Climbing Grossglockner’s Stüdlgrat

Alberto De Giuli climbing the Grossglockner’s Stüdlgrat

Austria’s tallest, the Grossglockner is home to one of the best moderate ridge climbs I have done anywhere. The Stüdlgrat.Austria’s Highest Peak is also a Classic.

At 3798 meters, the Grossglockner towers over the surrounding peaks in the Hohe Tauern Group of the Eastern Alps. Flanked with massive, crevasse and serac covered glaciers, the mountain looks more like something you would see in the Swiss Alps. But it’s home is in Austria and it rises mightily above green valley floors and quiet villages.

The approach begins in Lucknerhaus (1920 meters) on the south side of the mountain. From there a trail heads north and straight for the Grossglockner. Once above the Lucknerhütte (2241 meters) the trail begins to climb steadily. Follow signs for the Stüdlhütte (2802 meters). This is a fantastic hut with undoubtedly the friendliest staff we have ever run across. Not only are they fun and friendly, they have a fresh salad and soup buffet along with a breakfast unmatched in any alpine hut. Wake up is at 5 a.m .in the summer, 6 a.m. for the fall when there are less crowds climbing the routes.

The route as seen from the morning approach on the glacier

Where to go in the morning is obvious, up the rock ridgeline right behind the hut. For the normal route, climbers will veer off right towards the glacier and the Erzh.- Joh. Hütte. Once on top of the ridge get on the glacier and traverse left around a low highpoint on the Grossglockner’s Stüdlgrat proper, you are aiming for the base where it truly terminates in the glacier. This section of the glacier is crevassed and roping up is advised.

Alberto De Giuli climbing the Grossglockner's Stüdlgrat

Once on the ridge, it becomes immediately apparent why it is a classic. The rock is perfect, almost nothing is loose, the setting is stunning and the route is long, interesting and varied. And, it is well equipped with fat new bolts. Where it gets steep, and it does, there are two sections with fixed cables ala Via Ferrate. Using them is optional. There is little need for a topo as the route stays almost directly on the ridgeline, if you get lost, you probably don’t belong. Follow crampon marks on the clean stone. While the route is not exceptionally difficult, it is serious as both sides of the ridge plummet to the glaciers below. The grade for the route is Alpine AD with rock at III/IV. It is a rock climb of the most classic Alp nature.

Alberto De Giuli and Janine Patitucci

Alberto De Giuli and Janine Patitucci

The route does not end on the summit, for the descent of the normal route leaves some business to attend to. The down climb is also rather steep and exposed on south facing rock. While well equipped, the descent is often a traffic jam of climbers and descenders. Once off the ridge you’ll pass the Erzh.-Joh. Hütte at 3454 meters before the long, low angle ridge descent to the glacier far below. This section of ridge is protected as a Via Ferrata.

Overall, the experience of climbing the  Grossglockner’s Stüdlgrat was one of perfection. We did it on 22 September, 2009 on a perfect fall day. There were only about 25 others on the mountain and we had views to our home range of the Dolomites. We did the route with our friend and alpine guide Alberto De Giuli.

Additional info for the route may be found on SummitPost and we found it very accurate.

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Interested in doing this route and seeking an English speaking Mountain Guide? Contact Alberto De Giuli