Backcountry Skiing

Skiing the Lyngen Alps of Norway

For about six years we made feeble attempts to get to Norway’s Lyngen Alps. A combination of not really understanding the logistics combined with our timing being off and/or the trip & lodging we wanted being full all added up to putting it off. Finally in March 2011 we made it and happily found it was worth the effort. It is a somewhat confusing area to research, but once there it all becomes clear. Hopefully this post will help make sense of it all prior to a visit.

As usual, our travel plans and itinerary are shaped by photoshoots, this was no exception. We were there to make some specific types of ice climbing photos. While we had always dreamt of the “Stay on a Boat” option, for this trip we needed to stay on land and with a car for mobility. Ice climbing and backcountry skiing were the focus. So, together with our friend, and pro climber, Kurt Astner, off we went.

Google “Lyngen Alps”, “Norway Skiing”, or any other combo of such and you are likely to get the Lyngen Lodge as your top hit. We did, and so we contacted them. It took forever to get a response, and when we finally did it was, “all full, all season”. We began to notice that there really are very few other lodging options with the exception of the Magic Mountain Lodge in Lyngseidet. An email went out, minutes later we had an answer, “available”. We booked and this turned out to be a blessing in disguise.

Lyngseidet from the Magic Mountain Lodge

Getting to the Lyngen Alps is easy; Fly to Norway (Oslo) and connect via another flight to Tromsø, rent a car, drive 2 hours and you are there. The driving part is easy, beautiful, and awe inspiring if it’s during the day. For us it was a white knuckle, pitch black drive through a howling blizzard. Tromsø, being a hip and interesting city is well worth a visit. If you arrive in the evening, consider an overnight stay.

We arrived to the Magic Mountain Lodge at about midnight and were very ready for our long travel day to end. Once there we walked into my dream world. For countless years I have dreamt of running a hotel in a great location that caters to mountain sport athletes – here it was. The couple (Patrik & Henrika) running the show were instantly welcoming, accommodating and new friends.

I asked Patrik for a beer, if possible something local. From behind the bar he pulled out three talls. “These are Macks, the world’s northernmost brewery”. He popped the tabs. “Also the most expensive”, he grinned. Gulp. We sipped, and then we gulped the beers. Superb, but yes damaging to the wallet.

As I always say about so many things, “It is all about the people”. This was never more true than with our stay at Magic Mountain Lodge.

Skiing in the Lyngen Alps

The blessing in disguise turned out to be the location. It always takes a visit to figure out how best to experience a mountain area, and one visit to the Lyngen Alps makes it clear that the best location to base yourself is indeed, the town of Lyngseidet. The fjords, while great, are mightily inconvenient for getting around as the roads take you in and out of every inlet. Of course there is the ferry, but it is time consuming as well, expensive and you must still drive. The primary area to ski in the Lyngen Alps, and the area you will look at and say, “Let’s go there” is directly accessed from the village of Lyngseidet. The Lyngen Lodge is located on the opposite side of the fjord, in much smaller mountains and requires traveling by boat over to the main area for skiing. One reason to stay on the opposite side is simple – the view is superb. But if you want to get up in the morning and go skiing with as little commute as possible, stay in Lyngseidet.

Where snow meets the sea

Another option is to stay on one of the many charter boats. These are large, comfy, liveable boats (small ships in some cases) that travel the fjords and dock or anchor close to the next days ski objective. We saw them everywhere, one day dropping off all 30 skiers on a beach and then heading up on skis behind us. We spoke to the guests and they reported a great time, although the rocking boat made some less than comfortable. Some operations offer much smaller groups for friends with guides. Or, join in on one the big boats and make new friends. Certainly a cool option.

Skiing to the beach from high in the Lyngen Alps

What to expect of the Skiing

Our trip was mid March and we found it to be superb. Two different thoughts seem to exist on when to go. The dead of winter for powder skiing, amazing light, and the likelihood of seeing the Aurora Borealis. Then there is the spring for longer days and still generally great skiing. We found the skiing to be as unique as the overall experience. As the approaches begin at the beach, the first few hundred meters up was often in slop that would put “Sierra cement” to shame. Then suddenly, like a line drawn, it would all change to powder. When it changed to a crust, we were still able to find powder skiing on the right aspect. Depending on where you go, you will start on the beach, skin through a brief forest, pop into alpine terrain and perhaps travel on glaciers on your way to a couloir, summit or high plateau. Your descents often put you right back on the beach – where else do you get to ski to the beach?

Hiring a Mountain Guide

Given that I said skiing in the Lyngen Alps will all make sense once you get there, it will not be a guarantee that you will go to the right places for the best skiing or be tuned into the avalanche conditions. We saw pretty quickly that the avalanche risk can be high in these parts, and that like all mountain areas, the Lyngen Alps have their own set of rules. Our friend Kurt is a UIAGM Guide, and together we discussed and researched each day’s plan. We found good snow and stayed out of trouble. But, we saw the opposite for some visitors. If you are interested in getting a guide, check in with the crew at the Magic Mountain Lodge as we did meet some local UIAGM Guides who would stop in for an evening beer.

Lyngen Alps Ice Climbing

One of the reasons we were in Norway was to shoot ice climbing with Kurt Astner. Kurt is one of the best ice climbers in the world and a former Italian National Champion. His intention was to seek out new lines and new ice falls that he had heard about through friends. He did just that. If climbing some ice while on a ski trip is your thing, it is certainly possible in this area. I won’t pretend to offer advice, only to say there is a lot of nice, primarily on the east side of the fjords from the Lyngen Alps and easily accessed by car from the ferry at Olderdalen.

Interested to see the images we made, and a video of how we made them? Visit : PatitucciPhoto Norway Ice Climbing.

Kurt Astner on a new line outside Olderdalen, Norway

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Rating: 5.0/5 (2 votes cast)

The European Alps Grand Ski Tours Compared

May 18th, 2011

by dolomitesport.

2 comments

By the end of the 2011 ski season, we realized that over the last 10 years we have skied most all the European grand ski tours, not just once, but twice, if not three times each. Of course there are more, but the big ones, the famous tours, are all under our belt. As a resource for people researching which they would like to do, I thought to rate them and see how they compare. I know which is my favorite, would it really come out on top? The candidates are:

The Haute Route's final descent, below the north wall of the Matterhorn straight to Zermatt.

The Haute Route Ski Tour

Probably the most famous ski tour in the world and, for good reason, likely in number one position on most backcountry skiers must hit lists. We have done the Chamonix to Zermatt Haute Route twice and by both versions, the classic via Chanrion and the Verbier/Lac des Dix variation. Being the only true point to point tour on the list, the Haute Route demands that you stick to an agenda – a static tour. It is a complicated route requiring every skill in a skiers toolbox; steep skiing, fitness, navigation, glacier travel, and mountaineering.

Switzerland’s Berner Oberland Ski Tour

Like all the tours on the list with the exception of the Haute Route, the Berner can be done however a skier chooses. In where you please, out where you please – a dynamic tour. Typically, most parties go into the Bernese Alps from Grindelwald, at the Jungfraujoch so as to start high. Once within the massive region, there are numerous huts and countless ski lines, all of which are accessible from an initial descent to the Konkordiaplatz. There are also several 4000 meter peaks to climb, though not completely by ski. One disadvantage (some may see this as an advantage) of the region is the vast nature, as such there is potential for long slogs skinning up low angle glaciers. Also, in poor weather the options are more limited for travel. Exiting the area is typically done via the Lötschental or south towards Riederalp where buses and trains take you back around to the Grindelwald starting point.

The Ortler Ski Tour, Italy

The Ortler itself is a major Italian peak straddling the Swiss Italian border. But the ski tour is more in the mountain group east of the Ortler. Accessed via Solda (the Italian Solda!), Santa Caterina or the Val Martello, the Ortler is another dynamic tour without a strict agenda. Visitors can research what they want to ski, have a tick list, then as conditions permit start to move around and ski the favored lines and peaks. Classics include the Cevedale, the Punta San Matteo and the magnificent Gran Zebru, or Königspitze in German. One issue with the Ortler is the requirement to exit where you started, this or a very complicated process of getting back.

The Silvretta Group, Austria

Beginning in Ischgl, Austria, on the north end of the Silvretta Group, this ski tour sits on the Swiss Austrian border and can either be done as a point to point, or a dynamic tour with multiple nights in the same huts. Arguably the nicest hut on any ski tour in Europe is on this tour, the Jamtal Hut; complete with wi-fi, climbing gym and luxurious private rooms. The tour is typically started in Ischgl with a tram ascent before a short tour to the first hut, the Heidelberger. From here it is possible to move through the range east to west, essentially making a big circle connecting huts and ending just up valley from Ischgl at the village Galtur.

The Piz Bernina Group, Switzerland

As much a mountaineering experience as ski tour, the Bernina Tour is very much a dynamic agenda. This is big, alpine, glaciated terrain that requires absolute knowledge of much more than skiing. The starting point is almost certainly the Diavolezza Cable Car which takes you to one of Europe’s most impressive “Huts”. The Diavolezza Hut is really more of a hotel and fine restaurant complete with arguably the best view in all the Alps. The tour usually begins with an ascent of the Piz Palu before heading to any number of options which allow for a bouncing around the Bernina Group. Climb the Bernina itself, the easternmost 4000 meter peak in the Alps, or head south into Italy before crossing back to the Swiss side to Sils Maria or the Coaz Hut.

Choosing the European Alps Ski Tour : The Criteria

For ranking, I considered the following factors: the views, the huts, the skiing, can you escape, logistics and the overall experience. Details to rank are below. My choice for best of category sets the standard, then the others are compared to the best. A 5 is the highest, 1 the lowest.

The "yard" as seen from the Ortler's Rifugio Branca, 5 star terrain

The Views: This one is simple, how dramatic is the landscape you are in. Will you be blown away by the views and is it a completely unique experience because of this.

The Huts: Undoubtedly all the huts are going to impress an American visitor and be a big part of the overall feel – but truly, some are a lot better than others. Food is a big factor, remote alpine huts get their food flown in and as such it is not so fresh. Others, closer to villages get fresh food daily and the quality can be much higher. Some huts even offer private rooms and showers, others only dorm style rooms and no showers.

The skiing in the Alps can be big and intimidating. Berner Oberland.

The Skiing: This one was tricky as all have great ski terrain. But, the nature of the tours can affect how you get to ski, or how easily accessible it is based on the tour itself. For instance, the Haute Route requires you get from point A to point B. You don’t always have the time to get to ski what you want vs. what you have to ski to get to where you need to be. This compared to tours like the Ortler where you wake up and base your objective on the conditions, the crowds and your energy.

The Escape: Can you get away? Can you get some terrain to yourself? Or, are you going to be in a procession in a skin track trench followed by a carved up descent. There is always the possibility of escape, but how friendly is the terrain to allow this and how much time will you have to do so.

The Logistics: This is one of the big ones for a visiting American skier. Having to rely on huts, knowing how to get in and out of areas, glaciers, weather, and knowing how and where to find the escapes – make for logistical issues, some more than others. Researching information about these ski tours is overwhelming if you are a first time visitor. Meanwhile, the huts are a blessing and a curse in that they complicate matters by having to decide when you’ll arrive, booking, and making them all work out with conditions. You must reserve space at huts. The weather can change your plans and then affect your entire agenda, this is what is looked at for the rating. How easy is it to “deal” with the tour’s logistics.

The Haute Route

The Overall Experience: Every one of these tours is going to be a great experience, but again, the standard I have set is according to which is potentially most rewarding. Countless factors weigh in to influence the overall; the weather, the snow, the group, the season, etc… and of course all the subjective factors as well.

Using a Mountain Guide

The decision to use a mountain guide to do these tours is highly recommended. Immediately the logistics issue is solved, the ability to escape a possibility, and the overall experience will probably be much better. Also, if the weather is bad, instead of sitting it out inside, a guide will likely have an entertaining backup plan. With regards to a guide, I have heard people say, “How hard can it be, get in the trench and go”. This might be true if the weather is splitter and you are there high season (April), but the second the sky closes, it whites out and you are on a glacier, the trip goes to hell quite quickly. The Alps are not to be taken lightly, they may be crowded, but they are not tame – it is serious terrain. See guides list, bottom.

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The Alps Ski Tours Compared

Conclusion

So what does this mean? The Haute Route sucks? Not at all, it means the Haute Route has the potential for the biggest experience and best views, it is just difficult to pull off without some logistical help. And the Berner Oberland is the best? Maybe, for me… I had great conditions each time I was there and it is consistent across the board. If I had to choose, the best ski tour is undoubtedly the Ortler. The Haute Route is something every skier must do, the Berner is simply an amazing place with great skiing, the Silvretta a close second to the Ortler in every way, and the Bernina a place for ski mountaineering.

Point being…. they are all great. But if you are going to choose just one, then I hope this method helps you determine which tour is best for what you are after.

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American UIAGM Guides Specializing in European Ski Touring

These are all friends and guides we know to be fully knowledgeable about Alp ski tours. I asked them about the list to see which tour they would comment on.

Cosley Houston Mountain Guides : Our favorite? You’re asking us to walk into a French chocolatière and pick out the single best morsel. Well, we have to give very high marks to the Ortler. Perhaps it the showers, or the full bar, or the great food, the cappuccinos, the hut keepers, or the great terrain where most every day takes in a high summit.

The Queyras, southeast of Grenoble, also deserves honorable mention. This is the “Wild West” (well, East, actually) of France. Great snow, fine huts with showers! and very few other skiers. There’s a good chance you’ll do some trail breaking here.

But, really, all the tours are great. Each has its own unique flavor, and rewards. And they all require skiing, lots of skiing. So how bad can that be?

Francis Kelsey : The Haute Route. It’s the oldest and most well known tour. Even though the shortest way between two points is a straight line, I prefer a few detours along the way and like to mix things up a bit. Some of the best skiing I have done has been on this tour. With any tour or trip into the mountains, timing and knowledge play crucial roles on how the trip unfolds and also on how interesting (ie fun) it turns out. There are very few tours that will bring such incredible diversity and feeling of accomplishment as the Haute Route. This route brings every mountain skill set into play, nearly every time.

And finally, how appropriate is it to rally two of the world’s alpine meccas via skis. That’s just plain uber cool.

Howie Schwartz : Sierra Mountain Guides : Our favorite is the Ortler, even though it is so trendy now, but we like to start in Solda with an amazing off-piste day at the resort. Then the intensity ramps up to classic ski mountaineering and steep descents. We are skiers and this is truly a skiers circuit that maximizes the quantity and quality of skiing. Certainly less high and wild than some of the other more classic tours but, as you know, the food and espresso are in another league in Italia. I think for Americans that already get their wilderness experiences closer to home, the Ortler is a very unique and special ski destination.

Tim Connelly : The Ortler Tour: Some of my favorite skiing days have been had in that great playground standing opposite the Rifugio Branca. The ins and outs of Cima Giacomo and P.Matteo and the longer journeys through Palon de la Mare on to P. Taviela, just such good times. Of course skiing from the summit of Il Gran Zebru will have a special place in my heart; grinning still at the memory

The Haute route (via Verbier): While touted as the over used/ busy trade route of the alps I have had some spectacular days on this route that will keep me raving about it. Isolated, steep lines from Rosablanche and around Arolla remind me of my La Grave haunts and full on high mountain adventures around the Pigne de Arolla have tried to kick my butt — love it! I’ll be back.

Margaret Wheeler : ProGuiding

Mike Bromberg : Mountain Pro : It’s hard to pick a favorite when each tour has it’s own unique character, but the one thing I can be definitive about, is that the Ortler crushes the competition when it comes to Coffee quality. I generally prefer a circuit with layover days planned at several huts as opposed to point to point traverses in order to really maximize the ski potential and achieve a greater sense of place in a specific area. Keep your style in mind (fast & light or freerider?) and remember that shared expectations will end up being crucial to the success of any mountain experience.

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Rating: 5.0/5 (2 votes cast)

Smartwool Product Review

Apr 25th, 2010

by dolomitesport.

3 comments

Wool vs. Synthetics

Over the years I have worn a lot of synthetic clothing. For whatever reason I am drawn to sports which synthetics seem well suited, typically in the form of lycra or spandex. Cycling, nordic racing, running, ski rando racing, etc… my games, all wrapped in lycra.

But then a few years back we started doing much of Smartwool’s advertising photography, at which time the Creative Manager started pushing wool on me. I politely dodged the idea and carried on with my own beliefs in syntheticism. I think it’s my road biking background that tainted me. Wool is something Eddy Merckx wore – in the 70’s… In my mind, we evolved into, uh, plastic clothing. Expensive plastic clothing! It pills, stinks, melts to your skin when you crash and has inconsistent performance. Did I mention it is made from oil?
Finally, as I seem to be kind of off the back with the trend, I decided to try the wool thing. The Smartwool Creative Manager, who has since become a friend, sent me a big box of fun hats, gloves and baselayers (Thanks!). I agreed to use it and review it – but the policy holds – I speak my mind.

Boot packing with the Lightweight Zip and a Microweight T

Reviews are subjective – is the reviewer someone you are willing to listen to? Brief Resume: I have close to 100 days skiing the backcountry each season and am in the mountains 320+ days each year – I have 23 years in the Outdoor Industry as both a professional photographer and athlete.

Smartwool : The Facts (as I see them)

Performance: I have primarily been using Smartwool’s Micro and Lightweight baselayers, both have a wider range of comfort than what I am used to in synthetics, meaning they keep me warm in the cold temps but not too warm when the temps increase. The feel is one of the things I like best, the Merino wool feels like cotton but performs as needed for temperature regulation and breathability.
Wicking/Drying: Wool suffers a bit from sweating, it does stay wet longer. But, it doesn’t feel clammy against the skin. Also, I found that as long as the layering system is not too far out of its temperature range, and gets some airflow, the wool will dry quickly.
Stink Factor: Unrivaled… Smartwool does not stink, no matter how hard I tried, and oh did I try, it just doesn’t stink, even the socks. Some of that 100 days in the backcountry were consecutive, without washing. Friends appreciated the switch to wool, many have switched themselves on stink factor alone.
Criticism?: I would like to see more sporty designs for athletes. Tighter fitting with more elastic that allows the sleeves to be pushed up without then becoming baggy. Also, designs incorporating different weights and materials into a paneled performance piece. Finally, for the baselayers; some stripes, accents, something! I don’t see this stuff as underwear, in many ways it is technical clothing, I want it to look the part.

Smartwool's Merino is undoubtedly more comfortable and cozy

Smartwool Summary

The Merino wool that Smartwool uses is the best feeling material against my skin. Wool seems to have a wider comfort range than synthetics but still, for high exertion activities it is important to not over layer. Get to know the systems and the temperature range they work within. And the socks? Simply the best, they last forever and maintain a snug, cozy fit.

Best of all, wool supports my firm belief that all things natural are best. I am sold.

Want to see more photos from the Italian Dolomites and our recent Smartwool Shoot, click here.

Support Smartwool, it keeps sheep employed Globwooly

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Visit Smartwool’s fun site complete with many photos from PatitucciPhoto

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Disclaimer : In no way has PatitucciPhoto/DolomiteSport been paid to do this Review, it was our idea based on being happy with the product.

Rating: 5.0/5 (1 vote cast)

Italian Dolomites Backcountry Ski Camping

Apr 22nd, 2010

by dolomitesport.

3 comments

Huts vs. Camping

“But one doesn’t really camp in the Dolomites…”.

I knew further protest could jeopordize work for a favorite client, instead I listened, “But for the shoot we need camping, we want to see that kind of ski tour, no huts”.

The PatitucciPhoto workplace

“No huts?” The pain was lessened by the fact that the huts are actually closed this time of year so camping would not include any windblown scent of Penne all’Arrabbiata. “Ok, let’s do it.” But my next thought was, “With whom are we going to do it?” Italians don’t camp in their own mountains, and with snow on the ground, I had some work to do.

Enter Alberto De Giuli (aka BG, Bloody Gorgeous): BG, “Sure, when do we go?” Me, “Really!?” BG, “Ya, let’s do it, and I know the spot”. Me, “We need someone else, another guy.” …”My friend Andrea will join us”. This was too easy, something was wrong.

Enter Stress: The weather forecast for our shoot days went from sun, to snow. I considered canceling. Then, with 48 hours to go it turned to iffy.

Enter Volcano: Let’s not forget the eruption and a little change in the wind direction that put Europe under an ash fallout warning. More stress.

Enter Good Fortune: The morning we were to start was crystal clear and cold with ash free blue skies. As if made to order, 10cm of fresh snow covered the Dolomites. Our approach was track free, things were looking good. With the huts closed, less people were venturing into the mountains, our determination was going to pay off. A little piece of the Dolomites would be our own.

Smartwool Review

This is our third year shooting advertising for Smartwool. Early on the Marketing Boss saw Janine and I as photographers with whom he would like to build a relationship. Rather than hire us for a shoot to see how it went, he had the vision of building a relationship where together we developed a style for the brand. It wasn’t a one off, it was a multi-year commitment. For all involved it has been great.

Camping in the Dolomites

But, there is the case of my stubborn willingness to try wool. For this, I am teased and taunted. Janine is a long time fan while I have been committed to synthetics. Finally, this last December we received a size-able box of Smartwool goodies as a gift. I dug in, liked what I saw, and implemented wool into my wardrobe. I told Smartwool I would review the stuff, but that I would do it with an honest voice.

Briefly, I like it. A lot. And the fashion & function conscious Italians? “Bello”, was repeated over and over. But, the Gear Review will have to wait and be part 2 of this little tale.

Smartwool Consensus: Andrea & Alberto say "Thumbs Up"

Andrea Gabrielli skiing powder

Enter an Admission: NOT being in a hut was fantastic. It all came back to me, my roots, how it all started, that feeling of being out and not on any program. Melting snow, sleeping on ice, being cold, the wind, everything frozen… well ya, it does kind of suck. But this sort of experience tends to come with lots of laughter, the people make it, they always do. BG was, as always, brilliant fun. And his friend Andrea was equally as fun – all this made for a great time. For two days it was how it all started, Janine and I living in a tent, charging around the mountains, making photos of friends.

And with this realization came another; As much as I love using huts, they don’t belong everywhere. There is something about the freedom and that little added hardship which completes the mountain experience (but not all the time). California’s Sierra Nevada come to mind. I have been engaged in a friendly debate regarding this subject with several close friends back in my home mountains. I am throwing in the towel. While planning a month climbing in the Sierra later this year with Janine and Alberto, I am finding myself increasingly excited to get into the backcountry and on our own (BG, …more of the same minus the snow).

Pasta dinner - of course, it's Italy

Alpine start to make the summit for sunrise

Andrea and Alberto bootpacking the last bit to the summit

Sunrise made better with volcanic ash in the Dolomites

Andrea Gabrielli skiing in the Italian Dolomites

Rating: 5.0/5 (4 votes cast)

Sierra Backcountry Spring Powder

Apr 6th, 2010

by dolomitesport.

3 comments

Ben Grasseschi plowing along

A foot at the house...

The Endless Winter

Janine, Dan and a large group of friends are headed into the Sierra for 5 days of work; alpine climbing and ski touring. The Sierra got wind of this and decided it would be best to do a little tidying up of the backdrops with nearly a meter of fresh snow. Not sure if that is what we really wanted, but we got it. Plans have been adjusted accordingly.

Today we thought it important to do a little, uhhmm uhhm, “scouting”. What we found was an amazing amount of powder for April in the Sierra Backcountry. Last week we were skiing corn and even had reports that a good harvest was found at 13,000 feet. Corn & flip flops turned to powder. This truly is the Endless Winter in the Eastern Sierra Nevada. The Sierra have been the perfect host for our winter stay. Much appreciated.

Next week we’ll have a batch of Eastern Sierra photos and hopefully tales of turns and sun.

Janine Patitucci missing the spring a little less today

Rating: 5.0/5 (1 vote cast)

Return to Sierra Backcountry Powder

Apr 1st, 2010

by dolomitesport.

1 comment

We really thought we would get skunked today, not for snow – but for howling winds and driving snow – low vis, cold, the return of winter. Our days of skiing corn are a thing of the past. Janine was totally irritated. The woman wants warm, sunny days. But, our friend Stuart was a motivating force for us to drive to Mammoth and have a look at the backcountry options. We went, we parked – whiteout. At this point in the day a poor decision was made, only the point and shoot was along for the ride.

90 minutes later, as we neared the small summit of Punta Bardini, things began to look better. Just in time for the skins off & off zippers up, the sun broke through, the wind ceased to roar and we were all smiles. Two laps later we were at the car, wow, maybe the best powder of the Sierra backcountry year – on March 31. Happy happy spring.

Facts & Figures: about 18 inches of powder above the town of Mammoth Lakes. Steeper slopes, >30 degrees, we saw some slabs cut loose, heads up. Everything is super wind affected thanks to the 120+mph winds we had. Powder is out there but get it while you can.