DolomiteSport Rotating Header Image

Travel

Skiing the Lyngen Alps of Norway

Nov 18th, 2011
by dolomitesport.
1 comment

For about six years we made feeble attempts to get to Norway’s Lyngen Alps. A combination of not really understanding the logistics combined with our timing being off and/or the trip & lodging we wanted being full all added up to putting it off. Finally in March 2011 we made it and happily found it was worth the effort. It is a somewhat confusing area to research, but once there it all becomes clear. Hopefully this post will help make sense of it all prior to a visit.

As usual, our travel plans and itinerary are shaped by photoshoots, this was no exception. We were there to make some specific types of ice climbing photos. While we had always dreamt of the “Stay on a Boat” option, for this trip we needed to stay on land and with a car for mobility. Ice climbing and backcountry skiing were the focus. So, together with our friend, and pro climber, Kurt Astner, off we went.

Google “Lyngen Alps”, “Norway Skiing”, or any other combo of such and you are likely to get the Lyngen Lodge as your top hit. We did, and so we contacted them. It took forever to get a response, and when we finally did it was, “all full, all season”. We began to notice that there really are very few other lodging options with the exception of the Magic Mountain Lodge in Lyngseidet. An email went out, minutes later we had an answer, “available”. We booked and this turned out to be a blessing in disguise.

Lyngseidet from the Magic Mountain Lodge

Getting to the Lyngen Alps is easy; Fly to Norway (Oslo) and connect via another flight to Tromsø, rent a car, drive 2 hours and you are there. The driving part is easy, beautiful, and awe inspiring if it’s during the day. For us it was a white knuckle, pitch black drive through a howling blizzard. Tromsø, being a hip and interesting city is well worth a visit. If you arrive in the evening, consider an overnight stay.

We arrived to the Magic Mountain Lodge at about midnight and were very ready for our long travel day to end. Once there we walked into my dream world. For countless years I have dreamt of running a hotel in a great location that caters to mountain sport athletes – here it was. The couple (Patrik & Henrika) running the show were instantly welcoming, accommodating and new friends.

I asked Patrik for a beer, if possible something local. From behind the bar he pulled out three talls. “These are Macks, the world’s northernmost brewery”. He popped the tabs. “Also the most expensive”, he grinned. Gulp. We sipped, and then we gulped the beers. Superb, but yes damaging to the wallet.

As I always say about so many things, “It is all about the people”. This was never more true than with our stay at Magic Mountain Lodge.

Skiing in the Lyngen Alps

The blessing in disguise turned out to be the location. It always takes a visit to figure out how best to experience a mountain area, and one visit to the Lyngen Alps makes it clear that the best location to base yourself is indeed, the town of Lyngseidet. The fjords, while great, are mightily inconvenient for getting around as the roads take you in and out of every inlet. Of course there is the ferry, but it is time consuming as well, expensive and you must still drive. The primary area to ski in the Lyngen Alps, and the area you will look at and say, “Let’s go there” is directly accessed from the village of Lyngseidet. The Lyngen Lodge is located on the opposite side of the fjord, in much smaller mountains and requires traveling by boat over to the main area for skiing. One reason to stay on the opposite side is simple – the view is superb. But if you want to get up in the morning and go skiing with as little commute as possible, stay in Lyngseidet.

Where snow meets the sea

Another option is to stay on one of the many charter boats. These are large, comfy, liveable boats (small ships in some cases) that travel the fjords and dock or anchor close to the next days ski objective. We saw them everywhere, one day dropping off all 30 skiers on a beach and then heading up on skis behind us. We spoke to the guests and they reported a great time, although the rocking boat made some less than comfortable. Some operations offer much smaller groups for friends with guides. Or, join in on one the big boats and make new friends. Certainly a cool option.

Skiing to the beach from high in the Lyngen Alps

What to expect of the Skiing

Our trip was mid March and we found it to be superb. Two different thoughts seem to exist on when to go. The dead of winter for powder skiing, amazing light, and the likelihood of seeing the Aurora Borealis. Then there is the spring for longer days and still generally great skiing. We found the skiing to be as unique as the overall experience. As the approaches begin at the beach, the first few hundred meters up was often in slop that would put “Sierra cement” to shame. Then suddenly, like a line drawn, it would all change to powder. When it changed to a crust, we were still able to find powder skiing on the right aspect. Depending on where you go, you will start on the beach, skin through a brief forest, pop into alpine terrain and perhaps travel on glaciers on your way to a couloir, summit or high plateau. Your descents often put you right back on the beach – where else do you get to ski to the beach?

Hiring a Mountain Guide

Given that I said skiing in the Lyngen Alps will all make sense once you get there, it will not be a guarantee that you will go to the right places for the best skiing or be tuned into the avalanche conditions. We saw pretty quickly that the avalanche risk can be high in these parts, and that like all mountain areas, the Lyngen Alps have their own set of rules. Our friend Kurt is a UIAGM Guide, and together we discussed and researched each day’s plan. We found good snow and stayed out of trouble. But, we saw the opposite for some visitors. If you are interested in getting a guide, check in with the crew at the Magic Mountain Lodge as we did meet some local UIAGM Guides who would stop in for an evening beer.

Lyngen Alps Ice Climbing 

One of the reasons we were in Norway was to shoot ice climbing with Kurt Astner. Kurt is one of the best ice climbers in the world and a former Italian National Champion. His intention was to seek out new lines and new ice falls that he had heard about through friends. He did just that. If climbing some ice while on a ski trip is your thing, it is certainly possible in this area. I won’t pretend to offer advice, only to say there is a lot of nice, primarily on the east side of the fjords from the Lyngen Alps and easily accessed by car from the ferry at Olderdalen.

Interested to see the images we made, and a video of how we made them? Visit : PatitucciPhoto Norway Ice Climbing.

Kurt Astner on a new line outside Olderdalen, Norway

Interested in following what we do, as we do it, via your favorite Social Media:

Facebook : DolomiteSport

Twitter : dolomitesport 


 

 

VN:F [1.9.15_1155]
Rating: 5.0/5 (2 votes cast)
Share

Rifugio Lagazuoi and the WWI Gallery

Jul 17th, 2010
by dolomitesport.
3 comments

Walking through WWI trenches, Monte Lagazuoi

The bottom entrance to the Lagazuoi Gallery

A Historical Walk to Dinner through the Lagazuoi Tunnels

Part of the culture of life in the Italian Dolomites is to share a dinner with friends in one of the many mountain huts (rifugi) – for us, this is habit. Sometimes we hike, other times it’s a ski approach, maybe a trail run, or even a mountain bike ride. But last night was something unique, we arrived to the Rifugio Lagazuoi via a pitch black tunnel from WWI that ascends nearly 400 meters to the top of Monte Lagazuoi.

Our friend Carolyn is doing the Alta Via 1 and called to invite us for dinner at the hut. It was the perfect summer evening to head up and see her as well as the hut’s owner and friend Guido Pompanin. Dinner was set for 6:45 – we arrived at the trailhead at 6 and immediately took note of the trail sign indicating a two hour walk to the hut. “Merda, RUN!”

Inside the Gallery

A couple hundred meters above the parking area the trail splits; options include a long hike around the peak to it’s backside and up to the summit hut, or a tunnel going straight up within the mountain itself. The tunnel is a kind of museum as it is a perfectly preserved piece of war history. Built over a period of many months by the Italian army during WWI, the tunnel was meant to access the top and ultimately blow up the strategically located Austrian artillery placement. The monumental effort of boring through a mountain simply to then blow it up paid off and the Austrians lost there stronghold. Today, where men once lived in misery and fear, iPhone wielding tourists now strut about bound for the hut and a pasta, I was no exception.

Janine, aka Little Red Riding Hood, exiting the Gallery on top

We opted for the tunnel as it is faster and more direct and we had done it many times before – but never in a rush to make dinner. Up we went, each step inside the inky darkness gaining us a half meter. The lights from our headlamps passed over the many interior features; the soldiers living quarters, a water cistern, and many portholes in the tower’s side for dumping the stone and debris from the tunnel. Finally, we arrived at the top, exited the tunnel and like the Italian army in WWI, found not a soul about. But while the Austrian army made a rapid departure after catching wind of the impending arrival of the Italians and a potential large explosion, today’s summit inhabitants were gathered inside the Rifugio enjoying an aperitif.

After the Gallery there is an easy walk to the summit

Our own dash for the hut ended with the front door opening and Carolyn stepping out to greet us – promptly at 6:45. From the dank tunnel we suddenly found ourselves in a room full of cheer. Guido handed us towels for washing up, drinks arrived, and many friends gathered about. A fun feast was next, storytelling and a beautiful sunset making silhouettes of distant Dolomite towers. The evening became late, people wandered off to bed, we said good night, put our headlamps on and headed back to the tunnels.

The final steps to the top and the Lagazuoi Hut

______________________________________________

Travel in Italy’s Dolomites

A visit to the Heart of the Dolomites should certainly include a day or two exploring the Lagazuoi and Cinque Torri area. This is some of the most rugged and scenic terrain in all of the Dolomites and is accessed from any of the surrounding valley’s; Cortina d’Ampezzo (Passo Falzarego from the east), Alta Badia (Passo Valparola) or Arraba (Passo Falzarego from the west).

Rifugio Lagazuoi is accessed by trail on foot, via the tunnel described above, or by cable car (open seasonally). The common summer itinerary is cable car up, hike around the summit, lunch & nap on the Rifugio Lagazuoi’s famous deck with unrivaled views of the Dolomites, then a descent of the WWI tunnel. Headlamp required, helmet recommended.

Visit Rifugio Lagazuoi for complete information, pricing, and booking.

Also, the hut keeper, Guido, is a great photographer and thanks to the situation of the hut, gets incredible weather photos. Follow the Hut’s Rifugio Lagazuoi Facebook Page or on Twitter @rifugiolagazuoi

Guido Pompanin & Dan Patitucci inside the Rifugio Lagazuoi

VN:F [1.9.15_1155]
Rating: 5.0/5 (5 votes cast)
Share

Climbing in Paklenica National Park Croatia

Jul 6th, 2010
by dolomitesport.
1 comment

Paklenica National Park's Anica Kuk, 350 meters of perfect rock

Visiting Croatia?

Stable weather, friendly locals, good food, inexpensive, easy access, Mediterranean swimming, flawless limestone – lots of bolts, abundant routes, huts… this is Croatia’s Paklenica National Park. A little piece of heaven. Yet while most European climbing destinations are somewhat packed, Paklenica is like a step into the past, mellow and relaxed. Imagine taking part in the Italian film Il Postino but with climbing as the subject matter.

Swimming in Paklenica's many pools

Accessed from the sleepy seaside town of Starigrad, Paklenica is an oasis in a somewhat dry and inhospitable landscape. Here temperatures soar into the 30′s (90′s) creating more desire to soak in the Adriatic than to go climbing. In fact climbing seems an almost unlikely activity upon arriving. But, enter the park, just a few kilometers from Starigrad, and the entire scene undergoes a rapid change thanks to a deep canyon, lush forest and flowing small river. Paradise found. On our first morning we weren’t so sure about Paklenica, by evening, we were in love.

Starigrad is not the postcard seaside village of Croatia, there is no colorful bay, no fishing boats in a small harbor and no cute, quant little village. It is touristy but in an old school, traditional, authentic village kind of way. It is not expensive, camping is about €6/person, hotels top out at about €45/person, restaurant prices are reminiscent of Europe 10 years back. But here too you can stroll town with a gelato, get seafood fresh from the fishing boats, sit in a bar with other climbers and, best of all, easily pedal your bike to the crag where a small store provides gelato and drinks just 3 minutes from the start of the climbing walls.

Topping out on Anica Kuk

Paklenica National Park itself is all about big, limestone walls, deep canyons, hikes to 1800 meter peaks from sea level, and a lush forest with a hut system. The star attraction being Anica Kuk, a 350 meter wall of impeccable limestone with over 100 multi pitch routes of all grades. As one enters the park, the canyon narrows and immediately both sides form perfect climbing walls with countless routes from 5a to 8a. For the beginner-intermediate climber, it is paradise as there is an abundance of routes from 5a-6b, all well bolted with bomber anchors. It is very user friendly.

Starigrad Lodging

As you enter town it will become immediately obvious that lodging will not be a problem. There are many campgrounds, hotels and private rooms in homes (look for the word Sobe in Croatian). The campgrounds are very user friendly with, quite possibly, the cleanest bathrooms I have seen. We stayed at the seaside campground on the south end of town, Paklenica Camping, our car was a 4 second walk from swimming in the Adriatic, there is a bar and Bancomat in camp and the staff is super friendly and informative.

We also checked into the Hotel Vicko Villa for a few nights; 4 star, free Wi-Fi, great breakfast, super friendly, fantastic seaside position. €45/person.

Getting Around Starigrad and Paklenica

A bike is the absolute ideal form of transportation. We parked our car and never touched it for a week. From the center of Starigrad to the climbing is only 15 minutes on the bike, slightly uphill, but not steep. In the evening, it is a refreshing, fantastic end to the day as you coast into town and the gelato stand. At the road’s end in the Park there is a bike storage area.

Paklenica National Park Logistics & Climbing Info

> There is one primary entrance to the Park on the south end of Starigrad. Each day you must pay to enter, it is 40 Kuna per person (€5.50). Be sure to ask about multiple day passes.

> There is a small store within the park, 5 minutes from the parking and right at the beginning of the climbing area. A well with drinking water is found on the trailside about 10 minutes uphill from the main climbing area.

Big gear, or little person?

> Near the Park entrance from the main road is a climbing shop with all the necessities.

> Key Climbing Website for organizing a trip, visiting and climbing in Paklenica is Climb Croatia. There is a good Climbing Guidebook readily available throughout Starigrad, recommended.

> Climbing: The climbing is sport, with big, new bolts. Anchors are single massive rings or chains. For the easiest classic route on Anica Kuk, the 5c Mosoraski,some crack gear may be appreciated depending on your level and comfort running it out. A 60 meter rope is pretty much mandatory. Climbing style is classic limestone; pockets, tufa, greasy if a popular route, but always well equipped and on perfect rock. Some routes have small tags with name & grade at the bottom, but most do not. A guidebook is helpful.

> Language: Many locals speak English, but perfect German and Italian are also spoken.

What else to do in Starigrad?

Exploring Starigrad's coastline

> Cycling: Cruise the coastline north and check out some of the the sleepy little villages. Croatian coastal roads are an ideal combination of perfect asphalt, stunning scenery and no cars. A trail system is being developed that parallels the coastline on the edge of the park, we didn’t do it, but info is available at the tourist office.

> Hiking: Get an early start and hike up to the highest peaks. Sea level to 1760 meters, you’ll cross numerous zones en route to some great views. The Paklenica Hut, about 2 hours from the parking lot, offers lodging. 20 minutes below is also a small hut providing food and drink during the day. And 10 minutes further above is the small, incredibly friendly Ivancev Dom, also offering lodging.

> Take an evening trip to Zadar (45 minutes in car) and stroll the ancient town. Do not miss the seaside walk along the city walls where you will find a series of man made blow holes in the stone that create music based on the waves frequency as they hit the wall.

> Stop at a roadside fruit & veggie stand and stock up on tomatoes (consistently the best) and especially the figs – the sweetest, most flavorful we have ever had.

The Paklenica Hut

Ivancev Dom, Paklenica National Park

When to visit Paklenica?

I had mixed reports on this one (some said all year, others the spring and fall) but basically decided: April – early July then again September & October. We went in mid June and the temps were certainly high in town, but okay for climbing in the shade. The mid-day descent off Anica Kuk was something I wouldn’t be in a hurry to repeat. Thankfully, the many pools in the canyon’s river provide perfect swimming. And of course having a bath-like Mediterranean is quite wonderful.

Summary

Croatia is a special place, while very European, it is a bit of a step into something more gentle, less hectic. Everything is there as in Europe, but so too something from the past that gives it a unique feeling. It is a place one can spend a great deal of time and not feel like life is rushing by.

And the climbing… it is not so common that I have said, “That was one of the best routes I have ever done.” but in Paklenica… over and over again throughout the day.

As we only scratched the surface of things to do, in addition to the well written Lonely Planet Croatia guidebook, these websites are helpful:

Paklenica National Park |  Croatia Travel |  Find Croatia

Finally, Dubrovnik is a few hours south and undoubtedly one of Europe’s greatest destinations, it is well worth 2-3 days all on it’s own. Do not miss it.

Paklenica local

VN:F [1.9.15_1155]
Rating: 5.0/5 (6 votes cast)
Share

iPhone Camera & Photo Apps

Jan 10th, 2010
by dolomitesport.
11 comments

iPhone Photo Apps for Traveling

It’s a cliche for a reason: “The best camera is the one you have with you”.

Right. In the age of iPhones and Photo Apps, you not only have a camera always at the ready, you have some very useful tools to make the images look the way you want them to look. Get to know your applications then think ahead and you can have some very cool results.

As athletes ourselves, we cannot always have a camera with us, but it is likely that we’ll have a mobile phone onboard. Thus, the extensive collection of cycling, or from the bike, shots. What I like about all of these images is that they are real; rush ahead and snap a frame as friends go by. These are true images of what we see while living our lives, not as photographers but as athletes or travelers.

All of these images were made with an iPhone and all effects were from various apps within the phone itself. We’d love to hear which is your favorite and why – thanks.

While training in Tuscany with my friend Andreas Irsara, he rode ahead on these dirt roads we were riding and snapped this photo of me with my own phone. It is one of my all time favorites. Well done Andreas, you out shot the pro!

During the same trip to Tuscany, I made this image literally while pedaling by. I knew I wanted the square, old timey effect, so I centered the group of trees so as to be able to crop later.

Janine and I on one of our countless days out mountain biking near Cortina d’Ampezzo. The Tilt Shift effect does a great job of miniaturizing the scene. You have to practice to learn when it will work and when it will not.

Andreas and I were waiting for Janine to shoot some landscape images while on a trip to Iceland.

Janine made this photo of me in the Eastern Sierra Nevada as I was riding up to meet her after she had gone for a trail run. I like the depth in the image behind me while it maintains a snapshot feel.

While riding with four Dutch friends in the Dolomites, I was frantically trying to get something exactly like this, from the bike, to show the drama of what you see while road riding in the Italian Dolomites.

Andreas Irsara mountain biking in the Alta Badia while we were scouting a video location. When we returned a week later, a huge bench had been built right where he is riding.

A Tuscan hilltop town photo made right from my bike saddle. I think Tuscany truly was made for the camera.

I love the spontaneity of this image of Janine while in Pienza, Italy

We were in India for the big news

India… It would have been a shame to have missed this one

Shot from my road bike on the dreamy, car-less roads of the Chianti Region of Italy

Late in the fall a group of friends did a huge mountain bike ride in the Dolomites, this was from a small summit we rode to the top of with endless views of the range.

This photo was one of the first I ever made with the iPhone. I was on a long mountain bike ride alone in the Dolomites and stopped at a hut to eat something when this Dohle landed on my handlebars. It is said that these mountain birds are spirits of people lost in the mountains. It hung around for awhile as if to say hello.

The Camera Apps that we use are:

Photogene

Tilt Shift Gen

Camera Bag

Photoshop Mobile

Genius

Follow us on Twitter to see more of these photos as they are made

VN:F [1.9.15_1155]
Rating: 5.0/5 (2 votes cast)
Share

Our Favorite Mountain Sport Trips

Dec 15th, 2009
by dolomitesport.
No comments yet

Janine and I get asked a lot about our favorite trips for mountain sports. While I loathe the idea of “Top Whatever Lists”, I am going to report my favorites because it is a good reason to delve into my own memories and see what has been most rewarding.

As professional mountain sport photographers, we have this massive database of photos that I must work within each day. But for us it is far more than a collection of work images, it is a collection of memories. The nature of the way we work is to photograph our experiences, not just document others. As a result, we have a visual reminder of our lives and all the things we do.

In the last ten years we have been on countless trips; climbing, skiing, running and hiking. So, which experiences stand out amongst them all, and why? Finally, can our trips inspire others to go on their own?

What are the criteria for a favorite trip? Beauty, Emotion, Landscape, Travel, Difficulty, Effort and of course the friends we share it all with. The envelope please…

In no special order, according to Dan & Janine Patitucci, the Top 5 Mountain Sport Trips are :

Skiing beneath the Gran Zebru

1. The Ortler Ski Tour, Italy

09BPhk0435

2. Hiking & Running Iceland's Laugavegur Tour

Trail running on the Tour of Mont Blanc

3. Trail Running the Tour du Mont Blanc. France, Italy, Switzerland

Evolution Traverse

4. Climbing the Evolution Traverse, Sierra Nevada, California

Alpine Climbing - Monch

5. Alpine Climbing the Berner Oberland Region's three classics: Monch, Jungfrau, Eiger. Switzerland

Now for the fun part, or parts 1 – 5, telling each story of each experience, with photos. Stay tuned.

VN:F [1.9.15_1155]
Rating: 5.0/5 (2 votes cast)
Share

Dolomite Alta Via 1 Mountain Hut Impressions

Oct 21st, 2009
by dolomitesport.
No comments yet

A trend is developing. Each time we ask someone from the USA to contribute to DolomiteSport a consistent topic seems to emerge; the mountain huts, their decadence and convenience.

This fall we helped Sue Johnston and Chris Scott make plans for hiking the Alta Via 1. When it was finished they kindly put together a story of their primary impression. The topic; the mountain hut.

Chris and Sue come from outside Ventura, California. Sue is a two time time winner of Colorado’s Hardrock Ultra as well as numerous other 100 miles races. She also holds the speed record for the John Muir Trail. More info about Sue can be read at Salomon Running or her blog’s Dolomite entry, RunSueRun.

Thanks to Sue Johnston and Chris Scott for the text below.

Rifugio Pian di Cengia

Rifugio = Mountain Hut. “Mountain Hut” usually conjures up a one room, rough hewn, log cabin hidden deep in the wilderness below a dense canopy, offering brief respite to the wandering hiker in search of flat and dry ground, a roof over one’s head, perhaps escape from persistent mosquitoes, yet maybe a mouse or two for company.  After you’ve heated your dinner and stretched your sleeping bag over the floor, and night has stolen daylight, only your headlamp reminds you of dimension within the hut’s walls.

The reality of rifugi (plural of “hut”) in the Dolomites is quite the opposite.  Think:  “this is the best aid station I’ve ever visited!” and then repeat that experience about every 10K, or in some cases, within spitting distance of the next.  Now envision the Dolomite mountain hut offering commanding views in almost every direction.  Welcome to Italy!
09BPlf0023
Rifugi dot the trail at seemingly designed intervals.  The proximity of one rifugio to the next encourages you to pack light – you’ll need only your choice of clothing for the length of your trek.  But what about food?  Since the staff at each rifugio spends its entire season there, they’ll be well fed.  If they’re well fed, you’ll be well fed, too.  This equates to a full menu of delightful treats.

Complementing the menu is beer on tap and a well-stocked bar, further enhanced by local grappas. For lack of clear translation, grappa is Italian for moonshine, only here in various flavors and colors.  As our new Italian friend suggested, “take a hit, roll the grappa across your teeth with your tongue, then breathe in quickly through bared teeth.  You’ll get snockered quicker!”  It almost worked.

Most rifugi also offer hotel-equivalent accommodations, as well; the loftier and more remote rifugi perhaps bunk beds.  On our five day hike of Alta Via 1, we survived one bunk bed group snorefest, the other nights in private rooms listening to just our own snoring.  Truthfully, even the snorefest wasn’t problematic – we were tired enough from each day’s hike that we could have slept through the finale of the 1812 Overture.  Full stomachs from dinner created a lethargy that made sleep easy; we justified the bulging stomachs as investment for the next day’s hike.

Up early for breakfast.  Salami and cheese panini for later on the trail.  Visit another rifugio down trail for more coffee.  Stop every 100 meters to take in another spectacular, breathtaking vista.  Enjoy an afternoon break for more coffee and snacks.  Then press on to make it to the day’s end rifugio in time for a warm shower, happy hour, dinner, and another night’s sleep between sheets.

Lather, rinse, repeat… for as many days as you can afford and are willing to enjoy.  The tease is to linger at any one rifugio, for each designs to keep you in the clutches of endless hospitality. Of course, avoid the tease, as more of the same awaits you at the next rifugio.  When (not if) you decide to run/hike the Alta Via 1, anticipate the rifugi pampering – you’ll re-define your standards for ultras’ aid station fare!! Hope you enjoyed reading our impressions of the Alta Via 1.

VN:F [1.9.15_1155]
Rating: 5.0/5 (2 votes cast)
Share
← Earlier Posts