A trend is developing. Each time we ask someone from the USA to contribute to DolomiteSport a consistent topic seems to emerge; the mountain huts, their decadence and convenience.
This fall we helped Sue Johnston and Chris Scott make plans for hiking the Alta Via 1. When it was finished they kindly put together a story of their primary impression. The topic; the mountain hut.
Chris and Sue come from outside Ventura, California. Sue is a two time time winner of Colorado’s Hardrock Ultra as well as numerous other 100 miles races. She also holds the speed record for the John Muir Trail. More info about Sue can be read at Salomon Running or her blog’s Dolomite entry, RunSueRun.
Thanks to Sue Johnston and Chris Scott for the text below.
Rifugio = Mountain Hut. “Mountain Hut” usually conjures up a one room, rough hewn, log cabin hidden deep in the wilderness below a dense canopy, offering brief respite to the wandering hiker in search of flat and dry ground, a roof over one’s head, perhaps escape from persistent mosquitoes, yet maybe a mouse or two for company. After you’ve heated your dinner and stretched your sleeping bag over the floor, and night has stolen daylight, only your headlamp reminds you of dimension within the hut’s walls.
The reality of rifugi (plural of “hut”) in the Dolomites is quite the opposite. Think: “this is the best aid station I’ve ever visited!” and then repeat that experience about every 10K, or in some cases, within spitting distance of the next. Now envision the Dolomite mountain hut offering commanding views in almost every direction. Welcome to Italy!
Rifugi dot the trail at seemingly designed intervals. The proximity of one rifugio to the next encourages you to pack light – you’ll need only your choice of clothing for the length of your trek. But what about food? Since the staff at each rifugio spends its entire season there, they’ll be well fed. If they’re well fed, you’ll be well fed, too. This equates to a full menu of delightful treats.
Complementing the menu is beer on tap and a well-stocked bar, further enhanced by local grappas. For lack of clear translation, grappa is Italian for moonshine, only here in various flavors and colors. As our new Italian friend suggested, “take a hit, roll the grappa across your teeth with your tongue, then breathe in quickly through bared teeth. You’ll get snockered quicker!” It almost worked.
Most rifugi also offer hotel-equivalent accommodations, as well; the loftier and more remote rifugi perhaps bunk beds. On our five day hike of Alta Via 1, we survived one bunk bed group snorefest, the other nights in private rooms listening to just our own snoring. Truthfully, even the snorefest wasn’t problematic – we were tired enough from each day’s hike that we could have slept through the finale of the 1812 Overture. Full stomachs from dinner created a lethargy that made sleep easy; we justified the bulging stomachs as investment for the next day’s hike.
Up early for breakfast. Salami and cheese panini for later on the trail. Visit another rifugio down trail for more coffee. Stop every 100 meters to take in another spectacular, breathtaking vista. Enjoy an afternoon break for more coffee and snacks. Then press on to make it to the day’s end rifugio in time for a warm shower, happy hour, dinner, and another night’s sleep between sheets.
Lather, rinse, repeat… for as many days as you can afford and are willing to enjoy. The tease is to linger at any one rifugio, for each designs to keep you in the clutches of endless hospitality. Of course, avoid the tease, as more of the same awaits you at the next rifugio. When (not if) you decide to run/hike the Alta Via 1, anticipate the rifugi pampering – you’ll re-define your standards for ultras’ aid station fare!! Hope you enjoyed reading our impressions of the Alta Via 1.
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