Thanks to Manuel Riz www.manuelriz.blogspot.com

The Problem of Too Many Motorcycles in the Dolomites

(Note 12/19/11 : Thanks to so much great support, this post is getting a ton of traffic, BUT – having views means nothing if we are going to show it to the powers that can do something about this problem, PLEASE – Leave a comment)

Update April 28, 2012. Each of the major tourism offices around the Dolomite’s Sellaronda as well as Sudtirol tourism were contacted about this issue. All but Alta Badia refused to comment. Alta Badia asked, “What motorcycle problem?”

It’s time to bring up a nasty subject that many who visit the Dolomites experience in a very negative way. For years now I have felt growing anger and frustration for the thousands of motorcycles that come to the Italian Dolomites. I finally brought it up to locals, business owners and my athlete friends and promptly discovered I’m not the only one who feels this way. So angry are they that the subject is almost painful to discuss, for it seems nothing is being done about it. I however, am more than happy to publicly state my thoughts and make it clear that these motorcycles are a cancer to this amazing region.

Motorbikes on the Passo Gardena

The Dolomites are unarguably one of the world’s most beautiful landscapes and everyone has the right to experience them. But why is one user group allowed to negatively impact the experience of all the others while at the same time causing numerous disturbances to the natural environment in the forms of noise and exhaust pollution as well as a very real threat to the safety of others.

The problem is that motorcyclists come from all over Europe to ride the Dolomite’s famously steep and curvy mountain roads. This is fine as an activity, but the manner in which all too many do it is completely irresponsible on the part of both the riders and local authorities.

This last summer was my first spent climbing some of the walls in the Dolomites. Nowhere is the issue of these motorcycles more apparent than up high where there should be no sound but the wind and jingling of climbing gear. Yet here, the roar of motorcycles is a nearly nonstop irritant. They are so loud it is often impossible to hear one’s partner. Numerous friends came for both climbing and cycling and all made the same comment, “This is disgusting”.

And the Dolomites are a UNESCO World Heritage Site? What a joke. It would be better named the UNESCO International Motor Speedway.

The Dolomites UNESCO Status

This from the UNESCO Page regarding the criterion of managing the Dolomites in accordance with UNESCO Requirements:

“The property requires protection from tourism pressures and related infrastructure. Each of the component parts of the serial property requires its own individual management plan, providing not only for the protection and management of land use, but also the regulation and management of human activities to maintain its values, and in particular to preserve the qualities of its natural landscapes and processes, including extensive areas which still have wilderness character. Areas that are subject to more intensive visitation need to be managed to ensure visitor numbers and activities are within the capacity of the property in relation to the protection of both its values and the experience of visitors to the property. Adequate resources and staffing, and coordination between the staff teams in the different components of the property are also essential.”

Seemingly nothing is adhered to. Protection from infrastructure? They just keep building; pistes, lifts, hotels, access roads, you name it. Maintain the values of human activities? Apparently loud motor sports are a historical activity and value. Or maybe they just see, “Maintain value”, as in €€€. Preserve the qualities of natural environment? In many places of the Dolomites it sounds like you are at the Indy speedway. And it seems the only staffing is by politicians looking to satisfy businesses within the region who everyone knows pockets most of their earnings to avoid exorbitantly high Italian tax rates.

Meanwhile, the Italian police, in their typical show of dramatic yet completely inefficient force, have set up speed traps on busy summer days. The joke is, according to Italian law they must post signs warning oncoming traffic of the impending radar check that lay just ahead. The motorcycles slow to legal speeds, pass by, then resume their ear splitting roar after the next curve in the road. …”Ha ha carabinieri. Fools.”

Or, as is well known, motorcyclists come in groups and send one rider ahead to check for police or anything that may be in the way of his friends – once all clear, he calls back and gives the go ahead for his 18 buddies to charge full bore up or down a pass. Never mind the cyclists silently pedaling along who have to listen to or be nearly taken out by the mirrors on these super bikes. The father of a close friend was killed by a motorcycle while riding his bike up a Dolomites Pass in just such a scenario.

While riding here, I have seen several serious crashes and countless near misses when they lose control in turns, or veer right into my line, when they can’t control the power of the bike they have rented.

What Can be Done?

I have heard from local businesses that there is a fear that with increased motorcycle regulations will come a decrease in revenue. But wait, motorcyclists can’t drink beer during the day. And, it is commonly known that many do not stay in hotels within the Dolomites but opt to stay outside where it is cheaper, the same place where they eat dinner so they aren’t driving at night. I asked several friends who have affordable hotels right in the Dolomites if they ever have motorcylists as guests. The answer, “Almost never”. Why can’t these businesses turn their attention to other summer tourists who also come in great numbers; hikers, cyclists, and climbers.

There are grumblings from within the region, namely from Michil Costa, a local hotel owner and well known activist who strives to keep a handle on tourism gone wild. But it would seem that like so many things, the almighty Euro speaks loudest. As tourists grow tired of the Dolomites experience, or word does get out of the problem, perhaps would be visitors will go elsewhere. All the many tourism websites and magazine articles glorifying the Italian Dolomites are not telling the whole truth. Like my friends all said, “It is disgusting”.

The only thing that may change this is if other tourists begin making it clear that these motorcycles are not tolerable. The web, forums and social media are great ways to start. Italy was one of the first countries in the EU to do something about second hand cigarette smoke in restaurants – how different is this? A solution is to remove some of the freedom these motorcycles are abusing. Have some real speed traps with huge fines, have real noise ordinances that are enforced, and multiple offenders lose the right to drive a motorbike. I do not see this problem on Swiss passes where there are regulations and consequences for breaking them. There I see motorcycles, not in the same numbers, but I see them riding slower and not making nearly the same noise.

The Impact on Dolomite Cyclists, Hikers and Climbers

Visiting mountain lovers be warned. It can be horribly obnoxious and occasionally dangerous here, so much so that I mostly refuse to ride my bike on any of the best passes from about July 1 through early September. Also, educate yourself about the German and Austrian holidays in May and June, for these periods have the Dolomites a virtual racetrack for big, fast bikes.

The Sellaronda Bike (Bicycle) Day

A move in the right direction regarding awareness comes in the form of the now twice annual Sellaronda Bike Day. This event, held early in the summer and again in mid September, draws 16,000 cyclists to enjoy the famous Sellaronda Loop, on closed roads. In addition to the cyclists are an increase in the number of hikers and climbers who can now enjoy one of the most beautiful areas of the Dolomites in silence. The event has brought about awareness and acknowledgement that these tourists, ever hungry and thirsty, bring in enormous revenue while not impacting the environment.

Have you been to the Dolomites? What was your experience?

This is where I ask for your comments. Pressure needs to be put on the region from those that come and spend money. Voice your opinion. If you have been to the Dolomites and had experiences with the motorbikes, good or bad, please let us know. Leave a comment and we’ll make sure the messages and experiences are passed on to the Tourism Board.

(Note 12/19/11 : Thanks to so much great support, this post is getting a ton of traffic, BUT – having views means nothing if we are going to show it to the powers that can do something about this problem, PLEASE – Leave a comment)

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DolomiteSport has been silent these last months. This is not due to inactivity, but the opposite – too much activity and too little time to post. The spring, summer and fall were full of trips, big days out and endless mountain sport fun. There is a long list of “To Post” topics for the slower months, which are now upon us.

And so it should start with a current event while we are in Tuscany for a week long cycling trip with good friend Alain Rumpf. The most notable event has been today’s ride from my favorite cycling town on the planet – Pienza. Here are a few photos from Alain and I’s day out, along with a brief route description and link to the ride on Strava for your GPS. This ride is special as it takes in some of the most classic Tuscan landscape, passes through numerous hilltop villages, includes fast, rolling terrain and finally a section of the famed Strade Bianche to Montalcino, the very piece used in the 2010 Giro d’Italia.

Roadside attraction just outside Pienza

Calorie stop

I know there are many passionate cyclists from all over following our going’s on – this one is for you. If you have not been to Tuscany with your bike, you really need to make some changes to that sad fact, it simply gets no better.

Pienza is arguably Italy’s most idyllic hilltop town. It is tiny, easy to drive through, park and enjoy the views to the famed Val d’Orcia which surrounds the village. There are numerous restaurants specializing in Tuscan cuisine and wine. Life is good, very, very good. We have been to Pienza for cycling four times now and always stay in the Piccolo Hotel La Valle. The owners are kind, the hotel spotless, rooms bright & fun and the breakfast abundant.

Decisions...

What makes the road riding in Tuscany so good? The region around Siena maintains the asphalt roads to keep them silky smooth, there are also the famed Strade Bianche, or white roads, the dirt roads of the epic L’Eroica, and there is nearly no traffic. What traffic there is tends to be very bicycle friendly. On a 100+km ride it is possible that you will see 5 cars, 2 of which might give you a wave. But then there is Tuscany itself – the magic feeling that makes it so unique, the immediate feeling of, “I want to live like this”, and the stunning beauty of a landscape sculpted by man into something so pleasant to view as one pedals through its vineyards, olive orchards and wheat fields. And of course the food; a Fiorentina, Brunello, Cinghiale, Olive Oil, Panforte, and the Pecorino cheese. Heaven.

This loop : Pienza – Asciano – Montalcino – Pienza can be viewed at Strava where it may also be downloaded for your GPS.

Mandatory visit to the Monte Oliveto Monastery outside Asciano

Rolling Tuscan terrain

Alain on the Strade Bianche

The last climb to Pienza

Arriving to Pienza at sunset after a day on the bike

Interested in following what we do, as we do it, via your favorite Social Media:

Twitter : DolomiteSport

Facebook : DolomiteSport

Getting there is easily done by flying into Palermo via RyanAir, renting a car and driving 90, surprisingly relaxing, minutes to the village of San Vito lo Capo on the northwest tip of the island. In my mind, Sicily was going to be chaos and a terrifying automobile experience. In fact, it was the opposite. Chaos came later at the produce stand. In the village proper of San Vito, we rented a nice apartment in late March for four people/one week, €250. Hard to beat. Much of the climbing is done within a 10 minute drive from the seaside resort village, a car is convenient although it is possible to walk to some of the more popular crags.

There is a Climbing Guide especially for Sicily and the San Vito info seemed to be pretty much spot on. But, I don’t remember seeing it, or any climbing gear, available in San Vito. Come well stocked. More recently developed areas have topos hanging at the crag, and as is typical of climbers everywhere, word spread quickly about what was worthy of visiting. Seems much of the development has been done by visiting German & Austrian climbers, the same nations providing the vast majority of visitors.

The rock is limestone and comes in all varieties, from tufa stuffed caves, to pocketed walls, slabs, stalactites, and even cracks. Some of the limestone is of such high quality and so compact, it almost appears as granite. Bolts & anchors, thanks to the Germans, are big, bomber and well placed. Overall, it is a place to climb hard and push yourself. And did I mention cappuccinos are still €1?

San Vito lo Capo and Monte Monaco

In the evening, hang at a local restaurant for freshly caught seafood. We discovered Ristorante Agora in the main part of the village and felt there was little reason to go anywhere else. Don’t miss the Insalata di Polipo, Branzino, house made pasta and then for desert, the Ricotta Mandorle. And you thought Italian food was the best…? The Sicilians really do take food to an even higher level.

Of course visiting later than April adds swimming in the clear Mediterranean to the list of to do’s. From many of the crags, this is an option in less than 5 minutes walk.

San Vito lo Capo Climbing Information & Beta

70 meter rope – 18 quickdraws

We were warned about lots of car break ins, we saw no evidence of such, but be warned.

Bring warm clothes for climbing in the caves or shade – it’s surprisingly cool near the water.

Apartments, B&B’s and Hotels are all readily available. Apartments offer the option of cooking, but then really, why would you want to do this?

Season seems to be March – mid June, then again September & October. The locals swore it wasn’t too hot in the summer, but the locals don’t climb.

Evi Gritsch at the Castle of Aragon

Pleasant seaside approach to the Bunker

Christof Ursch on something hard at the Castle of Aragon

Christof giving it all two thumbs up

The end of everyday includes this just before coiling your rope and heading to dinner

Mountain biking beneath the Geisler Group

Dolomites Mountain Biking

Italy’s Val Gardena, or Gröden in German, is one of Italy’s most famous ski destinations. But it is certainly not just for skiing, and it is only Italy by location – for this is a special valley where the look & feel is much closer to its more Germanic northern neighbors. Here, the Dolomiti are the Dolomiten – you will see and hear more German and the local Ladin than Italian, yet the food and overall flavor is distinctly that of Italy – it is the best of all worlds. Amongst it all, the Val Gardena is rapidly becoming a premier destination for mountain biking.

Seems the valley’s Tourism Offices, recognizing the value that mountain bike tourism brings, have started making the region very friendly to knobby tire athletes. An abundance of trails, mountain huts, ski lifts for those not wanting to ride so much uphill, and some of the most stunning scenery in the entire Dolomites makes the area truly worthy of a visit. And so we have started to explore and can now confirm, superb.

Where to Go in Val Gardena?

Between the villages of Selva and Ortisei (Wolkenstein and St. Ulrich) are countless hotels, and this is a great place to basecamp. Lifts run from this end of the valley up to Seceda, Alpe di Siusi and Col Reiser – all key access points for trails. For a quiet, car free location, look into staying up on the Alpe di Siusi (Seiseralm) itself.

When to Go to Val Gardena?

June – early October, although June might still be wet and snowy depending on the spring, and August could be so full of tourists you will be better off leaving your bike in the valley and walking with everyone else. August, in my opinion, is not the month to see the Dolomites if a peaceful mountain experience is desired.

Biking and Hiking in the Val Gardena

Time to be honest… the mountain biking in the Dolomites is great, but with the massive trail system, a plethora of options, and loads of dirt roads thrown into the mix, the first time visitor is going to be overwhelmed and likely thinking, “Hey, I saw all these great photos of beautiful trails, but where, and which, are they?” We have had the good fortune of being shown by locals the best trails to ride, and so for the visitor, I would suggest doing the same – getting a mountain bike guide. It will save time and insure the best experience, not to mention prevent excessive bike carrying and pushing.

Alpe di Siusi and sunset on the Sassolungo

This is not the website for detailed route descriptions and GPS coordinates. Our goal is to inspire a visit to the area and provide some services information for the next step. But, as mentioned above, key riding areas for the Val Gardena are:

Alpe di Siusi (Seiseralm) including the traverse around to the Sella Pass via the Citta di Sassi (dirt roads). The entire high plateau provides moderate and brilliant mountain biking tours with incredible views to the Sassolungo (Langkofel). Monte Pana is a good starting point.

Col Raiser – the entire upper plateau around the Rifugio Firenze (Regensburger Hut). Either ride up or take the gondola from near Selva (Wolkenstein).

Seceda – From Ortisei (St. Ulrich), take the Seceda gondola only to the mid-station, exit and ride dirt roads and trails to the Rifugio Rasciesa (Raschotz Hut) then the breathtaking path to Rifugio Brogles (Brogles Hut).

Mountain biking above Col Reiser in the Val Gardena

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WARNING: This is a very popular hiking destination as well and the trails need to be shared. There is a proposal to restrict mountain bikes to dirt roads only within the Dolomites – we don’t want to lose our trail access. Ride with respect.

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Hiking & Peak Bagging in the Dolomites Val Gardena

Mountain biking can be limiting in what it allows you access to in the very rugged, complicated Dolomites. One of our favorite things to do to take advantage of all the un-rideable terrain is to pedal in to a hut, lock the bikes, swap cycling for running shoes, and head up the big peaks. A few key ones to put on the list are the Montijela (via Selva and Rifugio Firenze), the Sasso Piatto (via Alpe di Siusi) for its position & endless views and of course the gem, the Sas Rigais’ Via Ferrata – a big, committing undertaking (Guide recommended- see below).

Recommended Val Gardena / Gröden Services

Mountain Biking Guides : DolomiteBiking.com – our closest friends, the very one’s who showed us around. Locals know best.

Tour Operator Service : Holimites.com - specializing in active, mountain sport visits to the Dolomites

Mountain Guides : Alberto De Giuli |  Marcello Cominetti |  Francesco Tremolada take your pick, all superb

Tourism Office : Val Gardena Tourism

Bike Shop for Info & Rentals : Dolomiti Adventures

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Val Gardena Cycling Events

The Sellaronda Hero is probably the highlight for mountain biking. An absolutely brutal course of 82km with 4200 meters of climbing – touted as Europe’s hardest mountain bike race.

The Sellaronda Bike Day: while not just for mountain bikers, but all cyclists, this is a special day each summer where the Dolomites roads are closed to cars throughout the famous Sellaronda loop. Bikes only = paradise. 16,000 cyclists make their way to the region for this day.

The Brogles Hut

Mountain biking above Col Reiser in the Val Gardena

Have you been to Val Gardena? We would love to hear your experience – please use the Comments section on this post to share your thoughts – thanks.

Walking through WWI trenches, Monte Lagazuoi

The bottom entrance to the Lagazuoi Gallery

A Historical Walk to Dinner through the Lagazuoi Tunnels

Part of the culture of life in the Italian Dolomites is to share a dinner with friends in one of the many mountain huts (rifugi) – for us, this is habit. Sometimes we hike, other times it’s a ski approach, maybe a trail run, or even a mountain bike ride. But last night was something unique, we arrived to the Rifugio Lagazuoi via a pitch black tunnel from WWI that ascends nearly 400 meters to the top of Monte Lagazuoi.

Our friend Carolyn is doing the Alta Via 1 and called to invite us for dinner at the hut. It was the perfect summer evening to head up and see her as well as the hut’s owner and friend Guido Pompanin. Dinner was set for 6:45 – we arrived at the trailhead at 6 and immediately took note of the trail sign indicating a two hour walk to the hut. “Merda, RUN!”

Inside the Gallery

A couple hundred meters above the parking area the trail splits; options include a long hike around the peak to it’s backside and up to the summit hut, or a tunnel going straight up within the mountain itself. The tunnel is a kind of museum as it is a perfectly preserved piece of war history. Built over a period of many months by the Italian army during WWI, the tunnel was meant to access the top and ultimately blow up the strategically located Austrian artillery placement. The monumental effort of boring through a mountain simply to then blow it up paid off and the Austrians lost there stronghold. Today, where men once lived in misery and fear, iPhone wielding tourists now strut about bound for the hut and a pasta, I was no exception.

Janine, aka Little Red Riding Hood, exiting the Gallery on top

We opted for the tunnel as it is faster and more direct and we had done it many times before – but never in a rush to make dinner. Up we went, each step inside the inky darkness gaining us a half meter. The lights from our headlamps passed over the many interior features; the soldiers living quarters, a water cistern, and many portholes in the tower’s side for dumping the stone and debris from the tunnel. Finally, we arrived at the top, exited the tunnel and like the Italian army in WWI, found not a soul about. But while the Austrian army made a rapid departure after catching wind of the impending arrival of the Italians and a potential large explosion, today’s summit inhabitants were gathered inside the Rifugio enjoying an aperitif.

After the Gallery there is an easy walk to the summit

Our own dash for the hut ended with the front door opening and Carolyn stepping out to greet us – promptly at 6:45. From the dank tunnel we suddenly found ourselves in a room full of cheer. Guido handed us towels for washing up, drinks arrived, and many friends gathered about. A fun feast was next, storytelling and a beautiful sunset making silhouettes of distant Dolomite towers. The evening became late, people wandered off to bed, we said good night, put our headlamps on and headed back to the tunnels.

The final steps to the top and the Lagazuoi Hut

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Travel in Italy’s Dolomites

A visit to the Heart of the Dolomites should certainly include a day or two exploring the Lagazuoi and Cinque Torri area. This is some of the most rugged and scenic terrain in all of the Dolomites and is accessed from any of the surrounding valley’s; Cortina d’Ampezzo (Passo Falzarego from the east), Alta Badia (Passo Valparola) or Arraba (Passo Falzarego from the west).

Rifugio Lagazuoi is accessed by trail on foot, via the tunnel described above, or by cable car (open seasonally). The common summer itinerary is cable car up, hike around the summit, lunch & nap on the Rifugio Lagazuoi’s famous deck with unrivaled views of the Dolomites, then a descent of the WWI tunnel. Headlamp required, helmet recommended.

Visit Rifugio Lagazuoi for complete information, pricing, and booking.

Also, the hut keeper, Guido, is a great photographer and thanks to the situation of the hut, gets incredible weather photos. Follow the Hut’s Rifugio Lagazuoi Facebook Page or on Twitter @rifugiolagazuoi

Guido Pompanin & Dan Patitucci inside the Rifugio Lagazuoi

The Passo Pordoi

In 2007 I did my first Maratona dles Dolomites. It was, without a doubt, one of the most rewarding days I have ever had in a competition. To stand on a Granfondo starting line with over 8000 other cyclists, at sunrise in one of the world’s most spectacular settings, with a massive day of riding ahead – and to feel the energy – is pure bliss.

Before the race I had been lucky enough to spend the six weeks leading up to the big day training in the very region – so, I was at a locals advantage of knowing the course inside and out. I had even ridden the course two times before race day. But still, I hadn’t raced it, I hadn’t pushed myself that hard yet, and I hadn’t done it with thousands of other cyclists around me.

A few friends had offered some advice, most of which I took, but one key piece I failed to act on cost me a top 100 finish. So, with this in mind, and with the Maratona fast approaching, I thought to share my thoughts on the event in the hopes that you will take something away of value. Keep in mind that after the race I had fallen so in love with the Dolomites and its rich cycling culture that I decided to call it home, I have been riding the same roads ever since 2007.

This advice is for those planning to push themselves as if it really were a race (and you’ll see, it is). For those looking to just survive, you get to simply enjoy the day, but you too must read on.

Stay in Front : This is basically impossible unless you have a starting number in the first 1000. But do your best to get by as many people as possible by the top of the second pass, the Pordoi. After the Pordoi it gets pretty tough although it does thin out. However, unless you have super climbing endurance, don’t blow up on the Sellaronda (the first loop and first 5 passes) as the Giau awaits – and it is the killer climb.

Careful on the Descents : Italians descend much closer together than Americans, it is pretty unnerving to have your leg hit someone’s handlebars at 75km/hr. Italians, being a vocal bunch, will be sure to let you know if you are screwing up. For the most part, people descend well in Europe, just relax and hold your line – practice the hairpin turns prior to racing, you’ll have the whole road on race day, use it.
The tricky sections in descent are:
Passo Pordoi : Long, fast straights into tight hairpins… just be ready for them.
Passo Sella : There is a right turn which will have flaggers standing as warning, who’s radius is longer and sharper than it looks. It is approached after a long and fast straight section after the initial turns off the Pass itself. This turn is so serious that there is an emergency medical team and helicopter on standby at the turn.
Passo Valparola : After the switchbacks on top, a long, straight section is descended at high speed. This is the approach to a tricky right turn that is sharper than it first appears, again, get to know it before race day. Though they are for motorcycles, there are grave markers in this turn for a reason…
Overall, the roads should be in great condition as many of them get re-surfaced prior to the Maratona.

The top of the Passo Giau

Aid Station food, not just bananas & bars. Buon Appetito

Eating : This was where I made my mistake. While there are impressively stocked aid stations around the entire course, you won’t be checking in for a panino crudo if you are in race mode. But, you may want to consider it, either that or have your own pockets filled with what works for you.
After the Sellaronda there is the day’s only flattish/moderate section of road, and it is here where you must get some food down. It is the section after the descent of the Campolongo, from Arabba to Andraz and then again to the Colle Santa Lucia where there is a great aid station.
After Arabba, get some calories and salt in you for the evil Passo Giau, then let it digest enroute to the start of the climb after the Colle Santa Lucia.
Now… where I made my mistake. A good friend who does the Maratona every year warned me to be sure to eat something on top of the Giau or risk bonking on the last climb of the Falzarego.
Locally, I have heard the Giau referred to as Monkey Hill, for when you are climbing it you are sure that monkeys ran out from the forest and jumped on your back. But on race day, my friend warned me it is more like Cow Hill, you’ll feel as if you have a heifer on board. Fair enough, I would agree. It is a suffer fest.
In 2007, my data chip revealed I was in 90th position on top of the Giau, I did NOT eat, I bombed down in a small group I had cimbed with. I would pay the price, for on the last climb up to the Fazarego 44 people would pass me. There I sat, crawling up the pass with visions not of finish line glory, just pizza and pasta.
Water is found throughout and will be handed to you roadside.
Eat on top of the Giau, let it digest on descent. There is an aid station.

Behave, you might be on TV, the race is televised

Gearing : I have embraced the Compact set up; 50/34 – 12/25. For me this is perfect. But I climb a lot in training and weigh 61kg (132lbs). Substituting a 12/27 could be nice.
Again, the Giau…. cows will be along for the ride.

Temperatures/Weather : Even if the day dawns clear and warm, you should be somewhat ready for anything. When riding in the Dolomites, I almost always carry a superlight rainjacket in my jersey along with a thin headband – they can save the day and weigh next to nothing. Afternoon rainshowers are pretty common.

Etiquette : Do your thing, but remember the Golden Rule (Do unto others as you would have them do unto you) as there are a lot of people around.

Do not throw your trash on the road – there will be trash cans after aid stations, use them. You are not a pro so don’t act like one, it is no big deal to put your wrappers back in your jersey. In 2009 the second place overall finisher was DSQ’d for tossing trash on live TV.

Things Not to Miss in the Dolomites

The week leading up to the race is a cyclists dream. There are daily group rides to both check out the course as well as to tick other passes not in the race. Much of the fun simply comes from being around so many nationalities; Italians, Dutch, Germans, Americans, Swiss… they are all in great abundance, making friends is easy.

To Do List

Passo delle Erbe (my personal favorite in all the Dolomites) loop: From Alta Badia; Climb the Passo Gardena, descend west to the autostrada, climb the Erbe, descend back to Val Badia via San Martino (100km, difficult)

Cortina d’Ampezzo and the Tre Croce Loop: Less than an hour (in a car) from Alta Badia is the famous posh village of Cortina. Sitting right amongst many of the Dolomite’s iconic peaks, it is well worth a day to explore. If you want to ride, check out the Tre Croce loop from Cortina that takes you through Misurina and the most famous of all Dolomite areas, the Tre Cime di Lavaredo. From there descend to Carbonin and then back to Cortina (about 50km, moderate).
Post ride, eat a Pizza Fantastica at Ristorante Ariston in Cortina – my vote for best pizza in all of Italy.

Walk up to the Rifugio Santa Croce above Pedraces (Badia): This is kind of a rest day activity, or something for the family – quite possibly the most peaceful, beautiful place in all the Dolomites. And good food… There is also the option of taking a lift nearly to the top from the village of Pedraces, or it is a one hour uphill (easy) walk through the beautiful forest.

People watching/bike gawking is as good as it gets. Grab a Gelato or Radler (beer and limonata) post pedal and soak in the fun sitting roadside in the village of Corvara. Better yet, do it daily in each village and decide which is best.

Note: in Alta Badia, the focal point of the race, all the famous villages where most racers stay (San Cassiano, La Villa, Corvara, Pedraces, San Leonardo) are just a few kilometers from one another, so getting around on a bike is actually about the most efficient. At some point in the week prior to the race, the area will be so thick with cyclists that being in a car is slower than walking or riding.

For more information about the area, and for guided events, visit our partners at Holimites.

For more information about the region, including hotels & guides, visit our own DolomiteSport Network

Also, visit : The Official Maratona Website

This is where you want to end up; healthy, happy and hungry

To see more of our images from the Maratona dles Dolomites, visit our PatitucciPhoto professional page

Maratona dles Dolomites Photography

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In the coming weeks we will be photographing the course conditions as well as some viewpoints along the way, please be sure to check back in.

We want to hear from you : Others who have done the race, or after you do this year’s – share your experience, please chime in using Comments.

I had the great pleasure of discovering that my close friend and Mountain Guide, Alberto De Giuli, was booked for five days of work with two North Americans who discovered the opportunity of a Dolomite trip after finding this website and getting inspired to have a look at the Dolomites. Alberto was with them at a nearby hut so Brandyn and I set off to meet them for a ski and dinner at the Fanes Hut. For me, huge rewards come from showing the Dolomites and Zillertal Mountains to people – and especially to see them marvel as I have at what I feel is the most beautiful and culturally perfect place I have seen on this earth.

Brandyn Roark Gray climbing the Zillertal Alpen's Hörnspitze

Ski touring the Dolomites Cresta Bianca

Alberto De Giuli scores a 10 with his Ski Roll

Dolomites Ski Touring with the Tre Cime di Lavaredo behind

The Fanes Hut, Italian Dolomites

Interior of the Fanes Hut. Yes, it is in the backcountry

The Fanes Hut kitchen

Alberto De Giuli with some very happy visitors

Skiing the Sella Group, the Kingdom of Couloirs

Sitting in the heart of the Italian Dolomites and rising above some of the region’s most famous villages is The Sella Group. Simply put, it takes your breath away. With its massive towers and labyrinth like corridors, it is a tremendous rock formation. Consisting of many different peaks it is a complex structure: all sides are rocky and vertical, and yet the top is flat. At its base there are four valleys linked together by the most efficient lift system in the world. This circuit, all on groomed pistes, is called the “Sellaronda” and runs around this mountain offering unforgettable views on each side. Skiers come from all over the world to spend a full day circumnavigating this island of stone on perfect alpine pistes.

At first glance, it seems to be a mountain impossible to ski, but a closer look reveals many different “white snakes” coming down from the top plateau through the coloured walls. These are the famous couloirs of the Dolomites. The Sella is the best place if you want to know them and understand the feeling of couloir skiing.

The Sass Pordoi cable car is the “door” of the kingdom and in only a few minutes we are on the top of the Altiplano, close to 3000 meters where the air is always cold and views to the Marmolada and beyond, stunning.
A tourist asks us where are we going with skis, because there are no pistes here and from the terrace you can only see huge cliffs… He doesn’t know that it is possible to move on the Altiplano and reach many hidden off-piste descents.
We start to ski on the flat summit of Sass Pordoi making the first track in 15 centimeters of fresh snow; the day is cold and sunny and I can feel the excitement of the guys who are skiing with me.
The first turns are a good warm up and in few minutes we reach the forcella Pordoi; the temptation to ski the south couloir or the north side (Lasties Valley) without tracks is very strong, but our goal is Piz Boè at 3152 meters, the highest peak of the group. For this, it is always better to go before it will becomes too warm.
We start to traverse toward the Mesdì valley, the most famous off-piste itinerary of the area, a kind of  “Vallèè Blanche” of the Dolomites.
But before its starting point we move right and start climbing with crampons on over the easy but rocky west ridge of Piz Boè. We’re headed for the little hut on the summit.
Now it’s time for a rest, close to the wood wall of the hut where we are protected by the wind and where the sun is stronger. From here the view is unbelievable and we can see in distance other skiers walking to Mesdì Valley and a group skinning up to north side of the Altiplano toward the Setus Valley, one of the best traverse of the Sella group.
In few minutes we start the ritual to get ready for the descent: crampons into the backpack, boots tightened, skis on, goggles, skipoles…rock and roll.
The northest face is wide and quite steep. Many people say that skiing a couloir is frightening, and here this is maybe a little true, because from where we start we can see the valley under your skis! It is time to find out.Thanks to the good snow, we all drop in and make perfect turns to reach the next starting point to the “Val delle Fontane”, an incredibly steep couloir which is hidden from the top. Here is the only possibility to ski down this side of Sella.
We are lucky, the sun has softened the snow in just the right amount. The couloir requires perfect snow for skiing.
Thankfully, the rope remains in the backpack and we start to ski the 40° corridor with jump turns between the gold and orange walls. With blue sky above our heads, we all descend, smiling, to the valley.
The ride is a pleasure and quickly the couloir is wide enough for longer turns. The skis move the surface of the snow drawing a perfect track behind. Stops are only for brief rests, to take pictures and to see the others in action (and to breathe!), but we prefer not to stop too much or it feels as if our “dream” is escaping.
At the end of the gully we have to traverse right to reach the open slopes; now it’s easier, there is no longer tension, but the snow is starting to be heavy …and our legs too.
Once we reach the lifts at the bottom we look back up to see our tracks in the couloir. They always seem to be much steeper from this perspective and I can see the satisfaction in the eyes of my client. This brings me great joy, to reveal the passages that are hidden in this great mountain.
But it’s only lunch time, if we keep moving the snow on the north side will still be good…

Francesco Tremolada is a UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain and Ski Guide based in the Italian Dolomites

Francesco works with Corvara’s Alta Badia Guides School and specializes in steep skiing. He has countless hard descents to his credit, many with clients in both the Dolomites and the Alps.

He is also the author of the new guidebook “Freeride in Dolomiti”, unarguably the finest guide for skiing in the Dolomites.

Contact : info@proguide.it

Phone  +39 339 105 5653

www.proguide.it

(DolomiteSport Sidenote – I would like to personally say thank you to Francesco for his contribution. Also, to add that for most any skier who dreams of dropping into these famous couloirs, they are not easy to find… using the services of a mountain guide will be appreciated)

The Ortler Ski Tour is all about decadence

What makes a trip stand out above others? Why do a few experiences immediately come to mind when looking back on our greatest memories? For me, when I asked this question of myself getting ready for this 5 part series on our favorite trips, the Ortler Tour in Italy was right there.

The Gran Zebru / König Spitze

We had done the Haute Route twice, the Berner Oberland twice and countless other Euro grand and mini tours. Setting out on the Ortler was just another week in the big mountains, afterall, it didn’t have the famous name recognition of some of the other big tours.

It became quickly apparent that we were entering a special place when I first laid eyes on the Gran Zebru, or Königspitze in German. It did help that it had just dumped a hefty quantity of winter powder in early April, but still, the terrain was noticeably big, dramatic and unlike other big mountains, loaded with couloirs and natural ski lines.

And we hadn’t even discovered the huts at this point, we were still in the tram getting to the start.

Skiing the Cevedale

From Sölden we rode lifts to the end of the line before hopping over a small ridge line and a drop to the Martello Valley. From the bottom of the descent we climbed a long and gradual valley to the Rifugio Martello. Here we had it confirmed, we love Italy and the Huts are the best.

Private rooms, bath, a menu for dinner, coffee machine, and full bar were the norm. Decadence we weren’t used to. Things were looking up and it was only day 1.

The next day we climbed the Cevedale, arguably the most classic peak to do while on the tour. The Cevedale proved good, but a thick fog prevented full appreciation. However, the seemingly hour long descent did catch our attention and was made even better when we arrived at our home hut for the next few days, the Rifugio Branca.

View from the Branca Hut

Once again we greeted and shown to our private rooms by kind Italian hut keepers, not grumpy, bitter versions found elsewhere. The Branca Hut is centrally located in the Ortler Group and for many parties serves as a kind of basecamp. We opted for a three night stay before moving on. It seemed a wise choice as right outside the windows was enough terrain for a lifetime. We were home.

At this point the Ortler was beginning to prove itself as our favorite tour. The Haute Route is an amazing journey through some of the most dramatic mountain terrain in the world. The skiing can be great, but really the Haute Route is all about getting from point A (Chamonix) to point B (Zermatt). In that window of time there are countless little unpleasant items that may shut you, and your Haute Route, down. As a result, the Haute Route has its own energy. Go go go. Skiers are most concerned with succeeding each day. The Ortler, being a loop, or in and out, or really whatever you so desire, is all about fun – or, all about skiing.

Headed to Punta San Matteo

Being at the same hut, especially one so cush as the Branca, for three days, and skiing as you please – this was like being on holiday. Stress free, lighter yet packs, joining in with new friends met at the hut and of course the Italian food and drink. Paradise. One even stops caring about getting weather days and can enjoy a day spent socializing over a bottle of wine and a pasta.

Right out the door of the Rifugio Pizzini

After four days of this life, it was time to move on to the next hut, the Rifugio Pizzini. From the Branca it is a quick ski down and then skin up alongside a small creek to the Pizzini. Here we were met by a large Bernese, the smell of coffee and a large open face behind the hut who’s corn crop was in dire need of harvest. We petted the dog, threw back several coffees and went farming until dinner.

Here, I discovered Claudio Compagnoni, the owner and undoubtedly kindest, most fun hut keeper in Europe. At most huts you are a client, some you are a guest, but at the Pizzini you are home. The hut was renovated in 2002 and the result is a modern, comfortable building made for big, partying groups of fun seeking mountain athletes.

Our original plan was to stay one night before moving on yet again, but the hut proved impossible to leave. From the Pizzini we spent three days exploring the terrain around the hut including the mighty Gran Zebru.

One issue with beginning your tour on the Sölden side and ending it with a visit to the Pizzini, is that you must get back to Sölden. The out requires an extremely steep climb to the Rifugio Casati before a complicated glacier descent back to Sölden. There is a lot of room for error on the climb, and on the descent. Here, local knowledge is key. Should you get stuck at the Pizzini (really not such a bad prospect, I could spend a winter there) and really need to get out, you will need to head west to Santa Caterina, then Livigno, and figure out an extremely complicated transit system back around to the other side, which could literally take two days. The rule, don’t get stuck at the Pizzini if you have a flight to catch.

Skiing the glacier descent of Punta San Matteo

Luckily, our week on the Ortler proved uneventful. So good was the trip that we went straight back the following year, however conditions were not so nice and we spent the bulk of our time inside. Yet still, the trip was a great one and kept the Ortler as “Best Of” in the ski tour category.

So, what does make a trip stand out above all the others like it? Good weather and snow certainly helps, but the combination of a great landscape and kind people close the deal. The Ortler delivers at every level, providing everything we want from a big European ski tour.

Endless ski terrain in the Ortler Group and Dolomites

Michael Silitch on the summit of Punta San Matteo

Amy Rasic in the Ortler Group

Michael Silitch skiing beneath the Gran Zebru

Ski touring beneath seracs

Michael Silitch beneath a serac

The Pizzini Hut at night

The author having had his fill

Interested in skiing the Ortler Tour? It is a serious undertaking given the nature of the terrain. Glacial hazards, navigation and the logistics make it a complicated tour. If you are not fully comfortable in this sort of terrain, or new to European ski touring logistics, a UIAGM Mountain Guide is highly recommended. A few of our good friends are:

Michael Silitch at High-Alpine Mountain Guides

Mark Houston & Kathy Cosley at Cosley Houston

Alberto de Giuli

This fall we helped Sue Johnston and Chris Scott make plans for hiking the Alta Via 1. When it was finished they kindly put together a story of their primary impression. The topic; the mountain hut.

Chris and Sue come from outside Ventura, California. Sue is a two time time winner of Colorado’s Hardrock Ultra as well as numerous other 100 miles races. She also holds the speed record for the John Muir Trail. More info about Sue can be read at Salomon Running or her blog’s Dolomite entry, RunSueRun.

Thanks to Sue Johnston and Chris Scott for the text below.

Rifugio = Mountain Hut. “Mountain Hut” usually conjures up a one room, rough hewn, log cabin hidden deep in the wilderness below a dense canopy, offering brief respite to the wandering hiker in search of flat and dry ground, a roof over one’s head, perhaps escape from persistent mosquitoes, yet maybe a mouse or two for company.  After you’ve heated your dinner and stretched your sleeping bag over the floor, and night has stolen daylight, only your headlamp reminds you of dimension within the hut’s walls.

The reality of rifugi (plural of “hut”) in the Dolomites is quite the opposite.  Think:  “this is the best aid station I’ve ever visited!” and then repeat that experience about every 10K, or in some cases, within spitting distance of the next.  Now envision the Dolomite mountain hut offering commanding views in almost every direction.  Welcome to Italy!

Rifugi dot the trail at seemingly designed intervals.  The proximity of one rifugio to the next encourages you to pack light – you’ll need only your choice of clothing for the length of your trek.  But what about food?  Since the staff at each rifugio spends its entire season there, they’ll be well fed.  If they’re well fed, you’ll be well fed, too.  This equates to a full menu of delightful treats.

Complementing the menu is beer on tap and a well-stocked bar, further enhanced by local grappas. For lack of clear translation, grappa is Italian for moonshine, only here in various flavors and colors.  As our new Italian friend suggested, “take a hit, roll the grappa across your teeth with your tongue, then breathe in quickly through bared teeth.  You’ll get snockered quicker!”  It almost worked.

Most rifugi also offer hotel-equivalent accommodations, as well; the loftier and more remote rifugi perhaps bunk beds.  On our five day hike of Alta Via 1, we survived one bunk bed group snorefest, the other nights in private rooms listening to just our own snoring.  Truthfully, even the snorefest wasn’t problematic – we were tired enough from each day’s hike that we could have slept through the finale of the 1812 Overture.  Full stomachs from dinner created a lethargy that made sleep easy; we justified the bulging stomachs as investment for the next day’s hike.

Up early for breakfast.  Salami and cheese panini for later on the trail.  Visit another rifugio down trail for more coffee.  Stop every 100 meters to take in another spectacular, breathtaking vista.  Enjoy an afternoon break for more coffee and snacks.  Then press on to make it to the day’s end rifugio in time for a warm shower, happy hour, dinner, and another night’s sleep between sheets.

Lather, rinse, repeat… for as many days as you can afford and are willing to enjoy.  The tease is to linger at any one rifugio, for each designs to keep you in the clutches of endless hospitality. Of course, avoid the tease, as more of the same awaits you at the next rifugio.  When (not if) you decide to run/hike the Alta Via 1, anticipate the rifugi pampering – you’ll re-define your standards for ultras’ aid station fare!! Hope you enjoyed reading our impressions of the Alta Via 1.