For about six years we made feeble attempts to get to Norway’s Lyngen Alps. A combination of not really understanding the logistics combined with our timing being off and/or the trip & lodging we wanted being full all added up to putting it off. Finally in March 2011 we made it and happily found it was worth the effort. It is a somewhat confusing area to research, but once there it all becomes clear. Hopefully this post will help make sense of it all prior to a visit.

As usual, our travel plans and itinerary are shaped by photoshoots, this was no exception. We were there to make some specific types of ice climbing photos. While we had always dreamt of the “Stay on a Boat” option, for this trip we needed to stay on land and with a car for mobility. Ice climbing and backcountry skiing were the focus. So, together with our friend, and pro climber, Kurt Astner, off we went.

Google “Lyngen Alps”, “Norway Skiing”, or any other combo of such and you are likely to get the Lyngen Lodge as your top hit. We did, and so we contacted them. It took forever to get a response, and when we finally did it was, “all full, all season”. We began to notice that there really are very few other lodging options with the exception of the Magic Mountain Lodge in Lyngseidet. An email went out, minutes later we had an answer, “available”. We booked and this turned out to be a blessing in disguise.

Lyngseidet from the Magic Mountain Lodge

Getting to the Lyngen Alps is easy; Fly to Norway (Oslo) and connect via another flight to Tromsø, rent a car, drive 2 hours and you are there. The driving part is easy, beautiful, and awe inspiring if it’s during the day. For us it was a white knuckle, pitch black drive through a howling blizzard. Tromsø, being a hip and interesting city is well worth a visit. If you arrive in the evening, consider an overnight stay.

We arrived to the Magic Mountain Lodge at about midnight and were very ready for our long travel day to end. Once there we walked into my dream world. For countless years I have dreamt of running a hotel in a great location that caters to mountain sport athletes – here it was. The couple (Patrik & Henrika) running the show were instantly welcoming, accommodating and new friends.

I asked Patrik for a beer, if possible something local. From behind the bar he pulled out three talls. “These are Macks, the world’s northernmost brewery”. He popped the tabs. “Also the most expensive”, he grinned. Gulp. We sipped, and then we gulped the beers. Superb, but yes damaging to the wallet.

As I always say about so many things, “It is all about the people”. This was never more true than with our stay at Magic Mountain Lodge.

Skiing in the Lyngen Alps

The blessing in disguise turned out to be the location. It always takes a visit to figure out how best to experience a mountain area, and one visit to the Lyngen Alps makes it clear that the best location to base yourself is indeed, the town of Lyngseidet. The fjords, while great, are mightily inconvenient for getting around as the roads take you in and out of every inlet. Of course there is the ferry, but it is time consuming as well, expensive and you must still drive. The primary area to ski in the Lyngen Alps, and the area you will look at and say, “Let’s go there” is directly accessed from the village of Lyngseidet. The Lyngen Lodge is located on the opposite side of the fjord, in much smaller mountains and requires traveling by boat over to the main area for skiing. One reason to stay on the opposite side is simple – the view is superb. But if you want to get up in the morning and go skiing with as little commute as possible, stay in Lyngseidet.

Where snow meets the sea

Another option is to stay on one of the many charter boats. These are large, comfy, liveable boats (small ships in some cases) that travel the fjords and dock or anchor close to the next days ski objective. We saw them everywhere, one day dropping off all 30 skiers on a beach and then heading up on skis behind us. We spoke to the guests and they reported a great time, although the rocking boat made some less than comfortable. Some operations offer much smaller groups for friends with guides. Or, join in on one the big boats and make new friends. Certainly a cool option.

Skiing to the beach from high in the Lyngen Alps

What to expect of the Skiing

Our trip was mid March and we found it to be superb. Two different thoughts seem to exist on when to go. The dead of winter for powder skiing, amazing light, and the likelihood of seeing the Aurora Borealis. Then there is the spring for longer days and still generally great skiing. We found the skiing to be as unique as the overall experience. As the approaches begin at the beach, the first few hundred meters up was often in slop that would put “Sierra cement” to shame. Then suddenly, like a line drawn, it would all change to powder. When it changed to a crust, we were still able to find powder skiing on the right aspect. Depending on where you go, you will start on the beach, skin through a brief forest, pop into alpine terrain and perhaps travel on glaciers on your way to a couloir, summit or high plateau. Your descents often put you right back on the beach – where else do you get to ski to the beach?

Hiring a Mountain Guide

Given that I said skiing in the Lyngen Alps will all make sense once you get there, it will not be a guarantee that you will go to the right places for the best skiing or be tuned into the avalanche conditions. We saw pretty quickly that the avalanche risk can be high in these parts, and that like all mountain areas, the Lyngen Alps have their own set of rules. Our friend Kurt is a UIAGM Guide, and together we discussed and researched each day’s plan. We found good snow and stayed out of trouble. But, we saw the opposite for some visitors. If you are interested in getting a guide, check in with the crew at the Magic Mountain Lodge as we did meet some local UIAGM Guides who would stop in for an evening beer.

Lyngen Alps Ice Climbing 

One of the reasons we were in Norway was to shoot ice climbing with Kurt Astner. Kurt is one of the best ice climbers in the world and a former Italian National Champion. His intention was to seek out new lines and new ice falls that he had heard about through friends. He did just that. If climbing some ice while on a ski trip is your thing, it is certainly possible in this area. I won’t pretend to offer advice, only to say there is a lot of nice, primarily on the east side of the fjords from the Lyngen Alps and easily accessed by car from the ferry at Olderdalen.

Interested to see the images we made, and a video of how we made them? Visit : PatitucciPhoto Norway Ice Climbing.

Kurt Astner on a new line outside Olderdalen, Norway

Interested in following what we do, as we do it, via your favorite Social Media:

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What is the Dolomite’s Sella?

An incredible amount of activity literally surrounds what is arguably the Dolomite’s true heart, the Sella Group. Rising like an island in a calm sea, the Sella is an enormous, 9 kilometer wide freestanding massif. With its tiered layers, towers, couloirs and mostly flat top, it has been nicknamed the “Wedding Cake”. Dropping away beneath it are four deep valleys; Val Gardena, Val Badia, Val di Fassa, and Valle di Livinalongo. The highpoint, Piz Boe is 3152 meters yet directly beneath it is the village of Arabba at 1605. Simple math reveals some serious relief. No matter how many times I stare at the Sella new features appear; towers, jagged ridges and straightline couloirs.

Sellaronda Mountain Bike Tour, descending Pordoi to Canazei

In the winter it is famous for its steep couloirs (Skiing in the Kingdom of Couloirs) while in the summer, it is a buzz with activity around it, for a network of roads and trails circumnavigate the massif, each plummeting into the three valley’s before rising again to passes before the next drop. Do one of its many loops and you’ll have an endless display of sublime beauty. And it is these loops around the Sella that attracts diverse athletes from around the world.

The Sellaronda is a venue. I have raced around it a number of times in the Maratona dles Dolomites, which circles it as the road race’s first segment. Also, the Sellaronda Ski Marathon does even more vertical on skis as it dramatically drops all the way into each surrounding valley. Coming in 2011 is a brutally difficult trail running race similar in torturous design as the famous ski race. Finally, there is the Sellaronda Hero Race , one of Europe’s most difficult races, which gives cross country mountain bikers an opportunity to suffer around the bulk of the massif. But for the visiting mountain biker, there is now opportunity to do the Sellaronda in its entirety using lifts for the climbs so as to spend a very full day of downhilling. Easy? Read on.

Alta Badia Sellaronda Start

In my opinion, the perfect start (if you do the more classic clockwise tour) for the Sellaronda is the Alta Badia and the village of La Villa. This is not so much for how it starts but for how it finishes (the last stretch into Corvara is bliss at day’s end, read on). That said, being on top of the Piz La Ila after first tram is a great place to spend your morning with the sunrise illuminating the towering Sassongher in stunning light. From Piz La Ila, rolling hills lead to Piz Sorega before some perfect single track twists through lush forests down to the Campolongo Pass, and here begins the long drop to Arabba.

Sellaronda Mountain Bike Tour, entering the forest above Corvara

Arabba to Passo Pordoi

From Arabba the Porta Vescovo tram is ridden 800 meters up. Exit tram and spend some time staring at the Dolomite’s biggest mountain, the Marmolada sits unobstructed directly south of the tram station. One of the Dolomites few remaining glaciers still coats the north side of the mountain. Keep moving, you have a long way to go…

A loose, dirt road leads you down to the beginning of one of the longest sections of singletrack on the whole tour. Once on the singletrack, you’ll roll west until it intersects the Passo Pordoi road, here squishy mountain bikes with low saddles join their road bike brethren for about 1km until the top of the Pordoi.

Andreas, inside the tram, impressing the tourists, irritating the tram operator

Passo Pordoi to Canazei

Time for a valley switch and the descent to Canazei, this is possibly the best piece of singletrack on the tour. Stop midway for a lunch break at Hotel Lupo Bianco, a four star hotel with a unique menu loaded with specialty pastas and polenta. But don’t linger too long, again, you have a long way to go… Once in Canazei, head through the village to the bike path for the neighboring village of Campitello and the Col Rodella tram.

DolomiteBiking Guides Klaus and Andreas Irsara

Sella Pass to Selva Gardena

Exit the Col Rodella tram and drop towards the Sella Pass. Once roadside a singletrack trail leads through the forests where you can jump off trail and surf the perfectly smooth grassy slopes of the ski runs – descend 1000 meters to Selva Gardena (Wolkenstein).

Sellaronda Mountain Bike Tour, beginning the final descent. Passo Gardena to Alta Badia

Val Gardena to Corvara, Alta Badia

In Selva, the Dantercepies gondola is taken to the Passo Gardena before the final 600 meter drop back to the Val Badia. Again, the descent starts on flowing singletrack which ends at a small trail side waterfall on the north side of the valley. Here begins one of the most pleasant gently rolling trails in all of the Dolomites, a perfect leg stretching, brake cooling end to an unforgettable day. Bike paths lead all the way back to the starting point in La Villa.

Sellaronda Facts

Clockwise

Time : 5 hours – All day

Length : 58km

Total Vertical : 3400 meters

Total Climbing : 500 meters

Counterclockwise

Time : 6 hours – All day

Length : 53km

Total Vertical : 3000 meters

Total Climbing : 1150 meters

Languages : Three… Ladin, German, and yes, Italian, will be spoken throughout the tour.

Difficulty : Intermediate to Advanced – with good brakes and basic mountain biking skills, you’ll get around. Comfort on steep, loose terrain is a must.

Of course it is possible to do the mountain bike loop under your own power, without lifts. How long does this take? Klaus Fontana, winner of the 2010 race which is even longer with 4200 meters of climbing, did it in less than 5 hours. Do not consider this a benchmark.

Signs exist, but not for all trails

Now that you are sold, here is the important stuff. As of this writing, it is required to take a guide on this tour. Don’t think about trying it without or you won’t be getting on any lifts with your bike. This is to insure you stay on the mountain bike trails and not venture onto hiking paths. I can guarantee that without a guide you will not find the best singletrack anyway, so.. a guide it is. Plus, you’ll have a million questions about everything you are looking at. It is paradise, maximize what you do.

Note : Check your brakes, a guide friend said that modern disc brakes, brand new, are good for about four Sellarondas – this pretty much says it all. Corvara, Canazei and Selva all have great bike shops in case you need service.

Inside the Campitello tram station, about to begin another long "climb"

Dolomite Mountain Bike Guiding Services

Our closest friends are the guys at DolomiteBiking.com – this is a local group of certified mountain bike guides all from the region and based in the Alta Badia. They are responsible for us having the great experience seen in these photos.

The final descent to Corvara in Alta Badia, like I said... Bliss

Wool vs. Synthetics

Over the years I have worn a lot of synthetic clothing. For whatever reason I am drawn to sports which synthetics seem well suited, typically in the form of lycra or spandex. Cycling, nordic racing, running, ski rando racing, etc… my games, all wrapped in lycra.

But then a few years back we started doing much of Smartwool’s advertising photography, at which time the Creative Manager started pushing wool on me. I politely dodged the idea and carried on with my own beliefs in syntheticism. I think it’s my road biking background that tainted me. Wool is something Eddy Merckx wore – in the 70’s… In my mind, we evolved into, uh, plastic clothing. Expensive plastic clothing! It pills, stinks, melts to your skin when you crash and has inconsistent performance. Did I mention it is made from oil?
Finally, as I seem to be kind of off the back with the trend, I decided to try the wool thing. The Smartwool Creative Manager, who has since become a friend, sent me a big box of fun hats, gloves and baselayers (Thanks!). I agreed to use it and review it – but the policy holds – I speak my mind.

Boot packing with the Lightweight Zip and a Microweight T

Reviews are subjective – is the reviewer someone you are willing to listen to? Brief Resume: I have close to 100 days skiing the backcountry each season and am in the mountains 320+ days each year – I have 23 years in the Outdoor Industry as both a professional photographer and athlete.

Smartwool : The Facts (as I see them)

Performance: I have primarily been using Smartwool’s Micro and Lightweight baselayers, both have a wider range of comfort than what I am used to in synthetics, meaning they keep me warm in the cold temps but not too warm when the temps increase. The feel is one of the things I like best, the Merino wool feels like cotton but performs as needed for temperature regulation and breathability.
Wicking/Drying: Wool suffers a bit from sweating, it does stay wet longer. But, it doesn’t feel clammy against the skin. Also, I found that as long as the layering system is not too far out of its temperature range, and gets some airflow, the wool will dry quickly.
Stink Factor: Unrivaled… Smartwool does not stink, no matter how hard I tried, and oh did I try, it just doesn’t stink, even the socks. Some of that 100 days in the backcountry were consecutive, without washing. Friends appreciated the switch to wool, many have switched themselves on stink factor alone.
Criticism?: I would like to see more sporty designs for athletes. Tighter fitting with more elastic that allows the sleeves to be pushed up without then becoming baggy. Also, designs incorporating different weights and materials into a paneled performance piece. Finally, for the baselayers; some stripes, accents, something! I don’t see this stuff as underwear, in many ways it is technical clothing, I want it to look the part.

Smartwool's Merino is undoubtedly more comfortable and cozy

Smartwool Summary

The Merino wool that Smartwool uses is the best feeling material against my skin. Wool seems to have a wider comfort range than synthetics but still, for high exertion activities it is important to not over layer. Get to know the systems and the temperature range they work within. And the socks? Simply the best, they last forever and maintain a snug, cozy fit.

Best of all, wool supports my firm belief that all things natural are best. I am sold.

Want to see more photos from the Italian Dolomites and our recent Smartwool Shoot, click here.

Support Smartwool, it keeps sheep employed Globwooly

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Visit Smartwool’s fun site complete with many photos from PatitucciPhoto

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Disclaimer : In no way has PatitucciPhoto/DolomiteSport been paid to do this Review, it was our idea based on being happy with the product.

Scott Jurek's foot and shoes after Western States

Now we understand why the question was continually asked of us when we recently visited the US, “Have you read Born to Run?”. Until now, the answer was, “No”.

I typically avoid such books. I don’t read any How to Do anything, avoid “Self Help” as if it were death and entirely ignore any outdoor publications. Why? 1) I don’t want to be influenced by segments of the very media I work within. And 2) A lack of soul from some of these same segments. If I am going to read something it’s going to be either a good book or some favorite blog of someone speaking from the heart. Born to Run was like both.

For me, the book spoke to my own soul by clarifying what I have been processing for many years. What do endurance sports offer than just the sports themselves? Age has introduced me to some small tidbits of wisdom, thinking about these tidbits has given me some clarity, and practicing this clarity has brought me much happiness.

I don’t want to analyze the book or quote much, if this is something you’re interested in and you haven’t already read it, just go get a copy. But, I do want to bring up something as it pertains to endurance mountain sports. It is this idea of training your soul as much as your body.

At some point in the last years my outlook on sport evolved. The idea of “sport” changed to “my life”. I get up in the morning and I go do what I do in the mountains, be it trail running, skiing, climbing or cycling. It finally struck me that this is what I had been striving for. I wanted my life, my work and my passions to all be one and the same. To live my vision of the life I chose to pursue. Amongst all this time, about 15 years, I went to the mountains 300+ days a year, and I worked hard both physically and mentally. What it has given me is an understanding of myself, how I relate to others, and a happiness within both. Born to Run speaks to this. We were meant to run, or, we were meant to push ourselves both physically and mentally, thanks to the fact that we can push ourselves.

For some people, “sport” is an art form, and mountain sports are superb for this. Through sport you express yourself. It brings out the best and the worst in you. Compete and learn even more about who you are. Pay attention and learn some things. As you practice, it becomes apparent that what you are really doing is being creative with living. When I was a fulltime rock climber in the early 90′s I read a quote by the famous Italian climber Manolo, “Climbing is the Art of Movement”. From that moment on I looked at climbing as an art form that I wanted to learn so as to be able to express my own balanced movement. It changed how I climbed and has forever influenced me in my thinking. Identify your passion and then pursue and dedicate yourself to it as an artistic expression of your being. What greater medium can there be than your very own mind and body, their health and strength? The rewards are infinite.

Endurance sports are not going to provide the answer to the Meaning of Life, but maybe they will help us, as individuals, answer some of our own questions as to the Meaning of our own Life.

Scott Jurek and Ann Trason at the Western States 100 Mile Race

Scott Jurek in the 2002 Western States 100 Mile Race

In 2002 I photographed my first Ultra Marathon, The Western States 100. What I saw was as influential as the line from Manolo. I saw what was possible by those pushing beyond supposed limits. I decided I had to experience the same things to learn something about myself.

The first location from where I had to shoot was at about mile 50. I knew Scott Jurek was leading the race and was well off the front. Having never seen a 100 mile race, I suspected the runners would slowly hobble through at only the halfway point of 100 miles and 100 degree heat. With my camera set up and ready to shoot on a long straight stretch, we waited. Finally, our spotter whistled, Scott was coming. I looked through the viewfinder and got ready to focus and fire. But when Scott came into site I quickly realized, this was something special. He was flying. Having just gone through an aid station he was eating and emitting grunts as he forced the food down. I doubt he knew we were there, we were like voyeurs into his private world. The passionate lover of human potential took over in me, instead of making photos I looked up and began screaming for him. Thankfully I managed a few shots and this one, because it is so very real, is my favorite.

Ann Trason in the 2002 Western States 100 Mile Race

The legend Ann Trason, La Bruja, in Born to Run. All of the same feelings and emotions I had for Scott were repeated when, not far behind, Ann came through. These are perhaps the greatest ultrarunners ever.

Scott Jurek after running 100 miles in a little more than 16 hours

Ski Rando Racing in Europe | by Nina Silitch

Nina at the Pierra Menta World Cup

I grew up alpine ski racing on the hard packed slopes of Sugarloaf/USA in Maine and then quickly switched to Nordic skiing while at Dartmouth College, more because I think I was tired of freezing my tail off at the top of the start box in sub zero temps in my GS suit. Always a sucker for a new challenge, I took up telemark skiing in 1992. This free heel fix stuck with me for 12 years, really until I moved to the Alps. Then my husband said to me, “you really should try randonee skiing, it is what they do here in the Alps. I have seen more Americans come over to do the Haute Route (Chamonix-Zermatt ski tour) on their tele skis and be miserable. Not because they are not good skiers, but because the snow can be very tricky on descents and days are long and the legs just get spent.” So I took his words of wisdom, got myself a mid fat rando set up with Fritschi freeride bindings and women’s Scarpa magic boots. I was good to go for my first Haute Route in 2003.
So you are probably wondering…did you like it? Did you miss telemarking? For me, I thought… I could never make the switch. Well, I did love it. It took a little while to get used to the feeling of not being locked down, but soon I got used to it and loved the feeling of carving on groomed trails and floating through fresh powder. I was hooked and ready for the new challenge of randonnee skiing.

Ski Mountaineering? Ski Running?

What do you call it? Here in the Alps we call it randonee skiing. Also known as ski touring, or ski mountaineering or ski alpinisme or rando racing. I must say I have never heard it called “ski running” but hey, maybe that is a new word that is taking off somewhere in the world. The cool thing is that the sport is taking off worldwide. Sure, the sport has its roots in the Alps with the Swiss, Italians and French, but also with the smaller Alpine countries as well. In the US, it is still a very young sport. One could compare it to mountain biking when it first started in the US and look at it now. It is going gangbusters!
This is a sport that appeals to all levels of skiers. Racers or non racers. The Swiss do a great job of encouraging everyone when they host races and this same movement is taking off in the US. There are often A courses and B courses. The B, also known as the “fun pop” category is typically done on heavier gear. The A course is the lighter weight race division also with more distance and elevation gain. In the US, Pete Swenson, director of the United States Ski Mountaineering Association and also director of the COSMIC rando race series is very aware of the need to draw in more people into the race rando scene and working hard to grow the sport.

Nina on a boot pack section

The sport is not yet an Olympic Sport but is on the docket to be in the Olympics in 2018 if all goes well. The bottom line, it needs to grow exponentially worldwide. The sport will not become an Olympic sport if there are only the alpine countries competing. We need to grow the sport in the US and other smaller nations to show that more countries are present. This year the World Championships will take place in Andorra. Already there are many new countries that will be present, including the US and Canada but also Korea, China, Japan, Portugal, Greece, and Russia, just to name a few. We are calling all youth!!! Parents we need your help! Give it a try. Start a local club. Youth 14 and up can race, but the younger ones can certainly ski tour. I was just at a World Cup in the Dolomites and there were children from the local ski club, around the age of 10, cruising around in the their ski touring set ups cheering people along! What a great opportunity to give to your kids! Kids who have alpine raced or are strong skiers as well as kids with a Nordic background are perfect candidates for the sport.

Nina kickin' it to a Podium finish at Mt Saxonnex

In fact, that is how I fell in love with the sport: it combines, endurance of cross country skiing/ running/ hiking, the thrill of technical mountaineering, and the speed of alpine skiing. The transitions that take place throughout a course make it an exciting way to travel through our alpine mountain playground. What a stellar combination!

The national teams for the majority of the countries such as Switzerland, France, Spain, Italy, and Austria are all nationally subsidized. This covers the cost of travel, race entry, equipment and national team gear. Some of these athletes are members of the army and are actually paid to train. Not a bad deal, eh? The United States Ski Mountaineering Association is desperately seeking a big sponsor to help the athletes reach their goals and cover their costs. At the moment all athletes are responsible for everything out of pocket. Any ideas on this would be greatly appreciated.

Surely, racing is not for everyone, and when I started I did not race at all, but enjoyed solely the pleasures of touring in the sunshine, a break at a pass with a thermos of hot tea, a good salami sandwich and some good ol’ Swiss chocolate. While living in Switzerland I did my first night event, an uphill race on heavy touring gear. These races were held at local ski areas, starting around 7pm after work and always followed by a traditional Swiss raclette or fondue. You were guaranteed great ambiance, people of all levels keen to get a good workout and a nice meal in good company. I forged along in my heavy gear (in the US, I would be in the heavy metal category) while snowshoers and elite light weight people whizzed passed me. Finally I fulfilled my husband’s quota of 6 races on heavy gear and I got to invest in some lighter skis and bindings. After that I felt like I was flying on my skis! Really it does make a world of difference.

The night uphills led to a little more each year for me. The winter after my 2nd son was born (2007) I was hooked and wanted to do more. There were team races in 2 or 3 person teams, individual races up and down in off piste and stage races over a period of 4 days. Now, 5 years later since my 1st uphill race, things are different. When I go out for my ski it is often not for a casual tour, but I have a goal for the workout – maybe an endurance session or intervals or recovery depending on the training for the day. This season my goals are: the World Cup circuit, with many races in the Italian Dolomites, as well as on the volcanic Mt Etna in Sicily, the World Championships in Andorra, the famous French Pierra Menta stage race and lastly the famous Swiss ski mountaineering race, the Patrouille des Glacier.

Nina, Lyndsay and Tara at the finish of the 2008 Patrouille des Glaciers- in our Crazy idea suits- very flashy -designed by Valerie Coltera who has a great eye for keeping the feminine style to a suit

Women and Ski Mountaineering

Nina making her way through a boot-pack section of a World Cup with the Mont Blanc range in the back ground. Here you can see her race set up: Ski Trab Duo Race Aero skis, Swix CTS2 carbon poles, Pierre Gignoux carbon boots, Petzl helmet, Dynafit pack and Women's Roxy goggles from Eyeshop

Like all mountain sports there are not many women in the sport of ski mountaineering but I hope I can help change that. I hope that through my example, I can help empower women to get out and enjoy the mountains by taking on a new challenge of their own, like ski mountaineering. This year I helped found the Chamonix Ski Alpinsme section, a new section of the Chamonix Club. Already we have 25 members, 8 of which are women. We have some beautiful race suits made by Texner- we will be in the hottest pink suits on course!
If you are going for a touring set up that is lightweight but also will carve some great turns down, consider: Ski Trab Freerando Light Skis, Dynafit speedlight bindings and Garmont women’s endorphin boot. My friend Meg is new to ski mountaineering and wanted a lighter set up, she loves the endurance of skinning, but still enjoys making the turns on the downhill. Her goals this season are doing some longer ski tours, but she may race the occasional uphill race.

My race set up:
Ski Trab World Cup Race Aero skis with Dynafit titanium race bindings, Pierre Gignoux carbon boots, Swix CTS2 carbon poles with a biathlon grip. I am now racing with a CAMP pack and have a Petzl helmet. I have one of the lightest set ups around, but I am racing 1-2 times a week.
There are some great suits out there for women. There are a few race suits made by Crazy Idea- very sexy and beautifully designed by a women. Another great women’s line is Wild Roses- For Women by Women- They know how to make technical, feminine and functional clothing for the mountains.

I love the sport of ski mountaineering and I hope to share my passion for it with others. Of course I would like to help the sport grow in the US and worldwide so it can reach the Olympics. Surely, it is not easy raising two young boys, running a household, training at an elite level and working on the side. In fact it is very challenging at times, but the rewards are huge and make it all worth the effort. For me, it is not so much about being a super mom, but to be a great role model for my children and to share with them what they can attain in their dreams if they work hard. I hope that our story can inspire some of you to follow your own dreams or at least get out and try ski mountaineering! Thanks for reading.

Nina training for the Engadine ski marthon in Switzerland. Really, there is a baby in that pulk, maybe even a future ski olympian

Nina Silitch Bio

Nina is a member of the US Ski Mountaineering Team. She helps raise awareness for good health through sport and gives back to the community through philanthropy. She is the Vice President of the Chamonix Ski Alpinisme Club. She lives in Chamonix, France with her husband and UIAGM mountain guide, Michael Silitch of High Alpine and their two sons.

To follow her news visit: FastSkier or Silitch Family or on Twitter .

Ski Mountaineering Introduction

Ski Running terrain, the stuff you used to dread

Let’s just start by saying that I recognize that this is not a post for every kind of skier. For whatever reason, the subject of going backcountry skiing for more than just ripping turns or dropping into steep couloirs is more than some can handle. I know thanks to a few pieces of hate mail I recently received for suggesting (here) that there may be something other than fat skis and big attitude as reason to go skiing in the mountains. That “something” was light backcountry ski gear and the idea of backcountry skiing as an endurance sport. I also received more than a few comments and emails praising the post and asking for more details. It is for these people that I once again write about this idea of Ski Rando Racing, Ski Running, or Ski Mountaineering – whatever it is called in the US. It is so young that it has yet to really have a name stick. So here are my thoughts about this sport that I am sure would be phenomenally popular if given a chance.

Maybe Ski Running is a good term as in some ways it is a fit. If you are a trail runner, road biker, mountain biker, nordic skier, or hiker …and also a backcountry skier – Ski Running combines all of these into a winter sport that can be done alone on all that lower angle terrain you have been ignoring while headed to the steeper stuff. No, it is not about the turns, it is about the experience of going to the mountains, moving quickly, efficiently and becoming fantastically fit from it all. Think nordic skiing light but backcountry capable, and think perfect singletrack where you decide to lay it down.

For me, the opportunities opened up when I saw the gear. Having previously lived in the Mammoth Lakes area of California, backcountry skiing meant telemarking. I ignored that and promptly locked my heels down many years back when AT gear became more efficient. Nevertheless, the setups were still a bit clunky and heavy. Dynafit certainly helped lighten the load but the typical US gear selection was still about skiing down, not necessarily up, even though 90% of the backcountry skiers life is spent going…. up.

The Euro racing scene

As I started spending more time in Europe, specifically the Italian Dolomites, I discovered an entirely new gear selection. Superlight everything, taken to an even higher level thanks to the phenomenally popular European race culture. Suddenly there is backcountry gear not much heavier than a nordic set up that also allows one to ski well… down.

After three back to back ski trade shows in recent weeks it is becoming clear – this gear is beginning to make its way to the US and just might possibly be on shelves for the winter of 2011. Dynafit seems to be riding this wave most effectively with their new Dy.N.A. Race and TLT5 ultralight all purpose boot. Scarpa’s F1 has long been the standard, and continues to be king, but keep an eye as well on both Garmont and Scarpa’s new offerings.

Because I know the range so well, and especially the potential for big spring tours, I cannot imagine a much better place for ultralight ski touring gear than California’s Sierra Nevada – so maybe this post is for you guys. In Colorado, Utah and Wyoming it has already caught on, yet in the Sierra, where it is a perfect match, not quite yet.

A ski running day rather than a skiing day. But yes, the big bowl back there, already skied it.

Ski Rando Case Study

A beautiful, still winter day in the Dolomites. Time to get out for some exercise and I would live to ski, but with whom? It’s a Tuesday morning and I made no plans with friends. I grab my light ski gear and head out the door. Destination: frontcountry, lower angled, rolling terrain, ridgelines; in other words, safe.

3 hours later I have a 26km ski behind me with an average heart rate of 165. I still managed to gain 1200 meters and even made some nice powder turns in the trees. Sounds like a fun workout, much like going for a summer run or ride, but all while being in the mountains in the depths of winter.

Tiny heel post

My Ski Rando Gear

Skis: Ski Trab Duo Sintesi Aero – an all around superlight ski for both training and moderate tours, yet light enough to race on. There are lots of skis to choose from…

Bindings: Dynafit toe piece, Schia heel post. Be warned, many race heel bindings are not releasable. Dynafit does make a very light, releasable heel with the Speed Binding

Poles: Ski Trab with tall grip for multiple hand positions, length = floor to nearly shoulder height

Skins: Ski Trab narrow skins, they only go 2/3 of the ski length, You want some base showing to allow for skating and gliding

Boots: Scarpa F1′s

My thought about all of this is the simple fact that you can go out for a very real backcountry ski using extremely comfortable, light gear. Skinning will suddenly feel like trail running, but get to the top, rip your skins and enjoy the benefits of being on skis. It doesn’t matter if you intend to ever race, it’s really about getting out more often, experiencing the backcountry in a new way and implementing a different type of exercise for fitness – one that will have you all the more appreciative when you really go backcountry skiing.

Yep, it's a workout. Guess I can't hide the two stops at huts

The tallest sandwich on record post ski running workout yesterday

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US Ski Mountaineering Team Member Nina Silitch as Guest Contributor

In the coming days, Top US Team Member Nina Silitch will be writing up a post of her own with details about being at the top of the game while living in Europe as a Ski Randonee Racer (or is it Ski Running? Ski Mountaineering? What did we decide?)

Finally, Nina will include her thoughts on the US scene and how it is evolving. More about Nina at:  FasterSkier.com

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Further Ski Mountaineering Links

The US Ski Mountaineering Association

Boulder Performance Ski Rando Racing

Skin Transition Video

Local Dolomites Race – Tour de Sas Video

2006 World Championship Video

The Lone Randoer

“How do ya’ like that rando stuff? Does it work as good as telemark?”, inquired a stranger at the neighboring table after eyeing Jon’s carbon Dynafit rando race boots.
Perfect I thought, the perfect introduction to this story. Jon’s response would be key.
“I think it’s better”, he said.

Jon Crowley skiing on the Mammoth Crest

Mammoth’s Stellar Brew was packed with skiers; lift skiers, snowboarders, tele skiers, nordic skiers, backcountry skiers but only one local ski rando racer, 29 year old Jon Crowley.

In a town known for athletes, such as Olympic stars Meb Keflezighi and Deena Kastor, it is greatly lacking in ski randonee racers. In fact it isn’t just Mammoth Lakes coming up short, there are probably as many rando racers in California as there are toes on your feet. For Mammoth, Jon is the only show in town.

Early this morning I joined him for a training session on the Mammoth Crest so we could discuss what it’s like to be driven and focused on a sport that virtually no one knows about. No one that is, unless you go to Europe or parts of Colorado and Wyoming.
In Europe the sport is nothing short of massive with numerous full time athletes, TV time, its own magazines, and in some races hundreds lining up to start. In fact where we live in Italy it is likely one can race about four days a week throughout the winter. Meanwhile, in the Eastern Sierra Nevada, the only local race was cancelled due to a lack of interest.

While Jon is frustrated with the less than enthusiastic support of the sport, he does see interest growing.
“I think the gear is going to be what gets people’s attention. It doesn’t matter if you race or not. The gear has a perfect application for the Sierra Nevada where spring conditions would allow skiers to do massive tours. The history of Sierra skiing includes huge spring tours done on nordic gear. This new race stuff is not much heavier and all of a sudden you can really ski corn with a pack on, that while moving really efficiently and quickly.”

Boot packing up a couloir for training

Training for transitions

My own experience in California talking about Euro rando racing has met with some laughs. The very idea has been quickly put into the category of elitist mountain competition, something I am pretty sure turns the stomachs of most backcountry skiers. I asked Jon of his experience.

“I probably get laughed at by 50% of the backcountry skiers, and not in a friendly way. But the other 50% are totally interested and want to know about it. I think many Mammoth skiers succumb to the ski industry marketing hype of bigger, fatter and heavier is better. This idea does not make sense for every skier. Also, Americans have some aversion to sports with lycra.”

“But at the same time, I go to races out in Colorado and Wyoming and only about 1/3 of the people are on real race gear, the rest are using standard backcountry gear. Still, they are having a ton of fun and becoming very interested in what the sport is all about. If they can have fun on the heavy gear, think if they upgrade. And they are, places like Jackson and Crested Butte have already sizeable, and growing, populations of ski rando racers.”

Jon Crowley skiing on the Mammoth Crest

Dan: “I compare the scene with American road racing as I was racing in the US through the early Lance Armstrong years. Pre-Lance, road biking was a bit too Euro as well; lycra, bright colors, and skinny little people made for a sketchy sport. It took a bad ass lycra wearing Texan to change all that and make it mainstream. Now it is mostly acceptable to march into an Eastern Sierra cafe clad in spandex. But a lycra ski suit for the backcountry? Not so sure. Perhaps America needs a hero figure to kick some Euro butt and justify its existence. Or perhaps America can skip the BS this time around and accept what may well be a truly pure mountain sport.”

Jon: “The backcountry is sacred here. The local attitude seems to be that anything having to do with competition in the mountains is wrong. Why? I love the fact that Pete Swenson, the multiple US National Champion is 42 years old and still crushing people. Totally inspiring. It is a great sport for older endurance athletes. For the ski industry, the racing scene has introduced a lot of innovation that trickles down to traditional backcountry skiing.”

Dan: “What are your goals?”

Jon: “To make the US National Team and race in Europe. It would be a treat to race where it all started and to feel the enthusiasm. Ultimately, I want to share my own enthusiasm for the sport and help build a race community right here in Mammoth. My vision is to introduce the sport to people, get a training group going, maybe a weeknight race and even a Junior team like they have for nordic skiing”.

Simple, Light, Effective

Dan: “How do you stay motivated to train when you are all alone?”

Jon: “The potential for both me personally and to grow the sport. Also, I have changed from being a goal oriented skier – let’s go ski that – to focusing more on every aspect of the experience of backcountry skiing.”

Dan: “What is the best way to introduce the sport?”

Jon: “I think it is through the gear. Look what Dynafit is doing with all their products; high performance, superlight, well made gear, all of which can be applied to standard backcountry skiing. People like gear and this sport has some seriously cool, hi-tech gear. For many types of ski touring, light gear equals more skiing.”

And what more can we ask for? Skiing… lots of it. Regardless of whether or not you want to try ski mountaineering races, the sport has both gear and an open minded attitude that benefits the user. Maybe it’s worth a look.

Jon Crowley

Are you interested in Ski Rando Racing and live in the Eastern Sierra Nevada? Mammoth, Crowley, Lee Vining, June Lake, Bishop?

Jon Crowley would love to connect and introduce his developing East Side Ski Running Group.
Jon can be reached at Mammoth Mountaineering where he works on the sales floor and ski shop: 888.395-3951

or email jon@mammothgear.com

Many thanks to the following companies for the support they have offered.

It’s a cliche for a reason: “The best camera is the one you have with you”.

Right. In the age of iPhones and Photo Apps, you not only have a camera always at the ready, you have some very useful tools to make the images look the way you want them to look. Get to know your applications then think ahead and you can have some very cool results.

As athletes ourselves, we cannot always have a camera with us, but it is likely that we’ll have a mobile phone onboard. Thus, the extensive collection of cycling, or from the bike, shots. What I like about all of these images is that they are real; rush ahead and snap a frame as friends go by. These are true images of what we see while living our lives, not as photographers but as athletes or travelers.

All of these images were made with an iPhone and all effects were from various apps within the phone itself. We’d love to hear which is your favorite and why – thanks.

While training in Tuscany with my friend Andreas Irsara, he rode ahead on these dirt roads we were riding and snapped this photo of me with my own phone. It is one of my all time favorites. Well done Andreas, you out shot the pro!

During the same trip to Tuscany, I made this image literally while pedaling by. I knew I wanted the square, old timey effect, so I centered the group of trees so as to be able to crop later.

Janine and I on one of our countless days out mountain biking near Cortina d’Ampezzo. The Tilt Shift effect does a great job of miniaturizing the scene. You have to practice to learn when it will work and when it will not.

Andreas and I were waiting for Janine to shoot some landscape images while on a trip to Iceland.

Janine made this photo of me in the Eastern Sierra Nevada as I was riding up to meet her after she had gone for a trail run. I like the depth in the image behind me while it maintains a snapshot feel.

While riding with four Dutch friends in the Dolomites, I was frantically trying to get something exactly like this, from the bike, to show the drama of what you see while road riding in the Italian Dolomites.

Andreas Irsara mountain biking in the Alta Badia while we were scouting a video location. When we returned a week later, a huge bench had been built right where he is riding.

A Tuscan hilltop town photo made right from my bike saddle. I think Tuscany truly was made for the camera.

I love the spontaneity of this image of Janine while in Pienza, Italy

We were in India for the big news

India… It would have been a shame to have missed this one

Shot from my road bike on the dreamy, car-less roads of the Chianti Region of Italy

Late in the fall a group of friends did a huge mountain bike ride in the Dolomites, this was from a small summit we rode to the top of with endless views of the range.

This photo was one of the first I ever made with the iPhone. I was on a long mountain bike ride alone in the Dolomites and stopped at a hut to eat something when this Dohle landed on my handlebars. It is said that these mountain birds are spirits of people lost in the mountains. It hung around for awhile as if to say hello.

The Camera Apps that we use are:

Photogene

Tilt Shift Gen

Camera Bag

Photoshop Mobile

Genius

Follow us on Twitter to see more of these photos as they are made

Skiing the Sella Group, the Kingdom of Couloirs

Sitting in the heart of the Italian Dolomites and rising above some of the region’s most famous villages is The Sella Group. Simply put, it takes your breath away. With its massive towers and labyrinth like corridors, it is a tremendous rock formation. Consisting of many different peaks it is a complex structure: all sides are rocky and vertical, and yet the top is flat. At its base there are four valleys linked together by the most efficient lift system in the world. This circuit, all on groomed pistes, is called the “Sellaronda” and runs around this mountain offering unforgettable views on each side. Skiers come from all over the world to spend a full day circumnavigating this island of stone on perfect alpine pistes.

At first glance, it seems to be a mountain impossible to ski, but a closer look reveals many different “white snakes” coming down from the top plateau through the coloured walls. These are the famous couloirs of the Dolomites. The Sella is the best place if you want to know them and understand the feeling of couloir skiing.

The Sass Pordoi cable car is the “door” of the kingdom and in only a few minutes we are on the top of the Altiplano, close to 3000 meters where the air is always cold and views to the Marmolada and beyond, stunning.
A tourist asks us where are we going with skis, because there are no pistes here and from the terrace you can only see huge cliffs… He doesn’t know that it is possible to move on the Altiplano and reach many hidden off-piste descents.
We start to ski on the flat summit of Sass Pordoi making the first track in 15 centimeters of fresh snow; the day is cold and sunny and I can feel the excitement of the guys who are skiing with me.
The first turns are a good warm up and in few minutes we reach the forcella Pordoi; the temptation to ski the south couloir or the north side (Lasties Valley) without tracks is very strong, but our goal is Piz Boè at 3152 meters, the highest peak of the group. For this, it is always better to go before it will becomes too warm.
We start to traverse toward the Mesdì valley, the most famous off-piste itinerary of the area, a kind of  “Vallèè Blanche” of the Dolomites.
But before its starting point we move right and start climbing with crampons on over the easy but rocky west ridge of Piz Boè. We’re headed for the little hut on the summit.
Now it’s time for a rest, close to the wood wall of the hut where we are protected by the wind and where the sun is stronger. From here the view is unbelievable and we can see in distance other skiers walking to Mesdì Valley and a group skinning up to north side of the Altiplano toward the Setus Valley, one of the best traverse of the Sella group.
In few minutes we start the ritual to get ready for the descent: crampons into the backpack, boots tightened, skis on, goggles, skipoles…rock and roll.
The northest face is wide and quite steep. Many people say that skiing a couloir is frightening, and here this is maybe a little true, because from where we start we can see the valley under your skis! It is time to find out.Thanks to the good snow, we all drop in and make perfect turns to reach the next starting point to the “Val delle Fontane”, an incredibly steep couloir which is hidden from the top. Here is the only possibility to ski down this side of Sella.
We are lucky, the sun has softened the snow in just the right amount. The couloir requires perfect snow for skiing.
Thankfully, the rope remains in the backpack and we start to ski the 40° corridor with jump turns between the gold and orange walls. With blue sky above our heads, we all descend, smiling, to the valley.
The ride is a pleasure and quickly the couloir is wide enough for longer turns. The skis move the surface of the snow drawing a perfect track behind. Stops are only for brief rests, to take pictures and to see the others in action (and to breathe!), but we prefer not to stop too much or it feels as if our “dream” is escaping.
At the end of the gully we have to traverse right to reach the open slopes; now it’s easier, there is no longer tension, but the snow is starting to be heavy …and our legs too.
Once we reach the lifts at the bottom we look back up to see our tracks in the couloir. They always seem to be much steeper from this perspective and I can see the satisfaction in the eyes of my client. This brings me great joy, to reveal the passages that are hidden in this great mountain.
But it’s only lunch time, if we keep moving the snow on the north side will still be good…

Francesco Tremolada is a UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain and Ski Guide based in the Italian Dolomites

Francesco works with Corvara’s Alta Badia Guides School and specializes in steep skiing. He has countless hard descents to his credit, many with clients in both the Dolomites and the Alps.

He is also the author of the new guidebook “Freeride in Dolomiti”, unarguably the finest guide for skiing in the Dolomites.

Contact : info@proguide.it

Phone  +39 339 105 5653

www.proguide.it

(DolomiteSport Sidenote – I would like to personally say thank you to Francesco for his contribution. Also, to add that for most any skier who dreams of dropping into these famous couloirs, they are not easy to find… using the services of a mountain guide will be appreciated)

The Wineglass

The thought of backcountry skiing the lower elevation trees was out of the question this morning. Boring was the term that was coming to mind. After 13 days skiing the backcountry, it was time to get up high and put some mileage in. In the morning we called it recon for conditions, now in the evening, we are calling it a great decision.

Without any new snow recently in the Sierra Nevada, and loads of wind, things have been falling apart. Options are becoming fewer and fewer, nearly everything exposed or up high has been trashed. Our enthusiasm has been reduced by crust and thinning snow depths.

Today our gamble paid off – big time. And, much to my liking, we found some Sierra Nevada terrain I had never laid eyes on. Couloirs, lots and lots of couloirs. For some odd reason, I had the voice of Susie Sutphin “wowing” in my head. John Dittlis Sierra Nevada wisdom, resulting from 30+ years of skiing the backcountry, continues to payoff.

Conditions are still good, very good.

Yes, there are tracks in this photo

John Dittli entering the newly named Sierra Wilderness Area