Italy

Tuscany’s L’Eroica Cycling Race

L’Eroica: Chianti’s Vintage Cycling Event

Tuscany’s L’Eroica bike race in Italy is a regular occurrence, for races are everywhere, every weekend. But each fall since 1997, Tuscany’s Chianti Region is host to a special kind of race, L’Eroica, a vintage Cycling event. Italian roads are typically silky smooth pavement represented as yellow lines on maps. But the map’s white lines, or “Strade Bianche” in Italian, are dirt roads, sometimes worn smooth, sometimes hideously bumpy and potholed – and most certainly always full of surprises. These are the roads for L’Eroica, the same cycling roads used for the professional Eroica course in the spring. But instead of carbon fiber, lycra and race radios – the L’Eroica of the fall is a game of steel frames, lugs, vintage wool and hairnets. It is a celebration of the sport, its rich history, and of the heroic efforts made by those who have raced in what may be the most grueling of all sports.

We decided to spend the afternoon at the finish line enjoying the many characters who came to participate. L’Eroica is not just a race, it is an opportunity to show off all things around the history of the bike. If you love cycling, this is something not to be missed. There is little doubt that next year I will return to Chianti, Tuscany, but I’ll be lined up in wool kit, hairnet and straddling a 12kg bike.

Rating: 5.0/5 (9 votes cast)

Passo Giau, Duran & Tre Cime di Lavaredo

Sep 16th, 2009

by dolomitesport.

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The magnificent top of the Passo Giau

Thanks to our Guest Contributor Alex Newport-Berra for his description of riding the famous Dolomite passes and his cycling adventures.

Editor’s note… Alex was connected to us through a mutual friend after he expressed interest in spending time riding in the Dolomites. He arrived with his bike and little else, checked into Alta Badia’s Ustaria Posta for 4 weeks, and became a legend on the roads for his power, endurance, and incredibly long days climbing, climbing, climbing. After his rides he would sit in the ice cold river behind the hotel for long periods, letting his legs go numb for the recovery benefits. As it so often does in a small town, word spread amongst the locals of this crazy American sitting Buddha-like in the river. It was also noted how strong he was. Come summer 2010, I bet we see some Italian cyclists sitting in the river. For me it was a joy to meet Alex and get to show off the roads of the Dolomites. He left me with some training to do.

Alex and Dan riding the Dolomite's Sella Pass

Alex Newport-Berra

There are enough passes in the Dolomites to keep your legs busy for weeks, and when you realize you can climb them from either direction you’ll simply want to double your daily mileage, and when you think about it, why not? A 140 kilometer ride is going to be at least 70 km of downhill, so you’ve really only ridden 70 km, and with the next espresso always less than 10 km away.

My first trip to the Dolomites was a four week paradise during the month of July 2009. The roads, people, scenery, and culture had a profound effect on me. I encourage anyone to find their own time cycling in the Dolomites, whether it be for a few days, a few weeks, or, for my friend Dan, a few months that turn into a few years.

The Passo Giau

I remember the first time I climbed the Giau. Actually, I remember every time I climbed the Giau. Probably similar to the way a mother never forgets childbirth, not the most pleasant feeling during the act of it, huffing, puffing, grunting, red-faced, but when it’s all said and done there’s a big smile followed by the words, “Isn’t it beautiful!”

The Passo Giau waits confidently in a narrow canyon, pain disguised amidst the beauty of cascading waterfalls, towering forests, hundreds of year old farming cottages and rolling green hillsides.

My friend Matt had loaned me his iPod and I was listening to Metallica and as I approached the base of the climb. As if on cue, the song “One” started to play in my ears. “One” is a song about a Vietnam war veteran who awakes to find that he has lost all of his limbs in war and is now merely a torso on life support. The song starts with sound effects of an army helicopter and gunfire rallying in the background.

Alex Newport-Berra ear to ear

A simple triangular sign with an exclamation point, “29 Tornanti!” seemed to serve as a sort of warning that I was in for something serious. Already the climb had a reputation in my mind when Dan and Igor both gave me their thoughts on the climb.

The combination of music and mystique had me feeling I was going to battle, entering the front line. Which, was almost the truth, considering the Dolomites were home to many epic sieges and battles during World War I.

Subsequent ascents were “easier”, thanks to me learning the value of a well timed espresso and knowing a bit more what to expect. Maybe maternity wards should start administering espresso shots for the mother to be.

Still, the final two kilometers, winding exposed up a high alpine meadow, the summit hut in view, you can’t help but feel you might be picked off by a lactic acid sniper on the cliffs at any moment.

The Tre Cime di Lavaredo

You’ll notice this climb lacks the “Passo” lead-in of the others. And this is because the road does not go up and over, just up, and then up some more, and then stops with the most spectacular panorama you will get from a road in the Dolomites.

The meat of the climb is seven kilometers, and don’t worry about filling your water bottles at the bottom, in fact, you’re better off just emptying them. 1) you won’t want to be thinking about the added weight 2) you’ll need every inhale for oxygen.

About halfway up the climb, spray-painted on a barrier after an intense switchback, you’ll see written, “Al rifugio del Pirata”, an homage to the late Marco Pantani, one of cyclings most beloved pure climbers.

After the Passo Duran and Staulanza

The Giro d’Italia used this climb up the Tre Cime di Lavaredo a couple years ago and if you need inspiration you’ll get it from passing over names of famous cyclists who ascended en route to a stage finish. (One year they used this climb after an epic stage that included an ascent up the Giau earlier in the day.)

The climb up to the Tre Cime di Lavaredo is the steepest (note – sustained 19%). On most climbs the switchbacks are less steep than the straight bits, however, on the Tre Cime the switchbacks are steeper.

The view at the top is amazing and worth the extra half kilometer at your max heart rate to get to the top-most parking lot above the hut and lower parking area. From here the horizon opens up in every direction with the towering Tre Cime di Lavaredo behind, patting you on the back for a job well done.

The Passo Duran

Ascending the Passo Duran from the town of Agordo is the recommended route. A couple kilometers into the climb you’ll notice painted on the road, the words, “Once in a lifetime”, nobody claims to know the exact who or why behind the words.

One possible explanation Dan and Igor offered is the descent. Most of the descents in the Dolomites are smooth, well paved, swaths offering plenty of cornering space. The Passo Duran however requires a bit more attention to the front wheel and speed. Narrow, rough road, wheel-eating cracks, tight turns, but don’t let this description detract you from the climb, it just means you’ll have a good reason to take the descent slowly, giving you time to enjoy the view of the forested surroundings.

The first time I climbed Passo Duran and saw the words written at the bottom I made a pact with myself to defy them. And in keeping the promise I like to think my two ascents up the Duran meant I lived two lifetimes during that first trip.

Alex Newport-Berra doing what he loves, riding his bike uphill

Rating: 5.0/5 (2 votes cast)

Alpabzug

Sep 12th, 2009

by dolomitesport.

2 comments

Her Majesty, the cow

And now for something completely different.

Alpabzug

No sports, no gear reviews, nothing to do with making your heart beat quickly.

Just cows, the end of summer, beer and a lot of European tradition.

Alpabzug: The traditional celebration of the end of summer where the cows are brought down from the high Alps to the valley floors for the coming winter. Everyone turns out for this party in their best lederhosen. Even the cows get into the spirit and dress accordingly, wearing their finest bells and bouquets.

Each family has its turn through the villages, walking their cows through, letting them fertilize the landscaping, and generally entertaining everyone as only cows can do. That is pretty much it. Come evening, while the cows are chomping on pasture grass and the oddity of the day is long forgotten, the humans are chewing their bratwurst and chasing it all down with liters of beer.

P.S. Due to being hassled by native German speakers I must mention that Alpabzug is more of a Swiss German term, in high German, it is Almabzug. An Alp is the same as an Alm, it is a family farm for livestock; cows, goats, sheep, etc… in the higher mountains and only used in the summer months.

Rating: 5.0/5 (2 votes cast)

Pfunderer Höhenweg

Aug 21st, 2009

by dolomitesport.

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The Pfunderer Hohenweg

The Pfunderer Höhenweg Hiking Tour

Late in the fall of 2008, we found ourselves on one of the best ridge line trails we had ever seen. We were trail running the Sud Tirol’s Pfunderer Höhenweg in the Zillertal Alpen above Bruneck and wanted to see a summit we know locals frequent for post work exercise, the Sambock. Once on top, the trail dropping off the north side of the summit came into view and for as far as our eyes could see, stayed right on the high ridge line until it disappeared into some higher mountains.

High above Bruneck with views to the Marmolada and the Dolomites

“What is this?” Maps would need consulting. It turns out the trail is the Pfunderer Höhenweg Hiking Tour (Alta Via di Fundres in Italian) and stretches from Sterzing (Vipiteno in Italian) to Bruneck (Brunico). While traditionally done as a 5-6 day hiking tour with huts available each night, we decided to see if the whole trail was as good as the first section for running. In June 2009 we set out with our best friend Andreas Irsara carrying only small hydration packs to run its approximate 75 kilometers – but in 3 days.

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Starting in Bruneck, we once again climbed to the summit of the Sambock where the trail becomes mostly runnable for the entire first day. Sticking to the same ridgeline we had seen the year before, the trail goes up and over numerous peaks while providing unobscured views to both the Dolomites in the south and the high alpine, glacier covered Zillertal Alpen peaks to the north. The trail continues like this for several kilometers before climbing a small pass, La Portella, and then a drop to the Tiefrastenhutte (Rifugio Lago della Pausa). This would traditionally be a stopping point and for us it was, but only for a pasta, we would continue on to the Edelrauthutte.

Dinnertime in the Edelrauthutte

The next section of trail gets into some higher elevation and we discovered that the reason we were seeing no one on the trail was because much of it was snow covered. The winter of 2009 was a massive one and all the passes from here forward were still buried. But there are advantages to this – direct lines and fast descents. Cold, soaked feet seem a small price to pay.

Once at the Edelrauthutte we were greeted by Anton Weissteiner, quite possibly the kindest hut warden I have ever had the pleasure of meeting. We were his guests for the night, and having been open only one day, we were able to take advantage of his enthusiasm for the coming season. A four course meal satisfied our 33 kilometer hunger. Seeing how disgustingly full we were, Anton saw fit to provide us with multiple glasses of grappa to aid in digestion, it certainly aided in sleeping.

The Edelrauthutte

The next morning we set out on a modified route. Anton warned us of too much snow to cross a pass where ladders must be climbed. But a variation to the trail was no problem and we were on our way to the Bodenalm Hut and a quick late morning strudel before once again entering the high, snow covered alpine areas. For us the second day was both roaring hot and ice cold. Dropping down low above the Pfundertal had us on south facing slopes and sweating. From here we climbed and climbed until we were on north facing slopes to the pass below the Punta Riva. In a completely white world we began questioning why we were doing this, in running shoes and lycra. Soaked and a bit frozen, we reached the col and were rewarded with a direct, snow covered line to the Brixner Hut 400 meters below. Minutes later, we were drying out and drinking coffee.

Lago Selvaggio, still quite frozen in June

So far the trail, the terrain, and the huts had been perfect. One day remained for our itinerary and it looked to be a different kind of terrain as we would be lower in elevation before dropping to Sterzing. But first more snow covered passes, the Rauhtaljoch is the morning’s climb to 2800 meters, and here we were once again in a white world all the way down to the Lago Selvaggio which was still frozen solid. Luckily all the snow was hard enough for us to stay on top of which actually made for faster speeds. Yet another pass above the lake before an enormous drop to the Simile Mahdalm, a small farmers home which looks deceptively like a hut but is in fact a working farm. And here the Pfunderer Hohenweg began to fall apart. Until this point the trail, while even snow covered, was very obvious. But now the trail became a faint goat path and climbed as steep as any trail I have ever seen. Vertical dirt is not easy to run. But we gained elevation quickly like this and soon were on top of the final pass, the Passo di Trens (Trenserjoch).

The descent to Sterzing

Here, once again the trail is a faint line through grassy terrain. We wondered if anyone actually does this section, the landscape is fantastic and would be a fitting ending to a superb tour, but really, the trail needs some work. Soon we were on the final drop to Sterzing through lush green forests and trails with more traffic. The temperatures were going up and gelato was on our minds.

Overall the Pfunderer Hohenweg gets a B. For running it is perhaps a bit steep in places, but overall very runnable and high quality. For hiking, it is beautiful although there are many other trails a bit more interesting. The area around the Edelrauthutte is the best in terms of mountain environment while the rest of the trail is very indicative of the the lower Zillertal Alpen Group. One thing I certainly realized after doing this trail was that I had seen the area, from the lower slope goat and cow farms to high rocky ridges, to alpine terrain. The huts were superb, the food fantastic and being a point to point, a rewarding journey. The Pfunderer Hohenweg is recommended.

Please please please… If you do the Pfunderer Hohenweg, we’d love a trip report of your own. We have seen a number of Google Searches for the trek come to us, there is not that much info out there on this great trail.

Leaving the Brixner Hut

Dinner at the Brixner Hut

Rating: 0.0/5 (0 votes cast)

Maratona dles Dolomites Photos & Story

Jul 6th, 2009

by dolomitesport.

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Cyclists in the Maratona dles Dolomites starting on the Passo Campolongo

Being a professional photographer and bike racer, I have been to and competed in many, many events. None more beautiful, special, and well organized than the Maratona dles Dolomites. The fact that 23,000 people apply for entry to the 9000 openings says something. It is a worthy event to take part in.

Cyclists in the Maratona dles Dolomites

In 2007 I was top American finisher, placing 130th overall. This year Janine and I were two of the official photographers of the event and fortunate enough to be provided with helicopter and motorcycle support. For me, it was an amazing experience to get to see the event as an outsider after having been so focused on being an insider. The course is my home training ground, I know it well, and so to travel along, watching others enjoying it, and shoot was a true joy.

I was immediately struck by the fun people are having. In contrast is the focus, determination, and aggression at the front of the course. This compared to the back where groups gather, laugh, stop to eat and drink at the feeds and generally soak in the experience for all it is worth. Throughout the day I was

A switchback in the Maratona dles Dolomites

mightily impressed by many things; a terrible crash by a 60 year old man who was wrapped in gauze before insisting to continue, numerous handicap participants, some folks pushing more mass than others on the climbs, but probably more than anything, the age range. Getting on in years myself I am always inspired to see fully ripped, tan, lean 70+ year old cycling machines.

In many ways, the Maratona dles Dolomites is a celebration of cycling. There may be no better venue to host such a truly unique course where one climbs a massive pass, descends to the bottom only to begin the next, 9 times in all. And all through the breathtaking scenery of the recently named UNESCO site, the Italian Dolomites.

This is a collection of our photos made on a day where we could do as we please. In looking at the photos, it was clearly our desire to place the cyclists within the magic of this landscape, both for the man made features as well as the natural. We hope the result does honor to the event.

2009 Maratona dles Dolomites Photos : by PatitucciPhoto

Rating: 5.0/5 (1 vote cast)

Maratona dles Dolomites Cycling Week

Jul 4th, 2009

by dolomitesport.

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Undeniably, the Maratona dles Dolomites is one of the greatest cycling events in the world. One day, nearly 10,000 riders, 140 km, 9 passes, 4200 meters of climbing and all amongst one of the world’s most spectacular landscapes, the Italian Dolomites.

Leading up to race day is the Maratona dles Dolomites week, which grows each day as more and more cyclists pour into Alta Badia to pre-ride the area. This year I decided I would ride each day of the week to enjoy the buildup, meet some new people and get my fill of riding in before Sunday’s main event. I am not racing this year, Janine and I have been made the Official Photographers for the Maratona dles Dolomites. I will be on a motorbike following the race while Janine will be hovering above in a helicopter.

To attempt to describe the scene of Maratona dles Dolomites week is futile, it must be experienced. The Dolomites become like an ant hill bursting with activity. There is movement everywhere of the two wheel, non-mechanized variety. For the cyclist, you are home. It is wonderful.

My first morning was sunny and warm, I hopped on the road in La Villa, right at the start line and found myself immediately amongst countless riders, packs, and tour groups all heading toward Corvara and the Campolongo, the first pass of the Maratona dles Dolomites. So thick was the cycling traffic that the cars actually came to a standstill. Not being able to squeeze by in the gutter, I pulled up behind the last car alongside a small group of riders. They looked at me and with Dutch accents asked how I thought the weather would play out for the day. “Rain”, was my simple answer.

“Ah, you speak English”. The traffic started rolling and so too our conversation. Four Dutch riders here for the Maratona, and this was the first cycling day for them. We were headed on the same passes so I asked to join in. They were clearly having fun and more seemed imminent.

As we climbed the Campolongo, I inquired if they had ever been to the Dolomites. “Well, kind of, I did ride the Giro d’Italia 4 times but really never saw the area other than the wheels in front of me.”

“Wait, you rode the Giro d’Italia?”

2 X-Pros finally enjoying the Dolomites

“Yes, and the Tour, myself four times, Jan here did it five times”.

I was impressed.

And so began several days of exactly what I suspected – fun. That first day we did the Passo Giau, on top of which we found ourselves in a massive thunderstorm and ducking into the restaurant on the pass we found ourselves wedged into a corner amongst hundreds of other cyclists all waiting out the rain. Later we all bundled up as best we could to descend wet roads towards Cortina before the climbs back to La Villa. I joined them for the remainder of the days leading up to race day and had no shortage of laughs. The youngest of the group, Martijn, has been riding for only 2 years, and coming from Holland had literally never descended before. Learning to descend in the Dolomites is like learning to kayak at Niagra Falls. After only a couple of days he was ripping along without problems. He is going to do well on Sunday.

Finally, last night, both Janine and I joined them for a big dinner. Here a truth struck me. I am not doing the race and yet I am experiencing the Maratona dles Dolomites, and I may even be experiencing it in a way that is more special than the event itself. For the 9000 entries to the cycling race almost 20,000 apply. I continually hear how disappointed people are for not getting in. But wait a minute… It may still be experienced. I sit here today on the eve of the race, feel no stress for competing, I’ve made new friends, heard some great stories, spent an amazing week on the bike, and besides these Dutch also met numerous other fun people.

If you don’t make the 2010 registration you can still make the Maratona.

–check back in later this coming week to see our images from the Maratona dles Dolomites itself.

The Maratona may be followed via Twitter hash tag #mdd09

We’ll be posting fun cycling pics and reporting in at: http://twitter.com/dolomitesport

For now, a few iPhone pics from riding this week