What is the Dolomite’s Sella?

An incredible amount of activity literally surrounds what is arguably the Dolomite’s true heart, the Sella Group. Rising like an island in a calm sea, the Sella is an enormous, 9 kilometer wide freestanding massif. With its tiered layers, towers, couloirs and mostly flat top, it has been nicknamed the “Wedding Cake”. Dropping away beneath it are four deep valleys; Val Gardena, Val Badia, Val di Fassa, and Valle di Livinalongo. The highpoint, Piz Boe is 3152 meters yet directly beneath it is the village of Arabba at 1605. Simple math reveals some serious relief. No matter how many times I stare at the Sella new features appear; towers, jagged ridges and straightline couloirs.

Sellaronda Mountain Bike Tour, descending Pordoi to Canazei

In the winter it is famous for its steep couloirs (Skiing in the Kingdom of Couloirs) while in the summer, it is a buzz with activity around it, for a network of roads and trails circumnavigate the massif, each plummeting into the three valley’s before rising again to passes before the next drop. Do one of its many loops and you’ll have an endless display of sublime beauty. And it is these loops around the Sella that attracts diverse athletes from around the world.

The Sellaronda is a venue. I have raced around it a number of times in the Maratona dles Dolomites, which circles it as the road race’s first segment. Also, the Sellaronda Ski Marathon does even more vertical on skis as it dramatically drops all the way into each surrounding valley. Coming in 2011 is a brutally difficult trail running race similar in torturous design as the famous ski race. Finally, there is the Sellaronda Hero Race , one of Europe’s most difficult races, which gives cross country mountain bikers an opportunity to suffer around the bulk of the massif. But for the visiting mountain biker, there is now opportunity to do the Sellaronda in its entirety using lifts for the climbs so as to spend a very full day of downhilling. Easy? Read on.

Alta Badia Sellaronda Start

In my opinion, the perfect start (if you do the more classic clockwise tour) for the Sellaronda is the Alta Badia and the village of La Villa. This is not so much for how it starts but for how it finishes (the last stretch into Corvara is bliss at day’s end, read on). That said, being on top of the Piz La Ila after first tram is a great place to spend your morning with the sunrise illuminating the towering Sassongher in stunning light. From Piz La Ila, rolling hills lead to Piz Sorega before some perfect single track twists through lush forests down to the Campolongo Pass, and here begins the long drop to Arabba.

Sellaronda Mountain Bike Tour, entering the forest above Corvara

Arabba to Passo Pordoi

From Arabba the Porta Vescovo tram is ridden 800 meters up. Exit tram and spend some time staring at the Dolomite’s biggest mountain, the Marmolada sits unobstructed directly south of the tram station. One of the Dolomites few remaining glaciers still coats the north side of the mountain. Keep moving, you have a long way to go…

A loose, dirt road leads you down to the beginning of one of the longest sections of singletrack on the whole tour. Once on the singletrack, you’ll roll west until it intersects the Passo Pordoi road, here squishy mountain bikes with low saddles join their road bike brethren for about 1km until the top of the Pordoi.

Andreas, inside the tram, impressing the tourists, irritating the tram operator

Passo Pordoi to Canazei

Time for a valley switch and the descent to Canazei, this is possibly the best piece of singletrack on the tour. Stop midway for a lunch break at Hotel Lupo Bianco, a four star hotel with a unique menu loaded with specialty pastas and polenta. But don’t linger too long, again, you have a long way to go… Once in Canazei, head through the village to the bike path for the neighboring village of Campitello and the Col Rodella tram.

DolomiteBiking Guides Klaus and Andreas Irsara

Sella Pass to Selva Gardena

Exit the Col Rodella tram and drop towards the Sella Pass. Once roadside a singletrack trail leads through the forests where you can jump off trail and surf the perfectly smooth grassy slopes of the ski runs – descend 1000 meters to Selva Gardena (Wolkenstein).

Sellaronda Mountain Bike Tour, beginning the final descent. Passo Gardena to Alta Badia

Val Gardena to Corvara, Alta Badia

In Selva, the Dantercepies gondola is taken to the Passo Gardena before the final 600 meter drop back to the Val Badia. Again, the descent starts on flowing singletrack which ends at a small trail side waterfall on the north side of the valley. Here begins one of the most pleasant gently rolling trails in all of the Dolomites, a perfect leg stretching, brake cooling end to an unforgettable day. Bike paths lead all the way back to the starting point in La Villa.

Sellaronda Facts

Clockwise

Time : 5 hours – All day

Length : 58km

Total Vertical : 3400 meters

Total Climbing : 500 meters

Counterclockwise

Time : 6 hours – All day

Length : 53km

Total Vertical : 3000 meters

Total Climbing : 1150 meters

Languages : Three… Ladin, German, and yes, Italian, will be spoken throughout the tour.

Difficulty : Intermediate to Advanced – with good brakes and basic mountain biking skills, you’ll get around. Comfort on steep, loose terrain is a must.

Of course it is possible to do the mountain bike loop under your own power, without lifts. How long does this take? Klaus Fontana, winner of the 2010 race which is even longer with 4200 meters of climbing, did it in less than 5 hours. Do not consider this a benchmark.

Signs exist, but not for all trails

Now that you are sold, here is the important stuff. As of this writing, it is required to take a guide on this tour. Don’t think about trying it without or you won’t be getting on any lifts with your bike. This is to insure you stay on the mountain bike trails and not venture onto hiking paths. I can guarantee that without a guide you will not find the best singletrack anyway, so.. a guide it is. Plus, you’ll have a million questions about everything you are looking at. It is paradise, maximize what you do.

Note : Check your brakes, a guide friend said that modern disc brakes, brand new, are good for about four Sellarondas – this pretty much says it all. Corvara, Canazei and Selva all have great bike shops in case you need service.

Inside the Campitello tram station, about to begin another long "climb"

Dolomite Mountain Bike Guiding Services

Our closest friends are the guys at DolomiteBiking.com – this is a local group of certified mountain bike guides all from the region and based in the Alta Badia. They are responsible for us having the great experience seen in these photos.

The final descent to Corvara in Alta Badia, like I said... Bliss

The entire ridge traverse, from the right to left and back to the where the photo was made before the last descent to the Val San Nicolo (below) >click to enlarge

Val di Fassa’s Val San Nicolo Ridge Traverse

After twelve years together, living, working and playing in the mountains – Janine and I may well have just discovered our perfect day. One of the very best of about 4000 days together in the mountains. Janine found it, right there on the Val di Fassa map; a feature, some trails, a little creative route planning and then an announcement that we’ll be doing a “big ridge traverse” this week. Ok.

First up, I need to make a disclaimer if this is to be used as a route planner. This trail is NOT for everyone, it is far from easy, includes exposed climbing sections, requires comfort in high places, and a bit of route finding. Nevertheless, it is all there and certainly not an epic unless you choose to make it so. We saw just two other people on the trail, I asked them in Italian if they too thought it was amazing, the answer, “Ja, aber nicht so einfach”. Okay, they’re weren’t Italians and they’re weren’t enjoying it quite as much as us, but you might. If the following sounds good to you, and you are in the Dolomites, do not miss this experience.

Highlights: Via Ferrate, exposure, no crowds, abundant World War 1 history, tunneling, caving, scrambling, countless summits, two huts, and quite possibly the best views of any location in the Dolomites (if only the afternoon had been clear!!).

Janine in the early morning headed to the Zeni Bivouac and the start of the Via Ferrata F. Gadotti

Via Ferrata F. Gadotti and the Alta Via B. Federspiel

What Janine discovered on the map was the Alta Via B. Federspiel starting from the Val San Nicolo above the Val di Fassa just outside Pozza di Fassa. The feature is a massive circular ridge system with a trail tracing its crest, alternating between Via Ferrata and “advanced” hiking route. But she added to the trail, starting on the Cima Dodici (Sas da le Duodesh) on the Via Ferrata F. Gadotti above the Zeni Bivouac. From the summit, trails and more ferrate link to the Forcella la Costela and the start of the Alta Via B. Federspiel. From here, one thing is immediately obvious. It is going to be a long day. And this was just the first part, for this ridge system terminates at the Rifugio Passo delle Selle. But the ridge continues, becoming the Sentiero Atti Bepi Zac which mostly follows a WWI trench and tunnel system all the way to the Costabela.

This section is certainly the most raw for WWI history, for much still remains from the war 95 years ago. It is not prettied or tidied up, it is a mess of barbed wire, artillery placements, tunnels, living quarters and stone barriers. We found bomb shrapnel, pieces of old leather boots, and oddly, very oddly – many bone fragments of unknown origin. We have never seen bone fragments elsewhere, why here? While traversing this section the pace will certainly slow to have a morbid look at human history. The Austrian and Italians had it out on this high and lonely ridge. The Austrian tunnels have gun turrets facing south, the Italian versions with windows pointing north. Trenches are still in place right on the crest and dotted with caves built as sleeping quarters – it is this very system of trenches and exposed ledges that the trails follows.

Dan; How big is the Zeni Bivouac? This small...

From the Costabela the trail plummets from the crest down deep into the cirque at the end of the Val San Nicolo. Here we found another trail, not on the map, that connected us to the parallel ridge starting at the Pas de San Nicolo where a well placed hut awaits. This is the beginning of an all new ridge and the second, and return, section of the traverse. From the Rifugio Pas de San Nicolo the remainder of trail is much more well traveled and less rugged. While the entire first section is straight up & straight down in rocky terrain, this section is singletrack through grasses and wildflowers traversing up and down until it ends at the ski station Col de Valvagin. From here, we took the service road 800 meters down to the valley below where we had left the car at the Malga al Crocifisso.

We did the entire trail in one day, beginning at 6am, we returned to the car at 8pm. Stops were made for photos/views and a sizeable lunch of pasta (of course). The trail is slow going, especially due to the Via Ferrate and rocky terrain in the first part. We thought to run much of it but the running really only comes towards the end.

As described, the tour could be done in many ways, even using the huts for overnighting. Or, the first big peak climb and Via Ferrata could be skipped. All names are from the Tabacco Map 06 Val di Fassa. It is very difficult to say how long this trail is with how intricate the route is, we estimate 26-28 kilometers and about 3800 total meters of climbing. An interesting note is that the tour begins on Dolomite rock, turns to a long section of Gneiss (complete with a completely different feel), and then turns back to Dolomite.

What allows this trail to have such magnificent views is its position. The ridgeline is part of what separates the southern Dolomites from the northern. Therefore, when on top of the crest nearly everything may be seen. I have never seen one area where so much is visible; from the Sas dla Crusc, Tofana, Sassolungo, Catinaccio, Odla to the Pale di San Martino, Civetta and even the Agner. It is the perfect location from which to see the Dolomites.

Janine at the start of the Via Ferrata F. Gadotti

From the summit of the Cima Dodici looking into the Val di Fassa, the Cattinacio and Pozza

The second peak of the day, the Sas Aut

Via Ferrata F. Gadotti with the approach trail far below

Janine descending in caves from the summit of the Sas Aut

Long, steep descent through a chasm from the Sas Aut

Finally, the ridge traverse begins here, at the Forcella de la Costela. Far in the distance, at the top left is the Rifugio Passo delle Selle and the end of this section, just the beginning

Endless up and down on the ridgeline in this terrain getting to the first hut

Before the Rifugio delle Selle is the beginning of the War area with ledges that served as the frontlines

The majority of the day is spent right on the crest

War ledges

Dan having a pasta at Rifugio Passo delle Selle

Immediately after leaving the hut is a long climb and the real War trail through tunnels and trenches for about 3 kilometers

Barbed wire and religion

The trail leads through tunnels that were the network for moving around without being exposed to gunfire

Windows can be seen in the cliff faces that were gun placements

Finally some terrain for running, the original goal for the day, comes after the Rifugio Passo San Nicolo

Janine on the last section of ridge before the big descent back to the Val San Nicolo. The first ridge's earlier sections can be seen in the background

The final section on perfect running terrain. The ski station, the end of the ridge, can be seen in the distance

Dan, end of the day, end of the ridge - the final meters to the last summit

As we descended, our first climb came into view, the beginning of our giant circle. The bright orange Zeni Bivouac can be seen in the green below the walls

In the valley, the final obstacle to the car

Mountain biking beneath the Geisler Group

Dolomites Mountain Biking

Italy’s Val Gardena, or Gröden in German, is one of Italy’s most famous ski destinations. But it is certainly not just for skiing, and it is only Italy by location – for this is a special valley where the look & feel is much closer to its more Germanic northern neighbors. Here, the Dolomiti are the Dolomiten – you will see and hear more German and the local Ladin than Italian, yet the food and overall flavor is distinctly that of Italy – it is the best of all worlds. Amongst it all, the Val Gardena is rapidly becoming a premier destination for mountain biking.

Seems the valley’s Tourism Offices, recognizing the value that mountain bike tourism brings, have started making the region very friendly to knobby tire athletes. An abundance of trails, mountain huts, ski lifts for those not wanting to ride so much uphill, and some of the most stunning scenery in the entire Dolomites makes the area truly worthy of a visit. And so we have started to explore and can now confirm, superb.

Where to Go in Val Gardena?

Between the villages of Selva and Ortisei (Wolkenstein and St. Ulrich) are countless hotels, and this is a great place to basecamp. Lifts run from this end of the valley up to Seceda, Alpe di Siusi and Col Reiser – all key access points for trails. For a quiet, car free location, look into staying up on the Alpe di Siusi (Seiseralm) itself.

When to Go to Val Gardena?

June – early October, although June might still be wet and snowy depending on the spring, and August could be so full of tourists you will be better off leaving your bike in the valley and walking with everyone else. August, in my opinion, is not the month to see the Dolomites if a peaceful mountain experience is desired.

Biking and Hiking in the Val Gardena

Time to be honest… the mountain biking in the Dolomites is great, but with the massive trail system, a plethora of options, and loads of dirt roads thrown into the mix, the first time visitor is going to be overwhelmed and likely thinking, “Hey, I saw all these great photos of beautiful trails, but where, and which, are they?” We have had the good fortune of being shown by locals the best trails to ride, and so for the visitor, I would suggest doing the same – getting a mountain bike guide. It will save time and insure the best experience, not to mention prevent excessive bike carrying and pushing.

Alpe di Siusi and sunset on the Sassolungo

This is not the website for detailed route descriptions and GPS coordinates. Our goal is to inspire a visit to the area and provide some services information for the next step. But, as mentioned above, key riding areas for the Val Gardena are:

Alpe di Siusi (Seiseralm) including the traverse around to the Sella Pass via the Citta di Sassi (dirt roads). The entire high plateau provides moderate and brilliant mountain biking tours with incredible views to the Sassolungo (Langkofel). Monte Pana is a good starting point.

Col Raiser – the entire upper plateau around the Rifugio Firenze (Regensburger Hut). Either ride up or take the gondola from near Selva (Wolkenstein).

Seceda – From Ortisei (St. Ulrich), take the Seceda gondola only to the mid-station, exit and ride dirt roads and trails to the Rifugio Rasciesa (Raschotz Hut) then the breathtaking path to Rifugio Brogles (Brogles Hut).

Mountain biking above Col Reiser in the Val Gardena

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WARNING: This is a very popular hiking destination as well and the trails need to be shared. There is a proposal to restrict mountain bikes to dirt roads only within the Dolomites – we don’t want to lose our trail access. Ride with respect.

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Hiking & Peak Bagging in the Dolomites Val Gardena

Mountain biking can be limiting in what it allows you access to in the very rugged, complicated Dolomites. One of our favorite things to do to take advantage of all the un-rideable terrain is to pedal in to a hut, lock the bikes, swap cycling for running shoes, and head up the big peaks. A few key ones to put on the list are the Montijela (via Selva and Rifugio Firenze), the Sasso Piatto (via Alpe di Siusi) for its position & endless views and of course the gem, the Sas Rigais’ Via Ferrata – a big, committing undertaking (Guide recommended- see below).

Recommended Val Gardena / Gröden Services

Mountain Biking Guides : DolomiteBiking.com – our closest friends, the very one’s who showed us around. Locals know best.

Tour Operator Service : Holimites.com - specializing in active, mountain sport visits to the Dolomites

Mountain Guides : Alberto De Giuli |  Marcello Cominetti |  Francesco Tremolada take your pick, all superb

Tourism Office : Val Gardena Tourism

Bike Shop for Info & Rentals : Dolomiti Adventures

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Val Gardena Cycling Events

The Sellaronda Hero is probably the highlight for mountain biking. An absolutely brutal course of 82km with 4200 meters of climbing – touted as Europe’s hardest mountain bike race.

The Sellaronda Bike Day: while not just for mountain bikers, but all cyclists, this is a special day each summer where the Dolomites roads are closed to cars throughout the famous Sellaronda loop. Bikes only = paradise. 16,000 cyclists make their way to the region for this day.

The Brogles Hut

Mountain biking above Col Reiser in the Val Gardena

Have you been to Val Gardena? We would love to hear your experience – please use the Comments section on this post to share your thoughts – thanks.

Walking through WWI trenches, Monte Lagazuoi

The bottom entrance to the Lagazuoi Gallery

A Historical Walk to Dinner through the Lagazuoi Tunnels

Part of the culture of life in the Italian Dolomites is to share a dinner with friends in one of the many mountain huts (rifugi) – for us, this is habit. Sometimes we hike, other times it’s a ski approach, maybe a trail run, or even a mountain bike ride. But last night was something unique, we arrived to the Rifugio Lagazuoi via a pitch black tunnel from WWI that ascends nearly 400 meters to the top of Monte Lagazuoi.

Our friend Carolyn is doing the Alta Via 1 and called to invite us for dinner at the hut. It was the perfect summer evening to head up and see her as well as the hut’s owner and friend Guido Pompanin. Dinner was set for 6:45 – we arrived at the trailhead at 6 and immediately took note of the trail sign indicating a two hour walk to the hut. “Merda, RUN!”

Inside the Gallery

A couple hundred meters above the parking area the trail splits; options include a long hike around the peak to it’s backside and up to the summit hut, or a tunnel going straight up within the mountain itself. The tunnel is a kind of museum as it is a perfectly preserved piece of war history. Built over a period of many months by the Italian army during WWI, the tunnel was meant to access the top and ultimately blow up the strategically located Austrian artillery placement. The monumental effort of boring through a mountain simply to then blow it up paid off and the Austrians lost there stronghold. Today, where men once lived in misery and fear, iPhone wielding tourists now strut about bound for the hut and a pasta, I was no exception.

Janine, aka Little Red Riding Hood, exiting the Gallery on top

We opted for the tunnel as it is faster and more direct and we had done it many times before – but never in a rush to make dinner. Up we went, each step inside the inky darkness gaining us a half meter. The lights from our headlamps passed over the many interior features; the soldiers living quarters, a water cistern, and many portholes in the tower’s side for dumping the stone and debris from the tunnel. Finally, we arrived at the top, exited the tunnel and like the Italian army in WWI, found not a soul about. But while the Austrian army made a rapid departure after catching wind of the impending arrival of the Italians and a potential large explosion, today’s summit inhabitants were gathered inside the Rifugio enjoying an aperitif.

After the Gallery there is an easy walk to the summit

Our own dash for the hut ended with the front door opening and Carolyn stepping out to greet us – promptly at 6:45. From the dank tunnel we suddenly found ourselves in a room full of cheer. Guido handed us towels for washing up, drinks arrived, and many friends gathered about. A fun feast was next, storytelling and a beautiful sunset making silhouettes of distant Dolomite towers. The evening became late, people wandered off to bed, we said good night, put our headlamps on and headed back to the tunnels.

The final steps to the top and the Lagazuoi Hut

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Travel in Italy’s Dolomites

A visit to the Heart of the Dolomites should certainly include a day or two exploring the Lagazuoi and Cinque Torri area. This is some of the most rugged and scenic terrain in all of the Dolomites and is accessed from any of the surrounding valley’s; Cortina d’Ampezzo (Passo Falzarego from the east), Alta Badia (Passo Valparola) or Arraba (Passo Falzarego from the west).

Rifugio Lagazuoi is accessed by trail on foot, via the tunnel described above, or by cable car (open seasonally). The common summer itinerary is cable car up, hike around the summit, lunch & nap on the Rifugio Lagazuoi’s famous deck with unrivaled views of the Dolomites, then a descent of the WWI tunnel. Headlamp required, helmet recommended.

Visit Rifugio Lagazuoi for complete information, pricing, and booking.

Also, the hut keeper, Guido, is a great photographer and thanks to the situation of the hut, gets incredible weather photos. Follow the Hut’s Rifugio Lagazuoi Facebook Page or on Twitter @rifugiolagazuoi

Guido Pompanin & Dan Patitucci inside the Rifugio Lagazuoi

Paklenica National Park's Anica Kuk, 350 meters of perfect rock

Visiting Croatia?

Stable weather, friendly locals, good food, inexpensive, easy access, Mediterranean swimming, flawless limestone – lots of bolts, abundant routes, huts… this is Croatia’s Paklenica National Park. A little piece of heaven. Yet while most European climbing destinations are somewhat packed, Paklenica is like a step into the past, mellow and relaxed. Imagine taking part in the Italian film Il Postino but with climbing as the subject matter.

Swimming in Paklenica's many pools

Accessed from the sleepy seaside town of Starigrad, Paklenica is an oasis in a somewhat dry and inhospitable landscape. Here temperatures soar into the 30′s (90′s) creating more desire to soak in the Adriatic than to go climbing. In fact climbing seems an almost unlikely activity upon arriving. But, enter the park, just a few kilometers from Starigrad, and the entire scene undergoes a rapid change thanks to a deep canyon, lush forest and flowing small river. Paradise found. On our first morning we weren’t so sure about Paklenica, by evening, we were in love.

Starigrad is not the postcard seaside village of Croatia, there is no colorful bay, no fishing boats in a small harbor and no cute, quant little village. It is touristy but in an old school, traditional, authentic village kind of way. It is not expensive, camping is about €6/person, hotels top out at about €45/person, restaurant prices are reminiscent of Europe 10 years back. But here too you can stroll town with a gelato, get seafood fresh from the fishing boats, sit in a bar with other climbers and, best of all, easily pedal your bike to the crag where a small store provides gelato and drinks just 3 minutes from the start of the climbing walls.

Topping out on Anica Kuk

Paklenica National Park itself is all about big, limestone walls, deep canyons, hikes to 1800 meter peaks from sea level, and a lush forest with a hut system. The star attraction being Anica Kuk, a 350 meter wall of impeccable limestone with over 100 multi pitch routes of all grades. As one enters the park, the canyon narrows and immediately both sides form perfect climbing walls with countless routes from 5a to 8a. For the beginner-intermediate climber, it is paradise as there is an abundance of routes from 5a-6b, all well bolted with bomber anchors. It is very user friendly.

Starigrad Lodging

As you enter town it will become immediately obvious that lodging will not be a problem. There are many campgrounds, hotels and private rooms in homes (look for the word Sobe in Croatian). The campgrounds are very user friendly with, quite possibly, the cleanest bathrooms I have seen. We stayed at the seaside campground on the south end of town, Paklenica Camping, our car was a 4 second walk from swimming in the Adriatic, there is a bar and Bancomat in camp and the staff is super friendly and informative.

We also checked into the Hotel Vicko Villa for a few nights; 4 star, free Wi-Fi, great breakfast, super friendly, fantastic seaside position. €45/person.

Getting Around Starigrad and Paklenica

A bike is the absolute ideal form of transportation. We parked our car and never touched it for a week. From the center of Starigrad to the climbing is only 15 minutes on the bike, slightly uphill, but not steep. In the evening, it is a refreshing, fantastic end to the day as you coast into town and the gelato stand. At the road’s end in the Park there is a bike storage area.

Paklenica National Park Logistics & Climbing Info

> There is one primary entrance to the Park on the south end of Starigrad. Each day you must pay to enter, it is 40 Kuna per person (€5.50). Be sure to ask about multiple day passes.

> There is a small store within the park, 5 minutes from the parking and right at the beginning of the climbing area. A well with drinking water is found on the trailside about 10 minutes uphill from the main climbing area.

Big gear, or little person?

> Near the Park entrance from the main road is a climbing shop with all the necessities.

> Key Climbing Website for organizing a trip, visiting and climbing in Paklenica is Climb Croatia. There is a good Climbing Guidebook readily available throughout Starigrad, recommended.

> Climbing: The climbing is sport, with big, new bolts. Anchors are single massive rings or chains. For the easiest classic route on Anica Kuk, the 5c Mosoraski,some crack gear may be appreciated depending on your level and comfort running it out. A 60 meter rope is pretty much mandatory. Climbing style is classic limestone; pockets, tufa, greasy if a popular route, but always well equipped and on perfect rock. Some routes have small tags with name & grade at the bottom, but most do not. A guidebook is helpful.

> Language: Many locals speak English, but perfect German and Italian are also spoken.

What else to do in Starigrad?

Exploring Starigrad's coastline

> Cycling: Cruise the coastline north and check out some of the the sleepy little villages. Croatian coastal roads are an ideal combination of perfect asphalt, stunning scenery and no cars. A trail system is being developed that parallels the coastline on the edge of the park, we didn’t do it, but info is available at the tourist office.

> Hiking: Get an early start and hike up to the highest peaks. Sea level to 1760 meters, you’ll cross numerous zones en route to some great views. The Paklenica Hut, about 2 hours from the parking lot, offers lodging. 20 minutes below is also a small hut providing food and drink during the day. And 10 minutes further above is the small, incredibly friendly Ivancev Dom, also offering lodging.

> Take an evening trip to Zadar (45 minutes in car) and stroll the ancient town. Do not miss the seaside walk along the city walls where you will find a series of man made blow holes in the stone that create music based on the waves frequency as they hit the wall.

> Stop at a roadside fruit & veggie stand and stock up on tomatoes (consistently the best) and especially the figs – the sweetest, most flavorful we have ever had.

The Paklenica Hut

Ivancev Dom, Paklenica National Park

When to visit Paklenica?

I had mixed reports on this one (some said all year, others the spring and fall) but basically decided: April – early July then again September & October. We went in mid June and the temps were certainly high in town, but okay for climbing in the shade. The mid-day descent off Anica Kuk was something I wouldn’t be in a hurry to repeat. Thankfully, the many pools in the canyon’s river provide perfect swimming. And of course having a bath-like Mediterranean is quite wonderful.

Summary

Croatia is a special place, while very European, it is a bit of a step into something more gentle, less hectic. Everything is there as in Europe, but so too something from the past that gives it a unique feeling. It is a place one can spend a great deal of time and not feel like life is rushing by.

And the climbing… it is not so common that I have said, “That was one of the best routes I have ever done.” but in Paklenica… over and over again throughout the day.

As we only scratched the surface of things to do, in addition to the well written Lonely Planet Croatia guidebook, these websites are helpful:

Paklenica National Park |  Croatia Travel |  Find Croatia

Finally, Dubrovnik is a few hours south and undoubtedly one of Europe’s greatest destinations, it is well worth 2-3 days all on it’s own. Do not miss it.

Paklenica local

The Passo Pordoi

In 2007 I did my first Maratona dles Dolomites. It was, without a doubt, one of the most rewarding days I have ever had in a competition. To stand on a Granfondo starting line with over 8000 other cyclists, at sunrise in one of the world’s most spectacular settings, with a massive day of riding ahead – and to feel the energy – is pure bliss.

Before the race I had been lucky enough to spend the six weeks leading up to the big day training in the very region – so, I was at a locals advantage of knowing the course inside and out. I had even ridden the course two times before race day. But still, I hadn’t raced it, I hadn’t pushed myself that hard yet, and I hadn’t done it with thousands of other cyclists around me.

A few friends had offered some advice, most of which I took, but one key piece I failed to act on cost me a top 100 finish. So, with this in mind, and with the Maratona fast approaching, I thought to share my thoughts on the event in the hopes that you will take something away of value. Keep in mind that after the race I had fallen so in love with the Dolomites and its rich cycling culture that I decided to call it home, I have been riding the same roads ever since 2007.

This advice is for those planning to push themselves as if it really were a race (and you’ll see, it is). For those looking to just survive, you get to simply enjoy the day, but you too must read on.

Stay in Front : This is basically impossible unless you have a starting number in the first 1000. But do your best to get by as many people as possible by the top of the second pass, the Pordoi. After the Pordoi it gets pretty tough although it does thin out. However, unless you have super climbing endurance, don’t blow up on the Sellaronda (the first loop and first 5 passes) as the Giau awaits – and it is the killer climb.

Careful on the Descents : Italians descend much closer together than Americans, it is pretty unnerving to have your leg hit someone’s handlebars at 75km/hr. Italians, being a vocal bunch, will be sure to let you know if you are screwing up. For the most part, people descend well in Europe, just relax and hold your line – practice the hairpin turns prior to racing, you’ll have the whole road on race day, use it.
The tricky sections in descent are:
Passo Pordoi : Long, fast straights into tight hairpins… just be ready for them.
Passo Sella : There is a right turn which will have flaggers standing as warning, who’s radius is longer and sharper than it looks. It is approached after a long and fast straight section after the initial turns off the Pass itself. This turn is so serious that there is an emergency medical team and helicopter on standby at the turn.
Passo Valparola : After the switchbacks on top, a long, straight section is descended at high speed. This is the approach to a tricky right turn that is sharper than it first appears, again, get to know it before race day. Though they are for motorcycles, there are grave markers in this turn for a reason…
Overall, the roads should be in great condition as many of them get re-surfaced prior to the Maratona.

The top of the Passo Giau

Aid Station food, not just bananas & bars. Buon Appetito

Eating : This was where I made my mistake. While there are impressively stocked aid stations around the entire course, you won’t be checking in for a panino crudo if you are in race mode. But, you may want to consider it, either that or have your own pockets filled with what works for you.
After the Sellaronda there is the day’s only flattish/moderate section of road, and it is here where you must get some food down. It is the section after the descent of the Campolongo, from Arabba to Andraz and then again to the Colle Santa Lucia where there is a great aid station.
After Arabba, get some calories and salt in you for the evil Passo Giau, then let it digest enroute to the start of the climb after the Colle Santa Lucia.
Now… where I made my mistake. A good friend who does the Maratona every year warned me to be sure to eat something on top of the Giau or risk bonking on the last climb of the Falzarego.
Locally, I have heard the Giau referred to as Monkey Hill, for when you are climbing it you are sure that monkeys ran out from the forest and jumped on your back. But on race day, my friend warned me it is more like Cow Hill, you’ll feel as if you have a heifer on board. Fair enough, I would agree. It is a suffer fest.
In 2007, my data chip revealed I was in 90th position on top of the Giau, I did NOT eat, I bombed down in a small group I had cimbed with. I would pay the price, for on the last climb up to the Fazarego 44 people would pass me. There I sat, crawling up the pass with visions not of finish line glory, just pizza and pasta.
Water is found throughout and will be handed to you roadside.
Eat on top of the Giau, let it digest on descent. There is an aid station.

Behave, you might be on TV, the race is televised

Gearing : I have embraced the Compact set up; 50/34 – 12/25. For me this is perfect. But I climb a lot in training and weigh 61kg (132lbs). Substituting a 12/27 could be nice.
Again, the Giau…. cows will be along for the ride.

Temperatures/Weather : Even if the day dawns clear and warm, you should be somewhat ready for anything. When riding in the Dolomites, I almost always carry a superlight rainjacket in my jersey along with a thin headband – they can save the day and weigh next to nothing. Afternoon rainshowers are pretty common.

Etiquette : Do your thing, but remember the Golden Rule (Do unto others as you would have them do unto you) as there are a lot of people around.

Do not throw your trash on the road – there will be trash cans after aid stations, use them. You are not a pro so don’t act like one, it is no big deal to put your wrappers back in your jersey. In 2009 the second place overall finisher was DSQ’d for tossing trash on live TV.

Things Not to Miss in the Dolomites

The week leading up to the race is a cyclists dream. There are daily group rides to both check out the course as well as to tick other passes not in the race. Much of the fun simply comes from being around so many nationalities; Italians, Dutch, Germans, Americans, Swiss… they are all in great abundance, making friends is easy.

To Do List

Passo delle Erbe (my personal favorite in all the Dolomites) loop: From Alta Badia; Climb the Passo Gardena, descend west to the autostrada, climb the Erbe, descend back to Val Badia via San Martino (100km, difficult)

Cortina d’Ampezzo and the Tre Croce Loop: Less than an hour (in a car) from Alta Badia is the famous posh village of Cortina. Sitting right amongst many of the Dolomite’s iconic peaks, it is well worth a day to explore. If you want to ride, check out the Tre Croce loop from Cortina that takes you through Misurina and the most famous of all Dolomite areas, the Tre Cime di Lavaredo. From there descend to Carbonin and then back to Cortina (about 50km, moderate).
Post ride, eat a Pizza Fantastica at Ristorante Ariston in Cortina – my vote for best pizza in all of Italy.

Walk up to the Rifugio Santa Croce above Pedraces (Badia): This is kind of a rest day activity, or something for the family – quite possibly the most peaceful, beautiful place in all the Dolomites. And good food… There is also the option of taking a lift nearly to the top from the village of Pedraces, or it is a one hour uphill (easy) walk through the beautiful forest.

People watching/bike gawking is as good as it gets. Grab a Gelato or Radler (beer and limonata) post pedal and soak in the fun sitting roadside in the village of Corvara. Better yet, do it daily in each village and decide which is best.

Note: in Alta Badia, the focal point of the race, all the famous villages where most racers stay (San Cassiano, La Villa, Corvara, Pedraces, San Leonardo) are just a few kilometers from one another, so getting around on a bike is actually about the most efficient. At some point in the week prior to the race, the area will be so thick with cyclists that being in a car is slower than walking or riding.

For more information about the area, and for guided events, visit our partners at Holimites.

For more information about the region, including hotels & guides, visit our own DolomiteSport Network

Also, visit : The Official Maratona Website

This is where you want to end up; healthy, happy and hungry

To see more of our images from the Maratona dles Dolomites, visit our PatitucciPhoto professional page

Maratona dles Dolomites Photography

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In the coming weeks we will be photographing the course conditions as well as some viewpoints along the way, please be sure to check back in.

We want to hear from you : Others who have done the race, or after you do this year’s – share your experience, please chime in using Comments.

Sierra Nevada: The Range of Light & Fast

FOMO —Fear Of Missing Out—I have it, in the form of an extreme case. Years ago, when we first settled in California’s Eastern Sierra Nevada, the FOMO came on strong. Living in such close proximity to so many mountain sport options, how could it not? Each day the question; Do we go alpine climbing, sport climbing, bouldering, mountain running, mountain biking, or hiking? No matter how good our choice turned out, we were always left fearing that we had missed out on something better.

Janine running beneath Keeler Needle and the Mt. Whitney Group

But with inspiration from local ultra runner Phill Kiddoo and his suggestions of “Run-a-Bagging” big backcountry peaks, our recovery from FOMO began. Each time I mentioned a classic alpine route, Phill countered with, “I’ve run that.” He was rolling all of our outdoor passions into single summer days, running into alpine areas and climbing easy ridge routes to summits. Countless granite fins, towers, massifs and ridge crests guard many peaks but most offer easy scrambling routes requiring no more than time, trail-running shoes and a caffeine buzz. In fact, California’s Sierra Nevada is a truly ideal playground for mountain sports. Its warm, dry summers with minimal thunderstorm activity means possibilities are limited not by conditions, but rather by conditioning and motivation.

Our first steps toward FOMO recuperation began over the winter, when we created a hit list of local mountain runs. Virtually every trailhead offered a worthy objective. Come late June, as the snowpack gave way to dirt and bare rock, trails re-emerged and four months of backcountry running awaited Janine and I. We were chomping at the bit, since we had put in many training miles at lower elevations and had the fever to get up high.

Running Banner Peak

Dan headed into (l-r) Ritter and Banner

Our first objective was Banner Peak outside of the ski town of Mammoth Lakes, just 40 minutes north of Bishop. There, at the Agnew Meadow Trailhead, we set out pre-sunrise, facing 20 miles round trip and 5000 feet of climbing, a glacier crossing, a narrow snow couloir and a 3^rd-class rock ridge (no rope required but some exposure) to the summit of 12,936-foot Banner Peak.

Janine’s case of FOMO is much less severe than my own; in fact, she is mostly happy wherever she finds herself. For her, running to the base of Banner Peak without packs would have been a fulfilling day. I wanted the satisfaction of reaching the summit. Janine gave in to my plan and we began sorting and packing gear, one of the great joys of Run-a-Bagging is the combination of not having to use much gear but that which you do take must be perfect, therefore careful research (shopping) must be performed.

Janine headed up the snowfield splitting Ritter and Banner from the south

Our packs were small running models, just big enough for tights, wind shirt, hat, gloves and as many energy bars and gels that we could cram in. I would later learn that some friends measured these running peaks not in miles or hours but in the number of energy-gels consumed. Janine, being Swiss, typically measures her own runs in the number of Toblerone bars she can get down before their Matterhorn-like form succumbs to the afternoon heat. We also strapped super light Kahtoola crampons to our packs for the glacier and couloir. Finally, we prefer hand bottles in the backcountry, since they are quick to fill in creeks, save weight in the pack and make great palm shock absorbers when we stumble while gawking at the views.

The trails from most Eastern Sierra trailheads are steep, but Agnew Meadows is a rolling cruise through a river canyon. We spent the first couple of miles in the dark enjoying the solitude and quiet that only pre-dawn provides. Cold, wet grass overhanging the trail quickly drenched our skinny runners’ legs and made us long for the summer sun to fill the canyon. As the black sky grew lighter, there, looking impossibly far away, rose the bulk of Banner Peak and its even larger neighbor, Mount Ritter (13,143 feet).

Glissading the Ritter Banner couloir

The specter of our objective was usurped by our immediate need—to outrun the swarming mosquitoes capitalizing on our casual pace. Much of the trail follows Shadow Creek, which flows over a series of granite shelves creating numerous waterfalls. Soon we were above tree line at the glacier, where we swapped modes from running to power hiking over the steepening snow/ice. We wore running shorts all the way up the couloir, where we caught two hikers who were also gunning for Banner Peak. It was an interesting contrast.

Us: trail-running shoes, short shorts, bright red crampons, both hands strapped to water bottles and smiles on our faces.

Them: mountain boots, full climbing attire, large packs, ice axes and smiles on their faces (or were they just laughing at us?).

“Where did you come from?” they asked.

“Agnew Meadows Trailhead,” I answered.

“And you’re here already? No way. ”

“No, really, we ran in.”

“Ran in? Why?”

“Uh, because we’re trail runners …” I decided to leave it at that and not mention the fact that we would be home by early afternoon enjoying a pale ale and plotting the next trip.

Janine and I topped out in the couloir, removed our crampons and headed up the ridge. On this section, we appreciated the versatility of modern trail shoes – especially those with sticky rubber for good grip on rock. Less than an hour of scrambling took us to the summit.

It wasn’t even noon yet, so we kicked back and had some laughs reading the bizarre, altitude-enhanced, summit-register entries as they usually involve God, “I can’t believe I made it” testimonials or something resembling an Oscar speech.

I added my own, knowing our climbing friends would be along in a few minutes. “Agnew Meadow to Banner Peak, car to car—the Sierra really is made to be the Range of Light and Fast.”

After descending the rock section we whooped down the glacier in full glissade mode. Freezing cold sections of creekside trail from the morning were now tempting swimming holes in the afternoon heat. The thought of sandwiches beat the need to cool off, and, besides, we were still embracing the joy of movement. It had been a full day and we were in love with “Run-a-Bagging.” By combining so many things we love, we had found the cure for FOMO and look forward to many years of treatment.

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DolomiteSport’s note… This article was originally written in 2004 and published in Trail Runner Magazine. Looking back, I see it truly was the beginning of a love affair with mountain running in to climb easy peaks. Countless similar trips have been done since in mountains throughout the world.

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Eastern Sierra Nevada Trail Running Resources

Basecamp

Dan cooling off in one of countless High Sierra lakes

Bishop (pop. 3800) is strategically located in the heart of the Sierra Nevada, and serves as the jumping-off point to countless trail systems, most within an hour of town.

Getting There. Bishop lies on California Highway 395 along the eastern escarpment of the range, approximately three and a half hours south of Reno and four to five hours north of Los Angeles. The town of Mammoth Lakes (40 minutes away) now has flights in and out from LA, Reno, and San Jose – check in with them for more info. Mammoth may also serve as your basecamp and is higher in elevation and much cooler than Bishop for mid-Summer visits.

Seasons. While summer days can hit 100 degrees in town, Sierra trailheads 20 minutes away can be quite chilly. July through September are the best months for mountain running.

Resources. Drop into Bishop’s prestigious running shop, Sage to Summit on Main Street for maps and trail information. Sage to Summit’s owner Karen Schwartz, is currently compiling running trail information for a soon-to-be-released guide to the Eastern Sierra.

R.J. Secor’s The High Sierra; Peaks, Passes and Trails is the bible for local hiking and climbing. Remember though: a great hiking trail may not always be suitable for running due to the surface and steepness. The book’s information is best for ascending the peak’s themselves. For running selects again, Sage to Summit is your resource.

Food and Drink. Bishop’s Black Sheep Cafe is where to get your morning buzz & carbs as well as to meet like-minded trail mammals. Evenings are best spent at the Whiskey Creek Happy Hour in downtown Bishop, or better yet, on your tailgate tucked away in some cool backcountry parking spot near a trailhead.

Sierra Tick List

Jason Hamm headed to Mt. Emerson

Bishop Area

> North Lake—Piute Pass—Mount Emerson : A great warmup for Sierra mountain running. A six-mile casual climb to Piute Pass serves as a primer for the thousand feet of talus to the summit of Mount Emerson.

> South Lake—Bishop Pass—Mount Agassiz : Running to Bishop Pass is a local tradition. Adding the northwest slope of Mount Agassiz makes it even better. An almost entirely run-able six-mile trail puts you at the base of the switchbacks to Bishop Pass, attain the col, follow the slopes where they drop onto the pass then head straight to the summit. Stunning views of the Palisade Crest await.

> Evolution Loop—North Lake to South Lake : THE Sierra classic. Replacing summits with passes, this 40- to 70-mile loop will have you seriously considering Eastern Sierra real estate. A variety of early options exist to customize the length. Choose the Lamarck Col over Piute Pass to eliminate about 25 miles. No matter what you choose you will end up running the John Muir Trail (JMT) through the Evolution Basin, arguably the Sierra Nevada’s perfect spot. Next up is Muir Pass; consider the JMT Thru-Runner’s body condition at this point—mile 100 of their 215-mile journey.

Janine running into Bishop Pass

Janine climbing Mt. Agassiz's north slopes high above Bishop Pass, 3rd class

Janine Patitucci running in the Sierra high country, Evolution Loop

> Glacier Lodge/South Fork Big Pine Creek—East Face of Middle Palisade : The choice for the mountaineer-runner. A steep trail run and cross-country travel brings you to a small glacier and the East Face of the 14,000-foot Middle Palisade Peak. Here you will curse the author at the site of the imposing wall in front of you. But really, it is 4^th class, quite safe and easy (I too was intimidated). Gain the face by the right side of the prow where it splits the glacier.

Dan Patitucci on the Shepherd Pass Trail

> Shepherd Pass—Mount Tyndall : If a remote, grueling 12-mile uphill run to a long ridge to 14,000 feet sounds like fun, this is the run for you. Shepherd Pass is known for being hard and mentally tough, as no matter how much you run, the pass never seems to get closer – I suggest starting well before first light. Luckily, it is also known for being wondrous in its alpine setting.

Mammoth Area

> Agnew Meadow—Banner Peak : As described above in the feature story, this is our favorite of the bunch. Get an early start to avoid afternoon heat when running out of the canyon.

Mountain Trail Running and Peak Bagging : Gear List

Shoes. Trail-running shoes with sticky rubber are a must. We are longtime La Sportiva fans as they have the mountain running shoe dialed in with real support, protection and sticky rubber, the combination of which is helpful for Run-a-Bagging.

Clothing. Mid summer, the Sierra are warm, hot even, but, they are mountains and as such, anything can happen. If the forecast is good, my usual set up is running shorts, light weight tights, running-T, long sleeve, thin insulated vest, super light rain shell. Of course, a beanie and gloves. Extra socks might be  good idea both for that fresh feeling and to avoid the dirt and grit rub. Thunderstorms are the threat for getting wet and cold.

Trail running packs should fit trim and tight against the back

Probably fine...?

Packs. Just large enough to accommodate food & water, clothing (see above), and map. Pack stability is important, test yours on short and long runs before you commit to a serious day. Packs can end up rubbing, causing sore necks, or, even after feeling comfortable in the shop, being hopelessly uncomfortable on hour 4. The perfect pack is out there, find it.

Hydration. We like hand-held bottles, although bladder systems work well too. Hand bottles are easily monitored,  easy to fill creekside and keep weight off your back. Sierra water may be crystal clear, but using a water filter or chemical treatment is wise. Up to you… sometimes I do, sometimes I don’t.

Calories & Salt. In recent years I have gone back to normal food when out, it is pretty tough to beat a homemade burrito. Just be sure to have a good mix of of salty and sweet. If you do bars, remember, the Sierra can be hot, choose accordingly, Larabar and Clif Bar work well. Finally, even in the High Sierra you are sweating, probably a lot— consider replacing lost electrolytes with a supplement like E-Caps.

Kahtoola crampons are great for spring ascents of high peaks, like here on Mt. Dana

First aid. Carry athletic tape and gauze for patching skinned knees, etc. For lightweight kits, check out Adventure Medical Kits. The Sierra Nevada are a high mountain range with many passes over 12,000 feet and loads of summits over 13,000. Know your limits, pay attention to headaches, don’t just treat them with drugs.

Crampons. Most routes don’t require them, but those that do will have you wanting a pair of lightweight Kahtoolas. They’re made to work on hiking and running shoes.

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Shop Mountain Gear for the best trail running shoes, clothing & training equipment

Huts vs. Camping

“But one doesn’t really camp in the Dolomites…”.

I knew further protest could jeopordize work for a favorite client, instead I listened, “But for the shoot we need camping, we want to see that kind of ski tour, no huts”.

The PatitucciPhoto workplace

“No huts?” The pain was lessened by the fact that the huts are actually closed this time of year so camping would not include any windblown scent of Penne all’Arrabbiata. “Ok, let’s do it.” But my next thought was, “With whom are we going to do it?” Italians don’t camp in their own mountains, and with snow on the ground, I had some work to do.

Enter Alberto De Giuli (aka BG, Bloody Gorgeous): BG, “Sure, when do we go?” Me, “Really!?” BG, “Ya, let’s do it, and I know the spot”. Me, “We need someone else, another guy.” …”My friend Andrea will join us”. This was too easy, something was wrong.

Enter Stress: The weather forecast for our shoot days went from sun, to snow. I considered canceling. Then, with 48 hours to go it turned to iffy.

Enter Volcano: Let’s not forget the eruption and a little change in the wind direction that put Europe under an ash fallout warning. More stress.

Enter Good Fortune: The morning we were to start was crystal clear and cold with ash free blue skies. As if made to order, 10cm of fresh snow covered the Dolomites. Our approach was track free, things were looking good. With the huts closed, less people were venturing into the mountains, our determination was going to pay off. A little piece of the Dolomites would be our own.

Smartwool Review

This is our third year shooting advertising for Smartwool. Early on the Marketing Boss saw Janine and I as photographers with whom he would like to build a relationship. Rather than hire us for a shoot to see how it went, he had the vision of building a relationship where together we developed a style for the brand. It wasn’t a one off, it was a multi-year commitment. For all involved it has been great.

Camping in the Dolomites

But, there is the case of my stubborn willingness to try wool. For this, I am teased and taunted. Janine is a long time fan while I have been committed to synthetics. Finally, this last December we received a size-able box of Smartwool goodies as a gift. I dug in, liked what I saw, and implemented wool into my wardrobe. I told Smartwool I would review the stuff, but that I would do it with an honest voice.

Briefly, I like it. A lot. And the fashion & function conscious Italians? “Bello”, was repeated over and over. But, the Gear Review will have to wait and be part 2 of this little tale.

Smartwool Consensus: Andrea & Alberto say "Thumbs Up"

Andrea Gabrielli skiing powder

Enter an Admission: NOT being in a hut was fantastic. It all came back to me, my roots, how it all started, that feeling of being out and not on any program. Melting snow, sleeping on ice, being cold, the wind, everything frozen… well ya, it does kind of suck. But this sort of experience tends to come with lots of laughter, the people make it, they always do. BG was, as always, brilliant fun. And his friend Andrea was equally as fun – all this made for a great time. For two days it was how it all started, Janine and I living in a tent, charging around the mountains, making photos of friends.

And with this realization came another; As much as I love using huts, they don’t belong everywhere. There is something about the freedom and that little added hardship which completes the mountain experience (but not all the time). California’s Sierra Nevada come to mind. I have been engaged in a friendly debate regarding this subject with several close friends back in my home mountains. I am throwing in the towel. While planning a month climbing in the Sierra later this year with Janine and Alberto, I am finding myself increasingly excited to get into the backcountry and on our own (BG, …more of the same minus the snow).

Pasta dinner - of course, it's Italy

Alpine start to make the summit for sunrise

Andrea and Alberto bootpacking the last bit to the summit

Sunrise made better with volcanic ash in the Dolomites

Andrea Gabrielli skiing in the Italian Dolomites

by John Stamstad, part 2

Sleep deprivation is a pretty fascinating thing. Everywhere I looked, inanimate objects were moving, even the rocks, they just kept shifting around. The big rocks looked like tents, I mean they looked exactly like tents. I would stop and go up to them, usually say, “hello is anyone home” and have to touch it before being convinced that it was rock instead of ripstop.

That night my sleep deprivation induced imaginary friends came out. I had about 4 alter egos who would help me problem solve, that way I could concentrate on running and they would take care of the other details. It sounds a little crazy to write about it now but at the time and in that state– which is like being a live character in a dream world– I didn’t think anything of it, it seemed logical. And it was actually very productive. One of them suggested that I wear the pack facing forward on my chest. I remember thinking, “Man why didn’t I think of that”. It worked like a charm for my back but the downside is when you wear your pack on the front you can’t see your feet, which means you trip a lot and have to go slowly.

These lower passes of Gladys and Ruby Lake –lower being only 10,000 ft–were warmer but going up Donahue was brutal—40mph winds and cold. There was nowhere to hide, I just had to put my head down and go. I got over the top and I really needed to sleep, this was my fifth night and I had only slept 2 hours total. I made it down to tree line but it was still way below freezing. I decided to bivy anyway. I pulled out my space bag only to find that it had ripped apart. I didn’t have much choice so I just laid down between two fallen trees for some shelter and wrapped the remnants of the bag around me like a blanket. I woke up an hour later and realized that my legs were so cold they had no feeling from the knee down. When I moved to feel them, my hands were like clubs, so numb from the cold that I couldn’t uncurl my fingers. I couldn’t even get up to walk. After a short panic attack, and a few agonizing minutes, I was able to get some circulation and movement back and I restored calm.  As soon as I could, I got moving and tried to generate some desperately needed heat.  I had 7 miles to go to Tuolumne Meadows, and as soon as I hit the warm sun I stopped and lay down on a rock…….

Behind the Scenes, part 2

by Dan Patitucci

Deep in the forest beneath the south side of Half Dome, we heard the phone ring. “I can’t believe we have service back here”, was the first thought that came to mind, much less whom would be calling, it was John. “You’re where?” …”The Tuolumne Store, I’m done, I’ll be at the store, on the side of the road, you’ll find me”.

Janine and I had run in hoping to meet John along the way so we could run out with him to the finish in Yosemite Valley. Now we were sprinting back to the car, knowing John would appreciate a timely pick up, still an hour plus drive away.

We pulled into the Tuolumne store’s parking lot right at dusk, and there, huddled amongst the boulders was a person so annihilated it could only be the result of 200 miles of running. In the shadows John lay as a dark mass, we helped him up and immediately noted the shredded shoes, filthy and torn clothing and the fact that his feet were anything but usable. “You must be ready to get out of here” I said. “I’m ready for a beer”.

A couple of hours later, after beers and fish tacos at the Mobile Mart, we pulled up to our Bishop house. John was long gone and waking him was tough, getting him out of the car harder still. Here was proof that rigor mortis is possible while alive. Once inside the house, he came up short of the bed, shorter yet to the shower, and collapsed in the armchair, displacing our cat. Once again, he was out. Here, in the light of the living room, I studied him. This was a man who had just run the John Muir Trail and had not slept much at all in 5 days. He looked the part. I have never done anything to push myself to these extremes, but I could imagine that what he felt inside his destroyed body was pure joy. I was left tremendously inspired.

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John Muir Trail Photography

To see images of the John Muir Trail, visit our great friend, and professional photographer John Dittli’s website as he has produced the definitive coffee table book on the trail.

A John Muir Trail Record Attempt

by John Stamstad, Part 1

John Stamstad

My run started four and a half days earlier on a cool evening at the Mt Whitney portal trailhead, just outside of Lone Pine, California. The John Muir Trail (JMT) goes for 200 miles and climbs almost 50,000 ft  before it crosses a road—I don’t know of many  trails in the world that can make that claim, if any—and this is in California of all places. Not only does it not cross a road, there are virtually no signs of civilization the entire way. I never saw city lights, I never heard the drone of a highway, and I don’t think I even saw a powerline. For an outdoor person, this is what heaven looks like. The trail is appropriately named after John Muir, who founded the Sierra Club and played a significant role in creating the National Park System. I think it is very fitting that the most significant point-to-point trail in the US is named after the most significant naturalist, and it is an absolute miracle that this wilderness is fairly unchanged from when Muir was exploring it in the late 1800’s. We all owe a lot to John Muir.

The Sierra Nevada’s Perfect Mountain Trail

Ready, set, go. The John Muir Trail

John Stamstad running the John Muir Trail through Evolution Basin

Behind the Scenes of Stamstad’s Record Attempt

by Dan Patitucci

“Sir, the John Muir Trail is not a day hike”.

This, from the overweight, under experienced desk ranger at the Lone Pine Ranger Office upon hearing that John did not intend to camp on the 220 mile trail. I was gagging on laughter as she went on to explain to one of the world’s best endurance athletes how the Muir Trail requires weeks of walking and camping. John, in his usual stoic way, listened patiently and politely. Finally he fessed up, “I’m running the trail, I’m not stopping, therefore I am not camping.”

The Ranger excused herself to call her supervisor. A square peg had walked in and did not fit into her round hole of bureaucratic training. To make a decision, she would need the help of a superior. A short time later she returned with newly drawn up regulations for John to read over. It stated John would not camp along the way, for if he did, he would need a bear canister. He agreed and together we exited the air conditioned building with permit in hand.

An hour later, on an unusually cold autumn evening, he stood at the Whitney Portal Trailhead seemingly unconcerned by the rapidly approaching darkness and cold night. On his back he wore a large Patagonia hydration pack bursting with high calorie foods, hopefully enough to get him to Yosemite National Park along one of the countries most demanding trails. He looked down at his watch, clicked start, said, “Cheers”, and was off. I watched him float away before turning to my car to drive home.

Two days later I woke early to get a head start on my own day. The plan was to run over Lamarck Col, through Evolution Basin and up Muir Pass where John said he would likely be passing at a specific time. The Sierra, in typical fall fashion, were spectacular and my own long day in was blissful. While heading up Muir Pass I saw a crouched figure ahead, descending awkwardly and slowly  - but nevertheless, the figure was running. It was John, exactly on schedule.

Upon connecting it became immediately apparent that he was in a bad state. His neck was killing him, his mouth was filled with sores from being stressed & eating odd foods, and of course he was utterly exhausted after running 100+ miles with no sleep, much of it over 11,000 feet. All of this in addition to having spent two nights out in well below freezing temps.

Being an unsupported attempt, I could give him nothing but encouragement. I could only watch him in his effort. It was a thing of beauty to see a man so driven to succeed. Together we ran through what is arguably the Sierra’s most beautiful valley, poor John unable to raise his head. I made some photos, told him a few jokes, and reminded him that Janine and I would be there at the end for him. Once again I watched him float away, halfway finished, and again I too turned on my own heels and ran my puny 15 miles out.  …..to be continued