Thomas Voeckler with the Pain Face

This post is going to be a community effort – in other words, at the end of the story, I need your own contribution on this subject -but first, read on.

Recently, while suffering mightily in a race, I actually pondered the question, “What do other people think about in competitive events when they are suffering?” Apparently, I think about blogging. But not just this, I was trying to stay focused, maintain my breathing and be aware of my body to see where/if I could either save some energy or be more efficient at my max for the distance. But all of this only goes so far, at some point the other stuff creeps in; doubt, anxiety, longing to be finished, and fear of being caught. From my years of being a competitive athlete, I know that all this stuff needs to be managed.

What seems like a lifetime ago, I was a young road racer living in Davis, California. One spring I did California’s Visalia Road Race in a full field of 100 plus riders. Alone, with about 8 miles remaining and one big climb, I got away from the group. There, on the last climb, I realized that all my training was for this moment, and we don’t get them so often.

I’d spent the winter riding obsessively, also alone, in miserably wet, foggy and windy conditions of California’s Central Valley. I vividly remember days riding on partially flooded farm roads, where each pedal stroke dunked my foot in brown water. I can still see the rain drops as they dripped from the rim of my hat while I sat changing a flat tire with soaked, wrinkled skin and numb fingers in the muck on the side of some country road. It was no surprise I was the only one out.

In Visalia I managed to stay away, I rolled over the top of the climb and began my descent knowing I had a chance. Inside my head came the voices, “A chase group is coming”, “They are better descenders”, “They are closer than you think”, “How will I keep it together for the flat section to the finish?” This is the stuff that needs to be managed. “Fuck all that, this is why I spent all those hours sitting in the rain and wind.” For perhaps the first time in my life, I was 100% focused on what I wanted, everything else dropped away. Inside my Pain Face was one thing only, determination.

At the bottom of the descent I took the last right turn wide, got out of the saddle and started sprinting the final section of straight road through a corridor of orange trees. Ahead was the finish line and some audible cheers from the meager crowd. With 200 meters to go, I looked back over my shoulder to see the chase group in full pursuit. Every rider was out of the saddle sprinting towards the line. My Pain Face turned into something else when I looked forward again, I was crossing the finish first. From not having anything in my head to having it all, that moment is mine.

Still in a full sprint, I did something that surprised no one more than myself. I didn’t stop, I kept going, straight to my little white pickup where I jumped off my bike, threw it in the back, grabbed my hidden key, jumped in and sped away. What could have been my first big victory salute on a finish line was saved for the privacy of my own car. Maybe I wasn’t ready to get outside my head, I wanted it all to myself.

Ultimately, unless you are a professional athlete, the outcome does not matter – what matters is what goes on inside your head, for that is what you really experience.

My Question to You

What do you think about at times like this? You ultra runners… what are your thoughts at mile 80 when you’re hurting and full of doubt? Or, the ski mountaineering racers on those long and painful climbs when there are someone else’s ski tips on your tails? And you bike racers in a break wondering if everyone else hurts as much as you do as you rotate through to the front? What goes through your head? Are you focused on your body? Managing the stress? Thinking about ice cream? Or are your thoughts scrambled, a little of this, a little of that?

Please, for all you athletes regardless of what you compete in, leave a comment here and let’s hear your thoughts.

Thank you in advance to those the contribute.

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One of the most fun things we get to do as photographers is to see and use new products well in advance of their release. This was certainly the case when Petzl France contacted us to shoot photos for their new NAO Headlamp. Our job was to shoot trail and mountain running photos using this new lighting technology. Job done, the headlamps were our’s to keep using and put to the test for DolomiteSport.

It is very obvious that more and more people are using lighting systems to get them out after daylight hours. And why not? The lights have advanced to such a state that most anything is possible. Nowhere is this more true than with this new offering from Petzl.

Reactive Lighting is the technology. Above the NAO’s two lamps is a sensor which immediately interprets the distance and intensity at which the light must function. Aim the headlamp at your feet and you have enough light & contrast to see, raise your head and direct the light to infinity and the light instantly becomes a monstrously powerful high beam; easily enough light for descending on skis quickly, scope the next pitches or see where your running trail is taking you. The beam distance is about 100 meters at full intensity. But, aim it to your feet or just meters in front of you and the beam is back to normal headlamp output, saving both battery power and your eyes. Simply put, the headlamp instantly provides exactly the right amount of light you require based on where you look.

Petzl NAO Headlamp front view. The sensor is above the lamps. The large switch is on the left side in the photo, the black square knob.

I have been using the headlamp ski mountaineering training and have found it perfect. For descending, there is the added option of being able to change the light from reactive to a fixed high power beam with the quick flip of a large switch for gloved hands – easy. With the high beam activated, descents, even at the highest speeds and technical terrain are zero issue. This light can replace those massive Silva lights popular for so long.

While descending recently with a friend after a night ski mountaineering training session, I skied behind and cast my light in front of my friend. He said he felt like a snow cat was following him.

Here in Europe, the LED Lenser headlamps have become quite popular, denting the market for both BD and Petzl. The LED Lenser was an instant hit thanks to its massively powerful high beam in a small package. I too jumped on board and got one so I was able to compare the Petzl NAO and LED Lenser side by side. The Petzl NAO is much more powerful, only slightly larger, with better battery life and much more comfortable to wear on either the head or helmet. Perhaps the only slight disadvantage of the NAO is its size. If you’re familiar with the Petzl MYO RXP lamp, the NAO is just slightly larger but certainly not much heavier. However, for the small amount of added bulk, you have a lighthouse beacon on your head.

Petzl NAO Headlamp rear view with battery. The head strap is a combo elastic band and adjustable cinch cord which has proven very comfortable and secure with no irritating wiggle.

My battery tests are still a work in progress. But, with the NAO’s rechargeable battery, I seem to be getting about 6-8 hours on reactive lighting, and Petzl tells me this will drop to just a few hours if kept on a fixed high beam. With reactive lighting and the occasional switch to fixed high beam, I expect around 4-5  hours of battery life. I believe this is conservative, more than enough light for most uses. If you do need more battery life, carry a spare, they can be switched out while on the fly.

The battery itself is USB and capable of being charged from an iPhone charger with USB cable, ditto with the car charger – this has been handy.

System Summary

1. On/Off switch is easily adjusted with gloves on. Finally!!!  Bravo Petzl!

2. Extremely comfortable on the head.

3. It’s obvious real users designed the NAO.

4. You always have just the right amount of light, never left wanting more.

5. Petzl high quality.

Petzl tells me they have some additional features for this light coming soon… The NAO Headlamp will be available July 2012.

For the mountain sport athlete looking to perform at night, this is the light to use.

See and learn more about the NAO at Petzl.com

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Thanks to Manuel Riz www.manuelriz.blogspot.com

The Problem of Too Many Motorcycles in the Dolomites

(Note 12/19/11 : Thanks to so much great support, this post is getting a ton of traffic, BUT – having views means nothing if we are going to show it to the powers that can do something about this problem, PLEASE – Leave a comment)

It’s time to bring up a nasty subject that many who visit the Dolomites experience in a very negative way. For years now I have felt growing anger and frustration for the thousands of motorcycles that come to the Italian Dolomites. I finally brought it up to locals, business owners and my athlete friends and promptly discovered I’m not the only one who feels this way. So angry are they that the subject is almost painful to discuss, for it seems nothing is being done about it. I however, am more than happy to publicly state my thoughts and make it clear that these motorcycles are a cancer to this amazing region.

Motorbikes on the Passo Gardena

The Dolomites are unarguably one of the world’s most beautiful landscapes and everyone has the right to experience them. But why is one user group allowed to negatively impact the experience of all the others while at the same time causing numerous disturbances to the natural environment in the forms of noise and exhaust pollution as well as a very real threat to the safety of others.

The problem is that motorcyclists come from all over Europe to ride the Dolomite’s famously steep and curvy mountain roads. This is fine as an activity, but the manner in which all too many do it is completely irresponsible on the part of both the riders and local authorities.

This last summer was my first spent climbing some of the walls in the Dolomites. Nowhere is the issue of these motorcycles more apparent than up high where there should be no sound but the wind and jingling of climbing gear. Yet here, the roar of motorcycles is a nearly nonstop irritant. They are so loud it is often impossible to hear one’s partner. Numerous friends came for both climbing and cycling and all made the same comment, “This is disgusting”.

And the Dolomites are a UNESCO World Heritage Site? What a joke. It would be better named the UNESCO International Motor Speedway.

The Dolomites UNESCO Status

This from the UNESCO Page regarding the criterion of managing the Dolomites in accordance with UNESCO Requirements:

“The property requires protection from tourism pressures and related infrastructure. Each of the component parts of the serial property requires its own individual management plan, providing not only for the protection and management of land use, but also the regulation and management of human activities to maintain its values, and in particular to preserve the qualities of its natural landscapes and processes, including extensive areas which still have wilderness character. Areas that are subject to more intensive visitation need to be managed to ensure visitor numbers and activities are within the capacity of the property in relation to the protection of both its values and the experience of visitors to the property. Adequate resources and staffing, and coordination between the staff teams in the different components of the property are also essential.”

Seemingly nothing is adhered to. Protection from infrastructure? They just keep building; pistes, lifts, hotels, access roads, you name it. Maintain the values of human activities? Apparently loud motor sports are a historical activity and value. Or maybe they just see, “Maintain value”, as in €€€. Preserve the qualities of natural environment? In many places of the Dolomites it sounds like you are at the Indy speedway. And it seems the only staffing is by politicians looking to satisfy businesses within the region who everyone knows pockets most of their earnings to avoid exorbitantly high Italian tax rates.

Meanwhile, the Italian police, in their typical show of dramatic yet completely inefficient force, have set up speed traps on busy summer days. The joke is, according to Italian law they must post signs warning oncoming traffic of the impending radar check that lay just ahead. The motorcycles slow to legal speeds, pass by, then resume their ear splitting roar after the next curve in the road. …”Ha ha carabinieri. Fools.”

Or, as is well known, motorcyclists come in groups and send one rider ahead to check for police or anything that may be in the way of his friends – once all clear, he calls back and gives the go ahead for his 18 buddies to charge full bore up or down a pass. Never mind the cyclists silently pedaling along who have to listen to or be nearly taken out by the mirrors on these super bikes. The father of a close friend was killed by a motorcycle while riding his bike up a Dolomites Pass in just such a scenario.

While riding here, I have seen several serious crashes and countless near misses when they lose control in turns, or veer right into my line, when they can’t control the power of the bike they have rented.

What Can be Done?

I have heard from local businesses that there is a fear that with increased motorcycle regulations will come a decrease in revenue. But wait, motorcyclists can’t drink beer during the day. And, it is commonly known that many do not stay in hotels within the Dolomites but opt to stay outside where it is cheaper, the same place where they eat dinner so they aren’t driving at night. I asked several friends who have affordable hotels right in the Dolomites if they ever have motorcylists as guests. The answer, “Almost never”. Why can’t these businesses turn their attention to other summer tourists who also come in great numbers; hikers, cyclists, and climbers.

There are grumblings from within the region, namely from Michil Costa, a local hotel owner and well known activist who strives to keep a handle on tourism gone wild. But it would seem that like so many things, the almighty Euro speaks loudest. As tourists grow tired of the Dolomites experience, or word does get out of the problem, perhaps would be visitors will go elsewhere. All the many tourism websites and magazine articles glorifying the Italian Dolomites are not telling the whole truth. Like my friends all said, “It is disgusting”.

The only thing that may change this is if other tourists begin making it clear that these motorcycles are not tolerable. The web, forums and social media are great ways to start. Italy was one of the first countries in the EU to do something about second hand cigarette smoke in restaurants – how different is this? A solution is to remove some of the freedom these motorcycles are abusing. Have some real speed traps with huge fines, have real noise ordinances that are enforced, and multiple offenders lose the right to drive a motorbike. I do not see this problem on Swiss passes where there are regulations and consequences for breaking them. There I see motorcycles, not in the same numbers, but I see them riding slower and not making nearly the same noise.

The Impact on Dolomite Cyclists, Hikers and Climbers

Visiting mountain lovers be warned. It can be horribly obnoxious and occasionally dangerous here, so much so that I mostly refuse to ride my bike on any of the best passes from about July 1 through early September. Also, educate yourself about the German and Austrian holidays in May and June, for these periods have the Dolomites a virtual racetrack for big, fast bikes.

The Sellaronda Bike (Bicycle) Day

A move in the right direction regarding awareness comes in the form of the now twice annual Sellaronda Bike Day. This event, held early in the summer and again in mid September, draws 16,000 cyclists to enjoy the famous Sellaronda Loop, on closed roads. In addition to the cyclists are an increase in the number of hikers and climbers who can now enjoy one of the most beautiful areas of the Dolomites in silence. The event has brought about awareness and acknowledgement that these tourists, ever hungry and thirsty, bring in enormous revenue while not impacting the environment.

Have you been to the Dolomites? What was your experience?

This is where I ask for your comments. Pressure needs to be put on the region from those that come and spend money. Voice your opinion. If you have been to the Dolomites and had experiences with the motorbikes, good or bad, please let us know. Leave a comment and we’ll make sure the messages and experiences are passed on to the Tourism Board.

(Note 12/19/11 : Thanks to so much great support, this post is getting a ton of traffic, BUT – having views means nothing if we are going to show it to the powers that can do something about this problem, PLEASE - Leave a comment)

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Over the summer I was training with an American cyclist friend visiting the Dolomites. He’s ten years younger, still competitive and hungry for results. At the time I was moderately fit on the bike, so together we rode hard in the mountains. He destroyed me. Back at my place one day I was recalling a story for him when I said, “I was listening to This American Life on my headphones while riding and…” . “Whoa, wait a second”, he stopped me. “You were listening to a podcast and not Slipknot while training?”. This little question made things very clear.

Unmistakable signs of age. They are showing up. I’m trying to convince myself that these subtle little changes are okay, let’s see what the natural aging process does. On the bike, one thing becoming very commonplace, is the Stop.

What is the Stop? It’s simple, it is saying yes to that nagging call of seeing a great spot while out riding, but actually stopping, getting out of the pedals and off the bike, and actually parking your padded, and possibly chamois creamed, rear on a bench/wall/rock/grass or cafe chair. There are few more enjoyable things to do in life. It is a pause while loving something to simply soak it all in, where you are, how you feel, and to really take in where your legs have gotten you.

I’ve known about the importance of the Stop for many years as I had an experience prove the value of taking this time for myself. I grew up bike racing in Sacramento, California. The beautiful American River Bike Trail was my commuting road, my training ground and even as a kid, my way to school. One particular bench became a standard stop. There I sat with friends and drank coffee while bike commuting to work. There I sat and ate a bar after a huge training day and River Ride. There I sat to soak in it all, being an athlete, being alive and out doing what I love.

In 1997, life took me to Alaska where I commercial fished for 6 months. It was a trying and difficult time. Sometimes 40 hours would go by without sleep and the resulting mental state would have me hallucinating to other places, other times. More than any other place I would drift off to was that bench. It was the natural place my mind would seek safety and comfort. Even so very faw away, I had to go to that bench.

Now, I seek out these Stops. Equally as important as the ride’s experience are the little additions I give it. Ultimately, these things are more important than my average heart rate or kilometers ridden. Today I stopped at a bench I know well and felt the warmth of an unusually warm December day dry my sweat after a 500 meter climb. I looked down on my valley, frozen in the shadows yet glowing in the sun, and I simply enjoyed being.

My road home

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The Sciora Hut sits directly beneath much of the climbing

When Americans think of climbing in Europe, one thing typically comes to mind; limestone. But for climbers visiting Europe who want a little something closer to what they know, and an experience of a lifetime, the Alps also have a massive amount of granite. Chamonix tends to steal the show for showcasing granite, but this summer we went snooping around to some other areas known for long, easy to moderate, granite climbs. Our favorites; Switzerland’s Göschenental and its Bergseeschijen and Salbit groups, which will come in a later DolomiteSport post. First up, the Graubunden Region, specifically the Sciora Group and Piz Badile area above the Val Bregaglia, Switzerland.

The North Ridge of the Piz Badile

This was the second time we had climbed in this region as in 2005 we climbed the famous Piz Badile. Since that visit, we had long wanted to return to see what else lay nearby, but also to return to the magic feeling that this historically rich region offers. Here, only 35km from glitzy St. Moritz is another world; one of silence, traditional ways, a unique dialect of Italian and architecture much the same as centuries past. Driving through Switzerland’s Val Bregaglia, far below the north facing walls of the Sciora group which serves as the Swiss Italian Border, one must decide which to marvel at more, the ancient, intact villages and lifestyle, or the towering granite spires.

The Sasc Fura Hut

Luckily, both get to be experienced. For to visit the Sciora Group means to start from the village of Bondo. Here, one enters the stone walls feeling very much an outsider. Once inside, a walking tour is recommended as a kind of time travel to another era. When you are ready to start the approach to the huts, drive through the village to a payment machine, here you pay to pass on dirt roads to the trailheads far above town.

From the parking area, there is one trail along the river, after a few minutes walking the trail splits, left to the Sciora Hut, right to the Sasc Fura. The Sasc Fura is the standard hut for the Piz Badile’s North Ridge, arguably the finest easy ridge route in all the Alps. For North Face routes, both the Sasc Fura and Sciora Hut are used, although huge amounts of rockfall traversing to the North Face from the Sciora has closed this approach.

Thomy Engl cragging beneath the Sciora Group

Piz Badile North Ridge

If you are doing the Piz Badile North Ridge, 5.6 , be sure to walk the approach from the hut to the route the day before to familiarize yourself with the path as it will be done in the pre-dawn darkness and is a bit of a footrace between climbing parties. You do not want to be stuck behind slow parties on this route. Here, Euro climbing etiquette must be understood. If you are not used to climbing in the Alps on busy routes, get ready for some interesting times. It can either be very aggravating or very entertaining, just don’t let it be too time consuming, you need to be safe and you need to get down. But this is a whole different topic…

The Piz Badile North Ridge, 5.6

The route lives up to its reputation, it is absolutely superb climbing on perfect stone in a stunning setting. We were first to the route the day we did it so had no delays. Our climbing time with some photostops was 4.5 hours. The rack included, draws, cams .5, #1 and #2, a few stoppers, several long slings and double 50M ropes. The route is bolted and if you are comfortable running it out at these grades, draws are enough. The anchors are all BIG rings. Most parties opt to descend south into Italy and figure out how to get back around to the Swiss side using buses or taxis. We chose to rappel the route, which turned out to be slightly slower than the climb, but thanks to great anchors was epic free. We were back at the hut in time for pre-dinner beers.

The Sciora Group

Bouldering out the door of the Sciora Hut

If you are in the area for an extended stay and more moderate routes, you may opt to head over to the Sciora Hut next. The day after climbing the Piz Badile, get up early and walk the two hours to the Sciora Hut. Once at the Sciora mid-morning, you can choose to either go cragging or do a shorter route on the Torre Innominata east of the hut. We walked the hour up to the Innominata, an imposing wall that becomes much friendlier at the base. Here are several classic lines from which to choose; both the Hofmeister Jubilaum (6b/5.10c) and Via di Mezzo (6a+/5.10a/b) are superb routes. The Hofmeister being steeper and more like a Yosemite line and the Via di Mezzo reminiscent of Tuolumne Meadows climbing. 10 quickdraws and a small rack is sufficient. The Hofmeister requires a bit more gear.

Thomy Engl on the Via di Mezzo (6a+), Innominata

Punta Pioda

Next up are some much bigger undertakings. At this point, we lost two days to heavy rain and snow and so did just one more big route, the Punta Pioda’s NW Ridge. This is a very long and uncomplicated 5.6 slab route up a seemingly endless rounded ridge. The climbing was good, the rock solid and the day worthy. We had intended to do the descent off the summit via the Pioda-Dafora Traverse back north to get in some more climbing, but with all the fresh snowfall the north facing gulleys were completely buried and iced up. Once again, we found ourselves with a lot of rappeling, 22 to be exact, the same as the number of pitches, a long day!

Thomy Engl on the Punta Pioda

For the Punta Pioda we took 10 draws, a few slings, a few nuts and double 50M ropes. The route is bolted although with some sizeable gaps. The climbing is mostly much easier than 5.6 with a few standout sections of harder climbing.

The other classic objectives from the Sciora Hut are, to name just a few:

Scioretta : Fuori Ridge (VII+/6c/5.11a) and Direct Variation (VI-/5c/5.8). Quite possibly the line you will look at and want to climb in the group. These are also long and involved routes, not to be taken lightly for length and time.

Ago di Sciora : The West Ridge (V+/5.7). Just a lower section of the main rib before the rock quality drops.

Pizzi Gemelli : Bügeleisen (V/5.7). A super popular classic slab climb up a flawless ridge.

The Punta Pioda (l) and Ago di Sciora (r)

These are but a few popular routes, there are may, many more from which to choose, including the Piz Badile North Face routes, some of the most classic in the Alps.

Val Bregaglia Graubunden Climbing Guidebooks

The Alpine Club Guidebook Series: Bernina and Bregaglia by Lindsey Griffin (English). The definitive guide to the entire region for English speakers and very helpful for deciding which routes to do.

Bergell by Jiri Novak (Czech and German). Helpful as well for deciding where and what to do.

We found the guidebooks in conjunction with online info were great for deciding where to go and getting a rough idea of what we wanted to do. The huts themselves have very detailed and current topos and route info for the entire area. This was the best source for actual detailed info. Show up to the huts ready for anything, decide what to do, then simply draw up your own topo based on what the hut provides for beta – it works perfect.

Hut Phone Numbers

Sasc Fura +41 (0)81 822 1252

Sciora Hut +41 (0)81 822 11 38

Hut reservations are mandatory for overnights, but call in advance, this is a popular area and the huts are small. Like most wardened European mountain huts, the price of entry provides a bed, dinner and breakfast. Snacks, day food, and drinks can also be purchased. Overnight with the two meals is about CHF60.

Summary

Our plan was to climb easy to moderate routes here and we did just that. The climbing itself is straightforward, and thanks to being well bolted, relatively easy route finding is possible. But, this is an alpine arena and the walls are big, therefore so is the potential for problems. While the hut sits below the alpine walls, there is a very real sense of being “out there”, yet once down from climbing, an hour walk returns you to friendly hut keepers, beer, great food, a fun social scene and comfortable beds.

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For about six years we made feeble attempts to get to Norway’s Lyngen Alps. A combination of not really understanding the logistics combined with our timing being off and/or the trip & lodging we wanted being full all added up to putting it off. Finally in March 2011 we made it and happily found it was worth the effort. It is a somewhat confusing area to research, but once there it all becomes clear. Hopefully this post will help make sense of it all prior to a visit.

As usual, our travel plans and itinerary are shaped by photoshoots, this was no exception. We were there to make some specific types of ice climbing photos. While we had always dreamt of the “Stay on a Boat” option, for this trip we needed to stay on land and with a car for mobility. Ice climbing and backcountry skiing were the focus. So, together with our friend, and pro climber, Kurt Astner, off we went.

Google “Lyngen Alps”, “Norway Skiing”, or any other combo of such and you are likely to get the Lyngen Lodge as your top hit. We did, and so we contacted them. It took forever to get a response, and when we finally did it was, “all full, all season”. We began to notice that there really are very few other lodging options with the exception of the Magic Mountain Lodge in Lyngseidet. An email went out, minutes later we had an answer, “available”. We booked and this turned out to be a blessing in disguise.

Lyngseidet from the Magic Mountain Lodge

Getting to the Lyngen Alps is easy; Fly to Norway (Oslo) and connect via another flight to Tromsø, rent a car, drive 2 hours and you are there. The driving part is easy, beautiful, and awe inspiring if it’s during the day. For us it was a white knuckle, pitch black drive through a howling blizzard. Tromsø, being a hip and interesting city is well worth a visit. If you arrive in the evening, consider an overnight stay.

We arrived to the Magic Mountain Lodge at about midnight and were very ready for our long travel day to end. Once there we walked into my dream world. For countless years I have dreamt of running a hotel in a great location that caters to mountain sport athletes – here it was. The couple (Patrik & Henrika) running the show were instantly welcoming, accommodating and new friends.

I asked Patrik for a beer, if possible something local. From behind the bar he pulled out three talls. “These are Macks, the world’s northernmost brewery”. He popped the tabs. “Also the most expensive”, he grinned. Gulp. We sipped, and then we gulped the beers. Superb, but yes damaging to the wallet.

As I always say about so many things, “It is all about the people”. This was never more true than with our stay at Magic Mountain Lodge.

Skiing in the Lyngen Alps

The blessing in disguise turned out to be the location. It always takes a visit to figure out how best to experience a mountain area, and one visit to the Lyngen Alps makes it clear that the best location to base yourself is indeed, the town of Lyngseidet. The fjords, while great, are mightily inconvenient for getting around as the roads take you in and out of every inlet. Of course there is the ferry, but it is time consuming as well, expensive and you must still drive. The primary area to ski in the Lyngen Alps, and the area you will look at and say, “Let’s go there” is directly accessed from the village of Lyngseidet. The Lyngen Lodge is located on the opposite side of the fjord, in much smaller mountains and requires traveling by boat over to the main area for skiing. One reason to stay on the opposite side is simple – the view is superb. But if you want to get up in the morning and go skiing with as little commute as possible, stay in Lyngseidet.

Where snow meets the sea

Another option is to stay on one of the many charter boats. These are large, comfy, liveable boats (small ships in some cases) that travel the fjords and dock or anchor close to the next days ski objective. We saw them everywhere, one day dropping off all 30 skiers on a beach and then heading up on skis behind us. We spoke to the guests and they reported a great time, although the rocking boat made some less than comfortable. Some operations offer much smaller groups for friends with guides. Or, join in on one the big boats and make new friends. Certainly a cool option.

Skiing to the beach from high in the Lyngen Alps

What to expect of the Skiing

Our trip was mid March and we found it to be superb. Two different thoughts seem to exist on when to go. The dead of winter for powder skiing, amazing light, and the likelihood of seeing the Aurora Borealis. Then there is the spring for longer days and still generally great skiing. We found the skiing to be as unique as the overall experience. As the approaches begin at the beach, the first few hundred meters up was often in slop that would put “Sierra cement” to shame. Then suddenly, like a line drawn, it would all change to powder. When it changed to a crust, we were still able to find powder skiing on the right aspect. Depending on where you go, you will start on the beach, skin through a brief forest, pop into alpine terrain and perhaps travel on glaciers on your way to a couloir, summit or high plateau. Your descents often put you right back on the beach – where else do you get to ski to the beach?

Hiring a Mountain Guide

Given that I said skiing in the Lyngen Alps will all make sense once you get there, it will not be a guarantee that you will go to the right places for the best skiing or be tuned into the avalanche conditions. We saw pretty quickly that the avalanche risk can be high in these parts, and that like all mountain areas, the Lyngen Alps have their own set of rules. Our friend Kurt is a UIAGM Guide, and together we discussed and researched each day’s plan. We found good snow and stayed out of trouble. But, we saw the opposite for some visitors. If you are interested in getting a guide, check in with the crew at the Magic Mountain Lodge as we did meet some local UIAGM Guides who would stop in for an evening beer.

Lyngen Alps Ice Climbing 

One of the reasons we were in Norway was to shoot ice climbing with Kurt Astner. Kurt is one of the best ice climbers in the world and a former Italian National Champion. His intention was to seek out new lines and new ice falls that he had heard about through friends. He did just that. If climbing some ice while on a ski trip is your thing, it is certainly possible in this area. I won’t pretend to offer advice, only to say there is a lot of nice, primarily on the east side of the fjords from the Lyngen Alps and easily accessed by car from the ferry at Olderdalen.

Interested to see the images we made, and a video of how we made them? Visit : PatitucciPhoto Norway Ice Climbing.

Kurt Astner on a new line outside Olderdalen, Norway

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DolomiteSport has been silent these last months. This is not due to inactivity, but the opposite – too much activity and too little time to post. The spring, summer and fall were full of trips, big days out and endless mountain sport fun. There is a long list of “To Post” topics for the slower months, which are now upon us.

And so it should start with a current event while we are in Tuscany for a week long cycling trip with good friend Alain Rumpf. The most notable event has been today’s ride from my favorite cycling town on the planet – Pienza. Here are a few photos from Alain and I’s day out, along with a brief route description and link to the ride on Strava for your GPS. This ride is special as it takes in some of the most classic Tuscan landscape, passes through numerous hilltop villages, includes fast, rolling terrain and finally a section of the famed Strade Bianche to Montalcino, the very piece used in the 2010 Giro d’Italia.

Roadside attraction just outside Pienza

Calorie stop

I know there are many passionate cyclists from all over following our going’s on – this one is for you. If you have not been to Tuscany with your bike, you really need to make some changes to that sad fact, it simply gets no better.

Pienza is arguably Italy’s most idyllic hilltop town. It is tiny, easy to drive through, park and enjoy the views to the famed Val d’Orcia which surrounds the village. There are numerous restaurants specializing in Tuscan cuisine and wine. Life is good, very, very good. We have been to Pienza for cycling four times now and always stay in the Piccolo Hotel La Valle. The owners are kind, the hotel spotless, rooms bright & fun and the breakfast abundant.

Decisions...

What makes the road riding in Tuscany so good? The region around Siena maintains the asphalt roads to keep them silky smooth, there are also the famed Strade Bianche, or white roads, the dirt roads of the epic L’Eroica, and there is nearly no traffic. What traffic there is tends to be very bicycle friendly. On a 100+km ride it is possible that you will see 5 cars, 2 of which might give you a wave. But then there is Tuscany itself – the magic feeling that makes it so unique, the immediate feeling of, “I want to live like this”, and the stunning beauty of a landscape sculpted by man into something so pleasant to view as one pedals through its vineyards, olive orchards and wheat fields. And of course the food; a Fiorentina, Brunello, Cinghiale, Olive Oil, Panforte, and the Pecorino cheese. Heaven.

This loop : Pienza – Asciano – Montalcino – Pienza can be viewed at Strava where it may also be downloaded for your GPS.

Mandatory visit to the Monte Oliveto Monastery outside Asciano

Rolling Tuscan terrain

Alain on the Strade Bianche

The last climb to Pienza

Arriving to Pienza at sunset after a day on the bike

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The Haute Route's final descent, below the north wall of the Matterhorn straight to Zermatt.

The Haute Route Ski Tour

Probably the most famous ski tour in the world and, for good reason, likely in number one position on most backcountry skiers must hit lists. We have done the Chamonix to Zermatt Haute Route twice and by both versions, the classic via Chanrion and the Verbier/Lac des Dix variation. Being the only true point to point tour on the list, the Haute Route demands that you stick to an agenda – a static tour. It is a complicated route requiring every skill in a skiers toolbox; steep skiing, fitness, navigation, glacier travel, and mountaineering.

Switzerland’s Berner Oberland Ski Tour

Like all the tours on the list with the exception of the Haute Route, the Berner can be done however a skier chooses. In where you please, out where you please – a dynamic tour. Typically, most parties go into the Bernese Alps from Grindelwald, at the Jungfraujoch so as to start high. Once within the massive region, there are numerous huts and countless ski lines, all of which are accessible from an initial descent to the Konkordiaplatz. There are also several 4000 meter peaks to climb, though not completely by ski. One disadvantage (some may see this as an advantage) of the region is the vast nature, as such there is potential for long slogs skinning up low angle glaciers. Also, in poor weather the options are more limited for travel. Exiting the area is typically done via the Lötschental or south towards Riederalp where buses and trains take you back around to the Grindelwald starting point.

The Ortler Ski Tour, Italy

The Ortler itself is a major Italian peak straddling the Swiss Italian border. But the ski tour is more in the mountain group east of the Ortler. Accessed via Solda (the Italian Solda!), Santa Caterina or the Val Martello, the Ortler is another dynamic tour without a strict agenda. Visitors can research what they want to ski, have a tick list, then as conditions permit start to move around and ski the favored lines and peaks. Classics include the Cevedale, the Punta San Matteo and the magnificent Gran Zebru, or Königspitze in German. One issue with the Ortler is the requirement to exit where you started, this or a very complicated process of getting back.

The Silvretta Group, Austria

Beginning in Ischgl, Austria, on the north end of the Silvretta Group, this ski tour sits on the Swiss Austrian border and can either be done as a point to point, or a dynamic tour with multiple nights in the same huts. Arguably the nicest hut on any ski tour in Europe is on this tour, the Jamtal Hut; complete with wi-fi, climbing gym and luxurious private rooms. The tour is typically started in Ischgl with a tram ascent before a short tour to the first hut, the Heidelberger. From here it is possible to move through the range east to west, essentially making a big circle connecting huts and ending just up valley from Ischgl at the village Galtur.

The Piz Bernina Group, Switzerland

As much a mountaineering experience as ski tour, the Bernina Tour is very much a dynamic agenda. This is big, alpine, glaciated terrain that requires absolute knowledge of much more than skiing. The starting point is almost certainly the Diavolezza Cable Car which takes you to one of Europe’s most impressive “Huts”. The Diavolezza Hut is really more of a hotel and fine restaurant complete with arguably the best view in all the Alps. The tour usually begins with an ascent of the Piz Palu before heading to any number of options which allow for a bouncing around the Bernina Group. Climb the Bernina itself, the easternmost 4000 meter peak in the Alps, or head south into Italy before crossing back to the Swiss side to Sils Maria or the Coaz Hut.

Choosing the European Alps Ski Tour : The Criteria

For ranking, I considered the following factors: the views, the huts, the skiing, can you escape, logistics and the overall experience. Details to rank are below. My choice for best of category sets the standard, then the others are compared to the best. A 5 is the highest, 1 the lowest.

The "yard" as seen from the Ortler's Rifugio Branca, 5 star terrain

The Views: This one is simple, how dramatic is the landscape you are in. Will you be blown away by the views and is it a completely unique experience because of this.

The Huts: Undoubtedly all the huts are going to impress an American visitor and be a big part of the overall feel – but truly, some are a lot better than others. Food is a big factor, remote alpine huts get their food flown in and as such it is not so fresh. Others, closer to villages get fresh food daily and the quality can be much higher. Some huts even offer private rooms and showers, others only dorm style rooms and no showers.

The skiing in the Alps can be big and intimidating. Berner Oberland.

The Skiing: This one was tricky as all have great ski terrain. But, the nature of the tours can affect how you get to ski, or how easily accessible it is based on the tour itself. For instance, the Haute Route requires you get from point A to point B. You don’t always have the time to get to ski what you want vs. what you have to ski to get to where you need to be. This compared to tours like the Ortler where you wake up and base your objective on the conditions, the crowds and your energy.

The Escape: Can you get away? Can you get some terrain to yourself? Or, are you going to be in a procession in a skin track trench followed by a carved up descent. There is always the possibility of escape, but how friendly is the terrain to allow this and how much time will you have to do so.

The Logistics: This is one of the big ones for a visiting American skier. Having to rely on huts, knowing how to get in and out of areas, glaciers, weather, and knowing how and where to find the escapes – make for logistical issues, some more than others. Researching information about these ski tours is overwhelming if you are a first time visitor. Meanwhile, the huts are a blessing and a curse in that they complicate matters by having to decide when you’ll arrive, booking, and making them all work out with conditions. You must reserve space at huts. The weather can change your plans and then affect your entire agenda, this is what is looked at for the rating. How easy is it to “deal” with the tour’s logistics.

The Haute Route

The Overall Experience: Every one of these tours is going to be a great experience, but again, the standard I have set is according to which is potentially most rewarding. Countless factors weigh in to influence the overall; the weather, the snow, the group, the season, etc… and of course all the subjective factors as well.

Using a Mountain Guide

The decision to use a mountain guide to do these tours is highly recommended. Immediately the logistics issue is solved, the ability to escape a possibility, and the overall experience will probably be much better. Also, if the weather is bad, instead of sitting it out inside, a guide will likely have an entertaining backup plan. With regards to a guide, I have heard people say, “How hard can it be, get in the trench and go”. This might be true if the weather is splitter and you are there high season (April), but the second the sky closes, it whites out and you are on a glacier, the trip goes to hell quite quickly. The Alps are not to be taken lightly, they may be crowded, but they are not tame – it is serious terrain. See guides list, bottom.

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The Alps Ski Tours Compared

Conclusion

So what does this mean? The Haute Route sucks? Not at all, it means the Haute Route has the potential for the biggest experience and best views, it is just difficult to pull off without some logistical help. And the Berner Oberland is the best? Maybe, for me… I had great conditions each time I was there and it is consistent across the board. If I had to choose, the best ski tour is undoubtedly the Ortler. The Haute Route is something every skier must do, the Berner is simply an amazing place with great skiing, the Silvretta a close second to the Ortler in every way, and the Bernina a place for ski mountaineering.

Point being…. they are all great. But if you are going to choose just one, then I hope this method helps you determine which tour is best for what you are after.

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American UIAGM Guides Specializing in European Ski Touring

These are all friends and guides we know to be fully knowledgeable about Alp ski tours. I asked them about the list to see which tour they would comment on.

Cosley Houston Mountain Guides : Our favorite? You’re asking us to walk into a French chocolatière and pick out the single best morsel. Well, we have to give very high marks to the Ortler. Perhaps it the showers, or the full bar, or the great food, the cappuccinos, the hut keepers, or the great terrain where most every day takes in a high summit.

Francis Kelsey : The Haute Route. It’s the oldest and most well known tour. Even though the shortest way between two points is a straight line, I prefer a few detours along the way and like to mix things up a bit. Some of the best skiing I have done has been on this tour. With any tour or trip into the mountains, timing and knowledge play crucial roles on how the trip unfolds and also on how interesting (ie fun) it turns out. There are very few tours that will bring such incredible diversity and feeling of accomplishment as the Haute Route. This route brings every mountain skill set into play, nearly every time.

And finally, how appropriate is it to rally two of the world’s alpine meccas via skis. That’s just plain uber cool.

Howie Schwartz : Sierra Mountain Guides : Our favorite is the Ortler, even though it is so trendy now, but we like to start in Solda with an amazing off-piste day at the resort. Then the intensity ramps up to classic ski mountaineering and steep descents. We are skiers and this is truly a skiers circuit that maximizes the quantity and quality of skiing. Certainly less high and wild than some of the other more classic tours but, as you know, the food and espresso are in another league in Italia. I think for Americans that already get their wilderness experiences closer to home, the Ortler is a very unique and special ski destination.

Tim Connelly : The Ortler Tour: Some of my favorite skiing days have been had in that great playground standing opposite the Rifugio Branca. The ins and outs of Cima Giacomo and  P.Matteo and the longer journeys through Palon de la Mare on to P. Taviela, just such good times. Of course skiing from the summit of Il Gran Zebru will have a special place in my heart; grinning still at the memory

The Haute route (via Verbier): While touted as the over used/ busy trade route of the alps I have had some spectacular days on this route that will keep me raving about it. Isolated, steep lines from Rosablanche and around Arolla remind me of my La Grave haunts and full on high mountain adventures around the Pigne de Arolla have tried to kick my butt — love it! I’ll be back.

Margaret Wheeler : ProGuiding

Mike Bromberg : Mountain Pro : It’s hard to pick a favorite when each tour has it’s own unique character, but the one thing I can be definitive about, is that the Ortler crushes the competition when it comes to Coffee quality. I generally prefer a circuit with layover days planned at several huts as opposed to point to point traverses in order to really maximize the ski potential and achieve a greater sense of place in a specific area. Keep your style in mind (fast & light or freerider?) and remember that shared expectations will end up being crucial to the success of any mountain experience.

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My favorite ride in all the world, the Dolomite's Passo delle Erbe. Me, my iPhone and Alain Rumpf.

Brought to you by the same people who introduced the BAM (Burro di Arachidi e Marmalada) Sandwich to Italy through a PB&J photo contest comes an all new event for cyclists. We want to see your absolute favorite road ride in one photo and read about it in 140 characters or less (Twitter style).

Something tells me that you are much like me. Roadies the world over have their favorite little scenes that only other roadies will “get”.  Hands on the hoods, you dance on your pedals, smoothly shifting your bodyweight through the curves, and as you look ahead you think, “Damn, this is amazing, I wish I could share this with everyone”. Am I right? This opportunity makes a good excuse to stop, pull out that smartphone and snap a photo. If you don’t have a smartphone it makes a good excuse to either get one or carry the point and shoot with you for that special moment. If nothing else, you get to go do your favorite ride. Win win.

The rules:

1. One photo, no DSLRs allowed, smart phone or poor quality point and shoots only, it’s all about the feel. Image preparation or filters are allowed and even encouraged. Be creative.

2. The photo must be made from the cockpit, while riding, truly the viewer’s perspective. Don’t blame me if you fall off.

3. 140 character caption as to why it is your favorite, what you feel in your favorite place, or anything else that you think is critical for us to know.

4. Image Deadline is June 13 – this gives all those in California & Colorado time to have your roads melt out from meters and meters of snow.

Submit the photo to me via email: dan@dolomitesport.com I will post all photos to one page for everyone to vote.

Two categories:

Most Beautiful Road (MBR) : Grand Prize : Rudy Project Genetyk Sunglasses

Most Creative Scene (MCS) : Grand Prize : Rudy Project Genetyk Sunglasses

MBR is straightforward, make us want to be there. MCS is about having some fun with the photo, the scenery or whatever happens to be going on.

Thanks for playing, we look forward to seeing some great rides for the must visit list.

Many thanks to Rudy Project who is always incredibly supportive of all the things, no matter how silly, we do.

Getting there is easily done by flying into Palermo via RyanAir, renting a car and driving 90, surprisingly relaxing, minutes to the village of San Vito lo Capo on the northwest tip of the island. In my mind, Sicily was going to be chaos and a terrifying automobile experience. In fact, it was the opposite. Chaos came later at the produce stand. In the village proper of San Vito, we rented a nice apartment in late March for four people/one week, €250. Hard to beat. Much of the climbing is done within a 10 minute drive from the seaside resort village, a car is convenient although it is possible to walk to some of the more popular crags.

There is a Climbing Guide especially for Sicily and the San Vito info seemed to be pretty much spot on. But, I don’t remember seeing it, or any climbing gear, available in San Vito. Come well stocked. More recently developed areas have topos hanging at the crag, and as is typical of climbers everywhere, word spread quickly about what was worthy of visiting. Seems much of the development has been done by visiting German & Austrian climbers, the same nations providing the vast majority of visitors.

The rock is limestone and comes in all varieties, from tufa stuffed caves, to pocketed walls, slabs, stalactites, and even cracks. Some of the limestone is of such high quality and so compact, it almost appears as granite. Bolts & anchors, thanks to the Germans, are big, bomber and well placed. Overall, it is a place to climb hard and push yourself. And did I mention cappuccinos are still €1?

San Vito lo Capo and Monte Monaco

In the evening, hang at a local restaurant for freshly caught seafood. We discovered Ristorante Agora in the main part of the village and felt there was little reason to go anywhere else. Don’t miss the Insalata di Polipo, Branzino, house made pasta and then for desert, the Ricotta Mandorle. And you thought Italian food was the best…? The Sicilians really do take food to an even higher level.

Of course visiting later than April adds swimming in the clear Mediterranean to the list of to do’s. From many of the crags, this is an option in less than 5 minutes walk.

San Vito lo Capo Climbing Information & Beta

70 meter rope – 18 quickdraws

We were warned about lots of car break ins, we saw no evidence of such, but be warned.

Bring warm clothes for climbing in the caves or shade – it’s surprisingly cool near the water.

Apartments, B&B’s and Hotels are all readily available. Apartments offer the option of cooking, but then really, why would you want to do this?

Season seems to be March – mid June, then again September & October. The locals swore it wasn’t too hot in the summer, but the locals don’t climb.

Evi Gritsch at the Castle of Aragon

Pleasant seaside approach to the Bunker

Christof Ursch on something hard at the Castle of Aragon

Christof giving it all two thumbs up

The end of everyday includes this just before coiling your rope and heading to dinner