Dolomites Climbing: Pressknödel & Super Erectissima

The Dolomites Tre Cime di Lavaredo are undoubtedly one of the most beautiful settings in what are arguably the world’s most beautiful mountains. The north faces of these towering walls are home to world famous steep rock climbing, rich in history and tradition.

Professional Italian climber and UIAGM Mountain Guide Kurt Astner has been busy freeing both old aid lines as well as putting up some routes of his own on the dizzying steep walls of the Cima Ovest and Cima Grande. In 2008, I joined him on Jean Couzy (8a+) and photographed the difficult moves through the wildly overhanging route’s mid section.

Kurt Astner climbing Jean-Couzy, 8a+ at the Italian Dolomites Tre Cime di Lavaredo

In the summer of 2010 he established an all new route, Pressknödel (7c), with fellow UIAGM Mountain Guide and professional climber Christoph Hainz. The line is on the Cima Ovest’s right side, starting left of the classic Cassin Route. In the same summer he repeated a Czech team’s work, the all free 8a+ Super Erectissima.

Kurt again asked me to join him on the two routes, but time and time again poor August weather delayed the work. We even managed to get up on the routes in preparation for the photo work only to have thick cloud cover, rain and ice force us down. Finally, in late August, the high class climbing magazine Vertical became involved and renewed our motivation with a deadline for a story on Kurt’s climbing.

On September 4 we were able to photograph both routes in decent weather. Yet still some rain came down, we were pelted by ice and the clouds tortured us at sunset. Together with Stephan Steinkeller we managed a long and productive day, climbing the first half of the Cassin Route before traversing into Pressknödel to rig ropes to get me into place to shoot Kurt. After these photos, we rappelled the route and ran for Super Erectissima. The sun was sinking and big black clouds hung on the horizon. Kurt had to climb the lower pitches, fix a rope for me, then I jumared as fast as possible up the overhanging face. Literally, in the final moments of daylight, we made the last images.

Photographing Climbing: A Photographer’s Perspective

Below are some photos along with a photographer perspective (Dan Cam) video of what I saw, and how it all looks to be up on a big alpine north face, first the climbing, then the monkeying about.

Left: Super Erectissima. Right: Pressknödel

Kurt Astner climbing Pressknödel 7c. Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Italian Dolomites

Kurt Astner climbing Pressknödel 7c. Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Italian Dolomites

Kurt Astner lowering off the wildly steep Cima Ovest. Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Italian Dolomites

Lassoing Kurt Astner to reel him into the wall

Kurt Astner climbing Super Erectissima 8a+. Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Italian Dolomites

Kurt Astner climbing Super Erectissima 8a+. Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Italian Dolomites

This page is cross posted with our Professional Photography site’s Blog : To see more images, please visit PatitucciPhoto

:::   Many thanks to Kurt Astner’s climbing sponsors   :::

Mountain biking beneath the Geisler Group

Dolomites Mountain Biking

Italy’s Val Gardena, or Gröden in German, is one of Italy’s most famous ski destinations. But it is certainly not just for skiing, and it is only Italy by location – for this is a special valley where the look & feel is much closer to its more Germanic northern neighbors. Here, the Dolomiti are the Dolomiten – you will see and hear more German and the local Ladin than Italian, yet the food and overall flavor is distinctly that of Italy – it is the best of all worlds. Amongst it all, the Val Gardena is rapidly becoming a premier destination for mountain biking.

Seems the valley’s Tourism Offices, recognizing the value that mountain bike tourism brings, have started making the region very friendly to knobby tire athletes. An abundance of trails, mountain huts, ski lifts for those not wanting to ride so much uphill, and some of the most stunning scenery in the entire Dolomites makes the area truly worthy of a visit. And so we have started to explore and can now confirm, superb.

Where to Go in Val Gardena?

Between the villages of Selva and Ortisei (Wolkenstein and St. Ulrich) are countless hotels, and this is a great place to basecamp. Lifts run from this end of the valley up to Seceda, Alpe di Siusi and Col Reiser – all key access points for trails. For a quiet, car free location, look into staying up on the Alpe di Siusi (Seiseralm) itself.

When to Go to Val Gardena?

June – early October, although June might still be wet and snowy depending on the spring, and August could be so full of tourists you will be better off leaving your bike in the valley and walking with everyone else. August, in my opinion, is not the month to see the Dolomites if a peaceful mountain experience is desired.

Biking and Hiking in the Val Gardena

Time to be honest… the mountain biking in the Dolomites is great, but with the massive trail system, a plethora of options, and loads of dirt roads thrown into the mix, the first time visitor is going to be overwhelmed and likely thinking, “Hey, I saw all these great photos of beautiful trails, but where, and which, are they?” We have had the good fortune of being shown by locals the best trails to ride, and so for the visitor, I would suggest doing the same – getting a mountain bike guide. It will save time and insure the best experience, not to mention prevent excessive bike carrying and pushing.

Alpe di Siusi and sunset on the Sassolungo

This is not the website for detailed route descriptions and GPS coordinates. Our goal is to inspire a visit to the area and provide some services information for the next step. But, as mentioned above, key riding areas for the Val Gardena are:

Alpe di Siusi (Seiseralm) including the traverse around to the Sella Pass via the Citta di Sassi (dirt roads). The entire high plateau provides moderate and brilliant mountain biking tours with incredible views to the Sassolungo (Langkofel). Monte Pana is a good starting point.

Col Raiser – the entire upper plateau around the Rifugio Firenze (Regensburger Hut). Either ride up or take the gondola from near Selva (Wolkenstein).

Seceda – From Ortisei (St. Ulrich), take the Seceda gondola only to the mid-station, exit and ride dirt roads and trails to the Rifugio Rasciesa (Raschotz Hut) then the breathtaking path to Rifugio Brogles (Brogles Hut).

Mountain biking above Col Reiser in the Val Gardena

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WARNING: This is a very popular hiking destination as well and the trails need to be shared. There is a proposal to restrict mountain bikes to dirt roads only within the Dolomites – we don’t want to lose our trail access. Ride with respect.

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Hiking & Peak Bagging in the Dolomites Val Gardena

Mountain biking can be limiting in what it allows you access to in the very rugged, complicated Dolomites. One of our favorite things to do to take advantage of all the un-rideable terrain is to pedal in to a hut, lock the bikes, swap cycling for running shoes, and head up the big peaks. A few key ones to put on the list are the Montijela (via Selva and Rifugio Firenze), the Sasso Piatto (via Alpe di Siusi) for its position & endless views and of course the gem, the Sas Rigais’ Via Ferrata – a big, committing undertaking (Guide recommended- see below).

Recommended Val Gardena / Gröden Services

Mountain Biking Guides : DolomiteBiking.com – our closest friends, the very one’s who showed us around. Locals know best.

Tour Operator Service : Holimites.com - specializing in active, mountain sport visits to the Dolomites

Mountain Guides : Alberto De Giuli |  Marcello Cominetti |  Francesco Tremolada take your pick, all superb

Tourism Office : Val Gardena Tourism

Bike Shop for Info & Rentals : Dolomiti Adventures

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Val Gardena Cycling Events

The Sellaronda Hero is probably the highlight for mountain biking. An absolutely brutal course of 82km with 4200 meters of climbing – touted as Europe’s hardest mountain bike race.

The Sellaronda Bike Day: while not just for mountain bikers, but all cyclists, this is a special day each summer where the Dolomites roads are closed to cars throughout the famous Sellaronda loop. Bikes only = paradise. 16,000 cyclists make their way to the region for this day.

The Brogles Hut

Mountain biking above Col Reiser in the Val Gardena

Have you been to Val Gardena? We would love to hear your experience – please use the Comments section on this post to share your thoughts – thanks.

After three full years making photos and playing in the Italian Dolomites, we realized we have a visual archive that goes deep with memories and experiences.

As professional photographers, we want to present the Dolomites in one gallery, sixteen of our biggest and best images that truly reveal what the Dolomites have to offer. Many of these images have already been shown off, but together in this group they are meant to bring it all together, the fun and beauty to be had while visiting this region. Enjoy, pass it along, and let us know what you think.

> click > 16 BIG DOLOMITE PHOTOS < click <

For a complete Gallery of our images from the Stage, visit: 2010 Plan de Corones Time Trail

Thomas Voeckler, always at 100%, always fun to watch. Proud.

Alexandre Vinokourov; Love him or hate him, the guy goes for it.

Cadel Evans. Class Act.

David Arroyo proudly defended his pink jersey ...and bike

Alberto Contador in the Maglia Rosa during the Plan de Corones Time Trial in the 2008 Giro d'Italia

Cycling Photos from the iPhone

DolomiteSport posts have been thin lately. Ski season is over so my attention has turned from backcountry skiing each day to getting my cycling fitness to where it should be. A sore butt, poor form and rainy weather makes for rather dull stories. So I take time for myself, train, and see if anything comes to mind before the summer crazy season.

Today it did. With the Giro starting this afternoon I was particularly enthusiastic about the bike. During my ride I made an iPhone photo from high above the Val Aurina of the agricultural fields far below – then, as I pedaled uphill I quickly applied an effect to the photo that I thought would add to it. And so it came to me, all these little scenes I run across while on the bike, for 20+ years now, countless beautiful scenes, have always remained in my head, but now with the iPhone and onboard camera I can snap pics and share what I see. Hours each day, sitting there looking around, one is bound to witness some special things. Or, just capture special feelings that perhaps only another cyclist can appreciate. Not everyone gets the whole bike obsession thing so maybe this will help explain what it is we cyclists love; life slowed down to our own speed, the feeling of fitness, power when needed, and the aesthetic movement – all these things, beautiful.

Therefore, I thought to make a post with a collection of favorite photos from life on the bike. For me, this is pure joy, combining what I love. As a professional photographer, using a big, bulky pro camera is my life, (for photos like Contador, right). The iPhone is freedom, always on hand, and in some ways the most creative and challenging with all the many apps for effects.

A Gallery will go up on the DolomiteSport Facebook Page called “Life from the Bike” that I will add photos to while on the go – others can do the same, let’s have a look at some moments as seen from the bike.

And the Giro d’Italia……  Predictions anyone?

1. Cadel Evans  |  2. Vino  |   3. Sastre

Today's photo that inspired the post. The Val Aurina from Acereto, Italy

Jos Van Aert on the Sella Pass, Italian Dolomites

Spring on the Michaelskreuz, Udliginswil, Switzerland

Huts vs. Camping

“But one doesn’t really camp in the Dolomites…”.

I knew further protest could jeopordize work for a favorite client, instead I listened, “But for the shoot we need camping, we want to see that kind of ski tour, no huts”.

The PatitucciPhoto workplace

“No huts?” The pain was lessened by the fact that the huts are actually closed this time of year so camping would not include any windblown scent of Penne all’Arrabbiata. “Ok, let’s do it.” But my next thought was, “With whom are we going to do it?” Italians don’t camp in their own mountains, and with snow on the ground, I had some work to do.

Enter Alberto De Giuli (aka BG, Bloody Gorgeous): BG, “Sure, when do we go?” Me, “Really!?” BG, “Ya, let’s do it, and I know the spot”. Me, “We need someone else, another guy.” …”My friend Andrea will join us”. This was too easy, something was wrong.

Enter Stress: The weather forecast for our shoot days went from sun, to snow. I considered canceling. Then, with 48 hours to go it turned to iffy.

Enter Volcano: Let’s not forget the eruption and a little change in the wind direction that put Europe under an ash fallout warning. More stress.

Enter Good Fortune: The morning we were to start was crystal clear and cold with ash free blue skies. As if made to order, 10cm of fresh snow covered the Dolomites. Our approach was track free, things were looking good. With the huts closed, less people were venturing into the mountains, our determination was going to pay off. A little piece of the Dolomites would be our own.

Smartwool Review

This is our third year shooting advertising for Smartwool. Early on the Marketing Boss saw Janine and I as photographers with whom he would like to build a relationship. Rather than hire us for a shoot to see how it went, he had the vision of building a relationship where together we developed a style for the brand. It wasn’t a one off, it was a multi-year commitment. For all involved it has been great.

Camping in the Dolomites

But, there is the case of my stubborn willingness to try wool. For this, I am teased and taunted. Janine is a long time fan while I have been committed to synthetics. Finally, this last December we received a size-able box of Smartwool goodies as a gift. I dug in, liked what I saw, and implemented wool into my wardrobe. I told Smartwool I would review the stuff, but that I would do it with an honest voice.

Briefly, I like it. A lot. And the fashion & function conscious Italians? “Bello”, was repeated over and over. But, the Gear Review will have to wait and be part 2 of this little tale.

Smartwool Consensus: Andrea & Alberto say "Thumbs Up"

Andrea Gabrielli skiing powder

Enter an Admission: NOT being in a hut was fantastic. It all came back to me, my roots, how it all started, that feeling of being out and not on any program. Melting snow, sleeping on ice, being cold, the wind, everything frozen… well ya, it does kind of suck. But this sort of experience tends to come with lots of laughter, the people make it, they always do. BG was, as always, brilliant fun. And his friend Andrea was equally as fun – all this made for a great time. For two days it was how it all started, Janine and I living in a tent, charging around the mountains, making photos of friends.

And with this realization came another; As much as I love using huts, they don’t belong everywhere. There is something about the freedom and that little added hardship which completes the mountain experience (but not all the time). California’s Sierra Nevada come to mind. I have been engaged in a friendly debate regarding this subject with several close friends back in my home mountains. I am throwing in the towel. While planning a month climbing in the Sierra later this year with Janine and Alberto, I am finding myself increasingly excited to get into the backcountry and on our own (BG, …more of the same minus the snow).

Pasta dinner - of course, it's Italy

Alpine start to make the summit for sunrise

Andrea and Alberto bootpacking the last bit to the summit

Sunrise made better with volcanic ash in the Dolomites

Andrea Gabrielli skiing in the Italian Dolomites

Kurt Astner balancing on a third class ridge while climbing the Zillertal's Wildspitze

Oskar Irsara trail running beneath the walls of the Sella Group, Italian Dolomites

Andreas Irsara and Janine Patitucci hiking in a downpour, Iceland

Andreas Irsara and Dan Patitucci trail running

PatitucciPhoto

Ecco le foto dalla gara Tour de Sas 2010

For the participants of this morning’s Tour de Sas ski rando race in the Italian Dolomites, part of the Coppa Dolomiti, on what was a greatly modified course due to extremely high avalanche risk, these photos are for you. I will post more, with captions later, now… I am off to my own ski rando race in Cortina.

Per i partecipanti alla gara di sci alpinismo “Tour de Sas”, tenutasi questa mattina su un percorso decisamente modificato a causa di alto rischio valanghe: queste foto sono per voi. Ne pubblicherò altre complete di didascalia, adesso però… esco per la mia di gara di sci alpinismo a Cortina.

click here> 2010 Tour de Sas Photos <clicca qui

This is why the course was modified, avalanches everywhere

One of the Italian Dolomites most idyllic settings, Santa Croce in Alta Badia

I had the great pleasure of discovering that my close friend and Mountain Guide, Alberto De Giuli, was booked for five days of work with two North Americans who discovered the opportunity of a Dolomite trip after finding this website and getting inspired to have a look at the Dolomites. Alberto was with them at a nearby hut so Brandyn and I set off to meet them for a ski and dinner at the Fanes Hut. For me, huge rewards come from showing the Dolomites and Zillertal Mountains to people – and especially to see them marvel as I have at what I feel is the most beautiful and culturally perfect place I have seen on this earth.

Brandyn Roark Gray climbing the Zillertal Alpen's Hörnspitze

Ski touring the Dolomites Cresta Bianca

Alberto De Giuli scores a 10 with his Ski Roll

Dolomites Ski Touring with the Tre Cime di Lavaredo behind

The Fanes Hut, Italian Dolomites

Interior of the Fanes Hut. Yes, it is in the backcountry

The Fanes Hut kitchen

Alberto De Giuli with some very happy visitors

It’s a cliche for a reason: “The best camera is the one you have with you”.

Right. In the age of iPhones and Photo Apps, you not only have a camera always at the ready, you have some very useful tools to make the images look the way you want them to look. Get to know your applications then think ahead and you can have some very cool results.

As athletes ourselves, we cannot always have a camera with us, but it is likely that we’ll have a mobile phone onboard. Thus, the extensive collection of cycling, or from the bike, shots. What I like about all of these images is that they are real; rush ahead and snap a frame as friends go by. These are true images of what we see while living our lives, not as photographers but as athletes or travelers.

All of these images were made with an iPhone and all effects were from various apps within the phone itself. We’d love to hear which is your favorite and why – thanks.

While training in Tuscany with my friend Andreas Irsara, he rode ahead on these dirt roads we were riding and snapped this photo of me with my own phone. It is one of my all time favorites. Well done Andreas, you out shot the pro!

During the same trip to Tuscany, I made this image literally while pedaling by. I knew I wanted the square, old timey effect, so I centered the group of trees so as to be able to crop later.

Janine and I on one of our countless days out mountain biking near Cortina d’Ampezzo. The Tilt Shift effect does a great job of miniaturizing the scene. You have to practice to learn when it will work and when it will not.

Andreas and I were waiting for Janine to shoot some landscape images while on a trip to Iceland.

Janine made this photo of me in the Eastern Sierra Nevada as I was riding up to meet her after she had gone for a trail run. I like the depth in the image behind me while it maintains a snapshot feel.

While riding with four Dutch friends in the Dolomites, I was frantically trying to get something exactly like this, from the bike, to show the drama of what you see while road riding in the Italian Dolomites.

Andreas Irsara mountain biking in the Alta Badia while we were scouting a video location. When we returned a week later, a huge bench had been built right where he is riding.

A Tuscan hilltop town photo made right from my bike saddle. I think Tuscany truly was made for the camera.

I love the spontaneity of this image of Janine while in Pienza, Italy

We were in India for the big news

India… It would have been a shame to have missed this one

Shot from my road bike on the dreamy, car-less roads of the Chianti Region of Italy

Late in the fall a group of friends did a huge mountain bike ride in the Dolomites, this was from a small summit we rode to the top of with endless views of the range.

This photo was one of the first I ever made with the iPhone. I was on a long mountain bike ride alone in the Dolomites and stopped at a hut to eat something when this Dohle landed on my handlebars. It is said that these mountain birds are spirits of people lost in the mountains. It hung around for awhile as if to say hello.

The Camera Apps that we use are:

Photogene

Tilt Shift Gen

Camera Bag

Photoshop Mobile

Genius

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