Italy

Dolomites and Zillertal Backcountry Skiing

DolomiteSport has dropped off the radar a bit this last week due to a super busy schedule. A friend from the US, Brandyn Roark Gray, is here enjoying the Dolomites and Zillertal Region and we are of course shooting backcountry skiing each day. The usual list of comments are coming from her about this area, the primary of which is, “Wow, this place is amazing, why don’t more Americans know about it?” …….I am doing my best to share.

I had the great pleasure of discovering that my close friend and Mountain Guide, Alberto De Giuli, was booked for five days of work with two North Americans who discovered the opportunity of a Dolomite trip after finding this website and getting inspired to have a look at the Dolomites. Alberto was with them at a nearby hut so Brandyn and I set off to meet them for a ski and dinner at the Fanes Hut. For me, huge rewards come from showing the Dolomites and Zillertal Mountains to people – and especially to see them marvel as I have at what I feel is the most beautiful and culturally perfect place I have seen on this earth.

Brandyn Roark Gray climbing the Zillertal Alpen's Hörnspitze

Ski touring the Dolomites Cresta Bianca

Alberto De Giuli scores a 10 with his Ski Roll

Dolomites Ski Touring with the Tre Cime di Lavaredo behind

The Fanes Hut, Italian Dolomites

Interior of the Fanes Hut. Yes, it is in the backcountry

The Fanes Hut kitchen

Alberto De Giuli with some very happy visitors

Rating: 5.0/5 (2 votes cast)

Dolomite Skiing | Sella Group Couloirs

Jan 7th, 2010

by dolomitesport.

1 comment

Text and photos Francesco Tremolada | ProGuide.it

Skiing the Sella Group, the Kingdom of Couloirs

Sitting in the heart of the Italian Dolomites and rising above some of the region’s most famous villages is The Sella Group. Simply put, it takes your breath away. With its massive towers and labyrinth like corridors, it is a tremendous rock formation. Consisting of many different peaks it is a complex structure: all sides are rocky and vertical, and yet the top is flat. At its base there are four valleys linked together by the most efficient lift system in the world. This circuit, all on groomed pistes, is called the “Sellaronda” and runs around this mountain offering unforgettable views on each side. Skiers come from all over the world to spend a full day circumnavigating this island of stone on perfect alpine pistes.

At first glance, it seems to be a mountain impossible to ski, but a closer look reveals many different “white snakes” coming down from the top plateau through the coloured walls. These are the famous couloirs of the Dolomites. The Sella is the best place if you want to know them and understand the feeling of couloir skiing.

The Sass Pordoi cable car is the “door” of the kingdom and in only a few minutes we are on the top of the Altiplano, close to 3000 meters where the air is always cold and views to the Marmolada and beyond, stunning.
A tourist asks us where are we going with skis, because there are no pistes here and from the terrace you can only see huge cliffs… He doesn’t know that it is possible to move on the Altiplano and reach many hidden off-piste descents.
We start to ski on the flat summit of Sass Pordoi making the first track in 15 centimeters of fresh snow; the day is cold and sunny and I can feel the excitement of the guys who are skiing with me.
The first turns are a good warm up and in few minutes we reach the forcella Pordoi; the temptation to ski the south couloir or the north side (Lasties Valley) without tracks is very strong, but our goal is Piz Boè at 3152 meters, the highest peak of the group. For this, it is always better to go before it will becomes too warm.
We start to traverse toward the Mesdì valley, the most famous off-piste itinerary of the area, a kind of “Vallèè Blanche” of the Dolomites.
But before its starting point we move right and start climbing with crampons on over the easy but rocky west ridge of Piz Boè. We’re headed for the little hut on the summit.
Now it’s time for a rest, close to the wood wall of the hut where we are protected by the wind and where the sun is stronger. From here the view is unbelievable and we can see in distance other skiers walking to Mesdì Valley and a group skinning up to north side of the Altiplano toward the Setus Valley, one of the best traverse of the Sella group.
In few minutes we start the ritual to get ready for the descent: crampons into the backpack, boots tightened, skis on, goggles, skipoles…rock and roll.
The northest face is wide and quite steep. Many people say that skiing a couloir is frightening, and here this is maybe a little true, because from where we start we can see the valley under your skis! It is time to find out.Thanks to the good snow, we all drop in and make perfect turns to reach the next starting point to the “Val delle Fontane”, an incredibly steep couloir which is hidden from the top. Here is the only possibility to ski down this side of Sella.
We are lucky, the sun has softened the snow in just the right amount. The couloir requires perfect snow for skiing.
Thankfully, the rope remains in the backpack and we start to ski the 40° corridor with jump turns between the gold and orange walls. With blue sky above our heads, we all descend, smiling, to the valley.
The ride is a pleasure and quickly the couloir is wide enough for longer turns. The skis move the surface of the snow drawing a perfect track behind. Stops are only for brief rests, to take pictures and to see the others in action (and to breathe!), but we prefer not to stop too much or it feels as if our “dream” is escaping.
At the end of the gully we have to traverse right to reach the open slopes; now it’s easier, there is no longer tension, but the snow is starting to be heavy …and our legs too.
Once we reach the lifts at the bottom we look back up to see our tracks in the couloir. They always seem to be much steeper from this perspective and I can see the satisfaction in the eyes of my client. This brings me great joy, to reveal the passages that are hidden in this great mountain.
But it’s only lunch time, if we keep moving the snow on the north side will still be good…

Francesco Tremolada is a UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain and Ski Guide based in the Italian Dolomites

Francesco works with Corvara’s Alta Badia Guides School and specializes in steep skiing. He has countless hard descents to his credit, many with clients in both the Dolomites and the Alps.

He is also the author of the new guidebook “Freeride in Dolomiti”, unarguably the finest guide for skiing in the Dolomites.

Contact : info@proguide.it

Phone +39 339 105 5653

www.proguide.it

(DolomiteSport Sidenote – I would like to personally say thank you to Francesco for his contribution. Also, to add that for most any skier who dreams of dropping into these famous couloirs, they are not easy to find… using the services of a mountain guide will be appreciated)

Rating: 5.0/5 (3 votes cast)

Ortler Ski Tour | Italy

Dec 18th, 2009

by dolomitesport.

2 comments

The Ortler Ski Tour is all about decadence

What makes a trip stand out above others? Why do a few experiences immediately come to mind when looking back on our greatest memories? For me, when I asked this question of myself getting ready for this 5 part series on our favorite trips, the Ortler Tour in Italy was right there.

The Gran Zebru / König Spitze

We had done the Haute Route twice, the Berner Oberland twice and countless other Euro grand and mini tours. Setting out on the Ortler was just another week in the big mountains, afterall, it didn’t have the famous name recognition of some of the other big tours.

It became quickly apparent that we were entering a special place when I first laid eyes on the Gran Zebru, or Königspitze in German. It did help that it had just dumped a hefty quantity of winter powder in early April, but still, the terrain was noticeably big, dramatic and unlike other big mountains, loaded with couloirs and natural ski lines.

And we hadn’t even discovered the huts at this point, we were still in the tram getting to the start.

Skiing the Cevedale

From Sölden we rode lifts to the end of the line before hopping over a small ridge line and a drop to the Martello Valley. From the bottom of the descent we climbed a long and gradual valley to the Rifugio Martello. Here we had it confirmed, we love Italy and the Huts are the best.

Private rooms, bath, a menu for dinner, coffee machine, and full bar were the norm. Decadence we weren’t used to. Things were looking up and it was only day 1.

The next day we climbed the Cevedale, arguably the most classic peak to do while on the tour. The Cevedale proved good, but a thick fog prevented full appreciation. However, the seemingly hour long descent did catch our attention and was made even better when we arrived at our home hut for the next few days, the Rifugio Branca.

View from the Branca Hut

Once again we greeted and shown to our private rooms by kind Italian hut keepers, not grumpy, bitter versions found elsewhere. The Branca Hut is centrally located in the Ortler Group and for many parties serves as a kind of basecamp. We opted for a three night stay before moving on. It seemed a wise choice as right outside the windows was enough terrain for a lifetime. We were home.

At this point the Ortler was beginning to prove itself as our favorite tour. The Haute Route is an amazing journey through some of the most dramatic mountain terrain in the world. The skiing can be great, but really the Haute Route is all about getting from point A (Chamonix) to point B (Zermatt). In that window of time there are countless little unpleasant items that may shut you, and your Haute Route, down. As a result, the Haute Route has its own energy. Go go go. Skiers are most concerned with succeeding each day. The Ortler, being a loop, or in and out, or really whatever you so desire, is all about fun – or, all about skiing.

Headed to Punta San Matteo

Being at the same hut, especially one so cush as the Branca, for three days, and skiing as you please – this was like being on holiday. Stress free, lighter yet packs, joining in with new friends met at the hut and of course the Italian food and drink. Paradise. One even stops caring about getting weather days and can enjoy a day spent socializing over a bottle of wine and a pasta.

Two women ski touring in the Ortler Range

Right out the door of the Rifugio Pizzini

After four days of this life, it was time to move on to the next hut, the Rifugio Pizzini. From the Branca it is a quick ski down and then skin up alongside a small creek to the Pizzini. Here we were met by a large Bernese, the smell of coffee and a large open face behind the hut who’s corn crop was in dire need of harvest. We petted the dog, threw back several coffees and went farming until dinner.

Here, I discovered Claudio Compagnoni, the owner and undoubtedly kindest, most fun hut keeper in Europe. At most huts you are a client, some you are a guest, but at the Pizzini you are home. The hut was renovated in 2002 and the result is a modern, comfortable building made for big, partying groups of fun seeking mountain athletes.

Our original plan was to stay one night before moving on yet again, but the hut proved impossible to leave. From the Pizzini we spent three days exploring the terrain around the hut including the mighty Gran Zebru.

One issue with beginning your tour on the Sölden side and ending it with a visit to the Pizzini, is that you must get back to Sölden. The out requires an extremely steep climb to the Rifugio Casati before a complicated glacier descent back to Sölden. There is a lot of room for error on the climb, and on the descent. Here, local knowledge is key. Should you get stuck at the Pizzini (really not such a bad prospect, I could spend a winter there) and really need to get out, you will need to head west to Santa Caterina, then Livigno, and figure out an extremely complicated transit system back around to the other side, which could literally take two days. The rule, don’t get stuck at the Pizzini if you have a flight to catch.

Skiing the glacier descent of Punta San Matteo

Luckily, our week on the Ortler proved uneventful. So good was the trip that we went straight back the following year, however conditions were not so nice and we spent the bulk of our time inside. Yet still, the trip was a great one and kept the Ortler as “Best Of” in the ski tour category.

So, what does make a trip stand out above all the others like it? Good weather and snow certainly helps, but the combination of a great landscape and kind people close the deal. The Ortler delivers at every level, providing everything we want from a big European ski tour.

Endless ski terrain in the Ortler Group and Dolomites

Michael Silitch on the summit of Punta San Matteo

Amy Rasic in the Ortler Group

Michael Silitch skiing beneath the Gran Zebru

Ski touring beneath seracs

Michael Silitch beneath a serac

The Pizzini Hut at night

The author having had his fill

Interested in skiing the Ortler Tour? It is a serious undertaking given the nature of the terrain. Glacial hazards, navigation and the logistics make it a complicated tour. If you are not fully comfortable in this sort of terrain, or new to European ski touring logistics, a UIAGM Mountain Guide is highly recommended. A few of our good friends are:

Michael Silitch at High-Alpine Mountain Guides

Mark Houston & Kathy Cosley at Cosley Houston

Alberto de Giuli

Rating: 5.0/5 (1 vote cast)

Dolomite Alta Via 1 Mountain Hut Impressions

Oct 21st, 2009

by dolomitesport.

No comments yet

A trend is developing. Each time we ask someone from the USA to contribute to DolomiteSport a consistent topic seems to emerge; the mountain huts, their decadence and convenience.

This fall we helped Sue Johnston and Chris Scott make plans for hiking the Alta Via 1. When it was finished they kindly put together a story of their primary impression. The topic; the mountain hut.

Chris and Sue come from outside Ventura, California. Sue is a two time time winner of Colorado’s Hardrock Ultra as well as numerous other 100 miles races. She also holds the speed record for the John Muir Trail. More info about Sue can be read at Salomon Running or her blog’s Dolomite entry, RunSueRun.

Thanks to Sue Johnston and Chris Scott for the text below.

Rifugio = Mountain Hut. “Mountain Hut” usually conjures up a one room, rough hewn, log cabin hidden deep in the wilderness below a dense canopy, offering brief respite to the wandering hiker in search of flat and dry ground, a roof over one’s head, perhaps escape from persistent mosquitoes, yet maybe a mouse or two for company. After you’ve heated your dinner and stretched your sleeping bag over the floor, and night has stolen daylight, only your headlamp reminds you of dimension within the hut’s walls.

The reality of rifugi (plural of “hut”) in the Dolomites is quite the opposite. Think: “this is the best aid station I’ve ever visited!” and then repeat that experience about every 10K, or in some cases, within spitting distance of the next. Now envision the Dolomite mountain hut offering commanding views in almost every direction. Welcome to Italy!

Rifugi dot the trail at seemingly designed intervals. The proximity of one rifugio to the next encourages you to pack light – you’ll need only your choice of clothing for the length of your trek. But what about food? Since the staff at each rifugio spends its entire season there, they’ll be well fed. If they’re well fed, you’ll be well fed, too. This equates to a full menu of delightful treats.

Complementing the menu is beer on tap and a well-stocked bar, further enhanced by local grappas. For lack of clear translation, grappa is Italian for moonshine, only here in various flavors and colors. As our new Italian friend suggested, “take a hit, roll the grappa across your teeth with your tongue, then breathe in quickly through bared teeth. You’ll get snockered quicker!” It almost worked.

Most rifugi also offer hotel-equivalent accommodations, as well; the loftier and more remote rifugi perhaps bunk beds. On our five day hike of Alta Via 1, we survived one bunk bed group snorefest, the other nights in private rooms listening to just our own snoring. Truthfully, even the snorefest wasn’t problematic – we were tired enough from each day’s hike that we could have slept through the finale of the 1812 Overture. Full stomachs from dinner created a lethargy that made sleep easy; we justified the bulging stomachs as investment for the next day’s hike.

Up early for breakfast. Salami and cheese panini for later on the trail. Visit another rifugio down trail for more coffee. Stop every 100 meters to take in another spectacular, breathtaking vista. Enjoy an afternoon break for more coffee and snacks. Then press on to make it to the day’s end rifugio in time for a warm shower, happy hour, dinner, and another night’s sleep between sheets.

Lather, rinse, repeat… for as many days as you can afford and are willing to enjoy. The tease is to linger at any one rifugio, for each designs to keep you in the clutches of endless hospitality. Of course, avoid the tease, as more of the same awaits you at the next rifugio. When (not if) you decide to run/hike the Alta Via 1, anticipate the rifugi pampering – you’ll re-define your standards for ultras’ aid station fare!! Hope you enjoyed reading our impressions of the Alta Via 1.

Rating: 5.0/5 (2 votes cast)

Dean Karnazes

Oct 12th, 2009

by dolomitesport.

2 comments

Dean Karnazes: Looks mean doesn't he? Not true. Voted great guy by PatitucciPhoto

Two trail runners in the Italian Dolomites

Calves of Karnazes

Dean Karnazes Ultramarathon Man

I remember seeing Dean Karnazes for the first time. It was at the Rucky Chucky river crossing during the Western States 100 Mile Race. He stuck in my memory because he was the only guy who came through looking like he had just started. Or maybe it was the calves. Or, maybe it was the smile and cheery nature which he always seems to have, whether it be at mile 3 or mile 300. The guy can run. And he can motivate others to run.
These are the traits I like about Dean. He has an energy that fuels others, whether it be meeting him in person, running alongside him, reading his international best selling book Ultramarathon Man, or watching him on Letterman. Dean looks like he could be your pal. The reality is, he can be. He’s that kind of guy.

Dean Karnazes in California, 2004

As a standalone piece, Dean’s personal resume reads like a bestseller. 50 marathons in 50 days in all 50 US States. 350 miles in one go… A TIME Magazine poll declared Dean in the “Top 100 Most Influential People in the World”. All of this yet still I have seen Dean criticized from some within the running community. A minority believes he isn’t what he is made out to be. The arguments… If he is so great, why hasn’t he won more races? And why all the hype? Why the attention and money that goes along with it? Real trail runners don’t seek media attention, they seek the experience and the joy of running.

These comments have always irritated me. Never have I seen Dean claim to be anything other than a really psyched guy. That, as well as happy, motivated, and genuinely in love with running and helping others. Dean has done more to motivate people to try running than probably any other human. He has raised money for charity and he has made a lot of friends along the way. I don’t see Dean so focused on winning races, I see Dean wanting to enjoy races.

Janine and I are fortunate to call Dean a friend and to have spent a fair bit of time with him, both for photos and for fun. I recently asked him about how he felt hearing this criticism, his answer was very Dean.

“It used to depress me to read this stuff, but 99% of the comments I get are positive, so to hell with those who criticize others. I just came off winning the 4 Deserts Championship (which TIME magazine called “The world’s toughest multiday endurance event”) and finishing runner-up at the Canadian Death Race, so I guess you’ll never please all of the people.”

And the charity figures he has raised? “I have raised over a million dollars for kids charities across the globe, including help to save the lives of three young children awaiting critical organ transplants.”

Getting to do what you love each and everyday, being healthy, happily married, a father, a responsible role model and contributing to both society and to targeted charities… I call this success.

Dean Karnazes encountering sheep on trail

Dean trying to converse with some Italian locals

In 2004 we did a mountain trail running endurance photoshoot for The North Face in Cortina d’Ampezzo, right in the heart of the Italian Dolomites. I vividly remember it was August 1st, and there was about 8 cm of fresh snow on the ground for a 4 a.m. departure at the car. It was a summer shoot and we were all bundled up in little more than shorts and long sleeve shirts. Luckily the sun came out, the skies turned blue and we could resume the action. Poor Dean was asked to wear some very Euro shorts, a bit tighter and shorter than he would have liked, but that would be a compliment to his calves. Dean, always in good spirits, obliged.

After this, we saw Dean several more times, once in California for a photoshoot for his book, and then several more times in Europe.
Dean Karnazes’s longtime partner in crime, and our mutual friend, Topher Gaylord, was living in the Italian Dolomites with his wife Kim. Dean would come over and join them for some long days trail running in the area around Cortina. I wanted to get Dean’s take on the Dolomites and to find out what one thing stood out as unique about his time running in the region. His response comes as no surprise.

Thanks to Dean for writing this up as he was recovering from his Chicago Double Marathon yesterday. I actually Twittered him while he was running to remind him about this piece being due, and he got right on it today – again, the kind of guy he is…

Dean Karnazes and Topher Gaylord trail running in the Dolomites

Dean on the Lagazoui's Hut deck, Viva Italia

“My good friend, Topher Gaylord, was living in Italy and managing The North Face European office. He and his wife, Kim, had a little weekend pad in Cortina they’d dash up to almost every weekend. Topher used to rave at how fantastic the trail running was in the Dolomites, about theses incredible hut-to-hut overnight runs he would do.
Now, I was a bit skeptical. Having raced and competed on all 7 of the earth’s continents, I had seen some remarkable places. The thought of schlepping from one grungy hut to another, miserable and cold, didn’t sound all that appealing. I’d crashed in mountain huts before, and there was nothing glamorous about it.
What I learned on my eventual visit to the Dolomites is that the Italians use the word “hut” very loosely. After running through what turned out to be some of the most spectacular mountains I have ever seen, I wasn’t necessarily looking forward to a cold night on the floor of a hut, pouch of dehydrated food partially cooked, surrounded by other smelly hikers runners. Wow…was I wrong.

The “hut” was more like a fully stocked palace! The beds (yes, beds!) were warm and comfortable, and the food, prepared on-site by a top chef, was amazing! I couldn’t believe my eyes. How they possibly got all of this stuff to this remote mountain location was anyone’s guess. Not that I cared!

We toasted our run with a glass of fine Italian wine as we watched the distant sunset from the 180 degree view from the patio of the hut. In my wildest dreams, I never could have imagined such luxury. All I can say is Viva Italia!

To learn more about Dean, be sure to visit his impressive site: Ultramarathon Man – better yet, read his book, it is fantastic.

Dean Karnazes trail running in the Italian Dolomites

Karnazes in the Dolomites near the Falzarego Pass

Dean Karnazes trail running in the Italian Dolomites

Dean Karnazes is also part of The North Face Endurance Team, more info can be found at The North Face

Rating: 5.0/5 (6 votes cast)

Trail Running & Mountain Biking

Oct 8th, 2009

by dolomitesport.

2 comments

Rene Pitscheider and Luca Tiezza

We have been working with some friends to create some tourism marketing material to promote the Dolomites for trail running and mountain biking. A collaborative video project showing off the region’s offerings is in the works and will be ready to post this coming winter. Our goal with this new image collection is to really show off the Dolomite’s trails, landscape, and exactly what awaits the visiting mountain sports athlete. Stay tuned for upcoming new services from friends and partners of DolomiteSport – much is in the works.

For now, PatitucciPhoto’s stills from the last week. Follow us on Twitter at DolomiteSport