The entire ridge traverse, from the right to left and back to the where the photo was made before the last descent to the Val San Nicolo (below) >click to enlarge

Val di Fassa’s Val San Nicolo Ridge Traverse

After twelve years together, living, working and playing in the mountains – Janine and I may well have just discovered our perfect day. One of the very best of about 4000 days together in the mountains. Janine found it, right there on the Val di Fassa map; a feature, some trails, a little creative route planning and then an announcement that we’ll be doing a “big ridge traverse” this week. Ok.

First up, I need to make a disclaimer if this is to be used as a route planner. This trail is NOT for everyone, it is far from easy, includes exposed climbing sections, requires comfort in high places, and a bit of route finding. Nevertheless, it is all there and certainly not an epic unless you choose to make it so. We saw just two other people on the trail, I asked them in Italian if they too thought it was amazing, the answer, “Ja, aber nicht so einfach”. Okay, they’re weren’t Italians and they’re weren’t enjoying it quite as much as us, but you might. If the following sounds good to you, and you are in the Dolomites, do not miss this experience.

Highlights: Via Ferrate, exposure, no crowds, abundant World War 1 history, tunneling, caving, scrambling, countless summits, two huts, and quite possibly the best views of any location in the Dolomites (if only the afternoon had been clear!!).

Janine in the early morning headed to the Zeni Bivouac and the start of the Via Ferrata F. Gadotti

Via Ferrata F. Gadotti and the Alta Via B. Federspiel

What Janine discovered on the map was the Alta Via B. Federspiel starting from the Val San Nicolo above the Val di Fassa just outside Pozza di Fassa. The feature is a massive circular ridge system with a trail tracing its crest, alternating between Via Ferrata and “advanced” hiking route. But she added to the trail, starting on the Cima Dodici (Sas da le Duodesh) on the Via Ferrata F. Gadotti above the Zeni Bivouac. From the summit, trails and more ferrate link to the Forcella la Costela and the start of the Alta Via B. Federspiel. From here, one thing is immediately obvious. It is going to be a long day. And this was just the first part, for this ridge system terminates at the Rifugio Passo delle Selle. But the ridge continues, becoming the Sentiero Atti Bepi Zac which mostly follows a WWI trench and tunnel system all the way to the Costabela.

This section is certainly the most raw for WWI history, for much still remains from the war 95 years ago. It is not prettied or tidied up, it is a mess of barbed wire, artillery placements, tunnels, living quarters and stone barriers. We found bomb shrapnel, pieces of old leather boots, and oddly, very oddly – many bone fragments of unknown origin. We have never seen bone fragments elsewhere, why here? While traversing this section the pace will certainly slow to have a morbid look at human history. The Austrian and Italians had it out on this high and lonely ridge. The Austrian tunnels have gun turrets facing south, the Italian versions with windows pointing north. Trenches are still in place right on the crest and dotted with caves built as sleeping quarters – it is this very system of trenches and exposed ledges that the trails follows.

Dan; How big is the Zeni Bivouac? This small...

From the Costabela the trail plummets from the crest down deep into the cirque at the end of the Val San Nicolo. Here we found another trail, not on the map, that connected us to the parallel ridge starting at the Pas de San Nicolo where a well placed hut awaits. This is the beginning of an all new ridge and the second, and return, section of the traverse. From the Rifugio Pas de San Nicolo the remainder of trail is much more well traveled and less rugged. While the entire first section is straight up & straight down in rocky terrain, this section is singletrack through grasses and wildflowers traversing up and down until it ends at the ski station Col de Valvagin. From here, we took the service road 800 meters down to the valley below where we had left the car at the Malga al Crocifisso.

We did the entire trail in one day, beginning at 6am, we returned to the car at 8pm. Stops were made for photos/views and a sizeable lunch of pasta (of course). The trail is slow going, especially due to the Via Ferrate and rocky terrain in the first part. We thought to run much of it but the running really only comes towards the end.

As described, the tour could be done in many ways, even using the huts for overnighting. Or, the first big peak climb and Via Ferrata could be skipped. All names are from the Tabacco Map 06 Val di Fassa. It is very difficult to say how long this trail is with how intricate the route is, we estimate 26-28 kilometers and about 3800 total meters of climbing. An interesting note is that the tour begins on Dolomite rock, turns to a long section of Gneiss (complete with a completely different feel), and then turns back to Dolomite.

What allows this trail to have such magnificent views is its position. The ridgeline is part of what separates the southern Dolomites from the northern. Therefore, when on top of the crest nearly everything may be seen. I have never seen one area where so much is visible; from the Sas dla Crusc, Tofana, Sassolungo, Catinaccio, Odla to the Pale di San Martino, Civetta and even the Agner. It is the perfect location from which to see the Dolomites.

Janine at the start of the Via Ferrata F. Gadotti

From the summit of the Cima Dodici looking into the Val di Fassa, the Cattinacio and Pozza

The second peak of the day, the Sas Aut

Via Ferrata F. Gadotti with the approach trail far below

Janine descending in caves from the summit of the Sas Aut

Long, steep descent through a chasm from the Sas Aut

Finally, the ridge traverse begins here, at the Forcella de la Costela. Far in the distance, at the top left is the Rifugio Passo delle Selle and the end of this section, just the beginning

Endless up and down on the ridgeline in this terrain getting to the first hut

Before the Rifugio delle Selle is the beginning of the War area with ledges that served as the frontlines

The majority of the day is spent right on the crest

War ledges

Dan having a pasta at Rifugio Passo delle Selle

Immediately after leaving the hut is a long climb and the real War trail through tunnels and trenches for about 3 kilometers

Barbed wire and religion

The trail leads through tunnels that were the network for moving around without being exposed to gunfire

Windows can be seen in the cliff faces that were gun placements

Finally some terrain for running, the original goal for the day, comes after the Rifugio Passo San Nicolo

Janine on the last section of ridge before the big descent back to the Val San Nicolo. The first ridge's earlier sections can be seen in the background

The final section on perfect running terrain. The ski station, the end of the ridge, can be seen in the distance

Dan, end of the day, end of the ridge - the final meters to the last summit

As we descended, our first climb came into view, the beginning of our giant circle. The bright orange Zeni Bivouac can be seen in the green below the walls

In the valley, the final obstacle to the car

Walking through WWI trenches, Monte Lagazuoi

The bottom entrance to the Lagazuoi Gallery

A Historical Walk to Dinner through the Lagazuoi Tunnels

Part of the culture of life in the Italian Dolomites is to share a dinner with friends in one of the many mountain huts (rifugi) – for us, this is habit. Sometimes we hike, other times it’s a ski approach, maybe a trail run, or even a mountain bike ride. But last night was something unique, we arrived to the Rifugio Lagazuoi via a pitch black tunnel from WWI that ascends nearly 400 meters to the top of Monte Lagazuoi.

Our friend Carolyn is doing the Alta Via 1 and called to invite us for dinner at the hut. It was the perfect summer evening to head up and see her as well as the hut’s owner and friend Guido Pompanin. Dinner was set for 6:45 – we arrived at the trailhead at 6 and immediately took note of the trail sign indicating a two hour walk to the hut. “Merda, RUN!”

Inside the Gallery

A couple hundred meters above the parking area the trail splits; options include a long hike around the peak to it’s backside and up to the summit hut, or a tunnel going straight up within the mountain itself. The tunnel is a kind of museum as it is a perfectly preserved piece of war history. Built over a period of many months by the Italian army during WWI, the tunnel was meant to access the top and ultimately blow up the strategically located Austrian artillery placement. The monumental effort of boring through a mountain simply to then blow it up paid off and the Austrians lost there stronghold. Today, where men once lived in misery and fear, iPhone wielding tourists now strut about bound for the hut and a pasta, I was no exception.

Janine, aka Little Red Riding Hood, exiting the Gallery on top

We opted for the tunnel as it is faster and more direct and we had done it many times before – but never in a rush to make dinner. Up we went, each step inside the inky darkness gaining us a half meter. The lights from our headlamps passed over the many interior features; the soldiers living quarters, a water cistern, and many portholes in the tower’s side for dumping the stone and debris from the tunnel. Finally, we arrived at the top, exited the tunnel and like the Italian army in WWI, found not a soul about. But while the Austrian army made a rapid departure after catching wind of the impending arrival of the Italians and a potential large explosion, today’s summit inhabitants were gathered inside the Rifugio enjoying an aperitif.

After the Gallery there is an easy walk to the summit

Our own dash for the hut ended with the front door opening and Carolyn stepping out to greet us – promptly at 6:45. From the dank tunnel we suddenly found ourselves in a room full of cheer. Guido handed us towels for washing up, drinks arrived, and many friends gathered about. A fun feast was next, storytelling and a beautiful sunset making silhouettes of distant Dolomite towers. The evening became late, people wandered off to bed, we said good night, put our headlamps on and headed back to the tunnels.

The final steps to the top and the Lagazuoi Hut

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Travel in Italy’s Dolomites

A visit to the Heart of the Dolomites should certainly include a day or two exploring the Lagazuoi and Cinque Torri area. This is some of the most rugged and scenic terrain in all of the Dolomites and is accessed from any of the surrounding valley’s; Cortina d’Ampezzo (Passo Falzarego from the east), Alta Badia (Passo Valparola) or Arraba (Passo Falzarego from the west).

Rifugio Lagazuoi is accessed by trail on foot, via the tunnel described above, or by cable car (open seasonally). The common summer itinerary is cable car up, hike around the summit, lunch & nap on the Rifugio Lagazuoi’s famous deck with unrivaled views of the Dolomites, then a descent of the WWI tunnel. Headlamp required, helmet recommended.

Visit Rifugio Lagazuoi for complete information, pricing, and booking.

Also, the hut keeper, Guido, is a great photographer and thanks to the situation of the hut, gets incredible weather photos. Follow the Hut’s Rifugio Lagazuoi Facebook Page or on Twitter @rifugiolagazuoi

Guido Pompanin & Dan Patitucci inside the Rifugio Lagazuoi

Paklenica National Park's Anica Kuk, 350 meters of perfect rock

Visiting Croatia?

Stable weather, friendly locals, good food, inexpensive, easy access, Mediterranean swimming, flawless limestone – lots of bolts, abundant routes, huts… this is Croatia’s Paklenica National Park. A little piece of heaven. Yet while most European climbing destinations are somewhat packed, Paklenica is like a step into the past, mellow and relaxed. Imagine taking part in the Italian film Il Postino but with climbing as the subject matter.

Swimming in Paklenica's many pools

Accessed from the sleepy seaside town of Starigrad, Paklenica is an oasis in a somewhat dry and inhospitable landscape. Here temperatures soar into the 30′s (90′s) creating more desire to soak in the Adriatic than to go climbing. In fact climbing seems an almost unlikely activity upon arriving. But, enter the park, just a few kilometers from Starigrad, and the entire scene undergoes a rapid change thanks to a deep canyon, lush forest and flowing small river. Paradise found. On our first morning we weren’t so sure about Paklenica, by evening, we were in love.

Starigrad is not the postcard seaside village of Croatia, there is no colorful bay, no fishing boats in a small harbor and no cute, quant little village. It is touristy but in an old school, traditional, authentic village kind of way. It is not expensive, camping is about €6/person, hotels top out at about €45/person, restaurant prices are reminiscent of Europe 10 years back. But here too you can stroll town with a gelato, get seafood fresh from the fishing boats, sit in a bar with other climbers and, best of all, easily pedal your bike to the crag where a small store provides gelato and drinks just 3 minutes from the start of the climbing walls.

Topping out on Anica Kuk

Paklenica National Park itself is all about big, limestone walls, deep canyons, hikes to 1800 meter peaks from sea level, and a lush forest with a hut system. The star attraction being Anica Kuk, a 350 meter wall of impeccable limestone with over 100 multi pitch routes of all grades. As one enters the park, the canyon narrows and immediately both sides form perfect climbing walls with countless routes from 5a to 8a. For the beginner-intermediate climber, it is paradise as there is an abundance of routes from 5a-6b, all well bolted with bomber anchors. It is very user friendly.

Starigrad Lodging

As you enter town it will become immediately obvious that lodging will not be a problem. There are many campgrounds, hotels and private rooms in homes (look for the word Sobe in Croatian). The campgrounds are very user friendly with, quite possibly, the cleanest bathrooms I have seen. We stayed at the seaside campground on the south end of town, Paklenica Camping, our car was a 4 second walk from swimming in the Adriatic, there is a bar and Bancomat in camp and the staff is super friendly and informative.

We also checked into the Hotel Vicko Villa for a few nights; 4 star, free Wi-Fi, great breakfast, super friendly, fantastic seaside position. €45/person.

Getting Around Starigrad and Paklenica

A bike is the absolute ideal form of transportation. We parked our car and never touched it for a week. From the center of Starigrad to the climbing is only 15 minutes on the bike, slightly uphill, but not steep. In the evening, it is a refreshing, fantastic end to the day as you coast into town and the gelato stand. At the road’s end in the Park there is a bike storage area.

Paklenica National Park Logistics & Climbing Info

> There is one primary entrance to the Park on the south end of Starigrad. Each day you must pay to enter, it is 40 Kuna per person (€5.50). Be sure to ask about multiple day passes.

> There is a small store within the park, 5 minutes from the parking and right at the beginning of the climbing area. A well with drinking water is found on the trailside about 10 minutes uphill from the main climbing area.

Big gear, or little person?

> Near the Park entrance from the main road is a climbing shop with all the necessities.

> Key Climbing Website for organizing a trip, visiting and climbing in Paklenica is Climb Croatia. There is a good Climbing Guidebook readily available throughout Starigrad, recommended.

> Climbing: The climbing is sport, with big, new bolts. Anchors are single massive rings or chains. For the easiest classic route on Anica Kuk, the 5c Mosoraski,some crack gear may be appreciated depending on your level and comfort running it out. A 60 meter rope is pretty much mandatory. Climbing style is classic limestone; pockets, tufa, greasy if a popular route, but always well equipped and on perfect rock. Some routes have small tags with name & grade at the bottom, but most do not. A guidebook is helpful.

> Language: Many locals speak English, but perfect German and Italian are also spoken.

What else to do in Starigrad?

Exploring Starigrad's coastline

> Cycling: Cruise the coastline north and check out some of the the sleepy little villages. Croatian coastal roads are an ideal combination of perfect asphalt, stunning scenery and no cars. A trail system is being developed that parallels the coastline on the edge of the park, we didn’t do it, but info is available at the tourist office.

> Hiking: Get an early start and hike up to the highest peaks. Sea level to 1760 meters, you’ll cross numerous zones en route to some great views. The Paklenica Hut, about 2 hours from the parking lot, offers lodging. 20 minutes below is also a small hut providing food and drink during the day. And 10 minutes further above is the small, incredibly friendly Ivancev Dom, also offering lodging.

> Take an evening trip to Zadar (45 minutes in car) and stroll the ancient town. Do not miss the seaside walk along the city walls where you will find a series of man made blow holes in the stone that create music based on the waves frequency as they hit the wall.

> Stop at a roadside fruit & veggie stand and stock up on tomatoes (consistently the best) and especially the figs – the sweetest, most flavorful we have ever had.

The Paklenica Hut

Ivancev Dom, Paklenica National Park

When to visit Paklenica?

I had mixed reports on this one (some said all year, others the spring and fall) but basically decided: April – early July then again September & October. We went in mid June and the temps were certainly high in town, but okay for climbing in the shade. The mid-day descent off Anica Kuk was something I wouldn’t be in a hurry to repeat. Thankfully, the many pools in the canyon’s river provide perfect swimming. And of course having a bath-like Mediterranean is quite wonderful.

Summary

Croatia is a special place, while very European, it is a bit of a step into something more gentle, less hectic. Everything is there as in Europe, but so too something from the past that gives it a unique feeling. It is a place one can spend a great deal of time and not feel like life is rushing by.

And the climbing… it is not so common that I have said, “That was one of the best routes I have ever done.” but in Paklenica… over and over again throughout the day.

As we only scratched the surface of things to do, in addition to the well written Lonely Planet Croatia guidebook, these websites are helpful:

Paklenica National Park |  Croatia Travel |  Find Croatia

Finally, Dubrovnik is a few hours south and undoubtedly one of Europe’s greatest destinations, it is well worth 2-3 days all on it’s own. Do not miss it.

Paklenica local

Trek in Iceland

Iceland is one those places that will have your face pressed with enthusiasm against the window of your arriving flight. Upon descent to this small North Atlantic island, you fight to get a glimpse of what is to come. It has a reputation; poor weather, stunning landscapes, massive ice caps and Gnome-like creatures living in all the moss covering much of the island. There is something special about visiting a cold island as opposed to a more common Pacific destination.

We have now been to Iceland three times and each visit has involved the Laugavegur Tour, a 55-75km trek from the interior to the southern coast. The first visit was to hike the Laugavegur Tour, the second to run it, and the third to do other things in Iceland. And yet we still managed to return and do our favorite sections of this phenomenal tour. It is just that good.

In fact here, I will say it… The starting point to this 4-6 day trek, Landmannalaugar, is the single most beautiful place I have ever been. It is sublime. Nowhere else have I stood in such utter disbelief at the unique beauty of a landscape.

We have an entire post already dedicated to the Laugavegur Tour, and its logistics, at DolomiteSport, click here.  And, our Iceland Photo Gallery is here.

Why is it so good? It is purely unique, there is no landscape that I have seen that matches its appearance. You will look at things in nature that you have never seen before, it is an art piece. It is the painting on the art gallery’s wall that has viewers commenting, “Wow, someone was thinking outside the box when they created this”. In fact, it does look to have been created on an easel by an artist who has mastered the use of color and composition. Pastels, earth tones, and simple black & whites have been applied to graphic elements such as volcanoes, lakes, lava flows and glacier filled bays. It is a landscape that forever leaves you wanting more.

The Laugavegur Tour itself is a journey through some of Iceland’s highlights. From the Central Highland’s geothermally active start, freshly hardened lava flows, natural hot springs, boiling mud pits, sulphur vents and wandering creeks – to the southern coast’s high glacier caps and black landscape – the entire trek is fascinating, and for those interested in a trekking trip out of the ordinary, the perfect destination.

This morning, as I watched John cartwheel down Lower Rock Creek’s single track mountain bike trail, I decided he would make a great profile.

John in his element skiing Austria's Silvretta Tour

We first started hearing about John Dittli in 2001 when we moved to California’s Eastern Sierra. He is an outdoor photographer, passionate about the Sierra Nevada, and he gets after backcountry skiing with the enthusiasm of Tiger Woods traveling to Las Vegas. Certainly, he was someone we would have to meet.
It did not take long to cross paths with John and his wife Leslie. Now, nearly ten years later, we are all great friends and beginning to be able to look back on our own collection of experiences.

At 52, John can still drop the fittest of the fit in the mountains. With some fine Swiss mountain blood coursing through his veins, he puts it to good use in the summer months hiking throughout the Sierra, and in the winter, skiing peaks literally everyday. His chiseled features are softened by the broad smile he often wears.

The Dittli house; strawbale, recycled, solar, green, quality

He and Leslie spent 7 years hand building what is likely the Eastern Sierra’s most beautiful home, with the best view, and in the ideal location from which to walk out the door to play. They have mastered a balanced, healthy life as mountain people. Details are not skimped on, it shows in their house and it shows in their work.

John and Leslie have just published their first coffee table photo book following up Ansel Adam’s 1938 book visually showing the John Muir Trail. Walk the Sky is now the definitive photo essay of the entire John Muir Trail, which John has now completed twice on foot and once on skis and always with a camera.

John sampling Italian cuisine

John’s style of play in the mountains is legendary amongst his close friends. We know how hard he charges but you won’t hear it from John, we’ll have to do some storytelling for him. He prefers to roam wild areas, ski lines others don’t know about and to photograph the natural landscape with a unique, loving eye for the mountains and their infinite details.

Last year John came to ski with us in the Dolomites. I was a bit nervous about how he would fare in the more crowded mountains of Europe. For his first day in the backcountry we chose a popular peak with a safe glacier descent for bad weather days, which it was – atrocious in fact. We arrived to a bustling parking lot, so much so that John asked, “I thought we were backcountry skiing”.
“Uh ya, this is backcountry skiing Euro style.”
“Oh come on, all these people are going into the backcountry!”
Once in the up track, John stayed silent for only so long. With 70 something’s charging by in lycra suits and groups of skiers with every body shape and clothing color combo known to man, all of whom proving too fast to pass – John, in his element but completely baffled by the “scene”, had to speak up.
“This is insane!”
I convinced myself that he liked it, he just didn’t know it yet.

John Dittli, Silvretta Tour, Austria

Hours later at the hut, with a beer in hand and smiling ear to ear after a perfect 1000 meter powder run, John admitted to now “getting it”.
All those people, like him, were having a great time.
It was great seeing John go from shock to enjoying the added component of a social life in the mountains.

Now that we are back in his territory it has been rewarding seeing his new book realized. Throughout the years I know he has worked long and hard to create a book worthy of representing the experience that is one of the world’s finest treks, the Sierra Nevada’s John Muir Trail.

In part 2 of this profile, John himself will explain the process of visually documenting the 220 mile John Muir Trail, show his favorite photos and tell a humorous tale or two.

Get to know John & Leslie before part 2 of this post, visit John Dittli.com

Also, join the Walk the Sky Facebook Fanpage

John Dittli and Leslie Goethals

Does GoreTex really work?

I’ll admit to some nerdy tendencies and let it be known that I keep a pretty detailed training and “fun log”. It keeps me informed about my training while providing some motivation to fill in each day’s square with what I did, training time, intensity, etc…  Things have seemed pretty busy this year in terms of being out, so I looked. Sure enough, of our 243 days this year, I have been in the mountains for 220 of them. This is consistent with the last 20 years of my life. LOTS of time in the mountains.

This seems a good foundation for figuring out what gear really work and what does not. Our Gear Reviews have been tremendously popular and the traffic I see on these posts inspires me to keep the Gear Review momentum going. So, in the coming entries I will be randomly choosing items we use that function perfectly, or little things I have discovered that make life working/playing in the mountains run smoothly. Gear is obviously really important for my work and comfort so careful thought needs to go into decisions about what to use.

Pouring rain and high exertion. Gore-Tex works.

1st up, GoreTex.

If you would have asked me, “What sort of rain jacket do you use?” three years ago, I would have mentioned whatever soft shell, water resistant, alpine jacket I was using at the time. I am from California, rain was something I either didn’t experience much of or I quickly passed through on my way to higher elevations to where it was snowing. “Crunchy” shells were not something I needed, I was spoiled.

But now, living in Europe, I get to experience rain. And after having just spent two weeks in Iceland I came to realize Gore-Tex works and it works quite well. We were actually doing a photo shoot for Gore and were provided with numerous pairs of boots and jackets from all the different companies they partner with; from Mammut to Adidas to Scott to La Sportiva.

When it rains in Iceland it is often a fine spray which is far more soaking than a downpour. We were in it each day, wrapped in GoreTex from head to toe, hiking steep peaks and exerting energy within the material. Bone dry is a safe assessment of what we found inside our shells. In fact it worked so well that being in the rain was a non-issue, it was just what we did. Ironically, this was the point of the photos and it turned out to be true.

What one wears underneath the GoreTex membrane is very important – don’t wear too much and do wear the right materials. For us, we all wore thin, synthetic base layers with a mid-weight fleece of our choice on top. We stayed warm and dry. For socks, wool seems superior and the consensus is that Smartwool makes the best. It is amazing that Smartwool socks do not smell.

Back home now in the Dolomites, I have incorporated a thin Gore Bike Wear jacket into my wardrobe, it goes on every outing, both running and mountain biking. With zip off sleeves to turn it into a vest, it is undoubtedly one of the best pieces I own.

Another small item I have found to be fantastic is the Gore windstopper headband. I have long been a fan of headbands as they seem to regulate the body temp best. But the windstop material’s overlooked feature is the quiet that it provides. It dampens the sound of the aggravating wind, put it on and enjoy quiet much like noise dampening headphones on an airplane. Also available in beanie hats  - must haves in my opinion.

Finally, footwear. For me, GoreTex on my feet is a mixed blessing. I have hot feet, really hot. So, unless it is cold out, my feet don’t want to be wrapped in any additional membrane. In the cold and wet of Iceland, GoreTex boots worked absolutely perfectly and we trudged through mud, ankle deep creeks and had water pouring off our legs onto the tops of the boots. “Bone dry” is the right description for inside the boot.

Gaiters and Gore-Tex running shoes - good combo

I have also done a running tour in Iceland where we ran through the  same conditions. I used GoreTex shoes for this as well and found that they worked fine. But being low top, if it is seriously wet, water still gets in and they end up being soaked. To me, running shoes are the exception, if it is pouring rain and you are charging through puddles, you’ll get soaked regardless. They are like GoreTex shorts – why? If you need running shoes to stay dry in mildly wet weather and mud, then GoreTex is going to do the job. But for boots in the wet – definitely go GoreTex.

As photographers we are lucky to be given a lot of clothing to shoot photos of. Gore gave us a lot of their running and cycling stuff under the brand name Gore but not made with GoreTex. Gore Bike Wear and Gore Running Wear are a bit confusing – they are made with GoreTex, right? WRONG. It is absolutely beautifully designed performance clothing. I would consider it to be some of the best pure sport clothing I have used. The name is a bit confusing, we associate Gore with GoreTex, but in the case of the clothing lines it is not all made with the GoreTex material itself.

To summarize… I have had to learn how to work in the rain without it affecting me. The fact that I must always carry camera gear means I have a heavy pack, which forces me to figure out what gear is lightest yet still works. Gore has proven to be a great product to rely on so I can work, train and enjoy being in the mountains no matter what the weather is doing.

Gore is a company I am impressed with, not only for what they make, but for how happy their employees are and for their corporate philosophies. Malcom Gladwell’s best seller, “The Tipping Point” revealed why they make for an interesting company. PatitucciPhoto and DolomiteSport are in no way working with Gore, we simply appreciate quality – when we find it, we’ll promote it and review it.

The Pfunderer Hohenweg

The Pfunderer Höhenweg Hiking Tour

Late in the fall of 2008, we found ourselves on one of the best ridge line trails we had ever seen. We were trail running the Sud Tirol’s Pfunderer Höhenweg in the Zillertal Alpen above Bruneck and wanted to see a summit we know locals frequent for post work exercise, the Sambock. Once on top, the trail dropping off the north side of the summit came into view and for as far as our eyes could see, stayed right on the high ridge line until it disappeared into some higher mountains.

High above Bruneck with views to the Marmolada and the Dolomites

“What is this?” Maps would need consulting. It turns out the trail is the Pfunderer Höhenweg Hiking Tour (Alta Via di Fundres in Italian) and stretches from Sterzing (Vipiteno in Italian) to Bruneck (Brunico). While traditionally done as a 5-6 day hiking tour with huts available each night, we decided to see if the whole trail was as good as the first section for running. In June 2009 we set out with our best friend Andreas Irsara carrying only small hydration packs to run its approximate 75 kilometers – but in 3 days.

Starting in Bruneck, we once again climbed to the summit of the Sambock where the trail becomes mostly runnable for the entire first day. Sticking to the same ridgeline we had seen the year before, the trail goes up and over numerous peaks while providing unobscured views to both the Dolomites in the south and the high alpine, glacier covered Zillertal Alpen peaks to the north. The trail continues like this for several kilometers before climbing a small pass, La Portella, and then a drop to the Tiefrastenhutte (Rifugio Lago della Pausa). This would traditionally be a stopping point and for us it was, but only for a pasta, we would continue on to the Edelrauthutte.

Dinnertime in the Edelrauthutte

The next section of trail gets into some higher elevation and we discovered that the reason we were seeing no one on the trail was because much of it was snow covered. The winter of 2009 was a massive one and all the passes from here forward were still buried. But there are advantages to this – direct lines and fast descents. Cold, soaked feet seem a small price to pay.

Once at the Edelrauthutte we were greeted by Anton Weissteiner, quite possibly the kindest hut warden I have ever had the pleasure of meeting. We were his guests for the night, and having been open only one day, we were able to take advantage of his enthusiasm for the coming season. A four course meal satisfied our 33 kilometer hunger. Seeing how disgustingly full we were, Anton saw fit to provide us with multiple glasses of grappa to aid in digestion, it certainly aided in sleeping.

The Edelrauthutte

The next morning we set out on a modified route. Anton warned us of too much snow to cross a pass where ladders must be climbed. But a variation to the trail was no problem and we were on our way to the Bodenalm Hut and a quick late morning strudel before once again entering the high, snow covered alpine areas. For us the second day was both roaring hot and ice cold. Dropping down low above the Pfundertal had us on south facing slopes and sweating. From here we climbed and climbed until we were on north facing slopes to the pass below the Punta Riva. In a completely white world we began questioning why we were doing this, in running shoes and lycra. Soaked and a bit frozen, we reached the col and were rewarded with a direct, snow covered line to the Brixner Hut 400 meters below. Minutes later, we were drying out and drinking coffee.

Lago Selvaggio, still quite frozen in June

So far the trail, the terrain, and the huts had been perfect. One day remained for our itinerary and it looked to be a different kind of terrain as we would be lower in elevation before dropping to Sterzing. But first more snow covered passes, the Rauhtaljoch is the morning’s climb to 2800 meters, and here we were once again in a white world all the way down to the Lago Selvaggio which was still frozen solid. Luckily all the snow was hard enough for us to stay on top of which actually made for faster speeds. Yet another pass above the lake before an enormous drop to the Simile Mahdalm, a small farmers home which looks deceptively like a hut but is in fact a working farm. And here the Pfunderer Hohenweg began to fall apart. Until this point the trail, while even snow covered, was very obvious. But now the trail became a faint goat path and climbed as steep as any trail I have ever seen. Vertical dirt is not easy to run. But we gained elevation quickly like this and soon were on top of the final pass, the Passo di Trens (Trenserjoch).

The descent to Sterzing

Here, once again the trail is a faint line through grassy terrain. We wondered if anyone actually does this section, the landscape is fantastic and would be a fitting ending to a superb tour, but really, the trail needs some work. Soon we were on the final drop to Sterzing through lush green forests and trails with more traffic. The temperatures were going up and gelato was on our minds.

Overall the Pfunderer Hohenweg gets a B. For running it is perhaps a bit steep in places, but overall very runnable and high quality. For hiking, it is beautiful although there are many other trails a bit more interesting. The area around the Edelrauthutte is the best in terms of mountain environment while the rest of the trail is very indicative of the the lower Zillertal Alpen Group. One thing I certainly realized after doing this trail was that I had seen the area, from the lower slope goat and cow farms to high rocky ridges, to alpine terrain. The huts were superb, the food fantastic and being a point to point, a rewarding journey. The Pfunderer Hohenweg is recommended.

Please please please… If you do the Pfunderer Hohenweg, we’d love a trip report of your own. We have seen a number of Google Searches for the trek come to us, there is not that much info out there on this great trail.

Leaving the Brixner Hut

Dinner at the Brixner Hut

Ferragosto falls on August 15 and is the traditional day to celebrate summer, it is also, on a completely unrelated note, the day for Catholics where the Blessed Virgin Mary rises to the heavens. In German, it is known as “Maria Himmelfahrt” (German for ”Mary goes to the sky”) - my personal favorite term. At some point August 15 was spread out to include the entire month of August. Half the population goes to the sea, the other half to the Dolomites, or so it seems. Needless to say, it is busy and loud, something like Italian TV live throughout the mountains, fully entertaining. While I enjoy the Italians and all the frenetic energy that they bring, I also like to escape, in fact in the last days I have managed hidding completely from the hordes by venturing north to the Zillertal Alpen. There we have mountain biked, hiked and climbed with no one around, and all in an amazing landscape complete with glaciers, towering peaks, idyllic green hillsides and perfectly situated mountain huts.

All of this while the Dolomite’s famous landmarks resemble Disneyland.

The lesson – if you plan to travel to the Dolomites during August – book your stay well in advance, hotels and huts. Look into some alternate locations to visit rather than just the icons. There are countless areas where the tourists do not go that are equally as stunning. Yes, DolomiteSport is a resource for the Dolomites, but in this case, no we are not going to say where to go – half the fun is figuring it out. Some hints, keyword search Google with Val Aurina, Anterselva, Riva di Tures, Rio Bianco, Edelrauthutte, Tiefrastenhutte… an entire playground exists to the north.

Arguably the most famous hiking tour in Iceland is the Laugavegur Tour. Traditionally done north to south, the trek begins at a drop off point called Landmannalaugar. This tiny launch pad is a destination in its own right, in fact I would argue that it is the single most beautiful place I have ever been. The area consists of one small hut (sleeps 80), a large campground for trekkers, a small building with sinks, toilets and showers, a covered eating area, an old school bus turned store, and the most coveted of all… a large natural hot spring that serves as swimming pool, meeting place, bath, warming room and of course bar.

Landmannalaugar

Luckily the Laugavegur Tour is good enough to motivate one to leave Landmannalaugar, but only just barely. For those not wanting to do the tour, a stay of 3 or 4 days in Landmannalaugar will keep you both busy and fascinated. But for those doing the Laugavegur, be sure to allow for at least 2 days to explore the Landmannalaugar area.

The Laugavegur Tour

The Laugavegur tour is 4 – 6 days long if sticking to the traditional program. Huts are reached each night where one may sleep inside (if you have a reservation), or camp in the nearby camping area. Food is not available, bring all your food, even if staying in the huts. Inside the huts are kitchens with everything you’ll need, but only for those staying in the huts, campers are on their own.

On the fourth night one arrives to Thorsmork where many people call the tour finished, but the 5th day from Thorsmork south to Fimmvorouhals is superb and should not be missed. If nothing else, do it as an out and back from Thorsmork, this is what we did as the weather was terrible to continue south. Thorsmork is in some ways a natural ending as there is bus service to the hut that returns hikers to Reykjavik.

Landmannalaugar Hot Spring

The full 6 day tour is about 85 kilometers while the Thorsmork finish keeps it at about 55 kilometers. It is mostly flat and rolling terrain, there are no real climbs with the exception of the 5th day which climbs a pass to 1112 meters from about 150 meters. Expect to walk in some summer hardpack snow. Hikers should be reasonably fit and used to carrying heavy packs. Consider this: There is a running race from Thorsmorrk to Landmannalaugar on the same trail, the best time is 4:10…

Landmannalaugar (590m) – Hrafntinnusker (1100m)

An unforgettable day of walking through a landscape like no other. Thermal vents, boiling mud pits, lava flows, and colors never seen in the natural world will all be trailside. There is a massive ice cave in a nearby small glacier that serves as a short side trip from the hut at Hrafntinnusker.

Hrafntinnusker (1100m) - Álftavatn (530m)

From Álftavatn it’s another spectacular day with some river crossings, be prepared to get wet. If there has been a lot of rain, ask the hut keeper about water levels. Distant views to the massive glaciers will come into sight.

Álftavatn (530m) - Emstrur (500m)

The landscape will begin to change this day and becomes more open and stark. Massive wide open, black sand covered scenery and a large river are passed before reaching Emstrur.

The trail follows a river valley out to Thorsmörk where the landscape turns back to green. The giant glacier of Myrdalsjokull will be on the left side throughout the day and several small rivers must be crossed, all with ice cold glacier melt water.

Landmannalaugar Steam Vents

Thorsmörk (200m) – Brattafonn Pass (1116m)

From Thorsmork the trail immediately begins to climb to a huge flat plateau. From here the Myrdalsjokull Glacier will be immediately in front of you. Continue climbing to 1100 meters where the trail traverses a gap between two massive ice fields. Once on the Brattafonn Pass the last hut is a few kilometers below. Care should be taken to only attempt this day in good weather. Poor visibility or snowfall can quickly ruin the fun. Check in at the campground or hut for full weather reports.

Fimmvorouhals – Skoga (sea level)

Thorsmork area

A road is descended from the Fimmvorouhals hut to Skogafoss and the village of Skoga where buses may be taken to Reykjavik.

Iceland Touring Association Website : http://www.fi.is And an excellent page on the tours:  Iceland Hiking Trails

Hut Reservations: Full list of huts with phone numbers for reservations. Huts are about 3300 Icelandic Krona per person. Camping is 900 and Showers 400.

Bus Info: Iceland’s Bus Service is superb, buses run daily from Rekjavik to Landmannalaugar. One does NOT need a car in Iceland, impressive given how remote some areas are.

Check in with www.re.is for all info.

Time of Year: Depending on weather, the huts will be open from June to sometime in September. Buses stop running on 13 September. It is possible to do the tour outside this time frame but the logistics of transportation becomes an issue. Landmannalaugar offers plenty of day trips. Check in with Iceland Tourism for all info.

Hiking in Landmannalaugar

What to Take: Standard backpacking camping gear including:

Durable tent for wind.

Nights are not too cold, but a sleeping bag comfortable to -10 celsius will be appreciated.

Good rain gear, waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex is your friend, you may well spend the whole day in it.

Gore-Tex footwear. Expect mud and stream crossings.

Many people take a pair of lightweight Teva like sandals to wear for the river crossings.

Trekking poles are good for the rivers as well, also for the heavy packs.

Rain covers for the packs.

Eye covers for the all night light.

Cellphones are handy for calling ahead to huts, there is cell and data service almost everywhere.

Dinner in the tent (too wet outside the tent)

Food: One of the unfortunate aspects of Iceland, especially from our coming from Italy, is the food. Iceland’s cuisine seems to be inspired by the American midwest diner – greasy burgers, overcooked everything and little in the way of veggies. While one can find fantastic food in Reykjavik’s restaurants, it is difficult to eat anything healthy outside the city. Stores offer lots of white, processed sugary food – be prepared or bring your own. Remember, nearly everything in stores is shipped to Iceland, and the island is a long way from anything. In Landmannalaugar there is some food available at an old school bus turned into store, they have a surprising variety including lake caught Char, fresh bread is delivered daily. Yes, beer is sold as well.

Weather: It wouldn’t be Iceland if it didn’t get cloudy and rain each day. Just be prepared for some wet weather. Wind is the real enemy if it is combined with the rain. When it blows, it rages. Temps during the day should be about 8-16 Celsius. We have also seen 21 but as an average, it is more like 14.

Language: Iceland natives all speak perfect English and are some of the friendliest people we have met anywhere. They are great fun and love to party, it is a very welcoming country for visitors, no problems.

Summary: Landmannalaugar is really a life list kind of destination, it is that good and that special. The Laugavegur Tour is icing on the Landmannalaugar cake. While Iceland has experienced economic woes in the last year, tourists have benefited. What were once shockingly high prices for everything have become much closer to what the rest of the world is used to. Now is the time to go and deals are to be found from both Europe and North America. Iceland wants your business and you’ll be glad you went, a win win.

DolomiteSport is run by PatitucciPhoto – or, Dan & Janine Patitucci, professional commercial photographers specializing in mountain sports. It is our goal to motivate people to experience wonderful places, such as Iceland. We do so through our trip reports, but more so through our images. This photo gallery is a collection of images from areas in and around Landmannalaugar and Thorsmork, including the National Park Jokulsargljufur.

Iceland Laugavegur Photo Gallery

–we welcome all comments and additional trip info from readers. Thanks.

The Dolomites Alta Via 1

The Dolomite’s Premier Hiking Trail

The Dolomites Alta Via 1 is quite simply, sublime. Hiking alongside a turquoise lake beneath towering Dolomite peaks, the trail heads south through some of the Dolomites most majestic terrain. 1000 meter tall walls, towers, crystal clear lakes, lush, wildflower covered green meadows and of course an unrivaled hut system offering Italian cuisine, comfortable beds and premier friendly atmosphere.

Backpacker Magazine wisely called the Alta Via 1, one of the world’s premier treks, and not to be missed for trekkers. But, it is not just for hikers. As the fast & light style begins to grow, many are discovering the potential for doing European trails with 6-8kg packs on their backs, and living it up along the way. For trail running, the potential grows even more as long distances may be covered quickly with little weight to slow one down. The Alta Via 1 is about 145 km in length and the time to hike it is typically between 5-12 days. As a side note, the record for the Alta Via 1 is by American Topher Gaylord in an astounding 19 hours 44 minutes, an account of which will be coming to DolomiteSport in the coming week.

We just returned from the Alta Via 1 after spending 5 days running it from north to south. Appropriately, while we were away, the Dolomites became added to the list of UNESCO world heritage sites, confirming the region’s beauty and importance in maintaining its culture and natural state.

Please please please… If you hike the Alta Via 1, we’d love a trip report of your own. The number one search that points to DolomiteSport is for the Alta Via 1, let’s get some more hiking info here for others to utilize.

The running tour we did is hosted by our partners at Holimites.com. The same trip will repeat in mid July and September, check in to their site for more info.

Photos tell the story best, please visit our Alta Via One Gallery to see the whole journey.