Ortler Ski Tour | Italy

The Ortler Ski Tour is all about decadence

What makes a trip stand out above others? Why do a few experiences immediately come to mind when looking back on our greatest memories? For me, when I asked this question of myself getting ready for this 5 part series on our favorite trips, the Ortler Tour in Italy was right there.

The Gran Zebru / König Spitze

We had done the Haute Route twice, the Berner Oberland twice and countless other Euro grand and mini tours. Setting out on the Ortler was just another week in the big mountains, afterall, it didn’t have the famous name recognition of some of the other big tours.

It became quickly apparent that we were entering a special place when I first laid eyes on the Gran Zebru, or Königspitze in German. It did help that it had just dumped a hefty quantity of winter powder in early April, but still, the terrain was noticeably big, dramatic and unlike other big mountains, loaded with couloirs and natural ski lines.

And we hadn’t even discovered the huts at this point, we were still in the tram getting to the start.

Skiing the Cevedale

From Sölden we rode lifts to the end of the line before hopping over a small ridge line and a drop to the Martello Valley. From the bottom of the descent we climbed a long and gradual valley to the Rifugio Martello. Here we had it confirmed, we love Italy and the Huts are the best.

Private rooms, bath, a menu for dinner, coffee machine, and full bar were the norm. Decadence we weren’t used to. Things were looking up and it was only day 1.

The next day we climbed the Cevedale, arguably the most classic peak to do while on the tour. The Cevedale proved good, but a thick fog prevented full appreciation. However, the seemingly hour long descent did catch our attention and was made even better when we arrived at our home hut for the next few days, the Rifugio Branca.

View from the Branca Hut

Once again we greeted and shown to our private rooms by kind Italian hut keepers, not grumpy, bitter versions found elsewhere. The Branca Hut is centrally located in the Ortler Group and for many parties serves as a kind of basecamp. We opted for a three night stay before moving on. It seemed a wise choice as right outside the windows was enough terrain for a lifetime. We were home.

At this point the Ortler was beginning to prove itself as our favorite tour. The Haute Route is an amazing journey through some of the most dramatic mountain terrain in the world. The skiing can be great, but really the Haute Route is all about getting from point A (Chamonix) to point B (Zermatt). In that window of time there are countless little unpleasant items that may shut you, and your Haute Route, down. As a result, the Haute Route has its own energy. Go go go. Skiers are most concerned with succeeding each day. The Ortler, being a loop, or in and out, or really whatever you so desire, is all about fun – or, all about skiing.

Headed to Punta San Matteo

Being at the same hut, especially one so cush as the Branca, for three days, and skiing as you please – this was like being on holiday. Stress free, lighter yet packs, joining in with new friends met at the hut and of course the Italian food and drink. Paradise. One even stops caring about getting weather days and can enjoy a day spent socializing over a bottle of wine and a pasta.

Right out the door of the Rifugio Pizzini

After four days of this life, it was time to move on to the next hut, the Rifugio Pizzini. From the Branca it is a quick ski down and then skin up alongside a small creek to the Pizzini. Here we were met by a large Bernese, the smell of coffee and a large open face behind the hut who’s corn crop was in dire need of harvest. We petted the dog, threw back several coffees and went farming until dinner.

Here, I discovered Claudio Compagnoni, the owner and undoubtedly kindest, most fun hut keeper in Europe. At most huts you are a client, some you are a guest, but at the Pizzini you are home. The hut was renovated in 2002 and the result is a modern, comfortable building made for big, partying groups of fun seeking mountain athletes.

Our original plan was to stay one night before moving on yet again, but the hut proved impossible to leave. From the Pizzini we spent three days exploring the terrain around the hut including the mighty Gran Zebru.

One issue with beginning your tour on the Sölden side and ending it with a visit to the Pizzini, is that you must get back to Sölden. The out requires an extremely steep climb to the Rifugio Casati before a complicated glacier descent back to Sölden. There is a lot of room for error on the climb, and on the descent. Here, local knowledge is key. Should you get stuck at the Pizzini (really not such a bad prospect, I could spend a winter there) and really need to get out, you will need to head west to Santa Caterina, then Livigno, and figure out an extremely complicated transit system back around to the other side, which could literally take two days. The rule, don’t get stuck at the Pizzini if you have a flight to catch.

Skiing the glacier descent of Punta San Matteo

Luckily, our week on the Ortler proved uneventful. So good was the trip that we went straight back the following year, however conditions were not so nice and we spent the bulk of our time inside. Yet still, the trip was a great one and kept the Ortler as “Best Of” in the ski tour category.

So, what does make a trip stand out above all the others like it? Good weather and snow certainly helps, but the combination of a great landscape and kind people close the deal. The Ortler delivers at every level, providing everything we want from a big European ski tour.

Endless ski terrain in the Ortler Group and Dolomites

Michael Silitch on the summit of Punta San Matteo

Amy Rasic in the Ortler Group

Michael Silitch skiing beneath the Gran Zebru

Ski touring beneath seracs

Michael Silitch beneath a serac

The Pizzini Hut at night

The author having had his fill

Interested in skiing the Ortler Tour? It is a serious undertaking given the nature of the terrain. Glacial hazards, navigation and the logistics make it a complicated tour. If you are not fully comfortable in this sort of terrain, or new to European ski touring logistics, a UIAGM Mountain Guide is highly recommended. A few of our good friends are:

Michael Silitch at High-Alpine Mountain Guides

Mark Houston & Kathy Cosley at Cosley Houston

Alberto de Giuli