The Sciora Hut sits directly beneath much of the climbing

When Americans think of climbing in Europe, one thing typically comes to mind; limestone. But for climbers visiting Europe who want a little something closer to what they know, and an experience of a lifetime, the Alps also have a massive amount of granite. Chamonix tends to steal the show for showcasing granite, but this summer we went snooping around to some other areas known for long, easy to moderate, granite climbs. Our favorites; Switzerland’s Göschenental and its Bergseeschijen and Salbit groups, which will come in a later DolomiteSport post. First up, the Graubunden Region, specifically the Sciora Group and Piz Badile area above the Val Bregaglia, Switzerland.

The North Ridge of the Piz Badile

This was the second time we had climbed in this region as in 2005 we climbed the famous Piz Badile. Since that visit, we had long wanted to return to see what else lay nearby, but also to return to the magic feeling that this historically rich region offers. Here, only 35km from glitzy St. Moritz is another world; one of silence, traditional ways, a unique dialect of Italian and architecture much the same as centuries past. Driving through Switzerland’s Val Bregaglia, far below the north facing walls of the Sciora group which serves as the Swiss Italian Border, one must decide which to marvel at more, the ancient, intact villages and lifestyle, or the towering granite spires.

The Sasc Fura Hut

Luckily, both get to be experienced. For to visit the Sciora Group means to start from the village of Bondo. Here, one enters the stone walls feeling very much an outsider. Once inside, a walking tour is recommended as a kind of time travel to another era. When you are ready to start the approach to the huts, drive through the village to a payment machine, here you pay to pass on dirt roads to the trailheads far above town.

From the parking area, there is one trail along the river, after a few minutes walking the trail splits, left to the Sciora Hut, right to the Sasc Fura. The Sasc Fura is the standard hut for the Piz Badile’s North Ridge, arguably the finest easy ridge route in all the Alps. For North Face routes, both the Sasc Fura and Sciora Hut are used, although huge amounts of rockfall traversing to the North Face from the Sciora has closed this approach.

Thomy Engl cragging beneath the Sciora Group

Piz Badile North Ridge

If you are doing the Piz Badile North Ridge, 5.6 , be sure to walk the approach from the hut to the route the day before to familiarize yourself with the path as it will be done in the pre-dawn darkness and is a bit of a footrace between climbing parties. You do not want to be stuck behind slow parties on this route. Here, Euro climbing etiquette must be understood. If you are not used to climbing in the Alps on busy routes, get ready for some interesting times. It can either be very aggravating or very entertaining, just don’t let it be too time consuming, you need to be safe and you need to get down. But this is a whole different topic…

The Piz Badile North Ridge, 5.6

The route lives up to its reputation, it is absolutely superb climbing on perfect stone in a stunning setting. We were first to the route the day we did it so had no delays. Our climbing time with some photostops was 4.5 hours. The rack included, draws, cams .5, #1 and #2, a few stoppers, several long slings and double 50M ropes. The route is bolted and if you are comfortable running it out at these grades, draws are enough. The anchors are all BIG rings. Most parties opt to descend south into Italy and figure out how to get back around to the Swiss side using buses or taxis. We chose to rappel the route, which turned out to be slightly slower than the climb, but thanks to great anchors was epic free. We were back at the hut in time for pre-dinner beers.

The Sciora Group

Bouldering out the door of the Sciora Hut

If you are in the area for an extended stay and more moderate routes, you may opt to head over to the Sciora Hut next. The day after climbing the Piz Badile, get up early and walk the two hours to the Sciora Hut. Once at the Sciora mid-morning, you can choose to either go cragging or do a shorter route on the Torre Innominata east of the hut. We walked the hour up to the Innominata, an imposing wall that becomes much friendlier at the base. Here are several classic lines from which to choose; both the Hofmeister Jubilaum (6b/5.10c) and Via di Mezzo (6a+/5.10a/b) are superb routes. The Hofmeister being steeper and more like a Yosemite line and the Via di Mezzo reminiscent of Tuolumne Meadows climbing. 10 quickdraws and a small rack is sufficient. The Hofmeister requires a bit more gear.

Thomy Engl on the Via di Mezzo (6a+), Innominata

Punta Pioda

Next up are some much bigger undertakings. At this point, we lost two days to heavy rain and snow and so did just one more big route, the Punta Pioda’s NW Ridge. This is a very long and uncomplicated 5.6 slab route up a seemingly endless rounded ridge. The climbing was good, the rock solid and the day worthy. We had intended to do the descent off the summit via the Pioda-Dafora Traverse back north to get in some more climbing, but with all the fresh snowfall the north facing gulleys were completely buried and iced up. Once again, we found ourselves with a lot of rappeling, 22 to be exact, the same as the number of pitches, a long day!

Thomy Engl on the Punta Pioda

For the Punta Pioda we took 10 draws, a few slings, a few nuts and double 50M ropes. The route is bolted although with some sizeable gaps. The climbing is mostly much easier than 5.6 with a few standout sections of harder climbing.

The other classic objectives from the Sciora Hut are, to name just a few:

Scioretta : Fuori Ridge (VII+/6c/5.11a) and Direct Variation (VI-/5c/5.8). Quite possibly the line you will look at and want to climb in the group. These are also long and involved routes, not to be taken lightly for length and time.

Ago di Sciora : The West Ridge (V+/5.7). Just a lower section of the main rib before the rock quality drops.

Pizzi Gemelli : Bügeleisen (V/5.7). A super popular classic slab climb up a flawless ridge.

The Punta Pioda (l) and Ago di Sciora (r)

These are but a few popular routes, there are may, many more from which to choose, including the Piz Badile North Face routes, some of the most classic in the Alps.

Val Bregaglia Graubunden Climbing Guidebooks

The Alpine Club Guidebook Series: Bernina and Bregaglia by Lindsey Griffin (English). The definitive guide to the entire region for English speakers and very helpful for deciding which routes to do.

Bergell by Jiri Novak (Czech and German). Helpful as well for deciding where and what to do.

We found the guidebooks in conjunction with online info were great for deciding where to go and getting a rough idea of what we wanted to do. The huts themselves have very detailed and current topos and route info for the entire area. This was the best source for actual detailed info. Show up to the huts ready for anything, decide what to do, then simply draw up your own topo based on what the hut provides for beta – it works perfect.

Hut Phone Numbers

Sasc Fura +41 (0)81 822 1252

Sciora Hut +41 (0)81 822 11 38

Hut reservations are mandatory for overnights, but call in advance, this is a popular area and the huts are small. Like most wardened European mountain huts, the price of entry provides a bed, dinner and breakfast. Snacks, day food, and drinks can also be purchased. Overnight with the two meals is about CHF60.

Summary

Our plan was to climb easy to moderate routes here and we did just that. The climbing itself is straightforward, and thanks to being well bolted, relatively easy route finding is possible. But, this is an alpine arena and the walls are big, therefore so is the potential for problems. While the hut sits below the alpine walls, there is a very real sense of being “out there”, yet once down from climbing, an hour walk returns you to friendly hut keepers, beer, great food, a fun social scene and comfortable beds.

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For about six years we made feeble attempts to get to Norway’s Lyngen Alps. A combination of not really understanding the logistics combined with our timing being off and/or the trip & lodging we wanted being full all added up to putting it off. Finally in March 2011 we made it and happily found it was worth the effort. It is a somewhat confusing area to research, but once there it all becomes clear. Hopefully this post will help make sense of it all prior to a visit.

As usual, our travel plans and itinerary are shaped by photoshoots, this was no exception. We were there to make some specific types of ice climbing photos. While we had always dreamt of the “Stay on a Boat” option, for this trip we needed to stay on land and with a car for mobility. Ice climbing and backcountry skiing were the focus. So, together with our friend, and pro climber, Kurt Astner, off we went.

Google “Lyngen Alps”, “Norway Skiing”, or any other combo of such and you are likely to get the Lyngen Lodge as your top hit. We did, and so we contacted them. It took forever to get a response, and when we finally did it was, “all full, all season”. We began to notice that there really are very few other lodging options with the exception of the Magic Mountain Lodge in Lyngseidet. An email went out, minutes later we had an answer, “available”. We booked and this turned out to be a blessing in disguise.

Lyngseidet from the Magic Mountain Lodge

Getting to the Lyngen Alps is easy; Fly to Norway (Oslo) and connect via another flight to Tromsø, rent a car, drive 2 hours and you are there. The driving part is easy, beautiful, and awe inspiring if it’s during the day. For us it was a white knuckle, pitch black drive through a howling blizzard. Tromsø, being a hip and interesting city is well worth a visit. If you arrive in the evening, consider an overnight stay.

We arrived to the Magic Mountain Lodge at about midnight and were very ready for our long travel day to end. Once there we walked into my dream world. For countless years I have dreamt of running a hotel in a great location that caters to mountain sport athletes – here it was. The couple (Patrik & Henrika) running the show were instantly welcoming, accommodating and new friends.

I asked Patrik for a beer, if possible something local. From behind the bar he pulled out three talls. “These are Macks, the world’s northernmost brewery”. He popped the tabs. “Also the most expensive”, he grinned. Gulp. We sipped, and then we gulped the beers. Superb, but yes damaging to the wallet.

As I always say about so many things, “It is all about the people”. This was never more true than with our stay at Magic Mountain Lodge.

Skiing in the Lyngen Alps

The blessing in disguise turned out to be the location. It always takes a visit to figure out how best to experience a mountain area, and one visit to the Lyngen Alps makes it clear that the best location to base yourself is indeed, the town of Lyngseidet. The fjords, while great, are mightily inconvenient for getting around as the roads take you in and out of every inlet. Of course there is the ferry, but it is time consuming as well, expensive and you must still drive. The primary area to ski in the Lyngen Alps, and the area you will look at and say, “Let’s go there” is directly accessed from the village of Lyngseidet. The Lyngen Lodge is located on the opposite side of the fjord, in much smaller mountains and requires traveling by boat over to the main area for skiing. One reason to stay on the opposite side is simple – the view is superb. But if you want to get up in the morning and go skiing with as little commute as possible, stay in Lyngseidet.

Where snow meets the sea

Another option is to stay on one of the many charter boats. These are large, comfy, liveable boats (small ships in some cases) that travel the fjords and dock or anchor close to the next days ski objective. We saw them everywhere, one day dropping off all 30 skiers on a beach and then heading up on skis behind us. We spoke to the guests and they reported a great time, although the rocking boat made some less than comfortable. Some operations offer much smaller groups for friends with guides. Or, join in on one the big boats and make new friends. Certainly a cool option.

Skiing to the beach from high in the Lyngen Alps

What to expect of the Skiing

Our trip was mid March and we found it to be superb. Two different thoughts seem to exist on when to go. The dead of winter for powder skiing, amazing light, and the likelihood of seeing the Aurora Borealis. Then there is the spring for longer days and still generally great skiing. We found the skiing to be as unique as the overall experience. As the approaches begin at the beach, the first few hundred meters up was often in slop that would put “Sierra cement” to shame. Then suddenly, like a line drawn, it would all change to powder. When it changed to a crust, we were still able to find powder skiing on the right aspect. Depending on where you go, you will start on the beach, skin through a brief forest, pop into alpine terrain and perhaps travel on glaciers on your way to a couloir, summit or high plateau. Your descents often put you right back on the beach – where else do you get to ski to the beach?

Hiring a Mountain Guide

Given that I said skiing in the Lyngen Alps will all make sense once you get there, it will not be a guarantee that you will go to the right places for the best skiing or be tuned into the avalanche conditions. We saw pretty quickly that the avalanche risk can be high in these parts, and that like all mountain areas, the Lyngen Alps have their own set of rules. Our friend Kurt is a UIAGM Guide, and together we discussed and researched each day’s plan. We found good snow and stayed out of trouble. But, we saw the opposite for some visitors. If you are interested in getting a guide, check in with the crew at the Magic Mountain Lodge as we did meet some local UIAGM Guides who would stop in for an evening beer.

Lyngen Alps Ice Climbing 

One of the reasons we were in Norway was to shoot ice climbing with Kurt Astner. Kurt is one of the best ice climbers in the world and a former Italian National Champion. His intention was to seek out new lines and new ice falls that he had heard about through friends. He did just that. If climbing some ice while on a ski trip is your thing, it is certainly possible in this area. I won’t pretend to offer advice, only to say there is a lot of nice, primarily on the east side of the fjords from the Lyngen Alps and easily accessed by car from the ferry at Olderdalen.

Interested to see the images we made, and a video of how we made them? Visit : PatitucciPhoto Norway Ice Climbing.

Kurt Astner on a new line outside Olderdalen, Norway

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Getting there is easily done by flying into Palermo via RyanAir, renting a car and driving 90, surprisingly relaxing, minutes to the village of San Vito lo Capo on the northwest tip of the island. In my mind, Sicily was going to be chaos and a terrifying automobile experience. In fact, it was the opposite. Chaos came later at the produce stand. In the village proper of San Vito, we rented a nice apartment in late March for four people/one week, €250. Hard to beat. Much of the climbing is done within a 10 minute drive from the seaside resort village, a car is convenient although it is possible to walk to some of the more popular crags.

There is a Climbing Guide especially for Sicily and the San Vito info seemed to be pretty much spot on. But, I don’t remember seeing it, or any climbing gear, available in San Vito. Come well stocked. More recently developed areas have topos hanging at the crag, and as is typical of climbers everywhere, word spread quickly about what was worthy of visiting. Seems much of the development has been done by visiting German & Austrian climbers, the same nations providing the vast majority of visitors.

The rock is limestone and comes in all varieties, from tufa stuffed caves, to pocketed walls, slabs, stalactites, and even cracks. Some of the limestone is of such high quality and so compact, it almost appears as granite. Bolts & anchors, thanks to the Germans, are big, bomber and well placed. Overall, it is a place to climb hard and push yourself. And did I mention cappuccinos are still €1?

San Vito lo Capo and Monte Monaco

In the evening, hang at a local restaurant for freshly caught seafood. We discovered Ristorante Agora in the main part of the village and felt there was little reason to go anywhere else. Don’t miss the Insalata di Polipo, Branzino, house made pasta and then for desert, the Ricotta Mandorle. And you thought Italian food was the best…? The Sicilians really do take food to an even higher level.

Of course visiting later than April adds swimming in the clear Mediterranean to the list of to do’s. From many of the crags, this is an option in less than 5 minutes walk.

San Vito lo Capo Climbing Information & Beta

70 meter rope – 18 quickdraws

We were warned about lots of car break ins, we saw no evidence of such, but be warned.

Bring warm clothes for climbing in the caves or shade – it’s surprisingly cool near the water.

Apartments, B&B’s and Hotels are all readily available. Apartments offer the option of cooking, but then really, why would you want to do this?

Season seems to be March – mid June, then again September & October. The locals swore it wasn’t too hot in the summer, but the locals don’t climb.

Evi Gritsch at the Castle of Aragon

Pleasant seaside approach to the Bunker

Christof Ursch on something hard at the Castle of Aragon

Christof giving it all two thumbs up

The end of everyday includes this just before coiling your rope and heading to dinner

Planning to Climb Mt. Whitney Next Summer?

For those headed to Iceberg Lake at the base of Mt. Whitney to climb one of the classic routes, the East Buttress (5.8) or the East Face (5.7) – or even for those just aspiring to do the Mountaineer’s Route (4th class gulley) – here are my thoughts on what to take so as to prevent a backbreaking march from the Whitney Portal.

The North Fork of Lone Pine Creek Trail

The climber’s approach to the massive and beautiful East Face of Mt. Whitney is certainly one of the best hikes anywhere. The reward comes from not only getting to climb Whitney, but to camp at Iceberg Lake at its base. While not an overly difficult approach, the amount of weight on your back might be hugely influential to how you enjoy the day. You’ll leave your car at about 8,300 feet and drop your pack at 12,400 feet. Both the elevation gain, and the elevation itself, will take their toll along the way. And remember, day 2′s agenda includes a trip to 14,495 which for many requires the freshest possible legs and lungs.

I am always a bit surprised to see the towering loads arrive to Iceberg Lake. Usually they sit atop a sweaty, exhausted, hunched over hiker with a pained, yet jubilant to have arrived expression. My take is that, being the Sierra Nevada, there is little reason to take much. Yes, you need the basics, and even the basic set of extras in case the weather gets bad or someone is injured. But, keep life simple (and light) and try to really only take exactly what is required.

Climbing Gear for Mt. Whitney

Here it is, our gear for two nights at Iceberg Lake and two days of climbing, both the East Face and East Buttress. Our trip was at the end of September, the nights were below freezing but the daytime forecast was all sun.

This is what was inside my Deuter Spectra 50 liter pack, but does not include our food bag, government issue poop bags, or the clothes I was wearing – all out of the picture.

BD Megamid tent

MSR Isobutane Stove, Titanium pot, coffee mug

Superlight mountain clothing, including down jacket

Summit pack (Deuter’s Speedlite 15 liter)

MSR Waterfilter (Iodine is lighter still)

BD lantern (luxury item for the long Autumn nights)

Climbing rack, harness, helmet, 10mm rope & shoes (a good pair of sticky rubber approach shoes could replace climbing shoes)

First Aid Kit & Headlamp

MSR Neo Sleeping Pad, a fantastic piece of gear

Ultralight ground cloth

Sleeping Bag; Deuter Exosphere -4 Celsius 550 down

Food: we live on angel hair pasta & pesto, cheese, nuts, dried fruit, energy bars and bagels while in the backcountry.

Total weight with camera gear: 40lbs

The tent is without a doubt a luxury item as well, there are fewer pleasant things to do than sleep under the stars, and few nicer places to do it than the Sierra Nevada.

Another option is to use a Guide Service. Let them carry some of your weight, safely guide you up & down the peak, and even prepare some tasty backcountry cuisine.

The two primary Guide Services of the Eastern Sierra are:

Sierra Mountain Center

Sierra Mountain Guides

Janine's pack weight at the Whitney Portal; 36lbs Meanwhile, Alberto provides a friendly reminder.

Morning winter camp outside the Buttermilks in California's Eastern Sierra

Last spring I made the conscious decision to not let the bike rule my year. Meaning, I did not want to focus on racing a road bike and all the time required to train – I wanted to let my year flow, do whatever sounded good at the time, travel to different places, do a little of everything, and especially to get back to what I used to be most passionate about. Climbing.

Dan Patitucci on Supercrack, Indian Creek, Utah

From 1989 to about 1996 I did little else. It was time spent doing anything but working. Little did I know it was an investment in my future as an athlete, part of the outdoor industry and finally as a professional mountain sport photographer. Time well spent. Later, I mellowed out on the climbing schedule to study photography and figure out exactly what it was I was going to do. Hooking up with Janine established a vision, we committed to being outdoor photographers and once again I was both climbing and shooting climbing.

As our business grew we evolved towards other subjects. But lately, the bug is back, I am ready to climb, or more accurately I am ready to go on a climbing trip. There are few things like it, especially in the States if one knows where to go and how to live; car camping in the Eastern Sierra sage, sleeping beneath the stars on a clear Sierra night, waking up with a wall of granite as your objective. Bliss.

Moonlit camp at Iceberg Lake beneath Mt. Whitney

Ahead of us are six weeks cruising the US; our old playground of the Eastern High Sierra, Indian Creek, Yosemite and finishing up at Smith Rock. What makes this trip extra special is the fact that we are doing it all with Italian friends – the first being Alberto De Giuli, who has never been on US soil. To see my own nation through his eyes will be interesting, he has been entertained by me in his home country, now I get to revisit what is so familiar but once again experience the newness of it all.

First up for Alberto: Acclimating to the art of being a dirtbag American climber. It is nearly impossible to be a true dirtbag in Europe. I have tried to tap into my roots but truly, it seems hopeless as I get more and more civilized with each road trip. Just the other night we bivvied in our car at the Tre Cime before climbing, but having eaten lunch that day at a three star hotel followed by dinner at a Michelin Two Star, Brunello buzz and all, this hardly qualified as “dirtbagging” it. As we settled into our car for the night we watched some nearby Germans cooking on their camp stove, Janine posed the question, “I wonder what they’re having for dinner?” At this we roared, but soon we realized that we truly do miss some of the simpler things.

In the coming weeks we hope to share some of what we are up to, check back here for stories, reports and of course loads of photos.

Some things have really changed: Not much film cannister labeling these days

Other things haven't changed at all: Cannot wait to drink Peet's in the Sierra backcountry

Thankfully, the days of living on the road in an '84 VW are long over

Good memories from an epic: Bedside first aid kit & climbing gear

Off we go... YeeHAW

Dolomites Climbing: Pressknödel & Super Erectissima

The Dolomites Tre Cime di Lavaredo are undoubtedly one of the most beautiful settings in what are arguably the world’s most beautiful mountains. The north faces of these towering walls are home to world famous steep rock climbing, rich in history and tradition.

Professional Italian climber and UIAGM Mountain Guide Kurt Astner has been busy freeing both old aid lines as well as putting up some routes of his own on the dizzying steep walls of the Cima Ovest and Cima Grande. In 2008, I joined him on Jean Couzy (8a+) and photographed the difficult moves through the wildly overhanging route’s mid section.

Kurt Astner climbing Jean-Couzy, 8a+ at the Italian Dolomites Tre Cime di Lavaredo

In the summer of 2010 he established an all new route, Pressknödel (7c), with fellow UIAGM Mountain Guide and professional climber Christoph Hainz. The line is on the Cima Ovest’s right side, starting left of the classic Cassin Route. In the same summer he repeated a Czech team’s work, the all free 8a+ Super Erectissima.

Kurt again asked me to join him on the two routes, but time and time again poor August weather delayed the work. We even managed to get up on the routes in preparation for the photo work only to have thick cloud cover, rain and ice force us down. Finally, in late August, the high class climbing magazine Vertical became involved and renewed our motivation with a deadline for a story on Kurt’s climbing.

On September 4 we were able to photograph both routes in decent weather. Yet still some rain came down, we were pelted by ice and the clouds tortured us at sunset. Together with Stephan Steinkeller we managed a long and productive day, climbing the first half of the Cassin Route before traversing into Pressknödel to rig ropes to get me into place to shoot Kurt. After these photos, we rappelled the route and ran for Super Erectissima. The sun was sinking and big black clouds hung on the horizon. Kurt had to climb the lower pitches, fix a rope for me, then I jumared as fast as possible up the overhanging face. Literally, in the final moments of daylight, we made the last images.

Photographing Climbing: A Photographer’s Perspective

Below are some photos along with a photographer perspective (Dan Cam) video of what I saw, and how it all looks to be up on a big alpine north face, first the climbing, then the monkeying about.

Left: Super Erectissima. Right: Pressknödel

Kurt Astner climbing Pressknödel 7c. Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Italian Dolomites

Kurt Astner climbing Pressknödel 7c. Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Italian Dolomites

Kurt Astner lowering off the wildly steep Cima Ovest. Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Italian Dolomites

Lassoing Kurt Astner to reel him into the wall

Kurt Astner climbing Super Erectissima 8a+. Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Italian Dolomites

Kurt Astner climbing Super Erectissima 8a+. Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Italian Dolomites

This page is cross posted with our Professional Photography site’s Blog : To see more images, please visit PatitucciPhoto

:::   Many thanks to Kurt Astner’s climbing sponsors   :::

Paklenica National Park's Anica Kuk, 350 meters of perfect rock

Visiting Croatia?

Stable weather, friendly locals, good food, inexpensive, easy access, Mediterranean swimming, flawless limestone – lots of bolts, abundant routes, huts… this is Croatia’s Paklenica National Park. A little piece of heaven. Yet while most European climbing destinations are somewhat packed, Paklenica is like a step into the past, mellow and relaxed. Imagine taking part in the Italian film Il Postino but with climbing as the subject matter.

Swimming in Paklenica's many pools

Accessed from the sleepy seaside town of Starigrad, Paklenica is an oasis in a somewhat dry and inhospitable landscape. Here temperatures soar into the 30′s (90′s) creating more desire to soak in the Adriatic than to go climbing. In fact climbing seems an almost unlikely activity upon arriving. But, enter the park, just a few kilometers from Starigrad, and the entire scene undergoes a rapid change thanks to a deep canyon, lush forest and flowing small river. Paradise found. On our first morning we weren’t so sure about Paklenica, by evening, we were in love.

Starigrad is not the postcard seaside village of Croatia, there is no colorful bay, no fishing boats in a small harbor and no cute, quant little village. It is touristy but in an old school, traditional, authentic village kind of way. It is not expensive, camping is about €6/person, hotels top out at about €45/person, restaurant prices are reminiscent of Europe 10 years back. But here too you can stroll town with a gelato, get seafood fresh from the fishing boats, sit in a bar with other climbers and, best of all, easily pedal your bike to the crag where a small store provides gelato and drinks just 3 minutes from the start of the climbing walls.

Topping out on Anica Kuk

Paklenica National Park itself is all about big, limestone walls, deep canyons, hikes to 1800 meter peaks from sea level, and a lush forest with a hut system. The star attraction being Anica Kuk, a 350 meter wall of impeccable limestone with over 100 multi pitch routes of all grades. As one enters the park, the canyon narrows and immediately both sides form perfect climbing walls with countless routes from 5a to 8a. For the beginner-intermediate climber, it is paradise as there is an abundance of routes from 5a-6b, all well bolted with bomber anchors. It is very user friendly.

Starigrad Lodging

As you enter town it will become immediately obvious that lodging will not be a problem. There are many campgrounds, hotels and private rooms in homes (look for the word Sobe in Croatian). The campgrounds are very user friendly with, quite possibly, the cleanest bathrooms I have seen. We stayed at the seaside campground on the south end of town, Paklenica Camping, our car was a 4 second walk from swimming in the Adriatic, there is a bar and Bancomat in camp and the staff is super friendly and informative.

We also checked into the Hotel Vicko Villa for a few nights; 4 star, free Wi-Fi, great breakfast, super friendly, fantastic seaside position. €45/person.

Getting Around Starigrad and Paklenica

A bike is the absolute ideal form of transportation. We parked our car and never touched it for a week. From the center of Starigrad to the climbing is only 15 minutes on the bike, slightly uphill, but not steep. In the evening, it is a refreshing, fantastic end to the day as you coast into town and the gelato stand. At the road’s end in the Park there is a bike storage area.

Paklenica National Park Logistics & Climbing Info

> There is one primary entrance to the Park on the south end of Starigrad. Each day you must pay to enter, it is 40 Kuna per person (€5.50). Be sure to ask about multiple day passes.

> There is a small store within the park, 5 minutes from the parking and right at the beginning of the climbing area. A well with drinking water is found on the trailside about 10 minutes uphill from the main climbing area.

Big gear, or little person?

> Near the Park entrance from the main road is a climbing shop with all the necessities.

> Key Climbing Website for organizing a trip, visiting and climbing in Paklenica is Climb Croatia. There is a good Climbing Guidebook readily available throughout Starigrad, recommended.

> Climbing: The climbing is sport, with big, new bolts. Anchors are single massive rings or chains. For the easiest classic route on Anica Kuk, the 5c Mosoraski,some crack gear may be appreciated depending on your level and comfort running it out. A 60 meter rope is pretty much mandatory. Climbing style is classic limestone; pockets, tufa, greasy if a popular route, but always well equipped and on perfect rock. Some routes have small tags with name & grade at the bottom, but most do not. A guidebook is helpful.

> Language: Many locals speak English, but perfect German and Italian are also spoken.

What else to do in Starigrad?

Exploring Starigrad's coastline

> Cycling: Cruise the coastline north and check out some of the the sleepy little villages. Croatian coastal roads are an ideal combination of perfect asphalt, stunning scenery and no cars. A trail system is being developed that parallels the coastline on the edge of the park, we didn’t do it, but info is available at the tourist office.

> Hiking: Get an early start and hike up to the highest peaks. Sea level to 1760 meters, you’ll cross numerous zones en route to some great views. The Paklenica Hut, about 2 hours from the parking lot, offers lodging. 20 minutes below is also a small hut providing food and drink during the day. And 10 minutes further above is the small, incredibly friendly Ivancev Dom, also offering lodging.

> Take an evening trip to Zadar (45 minutes in car) and stroll the ancient town. Do not miss the seaside walk along the city walls where you will find a series of man made blow holes in the stone that create music based on the waves frequency as they hit the wall.

> Stop at a roadside fruit & veggie stand and stock up on tomatoes (consistently the best) and especially the figs – the sweetest, most flavorful we have ever had.

The Paklenica Hut

Ivancev Dom, Paklenica National Park

When to visit Paklenica?

I had mixed reports on this one (some said all year, others the spring and fall) but basically decided: April – early July then again September & October. We went in mid June and the temps were certainly high in town, but okay for climbing in the shade. The mid-day descent off Anica Kuk was something I wouldn’t be in a hurry to repeat. Thankfully, the many pools in the canyon’s river provide perfect swimming. And of course having a bath-like Mediterranean is quite wonderful.

Summary

Croatia is a special place, while very European, it is a bit of a step into something more gentle, less hectic. Everything is there as in Europe, but so too something from the past that gives it a unique feeling. It is a place one can spend a great deal of time and not feel like life is rushing by.

And the climbing… it is not so common that I have said, “That was one of the best routes I have ever done.” but in Paklenica… over and over again throughout the day.

As we only scratched the surface of things to do, in addition to the well written Lonely Planet Croatia guidebook, these websites are helpful:

Paklenica National Park |  Croatia Travel |  Find Croatia

Finally, Dubrovnik is a few hours south and undoubtedly one of Europe’s greatest destinations, it is well worth 2-3 days all on it’s own. Do not miss it.

Paklenica local

left to right: The Eiger, Mönch, Jungfrau

Alpine Climbing in the Bernese Oberland

The Jungfraujoch train from Grindelwald

This trip is all about alpine climbing three moderate routes on famous mountains while being in one of the world’s most dramatic landscapes. All easily approached via an unforgettable train ride.

Undoubtedly, one of man’s most impressive mountain infrastructure achievements is the Jungfraujoch Train. Starting in the idyllic Swiss village of Grindelwald, directly beneath the Eiger Nordwand, the Jungfraujochbahn is a cog train that first climbs to Kleine Scheidegg before entering a tunnel in the Eiger and literally climbing through the mountain to a station at 3454 meters. There, passengers disembark into a tourism venue like no other. The Station is built into a rock buttress at the head of the Aletschgletscher, Europe’s longest glacier which stretches below the station for 23 km.

The view down to Grindelwald from the Kleine Scheidegg

The station is a combination viewing platform, souvenir shop, ice palace and of course food court, complete with noodle stall and Indian cuisine to satisfy the vast numbers of Asian tourists. But for the alpine climber, the attraction is the Sphinx Tunnel which is an exit to the glaciers. To access many of the 4000 meter alpine peaks of the Berner Oberland, one must first descend to their bases from the Jungfrau Station.

The Mönchs Hut

Their are countless peaks to climb or ski in Switzerland’s Bernese Oberland, but a popular trip is to take the train up, stay in the nearby Mönchsjoch Hut, and climb the famous Trilogy of the Mönch, Jungfrau and Eiger. This is a 4-5 day trip that will have you in the alpine world the entire time. If the weather is solid for the three routes, they may all be done back to back before returning to the Valley on the Jungfrau Train. To score with the weather means a bit of luck. As luck would have it, we had that period in 2003 and did the Trilogy in one push. We have also been there a number of other times for quick in and outs, the potential is like the terrain, massive. For American alpine climbers seeking moderate routes in extreme terrain, this is the trip of a lifetime if you want a European goal to strive for.

Climbing the Mönch's final corniced ridge to the summit

The Experience – the oddities of which will surely have you curious.

Howie & Karen Schwartz on the Jungfrau

Summary

Day 1 : Train to Jungfraujoch, exit station, climb the Mönch (4107 meters) on the way to the Mönchs Hut.

Day 2 : Climb the Jungfrau (4158 meters) from the Mönchs Hut.

Day 3 : Back to the Station, descend train, exit train at the Eismeer Station within the Eiger (you’ll have to inform the conductor), climb south face of the Eiger to the Mittellegi Ridge and the Mittellegi Hut.

Day 4 : Climb the Eiger’s Mittellegi Ridge to the summit (3970 meters), descend south to the Mönchs Hut and then to the Jungraujoch Station make last train to Grindelwald.

Day 5 : Relax in Grindelwald, eat a rösti and drink a beer while staring up at the peaks you just climbed.

Now let me preface the actual story by saying that this project, while not difficult, is extraordinarily serious. The weather in the Bernese Oberland can go from pleasant to severe in minutes and there are extremely dangerous objective hazards in the climbing (glacier issues, route finding, and loose rock). I highly recommend a UIAGM Mountain Guide if you are not entirely accustomed to climbing in the Alps and in this terrain. More Guide info at the end of the post.

Climbers on the Jungfrau

Dan & Janine relaxing on the Mönchs Hut deck

Climbing the Eiger’s Mittellegi Ridge

What makes this experience so special is that you are on a kind of mini, and somewhat luxurious, expedition. While it is only 4 days, it is busy with go-go-go and heavy on logistics. Of course it is possible to extend the trip with extra hut nights, especially for the return to the Mönchs Hut. Instead of hurrying to make last train, one can stay the night. However, multiple nights up so high with possible sleep issues may have you longing for lower elevations.

Janine taking note of the Hotel Rathole availability

The Mönch and the Jungfrau are fairly straightforward – I won’t go into details as there is better info available. But, the Eiger’s Mittellegi Ridge is a story all on its own for the process to get up on it and down is like no other I have seen. You may not be doing the Nordwand, but the experience of the Eiger is still quite unique when doing the Mittellegi.

The first step to get to the Mittellegi Hut is to get off the Jungfraujoch Train at the Eismeer Station. This is a stop inside the Eiger. Here you will step off the train into the darkness and the train will roll away leaving only the climbers behind. A large steel door leads to a steeply descending passageway. With headlamps on we entered. Ahead was a blinding light which became a sunlit glacier as we got closer. The tunnel ends at a balcony complete with cute Swiss railing. Here you will be in the world of ice, seracs and steep, loose rock.

The Mittellegi Hut. The summit is behind.

The beta given to us was to rope & helmet up – then run like hell across a big open section of glacier beneath the south face of the Eiger. The reason is immediately obvious as gravity is working its magic on the rotting rock and melting ice. Once to the other side, the climb begins to the actual ridge and the precariously perched hut.

Paraglider getting up to the level of the Mittellegi Hut

The Mittellegi Ridge is rated alpine D, with sections of rock to about 5.4. Nothing is mentioned about the approach to the hut. My memory is climbing hard rock with mountain boots and a pack on. I could be wrong, but I seem to remember a significant length of 5.7 laybacking, made desperate in my La Sportiva Nupstes. I also remember no belay anchor for the second (rumor has it that this has been remedied) and most clear of all, thinking that reversing this whole thing in poor weather would be hellish. But we did it. After passing the technical section we diagonaled into the hut on rising sloping ledge systems made dicey with loose rock and bullet like flying stones. The hut was a welcome end to a stressful and odd day.

The Mittellegi Hut itself is a wonder as it is perched literally right on the ridge of the Eiger. Look north and you look straight down the Nordwand. It is a location you will never forget. Rising immediately from its balcony is the Mittellegi Ridge that ascends into a pyramid of black stone, the Eiger’s summit.

At dinner we sat with an old Swiss couple. When I say old I mean in their early 70′s. They amazed Janine and I with the fact that they have been climbing the Eiger every year for a very long time. They amazed us even more as they quickly dropped us in the following morning’s darkness. Such is the European mountain culture.

Climbers on the Mittellegi Ridge

The route itself is relatively simple. Route finding means following the crest, or the climbers in front of you, or in some areas, the fat, fixed ropes. If the weather is good it is low stress climbing, the views are unmatched, and the only real concern is to make that last train. But the climb, as we found out, is only part of the day. The descent is complicated, long and slow if you do not know it. It was somewhere during the descent that stress to make the train kicked in.

While staying at the Mönchs Hut we had seen two Italian climbers stumble in just before dinner. They collapsed at our table and stared like zombies at their plates. I asked what they had done. “Mittellegi”, was all they got out. I just remember thinking that they either epic’ed in a big way or were way out of shape.

But I was starting to get it as we descended the Eiger, it is huge. Thankfully we did not epic and we not only made last train, we made it in time to get a bite to eat in the station before boarding.

Once back in Grindelwald, there are few more amazing views to be had from a town, especially views up to mountains that contain some of our greatest memories.

The view up to the Eiger from Grindelwald

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Where to eat in Grindelwald

Don’t miss great food and ambience at Cafe und Mehr (C&M) : sit out on the deck and take in the views of where you have been.

Need an English speaking Mountain Guide?

Cosley Houston Alpine Guides are Americans based in Chamonix and know the Alps like locals.

Howie Schwartz of Sierra Mountain Guides works in the Swiss Alps and Berner Oberland each summer.

Swiss Alpine Huts

The Mittellegi Hut and Mönchs Hut : Like all huts, a reservation is mandatory before arrival. Huts are about CHF60/night and includes a bed, dinner and breakfast. A great rate. But, be prepared for some expensive water and miscellaneous food & drink as it must all be flown in by helicopter.

The Evolution Traverse

As professional photographers, our launch pad was shooting climbing photos. Rock & Ice and Climbing Magazine were our bread and butter. We got to go climbing, take some snaps, and get them to the magazines. At that time I was a climber first, photographer second and the idea of getting paid to make climbing photos was too good to be true. Later, a decent number of assignments began coming from them as well. One that was especially fun was in 2002, Matt Samet’s Best Ridge Traverses of America article for Climbing Magazine.

David Melkonian climbing Mt. Mendel on the Evolution Traverse

Matt came out to Bishop, stayed with us, and together with Jim Karn we all went and traversed the Palisade Crest in the Sierra Nevada in a day. A long day. After, Jim wisely went home leaving Matt behind for his next ridge, the Evolution Traverse. For whatever reason I opted out in the hopes of doing it later in the season.

I remember watching Matt pack up, or rather unpack to go up. He basically took nothing. His idea was simply to hike in, climb the enormity that is the Evolution Traverse, and walk back out. With his few PowerGels, Matt drove up to the trail head to begin his long march in over Lamarck Col. Late the next day, at home, we received a phone call from someone sounding like the mentally ill. It was Matt, and it was apparent he needed assistance. Mutterings about car keys and his whereabouts was all I got.

I sped up to the Lake Sabrina trail head, which is not where he should have been, and found the mess that was Matt Samet. His formerly brand new approach shoes were tattered scraps of nylon and rubber. His hands looked liked he had tried to floss the teeth of a living Great White shark while his lips were so swollen it appeared as if he mouthed off to Mike Tyson. He had successfully climbed the entire Evolution Traverse.

Part of the tale was this: Once finished he succumbed to a nap. Upon waking he watched as a Pika ran off with something shiny, his car key. He picked up his camera bag with freshly gnawed hole in the mesh side pocket and started for North Lake, a stinking, filthy, tattered mess. Figuring him for a fellow redneck, he convinced some Bishop locals to drive him down so he might make a phone call, to me.

Some years before, Peter Croft, in a period of massive energy, discovered this ridge line high above Evolution Valley. His trained eye caught the fact that it seemed to continue uninterrupted for several miles south of Mt. Mendel. He decided to investigate and in doing so had it confirmed that it went for much longer than he thought before hooking around and ending at Mt. Huxley. At Grade VI, 5.9, about 8 miles long, often above 13,000 feet/4000 meters, and with nearly 10,000 feet/3000 meters of gain, the Evolution Traverse was created.

David Melkonian climbing Mt. Mendel early on the Evolution Traverse

Word of it spread, Peter had some media attention and one quote stuck with me, “Normally, you do a route, get to the summit – the prettiest place of all – and then you just go back down. But when you do a ridge traverse, it’s like being on a summit all day long.” That was the hook, and as I was in my own squirt of Sierra energy, I knew I would have to do it.

The Evolution Traverse

Once Matt could speak again I got the full beta. The route was confirmed as brilliant, I started making plans by first finding someone to do it with. David Melkonian was the guy.

After this I went up to Canada and climbed the famous Lotus Flower Tower, one of North America’s 50 Classics. And it was truly that, classic. An unforgettable trip.

David Melkonian on the Evolution Traverse

But the Evolution Traverse was in my head, once home David and I began planning. We decided to take a rope in case we chose to rappel some of the harder, loose down climbing from Darwin’s summit, but also in case we really needed it for the climbing. We also decided to start late in the day and bivvy on Mt. Mendel’s summit so as to give us the entire next day to wrap things up. This was also because David was a paramedic and got off work in the late morning. As a longtime Sierra Nevada climber, and more experienced than I doing long Sierra days, I had a great partner.

We began climbing from the Darwin Bench in the late afternoon. Getting to the top of Mendel actually required quite a lot of real climbing, but always on solid rock. We moved quickly and efficiently, soloing all but one short, steep step.

Once on the summit, we prepped for the night before being wowed by a special Sierra Nevada sunset. After the grand finale we settled in to spend a very cold night at 13,710 feet/4179 meters.

Mt. Mendel Summit Sunset

Mt. Mendel Bivouac

The next day is a blur of climbing sideways. We did rap from the summit of Darwin, then spent hours moving along the ridge line, negotiating towers and gendarmes. It was the best climbing I have ever done, soloing on good rock with easy, aesthetic movement. We were often silent, just in our own heads dealing with the task we had committed to.

I vividly remember that last bit of real climbing as we arrived to the summit of the final peak. We had done it. Exhaustion like that is a wonderful luxury. We began the descent in the early darkness and arrived to the lakes of Evolution Basin in the pitch black. There, like animals, we just laid down beneath the stars on a warm Sierra night.

I fought sleep so as to savor that moment. A month before I had climbed one of the finest long free routes in the world, The Lotus Tower. But to me, personally, nothing could compare to the experience I had on the Evolution Traverse, and still nothing does.

Walking out through the Evolution Basin the morning after, some of the ridge line is above

As professional mountain sport photographers, we have this massive database of photos that I must work within each day. But for us it is far more than a collection of work images, it is a collection of memories. The nature of the way we work is to photograph our experiences, not just document others. As a result, we have a visual reminder of our lives and all the things we do.

In the last ten years we have been on countless trips; climbing, skiing, running and hiking. So, which experiences stand out amongst them all, and why? Finally, can our trips inspire others to go on their own?

What are the criteria for a favorite trip? Beauty, Emotion, Landscape, Travel, Difficulty, Effort and of course the friends we share it all with. The envelope please…

In no special order, according to Dan & Janine Patitucci, the Top 5 Mountain Sport Trips are :

1. The Ortler Ski Tour, Italy

2. Hiking & Running Iceland's Laugavegur Tour

3. Trail Running the Tour du Mont Blanc. France, Italy, Switzerland

4. Climbing the Evolution Traverse, Sierra Nevada, California

5. Alpine Climbing the Berner Oberland Region's three classics: Monch, Jungfrau, Eiger. Switzerland

Now for the fun part, or parts 1 – 5, telling each story of each experience, with photos. Stay tuned.