Thanks to Manuel Riz www.manuelriz.blogspot.com
The Problem of Too Many Motorcycles in the Dolomites
(Note 12/19/11 : Thanks to so much great support, this post is getting a ton of traffic, BUT – having views means nothing if we are going to show it to the powers that can do something about this problem, PLEASE – Leave a comment)
It’s time to bring up a nasty subject that many who visit the Dolomites experience in a very negative way. For years now I have felt growing anger and frustration for the thousands of motorcycles that come to the Italian Dolomites. I finally brought it up to locals, business owners and my athlete friends and promptly discovered I’m not the only one who feels this way. So angry are they that the subject is almost painful to discuss, for it seems nothing is being done about it. I however, am more than happy to publicly state my thoughts and make it clear that these motorcycles are a cancer to this amazing region.
Motorbikes on the Passo Gardena
The Dolomites are unarguably one of the world’s most beautiful landscapes and everyone has the right to experience them. But why is one user group allowed to negatively impact the experience of all the others while at the same time causing numerous disturbances to the natural environment in the forms of noise and exhaust pollution as well as a very real threat to the safety of others.
The problem is that motorcyclists come from all over Europe to ride the Dolomite’s famously steep and curvy mountain roads. This is fine as an activity, but the manner in which all too many do it is completely irresponsible on the part of both the riders and local authorities.
This last summer was my first spent climbing some of the walls in the Dolomites. Nowhere is the issue of these motorcycles more apparent than up high where there should be no sound but the wind and jingling of climbing gear. Yet here, the roar of motorcycles is a nearly nonstop irritant. They are so loud it is often impossible to hear one’s partner. Numerous friends came for both climbing and cycling and all made the same comment, “This is disgusting”.
And the Dolomites are a UNESCO World Heritage Site? What a joke. It would be better named the UNESCO International Motor Speedway.
The Dolomites UNESCO Status
This from the UNESCO Page regarding the criterion of managing the Dolomites in accordance with UNESCO Requirements:
“The property requires protection from tourism pressures and related infrastructure. Each of the component parts of the serial property requires its own individual management plan, providing not only for the protection and management of land use, but also the regulation and management of human activities to maintain its values, and in particular to preserve the qualities of its natural landscapes and processes, including extensive areas which still have wilderness character. Areas that are subject to more intensive visitation need to be managed to ensure visitor numbers and activities are within the capacity of the property in relation to the protection of both its values and the experience of visitors to the property. Adequate resources and staffing, and coordination between the staff teams in the different components of the property are also essential.”
Seemingly nothing is adhered to. Protection from infrastructure? They just keep building; pistes, lifts, hotels, access roads, you name it. Maintain the values of human activities? Apparently loud motor sports are a historical activity and value. Or maybe they just see, “Maintain value”, as in €€€. Preserve the qualities of natural environment? In many places of the Dolomites it sounds like you are at the Indy speedway. And it seems the only staffing is by politicians looking to satisfy businesses within the region who everyone knows pockets most of their earnings to avoid exorbitantly high Italian tax rates.
Meanwhile, the Italian police, in their typical show of dramatic yet completely inefficient force, have set up speed traps on busy summer days. The joke is, according to Italian law they must post signs warning oncoming traffic of the impending radar check that lay just ahead. The motorcycles slow to legal speeds, pass by, then resume their ear splitting roar after the next curve in the road. …”Ha ha carabinieri. Fools.”
Or, as is well known, motorcyclists come in groups and send one rider ahead to check for police or anything that may be in the way of his friends – once all clear, he calls back and gives the go ahead for his 18 buddies to charge full bore up or down a pass. Never mind the cyclists silently pedaling along who have to listen to or be nearly taken out by the mirrors on these super bikes. The father of a close friend was killed by a motorcycle while riding his bike up a Dolomites Pass in just such a scenario.
While riding here, I have seen several serious crashes and countless near misses when they lose control in turns, or veer right into my line, when they can’t control the power of the bike they have rented.
What Can be Done?
I have heard from local businesses that there is a fear that with increased motorcycle regulations will come a decrease in revenue. But wait, motorcyclists can’t drink beer during the day. And, it is commonly known that many do not stay in hotels within the Dolomites but opt to stay outside where it is cheaper, the same place where they eat dinner so they aren’t driving at night. I asked several friends who have affordable hotels right in the Dolomites if they ever have motorcylists as guests. The answer, “Almost never”. Why can’t these businesses turn their attention to other summer tourists who also come in great numbers; hikers, cyclists, and climbers.
There are grumblings from within the region, namely from Michil Costa, a local hotel owner and well known activist who strives to keep a handle on tourism gone wild. But it would seem that like so many things, the almighty Euro speaks loudest. As tourists grow tired of the Dolomites experience, or word does get out of the problem, perhaps would be visitors will go elsewhere. All the many tourism websites and magazine articles glorifying the Italian Dolomites are not telling the whole truth. Like my friends all said, “It is disgusting”.
The only thing that may change this is if other tourists begin making it clear that these motorcycles are not tolerable. The web, forums and social media are great ways to start. Italy was one of the first countries in the EU to do something about second hand cigarette smoke in restaurants – how different is this? A solution is to remove some of the freedom these motorcycles are abusing. Have some real speed traps with huge fines, have real noise ordinances that are enforced, and multiple offenders lose the right to drive a motorbike. I do not see this problem on Swiss passes where there are regulations and consequences for breaking them. There I see motorcycles, not in the same numbers, but I see them riding slower and not making nearly the same noise.
The Impact on Dolomite Cyclists, Hikers and Climbers
Visiting mountain lovers be warned. It can be horribly obnoxious and occasionally dangerous here, so much so that I mostly refuse to ride my bike on any of the best passes from about July 1 through early September. Also, educate yourself about the German and Austrian holidays in May and June, for these periods have the Dolomites a virtual racetrack for big, fast bikes.
The Sellaronda Bike (Bicycle) Day
A move in the right direction regarding awareness comes in the form of the now twice annual Sellaronda Bike Day. This event, held early in the summer and again in mid September, draws 16,000 cyclists to enjoy the famous Sellaronda Loop, on closed roads. In addition to the cyclists are an increase in the number of hikers and climbers who can now enjoy one of the most beautiful areas of the Dolomites in silence. The event has brought about awareness and acknowledgement that these tourists, ever hungry and thirsty, bring in enormous revenue while not impacting the environment.
Have you been to the Dolomites? What was your experience?
This is where I ask for your comments. Pressure needs to be put on the region from those that come and spend money. Voice your opinion. If you have been to the Dolomites and had experiences with the motorbikes, good or bad, please let us know. Leave a comment and we’ll make sure the messages and experiences are passed on to the Tourism Board.
(Note 12/19/11 : Thanks to so much great support, this post is getting a ton of traffic, BUT – having views means nothing if we are going to show it to the powers that can do something about this problem, PLEASE - Leave a comment)
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Dolomites Tour Operator