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Mountain Biking

Captain Dan Goes Mountain Biking

In 25 years of playing in the mountains, daily no less, I have never witnessed nature’s power as I did this afternoon.

Rising over 1200 meters directly behind our house in the Italian Dolomites are the northern slopes of the Plan de Corones, or Kronplatz. The giant hillside is completely covered in thick, lush forest with a massive network of dirt roads and singletrack mountain biking trails. Literally 2 minutes from our door, it is our playground.

This afternoon, much later than I would like with “extreme thunderstorms” forecast, I headed out for a training session. Shorts, short sleeve jersey, vest for the downhill – it’s summer, right?

As I neared the 3/4 mark to the top I began getting glimpses west, black is an understatement for what was approaching. I continued up having no doubt it would rain but with little concern as it is not so unusual to get a good soaking in the European Alps. A group of downhillers came bombing towards me. Through each of their face guards I could see little beady eyes looking at me with sick pleasure. Turns out they had seen something from up high that I missed being down in the trees. The fact that they were on the dirt road, and not the downhill course should have been a good clue for me to turn tail and get the hell down.

Minutes after they passed the first drops began to pelt me. But this wasn’t rain, it was like waterballoons coming down. And then, like the sun had been extinguished, the day went black as night. Here, those that know me will surely question my exaggeration level – the “Dan Factor” as Janine likes to call it. I swear it to be a zero. Had I have had a headlamp I would have surely considered the On switch. Creepy is a good term to describe how it felt as I now crept upward.

The disturbing silence was shattered by what sounded like a military aircraft coming in low, as it came closer the sound grew, I thought for sure something was about to crash into the hillside, and then I was driven sideways, nearly off the road, my left foot unclipping just in time to save me from plummeting down the steep forested slope. Wind so violent it was more like a wave of water than air, a nearby tree exploded and crashed to the ground, I barely stayed upright. Determined, I carried on, intrigued by what was happening; the blackness, the wind, and now the thundering explosions of what was right on top of me. Basically, I thought, “Cool”.  I heard an SMS come in and quickly pulled the phone from my jersey pocket, it was Janine, “Are you okay? Get home fast”.

Suddenly my little game changed when one word entered my head. “Hail.”

Immediately I stopped, pulled out the vest, and by the time it was zipped closed all hell broke loose, hail, like a sand blaster. Summer no more. Back on board the bike I was ripping down best I could given that I couldn’t see and my bare skin felt like it was being torn off . But soon the hail stopped and my tempo settled into something tolerable, I actually began enjoying my 700 meter descent in what was quickly becoming a torrent of brown, rushing water. I imagined myself Captain Dan from Forrest Gump, on my bike, hanging on, loving that feeling of being really so small in something so big and powerful.

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Mountain Biking Dolomites Sellaronda

What is the Dolomite’s Sella?

An incredible amount of activity literally surrounds what is arguably the Dolomite’s true heart, the Sella Group. Rising like an island in a calm sea, the Sella is an enormous, 9 kilometer wide freestanding massif. With its tiered layers, towers, couloirs and mostly flat top, it has been nicknamed the “Wedding Cake”. Dropping away beneath it are four deep valleys; Val Gardena, Val Badia, Val di Fassa, and Valle di Livinalongo. The highpoint, Piz Boe is 3152 meters yet directly beneath it is the village of Arabba at 1605. Simple math reveals some serious relief. No matter how many times I stare at the Sella new features appear; towers, jagged ridges and straightline couloirs.

Sellaronda Mountain Bike Tour, descending Pordoi to Canazei

In the winter it is famous for its steep couloirs (Skiing in the Kingdom of Couloirs) while in the summer, it is a buzz with activity around it, for a network of roads and trails circumnavigate the massif, each plummeting into the three valley’s before rising again to passes before the next drop. Do one of its many loops and you’ll have an endless display of sublime beauty. And it is these loops around the Sella that attracts diverse athletes from around the world.

The Sellaronda is a venue. I have raced around it a number of times in the Maratona dles Dolomites, which circles it as the road race’s first segment. Also, the Sellaronda Ski Marathon does even more vertical on skis as it dramatically drops all the way into each surrounding valley. Coming in 2011 is a brutally difficult trail running race similar in torturous design as the famous ski race. Finally, there is the Sellaronda Hero Race , one of Europe’s most difficult races, which gives cross country mountain bikers an opportunity to suffer around the bulk of the massif. But for the visiting mountain biker, there is now opportunity to do the Sellaronda in its entirety using lifts for the climbs so as to spend a very full day of downhilling. Easy? Read on.

Alta Badia Sellaronda Start

In my opinion, the perfect start (if you do the more classic clockwise tour) for the Sellaronda is the Alta Badia and the village of La Villa. This is not so much for how it starts but for how it finishes (the last stretch into Corvara is bliss at day’s end, read on). That said, being on top of the Piz La Ila after first tram is a great place to spend your morning with the sunrise illuminating the towering Sassongher in stunning light. From Piz La Ila, rolling hills lead to Piz Sorega before some perfect single track twists through lush forests down to the Campolongo Pass, and here begins the long drop to Arabba.

Sellaronda Mountain Bike Tour, entering the forest above Corvara

Arabba to Passo Pordoi

From Arabba the Porta Vescovo tram is ridden 800 meters up. Exit tram and spend some time staring at the Dolomite’s biggest mountain, the Marmolada sits unobstructed directly south of the tram station. One of the Dolomites few remaining glaciers still coats the north side of the mountain. Keep moving, you have a long way to go…

A loose, dirt road leads you down to the beginning of one of the longest sections of singletrack on the whole tour. Once on the singletrack, you’ll roll west until it intersects the Passo Pordoi road, here squishy mountain bikes with low saddles join their road bike brethren for about 1km until the top of the Pordoi.

Andreas, inside the tram, impressing the tourists, irritating the tram operator

Passo Pordoi to Canazei

Time for a valley switch and the descent to Canazei, this is possibly the best piece of singletrack on the tour. Stop midway for a lunch break at Hotel Lupo Bianco, a four star hotel with a unique menu loaded with specialty pastas and polenta. But don’t linger too long, again, you have a long way to go… Once in Canazei, head through the village to the bike path for the neighboring village of Campitello and the Col Rodella tram.

DolomiteBiking Guides Klaus and Andreas Irsara

Sella Pass to Selva Gardena

Exit the Col Rodella tram and drop towards the Sella Pass. Once roadside a singletrack trail leads through the forests where you can jump off trail and surf the perfectly smooth grassy slopes of the ski runs – descend 1000 meters to Selva Gardena (Wolkenstein).

Sellaronda Mountain Bike Tour, beginning the final descent. Passo Gardena to Alta Badia

Val Gardena to Corvara, Alta Badia

In Selva, the Dantercepies gondola is taken to the Passo Gardena before the final 600 meter drop back to the Val Badia. Again, the descent starts on flowing singletrack which ends at a small trail side waterfall on the north side of the valley. Here begins one of the most pleasant gently rolling trails in all of the Dolomites, a perfect leg stretching, brake cooling end to an unforgettable day. Bike paths lead all the way back to the starting point in La Villa.

Sellaronda Facts

Clockwise

Time : 5 hours – All day

Length : 58km

Total Vertical : 3400 meters

Total Climbing : 500 meters

Counterclockwise

Time : 6 hours – All day

Length : 53km

Total Vertical : 3000 meters

Total Climbing : 1150 meters

Languages : Three… Ladin, German, and yes, Italian, will be spoken throughout the tour.

Difficulty : Intermediate to Advanced – with good brakes and basic mountain biking skills, you’ll get around. Comfort on steep, loose terrain is a must.

Of course it is possible to do the mountain bike loop under your own power, without lifts. How long does this take? Klaus Fontana, winner of the 2010 race which is even longer with 4200 meters of climbing, did it in less than 5 hours. Do not consider this a benchmark.

Signs exist, but not for all trails

Now that you are sold, here is the important stuff. As of this writing, it is required to take a guide on this tour. Don’t think about trying it without or you won’t be getting on any lifts with your bike. This is to insure you stay on the mountain bike trails and not venture onto hiking paths. I can guarantee that without a guide you will not find the best singletrack anyway, so.. a guide it is. Plus, you’ll have a million questions about everything you are looking at. It is paradise, maximize what you do.

Note : Check your brakes, a guide friend said that modern disc brakes, brand new, are good for about four Sellarondas – this pretty much says it all. Corvara, Canazei and Selva all have great bike shops in case you need service.

Inside the Campitello tram station, about to begin another long "climb"

Dolomite Mountain Bike Guiding Services

Our closest friends are the guys at DolomiteBiking.com – this is a local group of certified mountain bike guides all from the region and based in the Alta Badia. They are responsible for us having the great experience seen in these photos.

The final descent to Corvara in Alta Badia, like I said... Bliss

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Mountain Biking in the Dolomites Val Gardena

Mountain biking beneath the Geisler Group

Dolomites Mountain Biking

Italy’s Val Gardena, or Gröden in German, is one of Italy’s most famous ski destinations. But it is certainly not just for skiing, and it is only Italy by location – for this is a special valley where the look & feel is much closer to its more Germanic northern neighbors. Here, the Dolomiti are the Dolomiten – you will see and hear more German and the local Ladin than Italian, yet the food and overall flavor is distinctly that of Italy – it is the best of all worlds. Amongst it all, the Val Gardena is rapidly becoming a premier destination for mountain biking.

Seems the valley’s Tourism Offices, recognizing the value that mountain bike tourism brings, have started making the region very friendly to knobby tire athletes. An abundance of trails, mountain huts, ski lifts for those not wanting to ride so much uphill, and some of the most stunning scenery in the entire Dolomites makes the area truly worthy of a visit. And so we have started to explore and can now confirm, superb.

Where to Go in Val Gardena?

Between the villages of Selva and Ortisei (Wolkenstein and St. Ulrich) are countless hotels, and this is a great place to basecamp. Lifts run from this end of the valley up to Seceda, Alpe di Siusi and Col Reiser – all key access points for trails. For a quiet, car free location, look into staying up on the Alpe di Siusi (Seiseralm) itself.

When to Go to Val Gardena?

June – early October, although June might still be wet and snowy depending on the spring, and August could be so full of tourists you will be better off leaving your bike in the valley and walking with everyone else. August, in my opinion, is not the month to see the Dolomites if a peaceful mountain experience is desired.

Biking and Hiking in the Val Gardena

Time to be honest… the mountain biking in the Dolomites is great, but with the massive trail system, a plethora of options, and loads of dirt roads thrown into the mix, the first time visitor is going to be overwhelmed and likely thinking, “Hey, I saw all these great photos of beautiful trails, but where, and which, are they?” We have had the good fortune of being shown by locals the best trails to ride, and so for the visitor, I would suggest doing the same – getting a mountain bike guide. It will save time and insure the best experience, not to mention prevent excessive bike carrying and pushing.

Alpe di Siusi and sunset on the Sassolungo

This is not the website for detailed route descriptions and GPS coordinates. Our goal is to inspire a visit to the area and provide some services information for the next step. But, as mentioned above, key riding areas for the Val Gardena are:

Alpe di Siusi (Seiseralm) including the traverse around to the Sella Pass via the Citta di Sassi (dirt roads). The entire high plateau provides moderate and brilliant mountain biking tours with incredible views to the Sassolungo (Langkofel). Monte Pana is a good starting point.

Col Raiser – the entire upper plateau around the Rifugio Firenze (Regensburger Hut). Either ride up or take the gondola from near Selva (Wolkenstein).

Seceda – From Ortisei (St. Ulrich), take the Seceda gondola only to the mid-station, exit and ride dirt roads and trails to the Rifugio Rasciesa (Raschotz Hut) then the breathtaking path to Rifugio Brogles (Brogles Hut).

Mountain biking above Col Reiser in the Val Gardena

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WARNING: This is a very popular hiking destination as well and the trails need to be shared. There is a proposal to restrict mountain bikes to dirt roads only within the Dolomites – we don’t want to lose our trail access. Ride with respect.

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Hiking & Peak Bagging in the Dolomites Val Gardena

Mountain biking can be limiting in what it allows you access to in the very rugged, complicated Dolomites. One of our favorite things to do to take advantage of all the un-rideable terrain is to pedal in to a hut, lock the bikes, swap cycling for running shoes, and head up the big peaks. A few key ones to put on the list are the Montijela (via Selva and Rifugio Firenze), the Sasso Piatto (via Alpe di Siusi) for its position & endless views and of course the gem, the Sas Rigais’ Via Ferrata – a big, committing undertaking (Guide recommended- see below).

Recommended Val Gardena / Gröden Services

Mountain Biking Guides : DolomiteBiking.com – our closest friends, the very one’s who showed us around. Locals know best.

Tour Operator Service : Holimites.com - specializing in active, mountain sport visits to the Dolomites

Mountain Guides : Alberto De Giuli |  Marcello Cominetti |  Francesco Tremolada take your pick, all superb

Tourism Office : Val Gardena Tourism

Bike Shop for Info & Rentals : Dolomiti Adventures

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Val Gardena Cycling Events

The Sellaronda Hero is probably the highlight for mountain biking. An absolutely brutal course of 82km with 4200 meters of climbing – touted as Europe’s hardest mountain bike race.

The Sellaronda Bike Day: while not just for mountain bikers, but all cyclists, this is a special day each summer where the Dolomites roads are closed to cars throughout the famous Sellaronda loop. Bikes only = paradise. 16,000 cyclists make their way to the region for this day.

The Brogles Hut

Mountain biking above Col Reiser in the Val Gardena

Have you been to Val Gardena? We would love to hear your experience – please use the Comments section on this post to share your thoughts – thanks.

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Trail Running & Mountain Biking

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Rene Pitscheider and Luca Tiezza

We have been working with some friends to create some tourism marketing material to promote the Dolomites for trail running and mountain biking. A collaborative video project showing off the region’s offerings is in the works and will be ready to post this coming winter. Our goal with this new image collection is to really show off the Dolomite’s trails, landscape, and exactly what awaits the visiting mountain sports athlete. Stay tuned for upcoming new services from friends and partners of DolomiteSport – much is in the works.

For now, PatitucciPhoto’s stills from the last week. Follow us on Twitter at DolomiteSport

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Oskar Irsara

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Raffaella Rungger and Oskar Irsara

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Raffaella Rungger and Oskar Irsara

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Raffaella Rungger and Oskar Irsara

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Raffaella Rungger and Oskar Irsara

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Rene Pitscheider and Luca Tiezza

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Rene Pitscheider and Luca Tiezza

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Rene Pitscheider and Luca Tiezza

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Rene Pitscheider and Luca Tiezza

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Rene Pitscheider and Luca Tiezza


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GoreTex Review

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Does GoreTex really work?

I’ll admit to some nerdy tendencies and let it be known that I keep a pretty detailed training and “fun log”. It keeps me informed about my training while providing some motivation to fill in each day’s square with what I did, training time, intensity, etc…  Things have seemed pretty busy this year in terms of being out, so I looked. Sure enough, of our 243 days this year, I have been in the mountains for 220 of them. This is consistent with the last 20 years of my life. LOTS of time in the mountains.

This seems a good foundation for figuring out what gear really work and what does not. Our Gear Reviews have been tremendously popular and the traffic I see on these posts inspires me to keep the Gear Review momentum going. So, in the coming entries I will be randomly choosing items we use that function perfectly, or little things I have discovered that make life working/playing in the mountains run smoothly. Gear is obviously really important for my work and comfort so careful thought needs to go into decisions about what to use.

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Pouring rain and high exertion. Gore-Tex works.

1st up, GoreTex.

If you would have asked me, “What sort of rain jacket do you use?” three years ago, I would have mentioned whatever soft shell, water resistant, alpine jacket I was using at the time. I am from California, rain was something I either didn’t experience much of or I quickly passed through on my way to higher elevations to where it was snowing. “Crunchy” shells were not something I needed, I was spoiled.

But now, living in Europe, I get to experience rain. And after having just spent two weeks in Iceland I came to realize Gore-Tex works and it works quite well. We were actually doing a photo shoot for Gore and were provided with numerous pairs of boots and jackets from all the different companies they partner with; from Mammut to Adidas to Scott to La Sportiva.

When it rains in Iceland it is often a fine spray which is far more soaking than a downpour. We were in it each day, wrapped in GoreTex from head to toe, hiking steep peaks and exerting energy within the material. Bone dry is a safe assessment of what we found inside our shells. In fact it worked so well that being in the rain was a non-issue, it was just what we did. Ironically, this was the point of the photos and it turned out to be true.

What one wears underneath the GoreTex membrane is very important – don’t wear too much and do wear the right materials. For us, we all wore thin, synthetic base layers with a mid-weight fleece of our choice on top. We stayed warm and dry. For socks, wool seems superior and the consensus is that Smartwool makes the best. It is amazing that Smartwool socks do not smell.

Back home now in the Dolomites, I have incorporated a thin Gore Bike Wear jacket into my wardrobe, it goes on every outing, both running and mountain biking. With zip off sleeves to turn it into a vest, it is undoubtedly one of the best pieces I own.

Another small item I have found to be fantastic is the Gore windstopper headband. I have long been a fan of headbands as they seem to regulate the body temp best. But the windstop material’s overlooked feature is the quiet that it provides. It dampens the sound of the aggravating wind, put it on and enjoy quiet much like noise dampening headphones on an airplane. Also available in beanie hats  - must haves in my opinion.

Finally, footwear. For me, GoreTex on my feet is a mixed blessing. I have hot feet, really hot. So, unless it is cold out, my feet don’t want to be wrapped in any additional membrane. In the cold and wet of Iceland, GoreTex boots worked absolutely perfectly and we trudged through mud, ankle deep creeks and had water pouring off our legs onto the tops of the boots. “Bone dry” is the right description for inside the boot.

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Gaiters and Gore-Tex running shoes - good combo

I have also done a running tour in Iceland where we ran through the  same conditions. I used GoreTex shoes for this as well and found that they worked fine. But being low top, if it is seriously wet, water still gets in and they end up being soaked. To me, running shoes are the exception, if it is pouring rain and you are charging through puddles, you’ll get soaked regardless. They are like GoreTex shorts – why? If you need running shoes to stay dry in mildly wet weather and mud, then GoreTex is going to do the job. But for boots in the wet – definitely go GoreTex.

As photographers we are lucky to be given a lot of clothing to shoot photos of. Gore gave us a lot of their running and cycling stuff under the brand name Gore but not made with GoreTex. Gore Bike Wear and Gore Running Wear are a bit confusing – they are made with GoreTex, right? WRONG. It is absolutely beautifully designed performance clothing. I would consider it to be some of the best pure sport clothing I have used. The name is a bit confusing, we associate Gore with GoreTex, but in the case of the clothing lines it is not all made with the GoreTex material itself.

To summarize… I have had to learn how to work in the rain without it affecting me. The fact that I must always carry camera gear means I have a heavy pack, which forces me to figure out what gear is lightest yet still works. Gore has proven to be a great product to rely on so I can work, train and enjoy being in the mountains no matter what the weather is doing.

Gore is a company I am impressed with, not only for what they make, but for how happy their employees are and for their corporate philosophies. Malcom Gladwell’s best seller, “The Tipping Point” revealed why they make for an interesting company. PatitucciPhoto and DolomiteSport are in no way working with Gore, we simply appreciate quality – when we find it, we’ll promote it and review it.

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Dolomite’s Mountain Biking | Steve Casimiro

After 6 straight days of rain, and little to show for it but two very muddy mountain bikes sitting on our balcony – I will let our friend, and National Geographic Adventure Editor, Steve Casimiro do the talking for mountain biking in the Dolomites.

Steve Casimiro also runs the wildly popular and successful website/blog/adventure news site: The Adventure Life

He just posted a fun read from a past mountain biking trip to the Dolomites, along with some phenomenal photos. Thanks Steve for the great story:

Mountain Biking in the Most Beautiful Places on Earth: Italy’s Dolomite Mountains

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