Hiking

Hiking, trekking and backpacking are all very popular in the Italian Dolomites

Climbing All California 14er | Part 3

by dolomitesport.

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Dan Patitucci on the Shepherd Pass Trail

Mt. Tyndall

Clif Bar #4 and it's only 8 a.m.

With our new found enthusiasm for trail running, Mt. Tyndall was the perfect testing ground for a truly big day. While the peak does have a steep northeast face with some real climbing, all the routes were closed for Bighorn Sheep grazing. This left the long, slabby northwest face as the alternative. But first the run in, 12 miles up and over Shepherd Pass – then Mt. Tyndall for 9000 vertical feet of gain.

Our day started at 3 a.m. as we decided we did not want to look at the distances that would separate us from our goal. We chose to run Tyndall carrying little more than numerous Clif Bars, camera and water. Our decision proved wise as the day was long and our knees began a protest while descending the trail.
Tyndall is a triangular peak hidden behind its more famous neighbor, the bulky Mt. Williamson. Our preferred line was the North Rib, a 3rd class scramble on slabs piled with rubble.
Tyndall is a mountain overshadowed by its neighbor, seldom visited by anyone other than 14er baggers and yet has an amazing view in all directions but east. Its remoteness and isolated position give it a sense of being a bit more wild than other Sierra areas we visited. While we initially looked forward to it the least, it is one of the first we remember when we look back on our season.

Mt. Tyndall

Mt. Williamson

Mt. Williamson is at time closed for Bighorn Sheep grazing – skipped.

Split Mountain

The southernmost 14,000 foot peak of the Palisade Crest differs in many ways from its northerly neighbors. Rather than the typical granite of the Sierra, Split is composed of metamorphic rock of far less quality than the surrounding igneous variety.
Named for its appearance, the summit pinnacle is split in two, cleaved by a couloir that rises from bottom to top of the mountain itself.
In this couloir sits one of the Sierra’s longest ice climbs, and our objective.
Earlier in the summer Janine and I had also run into to climb Split via it’s walk up roue from the East Side. But it was the couloir that had caught my attention and I knew I had to try it.
On Thanksgiving Day my best friend Mark Leffler and I found ourselves climbing up the first pitches of the clear water ice draining from the base. A snow ramp led from the ice to a steep bulge in the couloir. A chimney on the left side exited on slabs covered in spindrift. With nightmare quality rock refusing to accept pro of any sort, Mark decided to venture onto the slab in the hopes of finding something better. Something better turned out to be worse than the rotten chimney. After desperately searching for something that did not crumble under the weight of an ice axe, Leffler opted for the down climb and a rapid exit out of the spindrift avalanching couloir.
Luckily, several hundred feet north of the couloir is another gulley though lower angled and filled with snow. This one allowed us access to the north ridge and a quick scramble to the summit.

White Mountain

We found driving the dirt roads to the parking lot more difficult than the “climb” to the summit of White Mountain. With a variety of research work done on the mountain, White has roads crisscrossing its upper slopes. The summit path is actually a jeep trail that ends at the small summit hut.
The terrain is nothing like the Sierra, rather it is a blank and richly earth toned landscape seemingly void of life. Yet there is an entirely different ecosystem in the Whites. Bighorn Sheep and wild horses still roam the high plains, cactus can be found as ground cover and of course there are the famous Bristlecone Pines. Believed to possibly be the world’s oldest living things, the Bristlecones are passed on the drive to the parking area for the summit hike.
White may best be done as the last peak so as to look across to the Sierra and recall all the places visited and all the moments experienced. We sat out the cold afternoon of a late fall day on the summit of White Mountain and recalled all that had happened during our time in the mountains.

Janine Patitucci running out from White Mountain, behind

It turns out it was not about the climbs, or the individual peaks or even the places. Rather, it was about the experience of the project as a whole, and the friends we shared it with.
Our lives changed as a result of getting to the tops of all these peaks, committing to such a project set us on our path which has become a career doing such things. It is not overly difficult or complicated to get to any one summit, but it is something to experience them and let them teach you things previously unknown about yourself. That is the beauty of being a climber who plays in the mountains.

Logistics and Issues

Backcountry permits are required for all of California’s 14ers excluding White Mountain. For all but the Palisade and Whitney regions, permits are easily obtained at the local USFS Ranger Stations in Bishop, Lone Pine and Big Pine.
Whitney and the Palisades are a different story.
Unless you know the exact dates you wish to climb Whitney months in advance, you’ll have to apply for permits the day before your desired entry date. This means being at the Lone Pine Ranger Station at 11am sharp the day before your approach. There, you’ll stand in line as part of a lottery for the unclaimed permits and walk in registrations. You may or may not receive a permit, in which case you will have to try again the next day.
This is the only option unless you receive a permit when permits are issued the previous spring. Hardly convenient for road tripping climbers.
However, with permit in hand, you’ll be legal to stay at your destination for up to 14 days. The Rangers, it seems, prefer to protect the trailhead more than the backcountry camping areas.
Luckily, we won the lottery our first day, and scratching our heads at the non-sense of the system, we headed for the portal with our permission slips to enter public lands.

Mountain Guides

Sierra Mountain Center : Longtime California and Sierra climber and UIAGM Guide SP Parker manages one of the Sierra’s most experienced guiding services. Running into SP in the Sierra became such a common occurrence that summer that we were forced to become great, and now “old”, friends.

Mountain guides are an excellent option for those new to the area or for those less experienced climbing in serious mountain terrain.

Rating: 5.0/5 (2 votes cast)

Climbing All California 14er | Part 2

Oct 22nd, 2009

by dolomitesport.

3 comments

Jay Bettencourt on Mt. Russell's Startrekkin' 5.10a

Trail running into Mt. Langley

Climbing California 14ers

With seven 14ers down and seven to go, we had options; rock climbing in the Whitney group or try one of the long car to car endeavors. We decided to do the Sierra’s southernmost 14er, Mt. Langley, deal with the huge distance to and from, and then go to Whitney.
And for this we opted to put our fitness to the test and try this new “mountain running” idea. Going lighter yet, with just a hydration pack and running clothes, we left the car in the dark, huffed and puffed to the summit, and were back enjoying beers kept frosty in a creek by early afternoon.
The athlete in me took note of this style of moving in the mountains. Lots of ground covered, little pack weight, committed to finishing, goal oriented – I like it.

Mt. Langley

The furthest south 14er in the state, Mt. Langley seems more closely related to the desert than the alpine peaks further north. Approached from the south, the peak is little more than a very long walk. With the addition of the 3rd class East South-East Ridge, the day does have some variety and a loop that can be done from the ridge’s starting point.
Mt. Langley was our favorite run of the season. Beginning at over 9,000 feet, the overall elevation gain is fairly minor and all comes at the base of the actual peak, 10 miles from the car. The Cottonwood Lakes Trail is a surprisingly lush approach to the distant dry peaks.
The descent is fast and fun screeing down towards Old Army Pass and Cottonwood Lakes where we napped on a boulder along the lakeshore before the knee friendly trail back to the car.

The Whitney Region

For me, the lower 48‘s tallest peak had always held a sort of ugly connotation. I imagined a peak lacking all of what I love about climbing in the mountains; freedom, a pristine environment and a difficult to obtain summit. In order to enjoy the Whitney region during the summer months it is best to turn off any idea of what the High Sierra should be like. The Mt. Whitney experience is like no other.
The first step is in acquiring the necessary permits (see Logistics, part 3). Next comes the approach which shares the same trail as the hiking route for the first section. Thankfully, climbers veer off from the masses with their mandatory neon permits hanging like permission slips on field tripping grammar school kids. Rather than following the highway-like trail along the South Fork of Lone Pine Creek, climbers follow the more primitive North Fork drainage to the cirque beneath the Whitney massif. There, at Iceberg Lake, climbers establish base camp from which to climb any of a number of the area’s offerings.

The Mt. Whitney Group

Janine Patitucci on Whitney's East Buttress

Our own experience at Iceberg was initially one of shock. Unlike the usual quiet camps in the mountains, this was bustling with climbers and guided groups.
However, as climbers will be climbers, we soon found some old friends and were quick to make new ones. Unlike the hordes on the other side of the crest who were shuffling along on their way to an “I Climbed Mt. Whitney” shirt, the climbers in camp were the usual mix of dirt bags and misfits with whom we felt right at home.

Mt. Whitney

Two climbing routes on Whitney see the vast majority of all the traffic; The East Face and the East Buttress. 5.4 and 5.8 respectively, it is hard to say which is better. The East face is more unique while the East Buttress offers better climbing. We did both several times during our stay at Iceberg and enjoyed them more each time.

Our first trip up Whitney was via the East Buttress and started late in the day. Numerous pitches of quality climbing leads to some blocky scrambling before the summit. The closer we got to the top, the more our silence was giving way to muffled voices.
Once on the summit, we were greeted with applause from the masses as it seemed to them we had come from the abyss. We counted over 50 people, 23 on cell phones, the rest on two way radios to friends still on trail or camp.
For our following summit visits, we found it best to put all climbing gear away below the summit so as to pull onto the top and blend in.

Though somewhat anticlimactic to a great day of climbing, the summit of Mt. Whitney is special. We outlasted the crowd and discovered that in almost every case, they must leave by late afternoon so as to make it to the car at a reasonable hour. Suddenly we were alone. What was like a city park scene an hour before had magically transformed back to an alpine Sierra summit. In our solitude, we enjoyed the day’s final light and relished the fact that we are climbers and able to move about in the mountains free of schedule.
With headlamps at the ready, we descended the well worn Mountaineers Route back to camp and the greetings of friends.

Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden on the Tower Traverse, 5.4 East Face of Mt. Whitney

Dan Patitucci on the Fresh Air Traverse, 5.4. East Face of Mt. Whitney

Descending Whitney's Mountaineer's Route

Iceberg Lake Camp beneath Mt. Whitney, day

Iceberg Lake Camp beneath Mt. Whitney, night

Each morning's view from Iceberg Lake

Mt. Russell. Many, many lines

Mt. Russell

From Basecamp, one can only see the top third of Mt. Russell’s south face rising up from behind a ridge. There is nothing quite like it anywhere in the area, perfectly parallel splitters all terminate on a ledge about 400 feet below the summit. The same splitters that nearly reach the ground hundreds of feet below.
Mt. Russell is the choice climbers peak of all the 14ers. Numerous quality routes litter the south and west walls, all of superb quality. The two standout features on Russell are the Fishhook Arete and the Mithral Dihedral, both 5.9, both 5 star.
For us, Mt. Russell was our first real climbing of the 14er project, it would also be the first day where we rappelled for our lives to escape a thunderstorm.

Four pitches into the Mithral Dihedral it began. Skipping the whole poor weather break in period, our puffy white clouds went straight to tempest. Within minutes it was snowing hard enough to obscure our visio and rendered it impossible to look up for all the snow tumbling down the face. With Janine and I’s belay rigged for shooting photos, and our friends still climbing up to us, we were forced to spend some time dealing with getting out of the nightmare we found oursleves in. To compound our problems, lightning and thunder became as one and the air literally began to sizzle and smell a bit odd. I do however recall thinking, “If we survive this, we’ll have some good pics”.

Finally, Mark Leffler pulled into our anchor after a heroic battle throwing handjams into a soaking wet corner. Survival instincts went into effect, the first of several rappel anchors was built, and we began our retreat. After some exciting rappels we were back on the ground, soaked and with new respect for puffy white clouds.

Mark Leffler gunning it for the anchors in snowfall and lightening

Mark Leffler in the Mithral Dihedral

A genuine look of concern on Dan Patitucci's face

Dave Miller on Mt. Russell's Startrekkin' 5.10a

Jeff Angermann on the Mithral Dihedral 5.9

The following day we returned to retrieve our gear and complete the Mithral Dihedral. In sunny, warm conditions we once again started up the golden corner, slotting perfect hand jams for 400 feet before pulling out of the vertical corner on rails and huge incut edges.
From the end of the corner, about 400 feet of pleasant 4th class climbing separates you from the summit and time to make mental notes of all the other Russell routes you plan to return for.

Mt. Muir

From Iceberg Lake, Mt Muir is obscured from sight behind the massive towers of the Whitney Crest. Sitting as a bump on the crest a mile south of Whitney’s summit, Muir meets the Sierra’s definition of an independent peak and is therefore considered a 14er. Oddly, the areas most spectacular peak, the Keeler Needle, is not considered an independent peak. While its summit elevation is 14,000 feet, its position is not far enough away from the summit of neighboring Mt. Whitney to give it 14er status – whatever. Muir however, does. Sad that the iconic character of the Sierra Nevada has such an unremarkable peak named after him.
From Iceberg lake we crossed the Pinnacle Ridge separating the Whitney cirque from the Muir cirque. There, we gained the East Ridge of Mt. Muir and followed its contrived and confusing line of 4th class to the top. From the summit we could peer 100 feet beneath us to the traffic pattern on the Whitney Trail. Muir receives little attention even though the summit is literally a few minutes from the trail. Viewed from the trail on the west side it is barely noticed, and as a result the summit goers pass by without regard.

With the Palisades and Whitney Group now complete – so too was our technical rock climbing. Mt. Tyndall’s climbing routes were closed for Bighorn Sheep grazing as was all of Mt. Williamson. Split Mountain holds an ice climb that would be a route for the late fall, and of course we were saving White Mountain for last so as to look out upon the Sierra with all new memories.

Part 3 will wrap things up with the balance of peaks as well as some Logistical Info and Mountain Guide tips

Rating: 5.0/5 (1 vote cast)

Dolomite Alta Via 1 Mountain Hut Impressions

Oct 21st, 2009

by dolomitesport.

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A trend is developing. Each time we ask someone from the USA to contribute to DolomiteSport a consistent topic seems to emerge; the mountain huts, their decadence and convenience.

This fall we helped Sue Johnston and Chris Scott make plans for hiking the Alta Via 1. When it was finished they kindly put together a story of their primary impression. The topic; the mountain hut.

Chris and Sue come from outside Ventura, California. Sue is a two time time winner of Colorado’s Hardrock Ultra as well as numerous other 100 miles races. She also holds the speed record for the John Muir Trail. More info about Sue can be read at Salomon Running or her blog’s Dolomite entry, RunSueRun.

Thanks to Sue Johnston and Chris Scott for the text below.

Rifugio = Mountain Hut. “Mountain Hut” usually conjures up a one room, rough hewn, log cabin hidden deep in the wilderness below a dense canopy, offering brief respite to the wandering hiker in search of flat and dry ground, a roof over one’s head, perhaps escape from persistent mosquitoes, yet maybe a mouse or two for company. After you’ve heated your dinner and stretched your sleeping bag over the floor, and night has stolen daylight, only your headlamp reminds you of dimension within the hut’s walls.

The reality of rifugi (plural of “hut”) in the Dolomites is quite the opposite. Think: “this is the best aid station I’ve ever visited!” and then repeat that experience about every 10K, or in some cases, within spitting distance of the next. Now envision the Dolomite mountain hut offering commanding views in almost every direction. Welcome to Italy!

Rifugi dot the trail at seemingly designed intervals. The proximity of one rifugio to the next encourages you to pack light – you’ll need only your choice of clothing for the length of your trek. But what about food? Since the staff at each rifugio spends its entire season there, they’ll be well fed. If they’re well fed, you’ll be well fed, too. This equates to a full menu of delightful treats.

Complementing the menu is beer on tap and a well-stocked bar, further enhanced by local grappas. For lack of clear translation, grappa is Italian for moonshine, only here in various flavors and colors. As our new Italian friend suggested, “take a hit, roll the grappa across your teeth with your tongue, then breathe in quickly through bared teeth. You’ll get snockered quicker!” It almost worked.

Most rifugi also offer hotel-equivalent accommodations, as well; the loftier and more remote rifugi perhaps bunk beds. On our five day hike of Alta Via 1, we survived one bunk bed group snorefest, the other nights in private rooms listening to just our own snoring. Truthfully, even the snorefest wasn’t problematic – we were tired enough from each day’s hike that we could have slept through the finale of the 1812 Overture. Full stomachs from dinner created a lethargy that made sleep easy; we justified the bulging stomachs as investment for the next day’s hike.

Up early for breakfast. Salami and cheese panini for later on the trail. Visit another rifugio down trail for more coffee. Stop every 100 meters to take in another spectacular, breathtaking vista. Enjoy an afternoon break for more coffee and snacks. Then press on to make it to the day’s end rifugio in time for a warm shower, happy hour, dinner, and another night’s sleep between sheets.

Lather, rinse, repeat… for as many days as you can afford and are willing to enjoy. The tease is to linger at any one rifugio, for each designs to keep you in the clutches of endless hospitality. Of course, avoid the tease, as more of the same awaits you at the next rifugio. When (not if) you decide to run/hike the Alta Via 1, anticipate the rifugi pampering – you’ll re-define your standards for ultras’ aid station fare!! Hope you enjoyed reading our impressions of the Alta Via 1.

Rating: 5.0/5 (2 votes cast)

Mountain Hut Culture

Sep 24th, 2009

by dolomitesport.

14 comments

Switzerland's Konkordia Hut perched above Europe's largest glacier.

Mountain Huts and the European Mountain Culture

Undoubtedly, one of the greatest pleasures of living in the European mountains is the huts. Anyone that follows this site, or our Twitter feed, has seen a trend; the use of huts and all the amazing experiences that they allow.

I am still not so sure Americans understand the concept. From people seeking info on the Dolomites, I am continually asked via email, “Do we need to bring sleeping bags, tents, food?”

The answer is an emphatic, “NO!”

The Rothorn Hut, Zermatt, Switzerland

The European huts are basically hotels in the mountains. Depending on just where they are located, they only vary from comfortable to extremely comfortable. In the higher alpine zones of Switzerland and France they are more basic, and food and water a bit more pricey thanks to having to be delivered via helicopter. But still, they are staffed to provide a four course dinner, beer & wine, breakfast and a bed complete with blankets. You need not carry anything unless you prefer your own silk sleeping sack. In other words, your backpack will be tiny and very light. You can purchase day food at the huts as well, typically chocolates, cookies, and occasionally a sandwich. You are very much in the “backcountry” but you are staying in staffed huts.

In the lower elevation mountains, like the Dolomites, most huts are literally hotels complete with power, espresso machines, full bars, restaurants, private rooms with baths, and so on. You should do a little research to see what the huts offer on your itinerary as not all are so complete, but most are. The private rooms being the one missing element of some huts.

Perhaps a bit too much grappa?

More than being refuges for mountain excursions (backcountry skiing, hiking, climbing, etc…), they are a social element of the European mountain culture. It is entirely normal to hear of a party at a hut, or friends simply planning an overnight so as to enjoy a massive meal, or a dance party, or a fullmoon outing, or just a dinner out that requires an approach.

In the Alta Badia there is a hut that has Wednesday night dance parties all winter. A one hour ski tour gets you there, then change the clothes, eat a pizza and get on the dance floor in your F1′s. Ski out at 3 a.m. Fun. Or, in the summer, mountain bike all day in the Dolomites, watch the sun set from a hut deck while drinking a wheat beer, enjoy five courses of Italian goodness, then descend on out under headlamps on trails. For the winter version, replace mountain bike with skis.

Huts may not be for everybody, and of course they can be avoided altogether. Occasionally I do miss sleeping beneath the stars, but that option is always available.

Being an American I am still in awe of this system, it simply works, it brings people together, and it bonds the mountain culture that runs deep in the society. Perhaps the huts are what allow for such a rich culture of mountain people in Europe, such a vast base of people who visit the mountains. The huts make it easy to go to the mountains, and they allow for an entirely unique experience of socializing.

Would the mountain huts work in the US?

Or first, we Americans must ask ourselves if the huts would ever be allowed to exist in the US? Do you want huts in the mountains of America? Sound off with our Comments. Thanks.

Most stunning upon arrival, the Vignette Hut on the Haute Route. Switzerland

Most impressive, Austria's Jamtal Hut in the Silvretta Group

Most precarious. The Mittelegi Hut high on the Eiger, the North Wall to the right

Pick a hut, any hut...

Best deck, the Fanes Hut, Dolomites

Switzerland's Hollandia Hut in the Berner Oberland

The Trient Hut, Switzerland. The Haute Route

The Locatelli Hut, Dolomites

The Courvecle Hut, Chamonix

Backcountry food

Hut dorm room

The Valsorey Hut, olfactory overload, Haute Route.

The Valsorey Hut, Haute Route

The Chanrion Hut, Haute Route, Switzerland

The gear room, Cosmique Hut, Chamonix

Party time after the Biancograt. Marco e Rosa Hut, Switzerland

The Konkordia Hut winter room

Rating: 5.0/5 (4 votes cast)

GoreTex Review

Sep 1st, 2009

by dolomitesport.

3 comments

Does GoreTex really work?

I’ll admit to some nerdy tendencies and let it be known that I keep a pretty detailed training and “fun log”. It keeps me informed about my training while providing some motivation to fill in each day’s square with what I did, training time, intensity, etc… Things have seemed pretty busy this year in terms of being out, so I looked. Sure enough, of our 243 days this year, I have been in the mountains for 220 of them. This is consistent with the last 20 years of my life. LOTS of time in the mountains.

This seems a good foundation for figuring out what gear really work and what does not. Our Gear Reviews have been tremendously popular and the traffic I see on these posts inspires me to keep the Gear Review momentum going. So, in the coming entries I will be randomly choosing items we use that function perfectly, or little things I have discovered that make life working/playing in the mountains run smoothly. Gear is obviously really important for my work and comfort so careful thought needs to go into decisions about what to use.

Pouring rain and high exertion. Gore-Tex works.

1st up, GoreTex.

If you would have asked me, “What sort of rain jacket do you use?” three years ago, I would have mentioned whatever soft shell, water resistant, alpine jacket I was using at the time. I am from California, rain was something I either didn’t experience much of or I quickly passed through on my way to higher elevations to where it was snowing. “Crunchy” shells were not something I needed, I was spoiled.

But now, living in Europe, I get to experience rain. And after having just spent two weeks in Iceland I came to realize Gore-Tex works and it works quite well. We were actually doing a photo shoot for Gore and were provided with numerous pairs of boots and jackets from all the different companies they partner with; from Mammut to Adidas to Scott to La Sportiva.

When it rains in Iceland it is often a fine spray which is far more soaking than a downpour. We were in it each day, wrapped in GoreTex from head to toe, hiking steep peaks and exerting energy within the material. Bone dry is a safe assessment of what we found inside our shells. In fact it worked so well that being in the rain was a non-issue, it was just what we did. Ironically, this was the point of the photos and it turned out to be true.

What one wears underneath the GoreTex membrane is very important – don’t wear too much and do wear the right materials. For us, we all wore thin, synthetic base layers with a mid-weight fleece of our choice on top. We stayed warm and dry. For socks, wool seems superior and the consensus is that Smartwool makes the best. It is amazing that Smartwool socks do not smell.

Back home now in the Dolomites, I have incorporated a thin Gore Bike Wear jacket into my wardrobe, it goes on every outing, both running and mountain biking. With zip off sleeves to turn it into a vest, it is undoubtedly one of the best pieces I own.

Another small item I have found to be fantastic is the Gore windstopper headband. I have long been a fan of headbands as they seem to regulate the body temp best. But the windstop material’s overlooked feature is the quiet that it provides. It dampens the sound of the aggravating wind, put it on and enjoy quiet much like noise dampening headphones on an airplane. Also available in beanie hats - must haves in my opinion.

Finally, footwear. For me, GoreTex on my feet is a mixed blessing. I have hot feet, really hot. So, unless it is cold out, my feet don’t want to be wrapped in any additional membrane. In the cold and wet of Iceland, GoreTex boots worked absolutely perfectly and we trudged through mud, ankle deep creeks and had water pouring off our legs onto the tops of the boots. “Bone dry” is the right description for inside the boot.

Gaiters and Gore-Tex running shoes - good combo

I have also done a running tour in Iceland where we ran through the same conditions. I used GoreTex shoes for this as well and found that they worked fine. But being low top, if it is seriously wet, water still gets in and they end up being soaked. To me, running shoes are the exception, if it is pouring rain and you are charging through puddles, you’ll get soaked regardless. They are like GoreTex shorts – why? If you need running shoes to stay dry in mildly wet weather and mud, then GoreTex is going to do the job. But for boots in the wet – definitely go GoreTex.

As photographers we are lucky to be given a lot of clothing to shoot photos of. Gore gave us a lot of their running and cycling stuff under the brand name Gore but not made with GoreTex. Gore Bike Wear and Gore Running Wear are a bit confusing – they are made with GoreTex, right? WRONG. It is absolutely beautifully designed performance clothing. I would consider it to be some of the best pure sport clothing I have used. The name is a bit confusing, we associate Gore with GoreTex, but in the case of the clothing lines it is not all made with the GoreTex material itself.

To summarize… I have had to learn how to work in the rain without it affecting me. The fact that I must always carry camera gear means I have a heavy pack, which forces me to figure out what gear is lightest yet still works. Gore has proven to be a great product to rely on so I can work, train and enjoy being in the mountains no matter what the weather is doing.

Gore is a company I am impressed with, not only for what they make, but for how happy their employees are and for their corporate philosophies. Malcom Gladwell’s best seller, “The Tipping Point” revealed why they make for an interesting company. PatitucciPhoto and DolomiteSport are in no way working with Gore, we simply appreciate quality – when we find it, we’ll promote it and review it.

Rating: 5.0/5 (1 vote cast)

Pfunderer Höhenweg

Aug 21st, 2009

by dolomitesport.

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The Pfunderer Hohenweg

The Pfunderer Höhenweg Hiking Tour

Late in the fall of 2008, we found ourselves on one of the best ridge line trails we had ever seen. We were trail running the Sud Tirol’s Pfunderer Höhenweg in the Zillertal Alpen above Bruneck and wanted to see a summit we know locals frequent for post work exercise, the Sambock. Once on top, the trail dropping off the north side of the summit came into view and for as far as our eyes could see, stayed right on the high ridge line until it disappeared into some higher mountains.

High above Bruneck with views to the Marmolada and the Dolomites

“What is this?” Maps would need consulting. It turns out the trail is the Pfunderer Höhenweg Hiking Tour (Alta Via di Fundres in Italian) and stretches from Sterzing (Vipiteno in Italian) to Bruneck (Brunico). While traditionally done as a 5-6 day hiking tour with huts available each night, we decided to see if the whole trail was as good as the first section for running. In June 2009 we set out with our best friend Andreas Irsara carrying only small hydration packs to run its approximate 75 kilometers – but in 3 days.

20090613-_mg_7137

Starting in Bruneck, we once again climbed to the summit of the Sambock where the trail becomes mostly runnable for the entire first day. Sticking to the same ridgeline we had seen the year before, the trail goes up and over numerous peaks while providing unobscured views to both the Dolomites in the south and the high alpine, glacier covered Zillertal Alpen peaks to the north. The trail continues like this for several kilometers before climbing a small pass, La Portella, and then a drop to the Tiefrastenhutte (Rifugio Lago della Pausa). This would traditionally be a stopping point and for us it was, but only for a pasta, we would continue on to the Edelrauthutte.

Dinnertime in the Edelrauthutte

The next section of trail gets into some higher elevation and we discovered that the reason we were seeing no one on the trail was because much of it was snow covered. The winter of 2009 was a massive one and all the passes from here forward were still buried. But there are advantages to this – direct lines and fast descents. Cold, soaked feet seem a small price to pay.

Once at the Edelrauthutte we were greeted by Anton Weissteiner, quite possibly the kindest hut warden I have ever had the pleasure of meeting. We were his guests for the night, and having been open only one day, we were able to take advantage of his enthusiasm for the coming season. A four course meal satisfied our 33 kilometer hunger. Seeing how disgustingly full we were, Anton saw fit to provide us with multiple glasses of grappa to aid in digestion, it certainly aided in sleeping.

The Edelrauthutte

The next morning we set out on a modified route. Anton warned us of too much snow to cross a pass where ladders must be climbed. But a variation to the trail was no problem and we were on our way to the Bodenalm Hut and a quick late morning strudel before once again entering the high, snow covered alpine areas. For us the second day was both roaring hot and ice cold. Dropping down low above the Pfundertal had us on south facing slopes and sweating. From here we climbed and climbed until we were on north facing slopes to the pass below the Punta Riva. In a completely white world we began questioning why we were doing this, in running shoes and lycra. Soaked and a bit frozen, we reached the col and were rewarded with a direct, snow covered line to the Brixner Hut 400 meters below. Minutes later, we were drying out and drinking coffee.

Lago Selvaggio, still quite frozen in June

So far the trail, the terrain, and the huts had been perfect. One day remained for our itinerary and it looked to be a different kind of terrain as we would be lower in elevation before dropping to Sterzing. But first more snow covered passes, the Rauhtaljoch is the morning’s climb to 2800 meters, and here we were once again in a white world all the way down to the Lago Selvaggio which was still frozen solid. Luckily all the snow was hard enough for us to stay on top of which actually made for faster speeds. Yet another pass above the lake before an enormous drop to the Simile Mahdalm, a small farmers home which looks deceptively like a hut but is in fact a working farm. And here the Pfunderer Hohenweg began to fall apart. Until this point the trail, while even snow covered, was very obvious. But now the trail became a faint goat path and climbed as steep as any trail I have ever seen. Vertical dirt is not easy to run. But we gained elevation quickly like this and soon were on top of the final pass, the Passo di Trens (Trenserjoch).

The descent to Sterzing

Here, once again the trail is a faint line through grassy terrain. We wondered if anyone actually does this section, the landscape is fantastic and would be a fitting ending to a superb tour, but really, the trail needs some work. Soon we were on the final drop to Sterzing through lush green forests and trails with more traffic. The temperatures were going up and gelato was on our minds.

Overall the Pfunderer Hohenweg gets a B. For running it is perhaps a bit steep in places, but overall very runnable and high quality. For hiking, it is beautiful although there are many other trails a bit more interesting. The area around the Edelrauthutte is the best in terms of mountain environment while the rest of the trail is very indicative of the the lower Zillertal Alpen Group. One thing I certainly realized after doing this trail was that I had seen the area, from the lower slope goat and cow farms to high rocky ridges, to alpine terrain. The huts were superb, the food fantastic and being a point to point, a rewarding journey. The Pfunderer Hohenweg is recommended.

Please please please… If you do the Pfunderer Hohenweg, we’d love a trip report of your own. We have seen a number of Google Searches for the trek come to us, there is not that much info out there on this great trail.