Sierra Nevada: The Range of Light & Fast

FOMO —Fear Of Missing Out—I have it, in the form of an extreme case. Years ago, when we first settled in California’s Eastern Sierra Nevada, the FOMO came on strong. Living in such close proximity to so many mountain sport options, how could it not? Each day the question; Do we go alpine climbing, sport climbing, bouldering, mountain running, mountain biking, or hiking? No matter how good our choice turned out, we were always left fearing that we had missed out on something better.

Janine running beneath Keeler Needle and the Mt. Whitney Group

But with inspiration from local ultra runner Phill Kiddoo and his suggestions of “Run-a-Bagging” big backcountry peaks, our recovery from FOMO began. Each time I mentioned a classic alpine route, Phill countered with, “I’ve run that.” He was rolling all of our outdoor passions into single summer days, running into alpine areas and climbing easy ridge routes to summits. Countless granite fins, towers, massifs and ridge crests guard many peaks but most offer easy scrambling routes requiring no more than time, trail-running shoes and a caffeine buzz. In fact, California’s Sierra Nevada is a truly ideal playground for mountain sports. Its warm, dry summers with minimal thunderstorm activity means possibilities are limited not by conditions, but rather by conditioning and motivation.

Our first steps toward FOMO recuperation began over the winter, when we created a hit list of local mountain runs. Virtually every trailhead offered a worthy objective. Come late June, as the snowpack gave way to dirt and bare rock, trails re-emerged and four months of backcountry running awaited Janine and I. We were chomping at the bit, since we had put in many training miles at lower elevations and had the fever to get up high.

Running Banner Peak

Dan headed into (l-r) Ritter and Banner

Our first objective was Banner Peak outside of the ski town of Mammoth Lakes, just 40 minutes north of Bishop. There, at the Agnew Meadow Trailhead, we set out pre-sunrise, facing 20 miles round trip and 5000 feet of climbing, a glacier crossing, a narrow snow couloir and a 3^rd-class rock ridge (no rope required but some exposure) to the summit of 12,936-foot Banner Peak.

Janine’s case of FOMO is much less severe than my own; in fact, she is mostly happy wherever she finds herself. For her, running to the base of Banner Peak without packs would have been a fulfilling day. I wanted the satisfaction of reaching the summit. Janine gave in to my plan and we began sorting and packing gear, one of the great joys of Run-a-Bagging is the combination of not having to use much gear but that which you do take must be perfect, therefore careful research (shopping) must be performed.

Janine headed up the snowfield splitting Ritter and Banner from the south

Our packs were small running models, just big enough for tights, wind shirt, hat, gloves and as many energy bars and gels that we could cram in. I would later learn that some friends measured these running peaks not in miles or hours but in the number of energy-gels consumed. Janine, being Swiss, typically measures her own runs in the number of Toblerone bars she can get down before their Matterhorn-like form succumbs to the afternoon heat. We also strapped super light Kahtoola crampons to our packs for the glacier and couloir. Finally, we prefer hand bottles in the backcountry, since they are quick to fill in creeks, save weight in the pack and make great palm shock absorbers when we stumble while gawking at the views.

The trails from most Eastern Sierra trailheads are steep, but Agnew Meadows is a rolling cruise through a river canyon. We spent the first couple of miles in the dark enjoying the solitude and quiet that only pre-dawn provides. Cold, wet grass overhanging the trail quickly drenched our skinny runners’ legs and made us long for the summer sun to fill the canyon. As the black sky grew lighter, there, looking impossibly far away, rose the bulk of Banner Peak and its even larger neighbor, Mount Ritter (13,143 feet).

Glissading the Ritter Banner couloir

The specter of our objective was usurped by our immediate need—to outrun the swarming mosquitoes capitalizing on our casual pace. Much of the trail follows Shadow Creek, which flows over a series of granite shelves creating numerous waterfalls. Soon we were above tree line at the glacier, where we swapped modes from running to power hiking over the steepening snow/ice. We wore running shorts all the way up the couloir, where we caught two hikers who were also gunning for Banner Peak. It was an interesting contrast.

Us: trail-running shoes, short shorts, bright red crampons, both hands strapped to water bottles and smiles on our faces.

Them: mountain boots, full climbing attire, large packs, ice axes and smiles on their faces (or were they just laughing at us?).

“Where did you come from?” they asked.

“Agnew Meadows Trailhead,” I answered.

“And you’re here already? No way. ”

“No, really, we ran in.”

“Ran in? Why?”

“Uh, because we’re trail runners …” I decided to leave it at that and not mention the fact that we would be home by early afternoon enjoying a pale ale and plotting the next trip.

Janine and I topped out in the couloir, removed our crampons and headed up the ridge. On this section, we appreciated the versatility of modern trail shoes – especially those with sticky rubber for good grip on rock. Less than an hour of scrambling took us to the summit.

It wasn’t even noon yet, so we kicked back and had some laughs reading the bizarre, altitude-enhanced, summit-register entries as they usually involve God, “I can’t believe I made it” testimonials or something resembling an Oscar speech.

I added my own, knowing our climbing friends would be along in a few minutes. “Agnew Meadow to Banner Peak, car to car—the Sierra really is made to be the Range of Light and Fast.”

After descending the rock section we whooped down the glacier in full glissade mode. Freezing cold sections of creekside trail from the morning were now tempting swimming holes in the afternoon heat. The thought of sandwiches beat the need to cool off, and, besides, we were still embracing the joy of movement. It had been a full day and we were in love with “Run-a-Bagging.” By combining so many things we love, we had found the cure for FOMO and look forward to many years of treatment.

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DolomiteSport’s note… This article was originally written in 2004 and published in Trail Runner Magazine. Looking back, I see it truly was the beginning of a love affair with mountain running in to climb easy peaks. Countless similar trips have been done since in mountains throughout the world.

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Eastern Sierra Nevada Trail Running Resources

Basecamp

Dan cooling off in one of countless High Sierra lakes

Bishop (pop. 3800) is strategically located in the heart of the Sierra Nevada, and serves as the jumping-off point to countless trail systems, most within an hour of town.

Getting There. Bishop lies on California Highway 395 along the eastern escarpment of the range, approximately three and a half hours south of Reno and four to five hours north of Los Angeles. The town of Mammoth Lakes (40 minutes away) now has flights in and out from LA, Reno, and San Jose – check in with them for more info. Mammoth may also serve as your basecamp and is higher in elevation and much cooler than Bishop for mid-Summer visits.

Seasons. While summer days can hit 100 degrees in town, Sierra trailheads 20 minutes away can be quite chilly. July through September are the best months for mountain running.

Resources. Drop into Bishop’s prestigious running shop, Sage to Summit on Main Street for maps and trail information. Sage to Summit’s owner Karen Schwartz, is currently compiling running trail information for a soon-to-be-released guide to the Eastern Sierra.

R.J. Secor’s The High Sierra; Peaks, Passes and Trails is the bible for local hiking and climbing. Remember though: a great hiking trail may not always be suitable for running due to the surface and steepness. The book’s information is best for ascending the peak’s themselves. For running selects again, Sage to Summit is your resource.

Food and Drink. Bishop’s Black Sheep Cafe is where to get your morning buzz & carbs as well as to meet like-minded trail mammals. Evenings are best spent at the Whiskey Creek Happy Hour in downtown Bishop, or better yet, on your tailgate tucked away in some cool backcountry parking spot near a trailhead.

Sierra Tick List

Jason Hamm headed to Mt. Emerson

Bishop Area

> North Lake—Piute Pass—Mount Emerson : A great warmup for Sierra mountain running. A six-mile casual climb to Piute Pass serves as a primer for the thousand feet of talus to the summit of Mount Emerson.

> South Lake—Bishop Pass—Mount Agassiz : Running to Bishop Pass is a local tradition. Adding the northwest slope of Mount Agassiz makes it even better. An almost entirely run-able six-mile trail puts you at the base of the switchbacks to Bishop Pass, attain the col, follow the slopes where they drop onto the pass then head straight to the summit. Stunning views of the Palisade Crest await.

> Evolution Loop—North Lake to South Lake : THE Sierra classic. Replacing summits with passes, this 40- to 70-mile loop will have you seriously considering Eastern Sierra real estate. A variety of early options exist to customize the length. Choose the Lamarck Col over Piute Pass to eliminate about 25 miles. No matter what you choose you will end up running the John Muir Trail (JMT) through the Evolution Basin, arguably the Sierra Nevada’s perfect spot. Next up is Muir Pass; consider the JMT Thru-Runner’s body condition at this point—mile 100 of their 215-mile journey.

Janine running into Bishop Pass

Janine climbing Mt. Agassiz's north slopes high above Bishop Pass, 3rd class

Janine Patitucci running in the Sierra high country, Evolution Loop

> Glacier Lodge/South Fork Big Pine Creek—East Face of Middle Palisade : The choice for the mountaineer-runner. A steep trail run and cross-country travel brings you to a small glacier and the East Face of the 14,000-foot Middle Palisade Peak. Here you will curse the author at the site of the imposing wall in front of you. But really, it is 4^th class, quite safe and easy (I too was intimidated). Gain the face by the right side of the prow where it splits the glacier.

Dan Patitucci on the Shepherd Pass Trail

> Shepherd Pass—Mount Tyndall : If a remote, grueling 12-mile uphill run to a long ridge to 14,000 feet sounds like fun, this is the run for you. Shepherd Pass is known for being hard and mentally tough, as no matter how much you run, the pass never seems to get closer – I suggest starting well before first light. Luckily, it is also known for being wondrous in its alpine setting.

Mammoth Area

> Agnew Meadow—Banner Peak : As described above in the feature story, this is our favorite of the bunch. Get an early start to avoid afternoon heat when running out of the canyon.

Mountain Trail Running and Peak Bagging : Gear List

Shoes. Trail-running shoes with sticky rubber are a must. We are longtime La Sportiva fans as they have the mountain running shoe dialed in with real support, protection and sticky rubber, the combination of which is helpful for Run-a-Bagging.

Clothing. Mid summer, the Sierra are warm, hot even, but, they are mountains and as such, anything can happen. If the forecast is good, my usual set up is running shorts, light weight tights, running-T, long sleeve, thin insulated vest, super light rain shell. Of course, a beanie and gloves. Extra socks might be  good idea both for that fresh feeling and to avoid the dirt and grit rub. Thunderstorms are the threat for getting wet and cold.

Trail running packs should fit trim and tight against the back

Probably fine...?

Packs. Just large enough to accommodate food & water, clothing (see above), and map. Pack stability is important, test yours on short and long runs before you commit to a serious day. Packs can end up rubbing, causing sore necks, or, even after feeling comfortable in the shop, being hopelessly uncomfortable on hour 4. The perfect pack is out there, find it.

Hydration. We like hand-held bottles, although bladder systems work well too. Hand bottles are easily monitored,  easy to fill creekside and keep weight off your back. Sierra water may be crystal clear, but using a water filter or chemical treatment is wise. Up to you… sometimes I do, sometimes I don’t.

Calories & Salt. In recent years I have gone back to normal food when out, it is pretty tough to beat a homemade burrito. Just be sure to have a good mix of of salty and sweet. If you do bars, remember, the Sierra can be hot, choose accordingly, Larabar and Clif Bar work well. Finally, even in the High Sierra you are sweating, probably a lot— consider replacing lost electrolytes with a supplement like E-Caps.

Kahtoola crampons are great for spring ascents of high peaks, like here on Mt. Dana

First aid. Carry athletic tape and gauze for patching skinned knees, etc. For lightweight kits, check out Adventure Medical Kits. The Sierra Nevada are a high mountain range with many passes over 12,000 feet and loads of summits over 13,000. Know your limits, pay attention to headaches, don’t just treat them with drugs.

Crampons. Most routes don’t require them, but those that do will have you wanting a pair of lightweight Kahtoolas. They’re made to work on hiking and running shoes.

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Shop Mountain Gear for the best trail running shoes, clothing & training equipment

by John Stamstad, part 2

Sleep deprivation is a pretty fascinating thing. Everywhere I looked, inanimate objects were moving, even the rocks, they just kept shifting around. The big rocks looked like tents, I mean they looked exactly like tents. I would stop and go up to them, usually say, “hello is anyone home” and have to touch it before being convinced that it was rock instead of ripstop.

That night my sleep deprivation induced imaginary friends came out. I had about 4 alter egos who would help me problem solve, that way I could concentrate on running and they would take care of the other details. It sounds a little crazy to write about it now but at the time and in that state– which is like being a live character in a dream world– I didn’t think anything of it, it seemed logical. And it was actually very productive. One of them suggested that I wear the pack facing forward on my chest. I remember thinking, “Man why didn’t I think of that”. It worked like a charm for my back but the downside is when you wear your pack on the front you can’t see your feet, which means you trip a lot and have to go slowly.

These lower passes of Gladys and Ruby Lake –lower being only 10,000 ft–were warmer but going up Donahue was brutal—40mph winds and cold. There was nowhere to hide, I just had to put my head down and go. I got over the top and I really needed to sleep, this was my fifth night and I had only slept 2 hours total. I made it down to tree line but it was still way below freezing. I decided to bivy anyway. I pulled out my space bag only to find that it had ripped apart. I didn’t have much choice so I just laid down between two fallen trees for some shelter and wrapped the remnants of the bag around me like a blanket. I woke up an hour later and realized that my legs were so cold they had no feeling from the knee down. When I moved to feel them, my hands were like clubs, so numb from the cold that I couldn’t uncurl my fingers. I couldn’t even get up to walk. After a short panic attack, and a few agonizing minutes, I was able to get some circulation and movement back and I restored calm.  As soon as I could, I got moving and tried to generate some desperately needed heat.  I had 7 miles to go to Tuolumne Meadows, and as soon as I hit the warm sun I stopped and lay down on a rock…….

Behind the Scenes, part 2

by Dan Patitucci

Deep in the forest beneath the south side of Half Dome, we heard the phone ring. “I can’t believe we have service back here”, was the first thought that came to mind, much less whom would be calling, it was John. “You’re where?” …”The Tuolumne Store, I’m done, I’ll be at the store, on the side of the road, you’ll find me”.

Janine and I had run in hoping to meet John along the way so we could run out with him to the finish in Yosemite Valley. Now we were sprinting back to the car, knowing John would appreciate a timely pick up, still an hour plus drive away.

We pulled into the Tuolumne store’s parking lot right at dusk, and there, huddled amongst the boulders was a person so annihilated it could only be the result of 200 miles of running. In the shadows John lay as a dark mass, we helped him up and immediately noted the shredded shoes, filthy and torn clothing and the fact that his feet were anything but usable. “You must be ready to get out of here” I said. “I’m ready for a beer”.

A couple of hours later, after beers and fish tacos at the Mobile Mart, we pulled up to our Bishop house. John was long gone and waking him was tough, getting him out of the car harder still. Here was proof that rigor mortis is possible while alive. Once inside the house, he came up short of the bed, shorter yet to the shower, and collapsed in the armchair, displacing our cat. Once again, he was out. Here, in the light of the living room, I studied him. This was a man who had just run the John Muir Trail and had not slept much at all in 5 days. He looked the part. I have never done anything to push myself to these extremes, but I could imagine that what he felt inside his destroyed body was pure joy. I was left tremendously inspired.

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John Muir Trail Photography

To see images of the John Muir Trail, visit our great friend, and professional photographer John Dittli’s website as he has produced the definitive coffee table book on the trail.

A John Muir Trail Record Attempt

by John Stamstad, Part 1

John Stamstad

My run started four and a half days earlier on a cool evening at the Mt Whitney portal trailhead, just outside of Lone Pine, California. The John Muir Trail (JMT) goes for 200 miles and climbs almost 50,000 ft  before it crosses a road—I don’t know of many  trails in the world that can make that claim, if any—and this is in California of all places. Not only does it not cross a road, there are virtually no signs of civilization the entire way. I never saw city lights, I never heard the drone of a highway, and I don’t think I even saw a powerline. For an outdoor person, this is what heaven looks like. The trail is appropriately named after John Muir, who founded the Sierra Club and played a significant role in creating the National Park System. I think it is very fitting that the most significant point-to-point trail in the US is named after the most significant naturalist, and it is an absolute miracle that this wilderness is fairly unchanged from when Muir was exploring it in the late 1800’s. We all owe a lot to John Muir.

The Sierra Nevada’s Perfect Mountain Trail

Ready, set, go. The John Muir Trail

John Stamstad running the John Muir Trail through Evolution Basin

Behind the Scenes of Stamstad’s Record Attempt

by Dan Patitucci

“Sir, the John Muir Trail is not a day hike”.

This, from the overweight, under experienced desk ranger at the Lone Pine Ranger Office upon hearing that John did not intend to camp on the 220 mile trail. I was gagging on laughter as she went on to explain to one of the world’s best endurance athletes how the Muir Trail requires weeks of walking and camping. John, in his usual stoic way, listened patiently and politely. Finally he fessed up, “I’m running the trail, I’m not stopping, therefore I am not camping.”

The Ranger excused herself to call her supervisor. A square peg had walked in and did not fit into her round hole of bureaucratic training. To make a decision, she would need the help of a superior. A short time later she returned with newly drawn up regulations for John to read over. It stated John would not camp along the way, for if he did, he would need a bear canister. He agreed and together we exited the air conditioned building with permit in hand.

An hour later, on an unusually cold autumn evening, he stood at the Whitney Portal Trailhead seemingly unconcerned by the rapidly approaching darkness and cold night. On his back he wore a large Patagonia hydration pack bursting with high calorie foods, hopefully enough to get him to Yosemite National Park along one of the countries most demanding trails. He looked down at his watch, clicked start, said, “Cheers”, and was off. I watched him float away before turning to my car to drive home.

Two days later I woke early to get a head start on my own day. The plan was to run over Lamarck Col, through Evolution Basin and up Muir Pass where John said he would likely be passing at a specific time. The Sierra, in typical fall fashion, were spectacular and my own long day in was blissful. While heading up Muir Pass I saw a crouched figure ahead, descending awkwardly and slowly  - but nevertheless, the figure was running. It was John, exactly on schedule.

Upon connecting it became immediately apparent that he was in a bad state. His neck was killing him, his mouth was filled with sores from being stressed & eating odd foods, and of course he was utterly exhausted after running 100+ miles with no sleep, much of it over 11,000 feet. All of this in addition to having spent two nights out in well below freezing temps.

Being an unsupported attempt, I could give him nothing but encouragement. I could only watch him in his effort. It was a thing of beauty to see a man so driven to succeed. Together we ran through what is arguably the Sierra’s most beautiful valley, poor John unable to raise his head. I made some photos, told him a few jokes, and reminded him that Janine and I would be there at the end for him. Once again I watched him float away, halfway finished, and again I too turned on my own heels and ran my puny 15 miles out.  …..to be continued

Scott Jurek's foot and shoes after Western States

Now we understand why the question was continually asked of us when we recently visited the US, “Have you read Born to Run?”. Until now, the answer was, “No”.

I typically avoid such books. I don’t read any How to Do anything, avoid “Self Help” as if it were death and entirely ignore any outdoor publications. Why? 1) I don’t want to be influenced by segments of the very media I work within. And 2) A lack of soul from some of these same segments. If I am going to read something it’s going to be either a good book or some favorite blog of someone speaking from the heart. Born to Run was like both.

For me, the book spoke to my own soul by clarifying what I have been processing for many years. What do endurance sports offer than just the sports themselves? Age has introduced me to some small tidbits of wisdom, thinking about these tidbits has given me some clarity, and practicing this clarity has brought me much happiness.

I don’t want to analyze the book or quote much, if this is something you’re interested in and you haven’t already read it, just go get a copy. But, I do want to bring up something as it pertains to endurance mountain sports. It is this idea of training your soul as much as your body.

At some point in the last years my outlook on sport evolved. The idea of “sport” changed to “my life”. I get up in the morning and I go do what I do in the mountains, be it trail running, skiing, climbing or cycling. It finally struck me that this is what I had been striving for. I wanted my life, my work and my passions to all be one and the same. To live my vision of the life I chose to pursue. Amongst all this time, about 15 years, I went to the mountains 300+ days a year, and I worked hard both physically and mentally. What it has given me is an understanding of myself, how I relate to others, and a happiness within both. Born to Run speaks to this. We were meant to run, or, we were meant to push ourselves both physically and mentally, thanks to the fact that we can push ourselves.

For some people, “sport” is an art form, and mountain sports are superb for this. Through sport you express yourself. It brings out the best and the worst in you. Compete and learn even more about who you are. Pay attention and learn some things. As you practice, it becomes apparent that what you are really doing is being creative with living. When I was a fulltime rock climber in the early 90′s I read a quote by the famous Italian climber Manolo, “Climbing is the Art of Movement”. From that moment on I looked at climbing as an art form that I wanted to learn so as to be able to express my own balanced movement. It changed how I climbed and has forever influenced me in my thinking. Identify your passion and then pursue and dedicate yourself to it as an artistic expression of your being. What greater medium can there be than your very own mind and body, their health and strength? The rewards are infinite.

Endurance sports are not going to provide the answer to the Meaning of Life, but maybe they will help us, as individuals, answer some of our own questions as to the Meaning of our own Life.

Scott Jurek and Ann Trason at the Western States 100 Mile Race

Scott Jurek in the 2002 Western States 100 Mile Race

In 2002 I photographed my first Ultra Marathon, The Western States 100. What I saw was as influential as the line from Manolo. I saw what was possible by those pushing beyond supposed limits. I decided I had to experience the same things to learn something about myself.

The first location from where I had to shoot was at about mile 50. I knew Scott Jurek was leading the race and was well off the front. Having never seen a 100 mile race, I suspected the runners would slowly hobble through at only the halfway point of 100 miles and 100 degree heat. With my camera set up and ready to shoot on a long straight stretch, we waited. Finally, our spotter whistled, Scott was coming. I looked through the viewfinder and got ready to focus and fire. But when Scott came into site I quickly realized, this was something special. He was flying. Having just gone through an aid station he was eating and emitting grunts as he forced the food down. I doubt he knew we were there, we were like voyeurs into his private world. The passionate lover of human potential took over in me, instead of making photos I looked up and began screaming for him. Thankfully I managed a few shots and this one, because it is so very real, is my favorite.

Ann Trason in the 2002 Western States 100 Mile Race

The legend Ann Trason, La Bruja, in Born to Run. All of the same feelings and emotions I had for Scott were repeated when, not far behind, Ann came through. These are perhaps the greatest ultrarunners ever.

Scott Jurek after running 100 miles in a little more than 16 hours

Trek in Iceland

Iceland is one those places that will have your face pressed with enthusiasm against the window of your arriving flight. Upon descent to this small North Atlantic island, you fight to get a glimpse of what is to come. It has a reputation; poor weather, stunning landscapes, massive ice caps and Gnome-like creatures living in all the moss covering much of the island. There is something special about visiting a cold island as opposed to a more common Pacific destination.

We have now been to Iceland three times and each visit has involved the Laugavegur Tour, a 55-75km trek from the interior to the southern coast. The first visit was to hike the Laugavegur Tour, the second to run it, and the third to do other things in Iceland. And yet we still managed to return and do our favorite sections of this phenomenal tour. It is just that good.

In fact here, I will say it… The starting point to this 4-6 day trek, Landmannalaugar, is the single most beautiful place I have ever been. It is sublime. Nowhere else have I stood in such utter disbelief at the unique beauty of a landscape.

We have an entire post already dedicated to the Laugavegur Tour, and its logistics, at DolomiteSport, click here.  And, our Iceland Photo Gallery is here.

Why is it so good? It is purely unique, there is no landscape that I have seen that matches its appearance. You will look at things in nature that you have never seen before, it is an art piece. It is the painting on the art gallery’s wall that has viewers commenting, “Wow, someone was thinking outside the box when they created this”. In fact, it does look to have been created on an easel by an artist who has mastered the use of color and composition. Pastels, earth tones, and simple black & whites have been applied to graphic elements such as volcanoes, lakes, lava flows and glacier filled bays. It is a landscape that forever leaves you wanting more.

The Laugavegur Tour itself is a journey through some of Iceland’s highlights. From the Central Highland’s geothermally active start, freshly hardened lava flows, natural hot springs, boiling mud pits, sulphur vents and wandering creeks – to the southern coast’s high glacier caps and black landscape – the entire trek is fascinating, and for those interested in a trekking trip out of the ordinary, the perfect destination.

Unlike our other favorite trips, reflecting on this little outing is primarily a blur. The experience as a whole is there, but the individual components are not so sharp. Thanks to some IT Band issues, it hurt. But still, it makes the list of 5 Favorite Trips. This is why.

The south end of Mont Blanc

I knew who Topher Gaylord was but we had never met. So when he rang us in Switzerland, completely out of the blue, and asked if we would like to run the Tour du Mont Blanc with he and his wife Kim, I was surprised. Let’s see… he was risking running 150km in 3 days, with strangers. Well so were we, but I knew he and Kim often did this sort of trips while Janine and I had never done anything so long. We were the wildcards. Regardless, the answer was, “Yes”.

The Tour du Mont Blanc is just that, a trail around the highest peak in Europe, the 4808 meter Mont Blanc.

Aid Station Euro style

But the Mont Blanc massif is something even more, it is so large it sits amongst three countries, France, Italy and Switzerland. To do the trip means crossing the borders and experiencing what each culture offers, and all three are quite different. This is mountainous terrain, huge in fact with deep valley’s and high passes. The total elevation gain for the trail is roughly 8500 meters. Ouch.

The beauty of the tour, especially for running, is the hut system. Conveniently spaced, the huts offer both food and beds. It is possible to run the entire tour with little more than two water bottles, some day food and an extra layer of clothes – in other words, about 4kg max. Better yet, the three larger villages that the trail passes through come at about the thirds of the total, thus the three day push. And remarkably, each village is in a different country with its own character. Split the run into thirds or stay more nights using the huts – your call.

Ibex

Topher Gaylord is an intimidating running partner. In the 2003 inaugural Ultra Tour du Mont Blanc Race, in horrific weather, he tied for second place. For training he and Kim, who also competes, run the tour each year prior to the event to see how their fitness is. For them it was preparation for something larger, for us it was a test to see if we could do it.

So we set off the first day from Chamonix, France, arguably the world’s most spectacular town, for Courmayeur, Italy, exactly opposite Mont Blanc from Chamonix on a map. Through the morning we moved up into the alpine world which in the Alps means wide open green hillsides loaded with wildflowers. With the glaciers of Mont Blanc’s south side still high above, we were in Sound of Music terrain, perfect for running. The first huts came and went and with them coffees and torts.

Topher Gaylord running above Lac Combal. Tour of Mont Blanc

Janine descending

In the afternoon we dropped into Italy and ran alongside flowing glaciers as we steadily lost elevation on our way to Courmayeur. Toph, in training mode, blasted off and charged solo. For Kim, Janine and I, once we were above Courmayeur and the final steep descent we gave into temptation and dropped not on foot but via tram, right into Courmayeur and a Pizza al Taglio.

Once showered, we got to put our running clothes back on and go to dinner. Nothing like making a spectacle of yourself through consumption in a good Italian Restaurant while wrapped in lycra.

Toph straddling borders

The next day we had a plan. Toph wanted to check out the actual race course which differed from the true Tour. Kim and Janine wisely opted to stay on the real trail while I chose to follow Toph up a big climb before traversing into the Val Ferret and the Swiss border. My decision would be a blessing and a curse. Up we went in the early morning hours until we reached a high plateau directly above Courmayeur. There, a small hut sat alone and quiet with a thin stream of smoke rising from its chimney. We entered a dark room and were taken back in time thanks to the original nature of the hut and the people inside. An old woman approached, eyeing us and our attire. In thick dialect she informed us we were too skinny and needed to eat. Out came the tort, the butter, the yogurt and the coffee. We followed orders and ate.

Kim and Janine at a hut

Stuffed, we departed. Thick clouds were developing and our views were disappearing. But in front of us a trail unfolded that was so perfect in its singletrack “ness” that it had us hooting and hollering as if were skiing. This would later be my downfall when my enthusiasm got a reality check.

Meeting back up with Janine and Kim on the pass into Switzerland, we ran as a group until the descent to La Fouly. At this point I watched as first Toph disappeared, then Kim, and finally Janine, leaving me to hobble all the way to the Swiss holiday village of Champex. There I crawled into town and spotted the team enjoying drinks and snacks at a nice lakeside restaurant. Never have I been so glad to finish anything.

Toph opening it up on perfect singletrack, leaving Courmayeur

Toph arguing with locals about trail ethics

The final day was the opposite. We were horses and we smelled the barn. As a group we all charged full steam around the north end of Mont Blanc before dropping steeply into Chamonix Valley. A jaunt down the valley could end the trip, but instead the trail traverses back up on the western Aiguille Rouge side. There, high above town, we ran into two fully equipped backpackers, slumped over their trekking poles and still huffing and puffing from their upward progress.

“Hey guys, how’s it going?”, we queried.

Chamonix & Mont Blanc

“12 days out, and this is the last of the Tour du Mont Blanc. What are you guys doing?”

We didn’t have the heart to tell them, so instead, “Oh, just out for a run”. Obviously the trail is an entirely different experience for runners and for us, it was confirmed, we had made the right choice; super light/super fast on a trail perfect for running.

The final descent to Chamonix was one I will never forget. Once again I was off the back but at least able to run. As I neared town the sounds of nature turned to the sounds of a European tourist area, the descending trail turned into a dirt road before flattening and finally with a sharp left turn, joining one of the walking streets of Chamonix. I was thrilled to have been able to finish it up and overcome some physical problems. Toph, Kim and Janine were waiting and together the four of us strolled through town, still wearing our same clothes and tiny packs. I don’t remember what we ate that night, but I sure remember smelling the fondue as we walked through town.

Kim & Topher Gaylord with Janine Patitucci

As professional mountain sport photographers, we have this massive database of photos that I must work within each day. But for us it is far more than a collection of work images, it is a collection of memories. The nature of the way we work is to photograph our experiences, not just document others. As a result, we have a visual reminder of our lives and all the things we do.

In the last ten years we have been on countless trips; climbing, skiing, running and hiking. So, which experiences stand out amongst them all, and why? Finally, can our trips inspire others to go on their own?

What are the criteria for a favorite trip? Beauty, Emotion, Landscape, Travel, Difficulty, Effort and of course the friends we share it all with. The envelope please…

In no special order, according to Dan & Janine Patitucci, the Top 5 Mountain Sport Trips are :

1. The Ortler Ski Tour, Italy

2. Hiking & Running Iceland's Laugavegur Tour

3. Trail Running the Tour du Mont Blanc. France, Italy, Switzerland

4. Climbing the Evolution Traverse, Sierra Nevada, California

5. Alpine Climbing the Berner Oberland Region's three classics: Monch, Jungfrau, Eiger. Switzerland

Now for the fun part, or parts 1 – 5, telling each story of each experience, with photos. Stay tuned.

Dan Patitucci on the Shepherd Pass Trail

Mt. Tyndall

Clif Bar #4 and it's only 8 a.m.

With our new found enthusiasm for trail running, Mt. Tyndall was the perfect testing ground for a truly big day. While the peak does have a steep northeast face with some real climbing, all the routes were closed for Bighorn Sheep grazing. This left the long, slabby northwest face as the alternative. But first the run in, 12 miles up and over Shepherd Pass – then Mt. Tyndall for 9000 vertical feet of gain.

Our day started at 3 a.m. as we decided we did not want to look at the distances that would separate us from our goal. We chose to run Tyndall carrying little more than numerous Clif Bars, camera and water. Our decision proved wise as the day was long and our knees began a protest while descending the trail.
Tyndall is a triangular peak hidden behind its more famous neighbor, the bulky Mt. Williamson. Our preferred line was the North Rib, a 3rd class scramble on slabs piled with rubble.
Tyndall is a mountain overshadowed by its neighbor, seldom visited by anyone other than 14er baggers and yet has an amazing view in all directions but east. Its remoteness and isolated position give it a sense of being a bit more wild than other Sierra areas we visited. While we initially looked forward to it the least, it is one of the first we remember when we look back on our season.

Mt. Tyndall

Mt. Williamson

Mt. Williamson is at time closed for Bighorn Sheep grazing – skipped.

Split Mountain

The southernmost 14,000 foot peak of the Palisade Crest differs in many ways from its northerly neighbors. Rather than the typical granite of the Sierra, Split is composed of metamorphic rock of far less quality than the surrounding igneous variety.
Named for its appearance, the summit pinnacle is split in two, cleaved by a couloir that rises from bottom to top of the mountain itself.
In this couloir sits one of the Sierra’s longest ice climbs, and our objective.
Earlier in the summer Janine and I had also run into to climb Split via it’s walk up roue from the East Side. But it was the couloir that had caught my attention and I knew I had to try it.
On Thanksgiving Day my best friend Mark Leffler and I found ourselves climbing up the first pitches of the clear water ice draining from the base. A snow ramp led from the ice to a steep bulge in the couloir. A chimney on the left side exited on slabs covered in spindrift. With nightmare quality rock refusing to accept pro of any sort, Mark decided to venture onto the slab in the hopes of finding something better. Something better turned out to be worse than the rotten chimney. After desperately searching for something that did not crumble under the weight of an ice axe, Leffler opted for the down climb and a rapid exit out of the spindrift avalanching couloir.
Luckily, several hundred feet north of the couloir is another gulley though lower angled and filled with snow. This one allowed us access to the north ridge and a quick scramble to the summit.

White Mountain

We found driving the dirt roads to the parking lot more difficult than the “climb” to the summit of White Mountain.  With a variety of research work done on the mountain, White has roads crisscrossing its upper slopes. The summit path is actually a jeep trail that ends at the small summit hut.
The terrain is nothing like the Sierra, rather it is a blank and richly earth toned landscape seemingly void of life. Yet there is an entirely different ecosystem in the Whites. Bighorn Sheep and wild horses still roam the high plains, cactus can be found as ground cover and of course there are the famous Bristlecone Pines. Believed to possibly be the world’s oldest living things, the Bristlecones are passed on the drive to the parking area for the summit hike.
White may best be done as the last peak so as to look across to the Sierra and recall all the places visited and all the moments experienced. We sat out the cold afternoon of a late fall day on the summit of White Mountain and recalled all that had happened during our time in the mountains.

Janine Patitucci running out from White Mountain, behind

It turns out it was not about the climbs, or the individual peaks or even the places. Rather, it was about the experience of the project as a whole, and the friends we shared it with.
Our lives changed as a result of getting to the tops of all these peaks, committing to such a project set us on our path which has become a career doing such things. It is not overly difficult or complicated to get to any one summit, but it is something to experience them and let them teach you things previously unknown about yourself. That is the beauty of being a climber who plays in the mountains.

Logistics and Issues

Backcountry permits are required for all of California’s 14ers excluding White Mountain. For all but the Palisade and Whitney regions, permits are easily obtained at the local USFS Ranger Stations in Bishop, Lone Pine and Big Pine.
Whitney and the Palisades are a different story.
Unless you know the exact dates you wish to climb Whitney months in advance, you’ll have to apply for permits the day before your desired entry date. This means being at the Lone Pine Ranger Station at 11am sharp the day before your approach. There, you’ll stand in line as part of a lottery for the unclaimed permits and walk in registrations. You may or may not receive a permit, in which case you will have to try again the next day.
This is the only option unless you receive a permit when permits are issued the previous spring. Hardly convenient for road tripping climbers.
However, with permit in hand, you’ll be legal to stay at your destination for up to 14 days. The Rangers, it seems, prefer to protect the trailhead more than the backcountry camping areas.
Luckily, we won the lottery our first day, and scratching our heads at the non-sense of the system, we headed for the portal with our permission slips to enter public lands.

Mountain Guides

Sierra Mountain Center : Longtime California and Sierra climber and UIAGM Guide SP Parker manages one of the Sierra’s most experienced guiding services. Running into SP in the Sierra became such a common occurrence that summer that we were forced to become great, and now “old”, friends.

Mountain guides are an excellent option for those new to the area or for those less experienced climbing in serious mountain terrain.

Rene Pitscheider and Luca Tiezza

We have been working with some friends to create some tourism marketing material to promote the Dolomites for trail running and mountain biking. A collaborative video project showing off the region’s offerings is in the works and will be ready to post this coming winter. Our goal with this new image collection is to really show off the Dolomite’s trails, landscape, and exactly what awaits the visiting mountain sports athlete. Stay tuned for upcoming new services from friends and partners of DolomiteSport – much is in the works.

For now, PatitucciPhoto’s stills from the last week. Follow us on Twitter at DolomiteSport

Oskar Irsara

Raffaella Rungger and Oskar Irsara

Raffaella Rungger and Oskar Irsara

Raffaella Rungger and Oskar Irsara

Raffaella Rungger and Oskar Irsara

Rene Pitscheider and Luca Tiezza

Rene Pitscheider and Luca Tiezza

Rene Pitscheider and Luca Tiezza

Rene Pitscheider and Luca Tiezza

Rene Pitscheider and Luca Tiezza

Our favorite trail running shoe for the year is a no brainer – La Sportiva’s Crosslite.

On first appearance it appears to be a racing flat, minimalistic cushion and support, aggressive sole, not much to it – but no, it is so much more. How they pack so much comfort into such a lightweight shoe is a mystery.

Crosslite’s aggressive tread is structured as tall knobs – which, combined with just enough heel cushioning seems to allow for the knobs to flex along with the heel – providing for a soft heel strike, and perfectly so. The shoes are the most stable I have run in, my weak right ankle loves the low profile and form fitting design.

On top of the laces is an elastic band that keeps the shoe wrapped around the foot – not the foot inside a shoe, but a shoe around a foot. Yes, it makes a difference.

When we first got these shoes from La Sportiva we thought we would only use them for uphills, and shorter, fast trail runs. Truthfully, we were hesitant to use them on the longer, super rocky Dolomite trails as we feared there would not be enough cushion for a long day. But after running all summer in them we have decided that they are perfect for most everything, in fact I recently ran two hours into an alpine peak, climbed a 3000 foot fourth class ridge – and then charged down and out. It was the ideal shoe – and it seems to be due to the form fit, low profile and knobby tread.

La Sportiva’s  major winner is the Crosslite.