style

After finishing five of the six Palisade 14ers, we began our less than enthusiastic march to Middle Palisade and our first 3rd class route. Our day began like all the others, hike to the base, gain the buttress, climb rock to summit. Yet today was different in that we climbed side by side with no rope and no rack, we were liberated. Our dreaded 3rd class route became one of our favorites. It had everything all the others had, exposure, rapid elevation gain and good rock, it just had no technical climbing. The reason why we love climbing in the mountains became even clearer, we simply love being there.

Once back in town, we revisited the hit list with new found enthusiasm. We realized that climbing all the 14ers wasn’t necessarily about the climbing, but rather the project as a whole, each peak offers its own character, its own set of challenges and maybe most importantly, its own education. And this was the best sort of schooling.

_______________________________________

Part 2 will include a nearly tragic storm on Mt. Russell plus route by route info for each peak as well as Mountain Guide and logistical information for getting permits.

To be continued…

Mark Leffler gunning it for the anchors in snowfall and lightening

Rating: 5.0/5 (3 votes cast)

Pfunderer Höhenweg

Aug 21st, 2009

by dolomitesport.

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The Pfunderer Hohenweg

The Pfunderer Höhenweg Hiking Tour

Late in the fall of 2008, we found ourselves on one of the best ridge line trails we had ever seen. We were trail running the Sud Tirol’s Pfunderer Höhenweg in the Zillertal Alpen above Bruneck and wanted to see a summit we know locals frequent for post work exercise, the Sambock. Once on top, the trail dropping off the north side of the summit came into view and for as far as our eyes could see, stayed right on the high ridge line until it disappeared into some higher mountains.

High above Bruneck with views to the Marmolada and the Dolomites

“What is this?” Maps would need consulting. It turns out the trail is the Pfunderer Höhenweg Hiking Tour (Alta Via di Fundres in Italian) and stretches from Sterzing (Vipiteno in Italian) to Bruneck (Brunico). While traditionally done as a 5-6 day hiking tour with huts available each night, we decided to see if the whole trail was as good as the first section for running. In June 2009 we set out with our best friend Andreas Irsara carrying only small hydration packs to run its approximate 75 kilometers – but in 3 days.

20090613-_mg_7137

Starting in Bruneck, we once again climbed to the summit of the Sambock where the trail becomes mostly runnable for the entire first day. Sticking to the same ridgeline we had seen the year before, the trail goes up and over numerous peaks while providing unobscured views to both the Dolomites in the south and the high alpine, glacier covered Zillertal Alpen peaks to the north. The trail continues like this for several kilometers before climbing a small pass, La Portella, and then a drop to the Tiefrastenhutte (Rifugio Lago della Pausa). This would traditionally be a stopping point and for us it was, but only for a pasta, we would continue on to the Edelrauthutte.

Dinnertime in the Edelrauthutte

The next section of trail gets into some higher elevation and we discovered that the reason we were seeing no one on the trail was because much of it was snow covered. The winter of 2009 was a massive one and all the passes from here forward were still buried. But there are advantages to this – direct lines and fast descents. Cold, soaked feet seem a small price to pay.

Once at the Edelrauthutte we were greeted by Anton Weissteiner, quite possibly the kindest hut warden I have ever had the pleasure of meeting. We were his guests for the night, and having been open only one day, we were able to take advantage of his enthusiasm for the coming season. A four course meal satisfied our 33 kilometer hunger. Seeing how disgustingly full we were, Anton saw fit to provide us with multiple glasses of grappa to aid in digestion, it certainly aided in sleeping.

The Edelrauthutte

The next morning we set out on a modified route. Anton warned us of too much snow to cross a pass where ladders must be climbed. But a variation to the trail was no problem and we were on our way to the Bodenalm Hut and a quick late morning strudel before once again entering the high, snow covered alpine areas. For us the second day was both roaring hot and ice cold. Dropping down low above the Pfundertal had us on south facing slopes and sweating. From here we climbed and climbed until we were on north facing slopes to the pass below the Punta Riva. In a completely white world we began questioning why we were doing this, in running shoes and lycra. Soaked and a bit frozen, we reached the col and were rewarded with a direct, snow covered line to the Brixner Hut 400 meters below. Minutes later, we were drying out and drinking coffee.

Lago Selvaggio, still quite frozen in June

So far the trail, the terrain, and the huts had been perfect. One day remained for our itinerary and it looked to be a different kind of terrain as we would be lower in elevation before dropping to Sterzing. But first more snow covered passes, the Rauhtaljoch is the morning’s climb to 2800 meters, and here we were once again in a white world all the way down to the Lago Selvaggio which was still frozen solid. Luckily all the snow was hard enough for us to stay on top of which actually made for faster speeds. Yet another pass above the lake before an enormous drop to the Simile Mahdalm, a small farmers home which looks deceptively like a hut but is in fact a working farm. And here the Pfunderer Hohenweg began to fall apart. Until this point the trail, while even snow covered, was very obvious. But now the trail became a faint goat path and climbed as steep as any trail I have ever seen. Vertical dirt is not easy to run. But we gained elevation quickly like this and soon were on top of the final pass, the Passo di Trens (Trenserjoch).

The descent to Sterzing

Here, once again the trail is a faint line through grassy terrain. We wondered if anyone actually does this section, the landscape is fantastic and would be a fitting ending to a superb tour, but really, the trail needs some work. Soon we were on the final drop to Sterzing through lush green forests and trails with more traffic. The temperatures were going up and gelato was on our minds.

Overall the Pfunderer Hohenweg gets a B. For running it is perhaps a bit steep in places, but overall very runnable and high quality. For hiking, it is beautiful although there are many other trails a bit more interesting. The area around the Edelrauthutte is the best in terms of mountain environment while the rest of the trail is very indicative of the the lower Zillertal Alpen Group. One thing I certainly realized after doing this trail was that I had seen the area, from the lower slope goat and cow farms to high rocky ridges, to alpine terrain. The huts were superb, the food fantastic and being a point to point, a rewarding journey. The Pfunderer Hohenweg is recommended.

Please please please… If you do the Pfunderer Hohenweg, we’d love a trip report of your own. We have seen a number of Google Searches for the trek come to us, there is not that much info out there on this great trail.

Leaving the Brixner Hut

Dinner at the Brixner Hut

Rating: 0.0/5 (0 votes cast)

Hiding during Ferragosto

Aug 18th, 2009

by dolomitesport.

1 comment

To me, the word “Ferragosto” makes me think of ringing cellphones, family squabbles and lots of dark, tanned skin being shown off on the decks of huts. Just what is this Ferragosto and why hidding during August? For American readers it is really only a useful term for trivia board games, but if one is planning a trip to the Dolomites during the month of August, read on.

Ferragosto falls on August 15 and is the traditional day to celebrate summer, it is also, on a completely unrelated note, the day for Catholics where the Blessed Virgin Mary rises to the heavens. In German, it is known as “Maria Himmelfahrt” (German for ”Mary goes to the sky”) - my personal favorite term. At some point August 15 was spread out to include the entire month of August. Half the population goes to the sea, the other half to the Dolomites, or so it seems. Needless to say, it is busy and loud, something like Italian TV live throughout the mountains, fully entertaining. While I enjoy the Italians and all the frenetic energy that they bring, I also like to escape, in fact in the last days I have managed hidding completely from the hordes by venturing north to the Zillertal Alpen. There we have mountain biked, hiked and climbed with no one around, and all in an amazing landscape complete with glaciers, towering peaks, idyllic green hillsides and perfectly situated mountain huts.

All of this while the Dolomite’s famous landmarks resemble Disneyland.

The lesson – if you plan to travel to the Dolomites during August – book your stay well in advance, hotels and huts. Look into some alternate locations to visit rather than just the icons. There are countless areas where the tourists do not go that are equally as stunning. Yes, DolomiteSport is a resource for the Dolomites, but in this case, no we are not going to say where to go – half the fun is figuring it out. Some hints, keyword search Google with Val Aurina, Anterselva, Riva di Tures, Rio Bianco, Edelrauthutte, Tiefrastenhutte… an entire playground exists to the north.

Rating: 4.0/5 (2 votes cast)

Iceland Laugavegur Tour

Aug 14th, 2009

by dolomitesport.

1 comment

As photographers we are fortunate to be able to travel to the most beautiful natural places to do our work. We’ve just returned from our third work trip to Iceland, a destination we chose for the work. The landscape, the colors and the absolute stunning & unique qualities are what brought us back not once, but twice. A photo gallery will be linked below.

Arguably the most famous hiking tour in Iceland is the Laugavegur Tour. Traditionally done north to south, the trek begins at a drop off point called Landmannalaugar. This tiny launch pad is a destination in its own right, in fact I would argue that it is the single most beautiful place I have ever been. The area consists of one small hut (sleeps 80), a large campground for trekkers, a small building with sinks, toilets and showers, a covered eating area, an old school bus turned store, and the most coveted of all… a large natural hot spring that serves as swimming pool, meeting place, bath, warming room and of course bar.

Landmannalaugar

Luckily the Laugavegur Tour is good enough to motivate one to leave Landmannalaugar, but only just barely. For those not wanting to do the tour, a stay of 3 or 4 days in Landmannalaugar will keep you both busy and fascinated. But for those doing the Laugavegur, be sure to allow for at least 2 days to explore the Landmannalaugar area.

The Laugavegur Tour

The Laugavegur tour is 4 – 6 days long if sticking to the traditional program. Huts are reached each night where one may sleep inside (if you have a reservation), or camp in the nearby camping area. Food is not available, bring all your food, even if staying in the huts. Inside the huts are kitchens with everything you’ll need, but only for those staying in the huts, campers are on their own.

On the fourth night one arrives to Thorsmork where many people call the tour finished, but the 5th day from Thorsmork south to Fimmvorouhals is superb and should not be missed. If nothing else, do it as an out and back from Thorsmork, this is what we did as the weather was terrible to continue south. Thorsmork is in some ways a natural ending as there is bus service to the hut that returns hikers to Reykjavik.

Landmannalaugar Hot Spring

The full 6 day tour is about 85 kilometers while the Thorsmork finish keeps it at about 55 kilometers. It is mostly flat and rolling terrain, there are no real climbs with the exception of the 5th day which climbs a pass to 1112 meters from about 150 meters. Expect to walk in some summer hardpack snow. Hikers should be reasonably fit and used to carrying heavy packs. Consider this: There is a running race from Thorsmorrk to Landmannalaugar on the same trail, the best time is 4:10…

Landmannalaugar (590m) – Hrafntinnusker (1100m)

An unforgettable day of walking through a landscape like no other. Thermal vents, boiling mud pits, lava flows, and colors never seen in the natural world will all be trailside. There is a massive ice cave in a nearby small glacier that serves as a short side trip from the hut at Hrafntinnusker.

Hrafntinnusker (1100m) - Álftavatn (530m)

From Álftavatn it’s another spectacular day with some river crossings, be prepared to get wet. If there has been a lot of rain, ask the hut keeper about water levels. Distant views to the massive glaciers will come into sight.

Álftavatn (530m) - Emstrur (500m)

The landscape will begin to change this day and becomes more open and stark. Massive wide open, black sand covered scenery and a large river are passed before reaching Emstrur.

The trail follows a river valley out to Thorsmörk where the landscape turns back to green. The giant glacier of Myrdalsjokull will be on the left side throughout the day and several small rivers must be crossed, all with ice cold glacier melt water.

Landmannalaugar Steam Vents

Thorsmörk (200m) – Brattafonn Pass (1116m)

From Thorsmork the trail immediately begins to climb to a huge flat plateau. From here the Myrdalsjokull Glacier will be immediately in front of you. Continue climbing to 1100 meters where the trail traverses a gap between two massive ice fields. Once on the Brattafonn Pass the last hut is a few kilometers below. Care should be taken to only attempt this day in good weather. Poor visibility or snowfall can quickly ruin the fun. Check in at the campground or hut for full weather reports.

Fimmvorouhals – Skoga (sea level)

Thorsmork area

A road is descended from the Fimmvorouhals hut to Skogafoss and the village of Skoga where buses may be taken to Reykjavik.

Iceland Touring Association Website : http://www.fi.is And an excellent page on the tours: Iceland Hiking Trails

Hut Reservations: Full list of huts with phone numbers for reservations. Huts are about 3300 Icelandic Krona per person. Camping is 900 and Showers 400.

Bus Info: Iceland’s Bus Service is superb, buses run daily from Rekjavik to Landmannalaugar. One does NOT need a car in Iceland, impressive given how remote some areas are.

Check in with www.re.is for all info.

Time of Year: Depending on weather, the huts will be open from June to sometime in September. Buses stop running on 13 September. It is possible to do the tour outside this time frame but the logistics of transportation becomes an issue. Landmannalaugar offers plenty of day trips. Check in with Iceland Tourism for all info.

Hiking in Landmannalaugar

What to Take: Standard backpacking camping gear including:

Durable tent for wind.

Nights are not too cold, but a sleeping bag comfortable to -10 celsius will be appreciated.

Good rain gear, waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex is your friend, you may well spend the whole day in it.

Gore-Tex footwear. Expect mud and stream crossings.

Many people take a pair of lightweight Teva like sandals to wear for the river crossings.

Trekking poles are good for the rivers as well, also for the heavy packs.

Rain covers for the packs.

Eye covers for the all night light.

Cellphones are handy for calling ahead to huts, there is cell and data service almost everywhere.

Dinner in the tent (too wet outside the tent)

Food: One of the unfortunate aspects of Iceland, especially from our coming from Italy, is the food. Iceland’s cuisine seems to be inspired by the American midwest diner – greasy burgers, overcooked everything and little in the way of veggies. While one can find fantastic food in Reykjavik’s restaurants, it is difficult to eat anything healthy outside the city. Stores offer lots of white, processed sugary food – be prepared or bring your own. Remember, nearly everything in stores is shipped to Iceland, and the island is a long way from anything. In Landmannalaugar there is some food available at an old school bus turned into store, they have a surprising variety including lake caught Char, fresh bread is delivered daily. Yes, beer is sold as well.

Weather: It wouldn’t be Iceland if it didn’t get cloudy and rain each day. Just be prepared for some wet weather. Wind is the real enemy if it is combined with the rain. When it blows, it rages. Temps during the day should be about 8-16 Celsius. We have also seen 21 but as an average, it is more like 14.

Language: Iceland natives all speak perfect English and are some of the friendliest people we have met anywhere. They are great fun and love to party, it is a very welcoming country for visitors, no problems.

Summary: Landmannalaugar is really a life list kind of destination, it is that good and that special. The Laugavegur Tour is icing on the Landmannalaugar cake. While Iceland has experienced economic woes in the last year, tourists have benefited. What were once shockingly high prices for everything have become much closer to what the rest of the world is used to. Now is the time to go and deals are to be found from both Europe and North America. Iceland wants your business and you’ll be glad you went, a win win.

DolomiteSport is run by PatitucciPhoto – or, Dan & Janine Patitucci, professional commercial photographers specializing in mountain sports. It is our goal to motivate people to experience wonderful places, such as Iceland. We do so through our trip reports, but more so through our images. This photo gallery is a collection of images from areas in and around Landmannalaugar and Thorsmork, including the National Park Jokulsargljufur.

Iceland Laugavegur Photo Gallery

–we welcome all comments and additional trip info from readers. Thanks.

Rating: 5.0/5 (1 vote cast)

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Landmannalaugar (590m) – Hrafntinnusker (1100m)

Hrafntinnusker (1100m) - Álftavatn (530m)

Álftavatn (530m) - Emstrur (500m)

Thorsmörk (200m) – Brattafonn Pass (1116m)

Fimmvorouhals – Skoga (sea level)

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