The Pfunderer Hohenweg
The Pfunderer Höhenweg Hiking Tour
Late in the fall of 2008, we found ourselves on one of the best ridge line trails we had ever seen. We were trail running the Sud Tirol’s Pfunderer Höhenweg in the Zillertal Alpen above Bruneck and wanted to see a summit we know locals frequent for post work exercise, the Sambock. Once on top, the trail dropping off the north side of the summit came into view and for as far as our eyes could see, stayed right on the high ridge line until it disappeared into some higher mountains.
High above Bruneck with views to the Marmolada and the Dolomites
“What is this?” Maps would need consulting. It turns out the trail is the Pfunderer Höhenweg Hiking Tour (Alta Via di Fundres in Italian) and stretches from Sterzing (Vipiteno in Italian) to Bruneck (Brunico). While traditionally done as a 5-6 day hiking tour with huts available each night, we decided to see if the whole trail was as good as the first section for running. In June 2009 we set out with our best friend Andreas Irsara carrying only small hydration packs to run its approximate 75 kilometers – but in 3 days.
Starting in Bruneck, we once again climbed to the summit of the Sambock where the trail becomes mostly runnable for the entire first day. Sticking to the same ridgeline we had seen the year before, the trail goes up and over numerous peaks while providing unobscured views to both the Dolomites in the south and the high alpine, glacier covered Zillertal Alpen peaks to the north. The trail continues like this for several kilometers before climbing a small pass, La Portella, and then a drop to the Tiefrastenhutte (Rifugio Lago della Pausa). This would traditionally be a stopping point and for us it was, but only for a pasta, we would continue on to the Edelrauthutte.
Dinnertime in the Edelrauthutte
The next section of trail gets into some higher elevation and we discovered that the reason we were seeing no one on the trail was because much of it was snow covered. The winter of 2009 was a massive one and all the passes from here forward were still buried. But there are advantages to this – direct lines and fast descents. Cold, soaked feet seem a small price to pay.
Once at the Edelrauthutte we were greeted by Anton Weissteiner, quite possibly the kindest hut warden I have ever had the pleasure of meeting. We were his guests for the night, and having been open only one day, we were able to take advantage of his enthusiasm for the coming season. A four course meal satisfied our 33 kilometer hunger. Seeing how disgustingly full we were, Anton saw fit to provide us with multiple glasses of grappa to aid in digestion, it certainly aided in sleeping.
The Edelrauthutte
The next morning we set out on a modified route. Anton warned us of too much snow to cross a pass where ladders must be climbed. But a variation to the trail was no problem and we were on our way to the Bodenalm Hut and a quick late morning strudel before once again entering the high, snow covered alpine areas. For us the second day was both roaring hot and ice cold. Dropping down low above the Pfundertal had us on south facing slopes and sweating. From here we climbed and climbed until we were on north facing slopes to the pass below the Punta Riva. In a completely white world we began questioning why we were doing this, in running shoes and lycra. Soaked and a bit frozen, we reached the col and were rewarded with a direct, snow covered line to the Brixner Hut 400 meters below. Minutes later, we were drying out and drinking coffee.
Lago Selvaggio, still quite frozen in June
So far the trail, the terrain, and the huts had been perfect. One day remained for our itinerary and it looked to be a different kind of terrain as we would be lower in elevation before dropping to Sterzing. But first more snow covered passes, the Rauhtaljoch is the morning’s climb to 2800 meters, and here we were once again in a white world all the way down to the Lago Selvaggio which was still frozen solid. Luckily all the snow was hard enough for us to stay on top of which actually made for faster speeds. Yet another pass above the lake before an enormous drop to the Simile Mahdalm, a small farmers home which looks deceptively like a hut but is in fact a working farm. And here the Pfunderer Hohenweg began to fall apart. Until this point the trail, while even snow covered, was very obvious. But now the trail became a faint goat path and climbed as steep as any trail I have ever seen. Vertical dirt is not easy to run. But we gained elevation quickly like this and soon were on top of the final pass, the Passo di Trens (Trenserjoch).
The descent to Sterzing
Here, once again the trail is a faint line through grassy terrain. We wondered if anyone actually does this section, the landscape is fantastic and would be a fitting ending to a superb tour, but really, the trail needs some work. Soon we were on the final drop to Sterzing through lush green forests and trails with more traffic. The temperatures were going up and gelato was on our minds.
Overall the Pfunderer Hohenweg gets a B. For running it is perhaps a bit steep in places, but overall very runnable and high quality. For hiking, it is beautiful although there are many other trails a bit more interesting. The area around the Edelrauthutte is the best in terms of mountain environment while the rest of the trail is very indicative of the the lower Zillertal Alpen Group. One thing I certainly realized after doing this trail was that I had seen the area, from the lower slope goat and cow farms to high rocky ridges, to alpine terrain. The huts were superb, the food fantastic and being a point to point, a rewarding journey. The Pfunderer Hohenweg is recommended.
Please please please… If you do the Pfunderer Hohenweg, we’d love a trip report of your own. We have seen a number of Google Searches for the trek come to us, there is not that much info out there on this great trail.
Leaving the Brixner Hut
Dinner at the Brixner Hut
Dolomites Tour Operator
