Backcountry Skiing

Luxury Dolomites Mountain Guiding

Italian backcountry ski lunch

Guiding Italian Style by Alberto De Giuli

Some of us Italian Mountain Guides have it pretty good working in the Dolomites.
Most of our work days guiding clients in the Dolomites are spent skiing amazing backcountry powder, wandering through the wilderness or climbing steep ice. All of this is normal for our work, but it’s not only this type of guiding.

In the last few years, tourism in the Dolomite’s has evolved as many people from Russia and Kazakhstan come to visit and spend their Christmas and New Year’s here in the luxury of our mountains, primarily the Alta Badia and Val Gardena.

The wealthier of these people have started moving from the French and Swiss Ski Resorts after discovering the treasures and high style of the Dolomites. Undoubtedly one of the best places in the world to stay with friends and family for ski holidays.

These visitors always demand the best hotels, facilities and of course the best food to be had. Everything to be the best as you can understand… They will always hire ski teachers for their kids and for themselves mountain guides to help them move around the lifts and slopes. They are not so interested in skiing off-piste, or ski touring or snowshoeing. Their aim is the best slopes, fast but not too difficult and never too flat. The second and most important goal of these visitors is what we Guides must be most careful about; lunch.

With most of my clients, I first take them to the mountains, make them work, ski something beautiful and become satisfied with themselves and their day.

But with these new guests, these are days when I say, “Yes, we’re going to ski …but first we’ll go out for lunch”. To prepare for these guests I really don’t have to check the snow avalanche bulletin or the weather forecast. What I really need is a wide telephone number list of the best restaurants around, in the downtowns, or better yet in the mountains. My job is to seek and book a nice table to make my guests smile as I guide them through this, their dream day in the Dolomites. The tricky part in the mountains is working for those who love fish and seafood… I’ll have to find just the right place.

At the end of their holiday, they will have been stunned by the Dolomite’s dramatic scenery and amazed by these towering walls that come out from the forests. They’ll also realize that here they have nothing but the best for their families in these valleys: well organized ski schools for their kids, luxury hotels, friendly local people and of course the results of their hired mountain guide’s hard work, the best Italian food.

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Alberto De Giuli is an Aspirant Mountain Guide living and working in the Italian Dolomites. Besides being a fantastic guide, athlete and one of my best friends, he has a tremendous talent for finding just the right lunch no matter your taste.

Rating: 5.0/5 (1 vote cast)

Understanding Backcountry Ski Touring Gear

Jan 19th, 2010

by dolomitesport.

2 comments

Backcountry Ski Options by Howie Schwartz

As a professional ski and mountain guide, I use and recommend Dynafit touring bindings. I also sometimes use and recommend Fritschi Diamir’s. I use and recommend Marker Barons with regular alpine boots. And yes, I even still use telemark gear on occasion.

Do I contradict myself by supporting such a broad spectrum of backcountry touring gear? No, I don’t think so. There used to be two types of skiing: resort skiing and backcountry skiing. Now, there are many ways to ski the mountains of the world: ski touring, ski mountaineering, ski running, XCD, ski camping, off-piste skiing, sidecountry, slackcountry, lift-accessed backcountry skiing, cat-skiing, heli-skiing, heli-hut skiing, sled ghost riding, speed flying, ski BASE jumping etc. Gear is becoming more specialized, designed to address a broader spectrum of backcountry ski activities. I like skiing. I like many types of skiing and I own a quiver of gear for all of them.

Internationally, one thing is agreed upon by most all backcountry skiers: heavier and fatter generally translates to: more efficient descent and less efficient ascent. Greater efficiency leads to increased levels of enjoyment. People want equipment that will maximize pleasure.

Classic ski touring in the Italian Dolomites

You better know how to make those skis turn in terrain like this

I think where the problem starts is American manufacturers selling the wrong equipment to the consumer. They create a few mid-range products that supposedly rule at everything – “a quiver of one.” These products can be OK, but they usually do nothing very well. One prominent company’s slogan for their backcountry equipment is, “It’s all about the down.” If it were really all about the down their skis and boots would be heavier and perform like regular alpine gear. Are they really trying to convince the backcountry touring customer that it is all about the down when they are spending 70-80% of their time going up? It is no surprise that these products do not sell so well in the educated European market.

I see the difference between mainstream European and American approaches as more geographical than cultural. There are many places in the Alps where light and fast touring is key for linking amazing itineraries in very rugged terrain. The Alps have the comfort and safety of civilization around every mountain corner. Popular backcountry ski venues in the US such as the Wasatch in Utah, Teton Pass in Wyoming, and the Front Range in Colorado are relatively tame. The average tour in these locations is shorter and more straight up and down, car to car. The snowpack in these venues tends to be consistently soft, light, and deep – great for fat skis.

When it really is all about the down, have fun with your ski choice

The combination of these geographic characteristics guides the gear choices people make. It is not based so much on cultural difference. Go to places in the Alps like Verbier, Switzerland or La Grave, France in winter and you will see people in the backcountry with gear biased toward downhill performance. It only makes sense. You will see a similar bias in North American heli-skiing, and modern sidecountry skiing accessed from a growing number of ski resorts worldwide.

The Eastern Sierra is a confusing place for modern backcountry skiers. Here, the most exciting skiing is in wilderness. This means hauling your ass up the hill. The hills here are not trivial either and 7000 foot descents from alpine summit to desert sage are a world-class main attraction. If you are lugging big heavy gear up these mountainsides you are wasting tons of energy. Nowadays, lightweight AT gear is so high performance that the High Sierra is more stompable than ever.

I have seen many aspiring backcountry skiers confounded by the dearth of backcountry gear choices available. When buying, first ask yourself where and when you want to go. This will help you understand the best set-up for your situation. If you are like me, you worship backcountry skiing. You don’t want to be confined to one type of it. It is all so good, especially when you are using the right equipment for the tour.

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Howie Schwartz is a professional UIAGM/IFMGA Ski and Mountain Guide. Based in California’s Eastern Sierra Nevada, Howie is co-owner of Sierra Mountain Guides; a Guiding service specialized in climbing, skiing, trekking, and even trail running throughout the world. Howie also teaches AIARE Avalanche courses throughout the west and is quite possibly one of the most annoying people to ski with thanks to his ability to make all snow look like powder by skiing everything perfectly. He is also a brilliant bluegrass musician. –DolomiteSport is lucky to have Howie’s thoughts about understanding ski gear choices

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Visit Sierra Mountain Guides

North American and International Ski Guiding including: The Haute Route, The Ortler Circuit, June Mountain Backcountry, Palisades Crest Tour, Bishop Skyline Tour, Ritter Range High Tour, and many more world class ski tours, as well as Climbing, Trekking, and Mountain Running.

Rating: 5.0/5 (2 votes cast)

Choosing Backcountry Ski Gear

Jan 18th, 2010

by dolomitesport.

20 comments

Ski touring big mountain terrain can mean big time getting there

In the last couple of years I have seen backcountry ski gear trends go in opposite directions in the US compared to Europe. Living in Europe, and skiing primarily big mountain terrain or long tours, I have embraced the idea of using lighter gear and shorter skis. In returning to the US for a time this winter, I have noticed a completely different idea about backcountry gear. In California’s Eastern Sierra Nevada, where the terrain is massive, I see people skiing gear better suited for shorter, front range tours than huge elevation gain with lots of distance. This got me thinking about sharing a little of what I have learned in Europe.

While America certainly has legendary skiers who have pioneered technology, ideas, and been on top of the game – the overall concept of backcountry skiing is still in its infancy for most Americans who are starting to consider the sport. These newcomers to the backcountry are being directly influenced by an industry that needs to look cutting edge and “hardcore”. As a result there is possible confusion as to what gear is really best for every type of skier, and for those learning, the gear may make or break the experience.

In the US, people are going fatter and heavier (I’m talking about ski gear in this case, not the people). Yet they still want to skin up peaks and ski down. Meanwhile, the Europeans are trending towards lighter gear, possibly as a result of the massive popularity of ski randonee racing and the superlight gear spinning off from it. This isn’t to say that all the gear is light in Europe, fat skis are as ubiquitous as a morning coffee, but in the right places, and not so much for touring.

When taking it to the mountains, the Euros go in the opposite direction – light, short, and fast. Meanwhile in the US, the notion of “fat is best” seems to prevail even when the day will involve an enormous amount of elevation gain. And to this concept I address this post by suggesting the option of trying some of the new, and lighter, ski gear. Performance may not necessarily suffer as a result, in fact it may actually improve.

European Ski Rando Racing is where the light gear is coming from

More time is spent doing this than the down part. You might as well embrace and enjoy it.

I am just going to throw an idea out there and see what comes back at me.

The vast majority of skiers I see in the US are on gear that is so overkill for their abilities that it is laughable. Witness the weekend warriors… huffing and puffing up skin tracks only to arrive at the top exhausted. They then proceed to ski marginal quality snow with tired legs.

Meanwhile, many longtime backcountry skiers who ski most everyday have actually gone in the direction of using much lighter gear to enjoy the climb, which is what a backcountry skier spends the vast majority of their time doing anyway. They cruise to the tops of things and then, like the guy on heavy gear, also proceed to ski the same marginal quality snow which really skis just the same regardless of what gear you are on. In most backcountry mountain conditions performance comes from the skier’s ability, not that of the gear. And when the snow is good? The guy on the fat boards loves it, but so too the guy on the light gear. For good snow is just that, and it is easy to ski no matter what you find yourself steering.

So are you on the right gear for you, or are you on the gear the shop employee wanted to sell you? Or the magazine ad? Or the ski movie you watched.

My personal set up for the Sierra, all around simple and light

My story: Two years ago I began skiing more and more backcountry terrain on ultralight Dynafit FR10s with Dynafit bindings. I decreased the length of my ski to 160 (I am 5’8”/135lbs). Then, as I got more into ski rando racing in Europe, I started to ski everything in my race boots, the Scarpa F1s. Suddenly I was enjoying skiing more than ever, the light gear gives me freedom, the short skis make life in tight spaces or steep terrain much easier and I am no slower on any descent.
But my preferred day in the backcountry is to go big, cover a lot of ground, gain a ton of elevation and to enjoy every part of the day. I am not so into focusing just on descents as I prefer to take in the overall experience of skiing in the mountains.
I do own fat skis and performance boots for certain terrain and conditions, but for me personally the lighter gear is the right fit for most of where and what I ski.

Telemark skiing

The Telemark Skiing Myth

There is a little something I keep hearing that really must be challenged. Americans often say, “Ya, I want to start skiing the backcountry, but I don’t know how to telemark.”
Folks…… one does not need to telemark to ski in the backcountry. Ski Randonee, or Alpine Touring gear, especialy Dynafit, allows you to ski anything you would ski on alpine gear. Comfortably skin up, lock your heels down, tighten your boots, and down you go.
Telemark skiing is much more difficult to learn, less versatile in mixed snow conditions of a big tour and it seems most telemarkers end up doing alpine turns the majority of the time. If you already know how to alpine ski, stick with it.
That said, telemark skiing truly is one of the most special skills one can learn. I did it for years and still few things compare to dropping your knee in powder. To watch a good telemarker is a joy as it is a beautiful movement. But again, is it right for what you want to be doing when starting out?

Use the ski gear that is right for you, but know what you want to ski

Finally, another reason I am enjoying my light AT gear is the fact that it is a joy to go out and use. I don’t have a heavy, overly stiff ski boot to fight on the climb, or the lead weights attached to my feet. I enjoy stepping into my gear and not feeling weighed down and I enjoy going skiing up as much as making turns. All of this adds up to more time in the mountains, and ultimately this is what I am after most.

What does a Professional Ski and Mountain Guide think?

As a follow up to this post, and to get a different perspective, American UIAGM Mountain Guide and skier extraordinaire, Howie Schwartz of Sierra Mountain Guides will discuss his thoughts surrounding backcountry ski gear. Check in again in the coming days.

The beginning of a long and fantastic day skiing in California's Sierra Nevada

Rating: 4.8/5 (4 votes cast)

Bring it ON

Jan 17th, 2010

by dolomitesport.

No comments yet

Getting ready to drop into an Eastern Sierra Nevada couloir on Mt. McGee

With a series of massive Pacific Storms barreling towards the coast of California, we headed out this morning to ski one last day in the Sierra backcountry. Estimates for snow totals are hitting the 2-3 meter number for the coming week. Looks like some office (and shoveling) time is coming. Bring it ON.

Rating: 5.0/5 (1 vote cast)

Dolomite Skiing | Sella Group Couloirs

Jan 7th, 2010

by dolomitesport.

1 comment

Text and photos Francesco Tremolada | ProGuide.it

Skiing the Sella Group, the Kingdom of Couloirs

Sitting in the heart of the Italian Dolomites and rising above some of the region’s most famous villages is The Sella Group. Simply put, it takes your breath away. With its massive towers and labyrinth like corridors, it is a tremendous rock formation. Consisting of many different peaks it is a complex structure: all sides are rocky and vertical, and yet the top is flat. At its base there are four valleys linked together by the most efficient lift system in the world. This circuit, all on groomed pistes, is called the “Sellaronda” and runs around this mountain offering unforgettable views on each side. Skiers come from all over the world to spend a full day circumnavigating this island of stone on perfect alpine pistes.

At first glance, it seems to be a mountain impossible to ski, but a closer look reveals many different “white snakes” coming down from the top plateau through the coloured walls. These are the famous couloirs of the Dolomites. The Sella is the best place if you want to know them and understand the feeling of couloir skiing.

The Sass Pordoi cable car is the “door” of the kingdom and in only a few minutes we are on the top of the Altiplano, close to 3000 meters where the air is always cold and views to the Marmolada and beyond, stunning.
A tourist asks us where are we going with skis, because there are no pistes here and from the terrace you can only see huge cliffs… He doesn’t know that it is possible to move on the Altiplano and reach many hidden off-piste descents.
We start to ski on the flat summit of Sass Pordoi making the first track in 15 centimeters of fresh snow; the day is cold and sunny and I can feel the excitement of the guys who are skiing with me.
The first turns are a good warm up and in few minutes we reach the forcella Pordoi; the temptation to ski the south couloir or the north side (Lasties Valley) without tracks is very strong, but our goal is Piz Boè at 3152 meters, the highest peak of the group. For this, it is always better to go before it will becomes too warm.
We start to traverse toward the Mesdì valley, the most famous off-piste itinerary of the area, a kind of “Vallèè Blanche” of the Dolomites.
But before its starting point we move right and start climbing with crampons on over the easy but rocky west ridge of Piz Boè. We’re headed for the little hut on the summit.
Now it’s time for a rest, close to the wood wall of the hut where we are protected by the wind and where the sun is stronger. From here the view is unbelievable and we can see in distance other skiers walking to Mesdì Valley and a group skinning up to north side of the Altiplano toward the Setus Valley, one of the best traverse of the Sella group.
In few minutes we start the ritual to get ready for the descent: crampons into the backpack, boots tightened, skis on, goggles, skipoles…rock and roll.
The northest face is wide and quite steep. Many people say that skiing a couloir is frightening, and here this is maybe a little true, because from where we start we can see the valley under your skis! It is time to find out.Thanks to the good snow, we all drop in and make perfect turns to reach the next starting point to the “Val delle Fontane”, an incredibly steep couloir which is hidden from the top. Here is the only possibility to ski down this side of Sella.
We are lucky, the sun has softened the snow in just the right amount. The couloir requires perfect snow for skiing.
Thankfully, the rope remains in the backpack and we start to ski the 40° corridor with jump turns between the gold and orange walls. With blue sky above our heads, we all descend, smiling, to the valley.
The ride is a pleasure and quickly the couloir is wide enough for longer turns. The skis move the surface of the snow drawing a perfect track behind. Stops are only for brief rests, to take pictures and to see the others in action (and to breathe!), but we prefer not to stop too much or it feels as if our “dream” is escaping.
At the end of the gully we have to traverse right to reach the open slopes; now it’s easier, there is no longer tension, but the snow is starting to be heavy …and our legs too.
Once we reach the lifts at the bottom we look back up to see our tracks in the couloir. They always seem to be much steeper from this perspective and I can see the satisfaction in the eyes of my client. This brings me great joy, to reveal the passages that are hidden in this great mountain.
But it’s only lunch time, if we keep moving the snow on the north side will still be good…

Francesco Tremolada is a UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain and Ski Guide based in the Italian Dolomites

Francesco works with Corvara’s Alta Badia Guides School and specializes in steep skiing. He has countless hard descents to his credit, many with clients in both the Dolomites and the Alps.

He is also the author of the new guidebook “Freeride in Dolomiti”, unarguably the finest guide for skiing in the Dolomites.

Contact : info@proguide.it

Phone +39 339 105 5653

www.proguide.it

(DolomiteSport Sidenote – I would like to personally say thank you to Francesco for his contribution. Also, to add that for most any skier who dreams of dropping into these famous couloirs, they are not easy to find… using the services of a mountain guide will be appreciated)

Rating: 5.0/5 (3 votes cast)

Skiing Mt. Baldwin

Dec 30th, 2009

by dolomitesport.

1 comment

Backcountry Ski Report from December 29, along with some skiing photos from the day back to Mt. Baldwin.

An unexpected 4-5 inches of new snow was up high on the Sierra Crest. Down feathers would be a good term to describe it. Last night’s little system didn’t seem to have any wind as everything was uniformly covered in a white frosting.

But tonight’s event is supposed to bring, sadly, a couple feet of wind. Damn. We’ll have to find some place new to ski knee deep fluff.

Please note that once again, the photos end where the skins get yanked. My month off shooting work photos is about to end.

Enjoy the Sierra skiing photos from another great day. John Dittli will be posting a video from today as well at his John Dittli Blog.